A Month of Roses: Week 1

First seven days of not only a specific theme but predefined set of perfumes. Surprisingly, it was much easier to do than I thought: I didn’t have to think about what I would wear the next day – it was already on the calendar.

I publish this post to sum up my impressions from the first seven perfumes and to remind you that for each comment, in which you tell us what rose perfume you wore that day (or any of the days before), you are getting one entry into the draw for two bars of chocolate from a local artisan brand (my choice) – milk, dark or mix (winner’s choice) sent anywhere in the world.

Just remember: one comment – one entry, even if you tell in it about multiple perfumes worn on different days. At the same time, two comments about the same perfume posted on two different days will give you two entries. What’s the catch? You’ve probably noticed that, other than standard WordPress’ ads, there are no ads or affiliated links on this blog, so I’m not trying to get any hits or clicks from my readers; I just enjoy your company and want you to come back more often – even if I do not publish a new post.

Red Roses

February 1: Neela Vermeire Creations Mohur Esprit de Parfum (Bertrand Duchaufour)

I know that it’s called officially Mohur Extrait now. But the sample I was wearing was from the period when it still had the old name that hadn’t become official. From the first trio of perfumes, Mohur was my least favorite: I didn’t dislike it but I didn’t feel I’d want to wear it. Mohur Extrait feels different than just a higher concentration of the EdP version: it’s deeper and smoother. And agarwood doesn’t jump out on me as it happened before with Mohur EdP. Just in case you’ve missed it somehow: Mohur Extrait is a limited edition, and I’m not sure if those gorgeous bottles will be available again once they are sold out.

February 2: Guerlain Rose Barbare (Francis Kurkdjian)

While I enjoy wearing this perfume from time to time, the small decant that I have is probably all I need. It is pleasant; it fits its Guerlain collection well; but, in my opinion, Rose Barbare is neither “barbare” (whichever English equivalent you choose) nor that much “rose.” I am not trying to say that there’s no rose in that perfume but smelling it blind, I would have never thought about it as a rose-centric perfume. But still, it’s a nice perfume to wear.

February 3: Serge Lutens La Fille de Berlin (Christopher Sheldrake)

I think it is a beautiful perfume. It was the second time I’ve ever worn it properly, and I will not be doing it again: I have ideological grievances against it. I decided to wear it on that day because it served two purposes: while it was a beautiful rose perfume that fitted this Month of Roses project, I used it as an anti-lemming perfume in NST’s community project. I do not feel bad if you choose not to read [into] this perfume pedigree or think of Marlene Dietrich while wearing La Fille de Berlin, but for me this is where our relationship with this perfume ends.

February 4: Amouage Lyric (Daniel Maurel)

According to the calendar, I was supposed to wear Tauer Perfumes PHI – une rose de Kandahar. I didn’t realize that my sample was empty: probably, it’s time to buy a travel spray. And since it was a weekend, and we were invited to the friends’ house for dinner, I wanted to wear something special, not just a quickly found replacement out of all the perfumes that didn’t make it to the calendar in the first place. So I moved Lyric to the earlier date hoping to find a replacement for it later.

A couple of Valentine’s Days ago I paired Lyric with one of the stories from my childhood (Ax +By = A Genetic Mystery).

This is one of classic Amouage perfumes that is worth trying even if one doesn’t like rose or Amouage perfumes: it doesn’t work for everybody, it shouldn’t (and can’t) work for everybody but it is a great illustration for opulence in perfumery. I happen to love Lyric, and I feel joy every time I wear it. I wonder though, whether I actually smell this rose as a dark one or is it a power of suggestion from the packaging?

Deep Red Rose

February 5: By Kilian Rose Oud (Calice Becker)

Agarwood and I are not really friends. There is a handful of perfumes with this note that work for my skin (or at least for my nose when I smell them on my vSO) but most of them I rather dislike. Rose Oud is one of a few that are not bad, which brings me to the conclusion that it’s not real agarwood that makes up for this perfume’s price. No, I haven’t suddenly developed better olfaction abilities. But I remember that every time I thought I liked perfumes with agarwood, those were perfumes based on the “oud accord” (if any at all). I won’t probably go beyond the sample I have but I liked wearing it for the project.

February 6: Sonoma Scent Studio Velvet Rose (Laurie Erickson)

As with all Laurie’s perfumes, there is no doubt that it is a real rose you smell. More is going on in this perfume, but rose is at center stage from the big opening until the last curtain call, if I were to stretch that theater metaphor. Velvet Rose is very Sonoma Scent Studio perfume so if you like their floral perfumes, this one should work well for you. My bottle of this perfume is slowly nearing the end (so, 3-4 more years, and it’ll be done) – ask me then if I’m replenishing it.

February 7: Tauer Perfumes Une Rose Vermeille (Andy Tauer)

As I wrote in the post In the Search for the Perfect Berry: Raspberry, I cannot say that I love Une Rose Vermeille but I like it very much. It is fruity-floral perfume that is done the way this genre of perfumes should be done. It is a very strong and unapologetic lemony rose with the added raspberry sweetness. But unless you’re a [serial] monogamist when it comes to perfumes, do not go for anything more than 15 ml travel spray of this perfume: it is so potent that even that amount will serve you a decade.

Rusty and Une Rose Vermeire

I will be back in a week with a write-up on the next seven perfumes on my calendar. I hope you like rose perfumes (and chocolate).

 

Images: my own

Laughs, Lemmings, Loves – Episode 37

 

We’re slowly getting towards real autumn: it’s cooler though still warm; I get home when it’s dark already and there are dozens of birds in the pond I see from my office window.

I haven’t finished reading all articles on my reading list since I’m extremely busy at work now but since there were many articles that created perfumed lemmings, made me laugh or reviewed perfumes that I love I decided to post the episode.

Laughs, Lemmings, Loves - 37

Lemmings

Victoria (Bois de Jasmin): Epice Marine is in equal part a tribute to Brittany and to Roellinger’s spices. It’s a bright, juicy citrus wrapped around a piece of driftwood, an interplay between sparkling, fresh notes and smoky, toasty ones.

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Tara (Olfactoria’s Travels) makes all three perfumes in her post sound interesting but I’m attracted the most by one of them: The opening of Iris Prima is a pleasant coupling of raspy iris and happy-go-lucky bergamot, followed by a dusting of powder and clean jasmine.

 

Laughs

Ari (Scents of Self): Apparently the Greek goddess Aphrodite wanted to destroy everything that might possibly compete with her beauty, so she razed every flower on Cyprus. (It only sounds bad until you remember all the weird shit Zeus used to do.)

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Sigrun (Riktig Parfym): Naiviris smells like tearing up an IKEA package, containing wooden furniture, and the thing I’m laughing about is: well, here I am, I’ve got lot loads of perfume decants, bottles and samples of all typos, and what do I actually smell like? An IKEA Malm dresser, complete with factory dust and the cardboard package it came in! (and, in case it’s not clear from the quote, it’s a positive review)

 

Loves

Suzanne (Eiderdown Press): Prada Infusion d’Iris Absolue, as its name implies, is an iris soliflore—a modern and uncluttered perfume that starts off fresh, with some cologne-like neroli and orange blossom that impart subtle sweetness to the cool, mineral and root-like smell of iris in its early stage of development. I think most of you have read my Infusion d’Iris (original) love story but if you didn’t – here you go: Alien wears Prada Infusion d’Iris

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Portia (Australian Perfume Junkies): Bois des Iles will forever remind me of Paris, Jin and my journey there earlier in 2013, our friends Aaran & Gerard hosted us while we were there and in their home was a beautiful stained glass double door panel by a very famous glass artist, sadly he sold it recently, and the wonderful art deco/industrial piece is what I was most astonished by in his home while wearing Bois des Iles.

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The Perfumed Dandy (The Perfumed Dandy): Cuir de Russie, even in its current, tamed, “dressage” form is an epic among the cuir class of scents.
Smoky, spicy, dirty, animal, burnt, hurt, floral, haunting.

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When was the last time you read a classical fairy tale? I can’t really remember. Susie (Epiphany) has created a great illustration for the genre to go together with her review for Rubj by Vero.Profumo.

 

Leftovers

Laurie (Perfume in Progress), a nose behind Sonoma Scent Studio brand, has published a great post Learning Perfumery: Classes and Schools. If you’ve ever thought about becoming a perfumer but didn’t know where to start looking for the information on where to start, this is a good article to read or bookmark for future reference.

Laughs, Lemmings, Loves – Episode 36

 

It was long time since I had Internet connection that bad so it’s a miracle I was able to both read those posts that made me laugh, brought up some lemmings or reviewed perfumes I love and make this post. But I was persistent. By the end of the week I’ll be back to civilization and will tell you more about my time without a high-speed Internet.

Bad Internet Connection

Lemmings

Juraj (BL’eauOG) makes a new perfume Monsieur by Huitieme Art Parfums sound like something I might like: It’s a gentle perfume that opens with the dry woody notes and prickling patchouly. It has the “boozy” atmosphere like from some alcohol. Vetiver, cedar and patchouly are most dominant in the beginning but later on, it transforms into the warm and gentle scents of sandalwood, papyrus and oakmoss. After the dry, woody start, it has the feeling of a small river through the wood.

 

Laughs

I wasn’t sure where to put Natalie’s (Another Perfume Blog) review of my favorite Black Vetiver Café by Jo Malone. If you haven’t read it, spend a minute (it’s a very short one) – it’ll give you a smile if not laugh. (UPD: APB is closed)

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Simone (+ Q Perfume Blog) published a funny and light hearted post on perfumes for dogs: I wonder if Marc Jacobs would also sue Harris if he made his dog version of DOT…it would be cool to see a Dalmatian advertising the doggy version DOT!

 

Loves

Sigrun (Riktig Parfym) reviews Angélique Noire by Guerlain. It’s not her cup of tea but you might be interested to read her take on it – weather both if you know and like this perfume or have never tried it: After about half an hour most of the initial pear and citrus has morphed into a huge honey note, all thick, sweet and drizzled over a massive custard-y vanilla base. As my father in law is a beekeeper, I’m thinking they really should do a vanilla spiked honey. Just imagining it over yogurt makes me all happy dreamy. My decant, which I enjoy immensely, came from Kafka who, even though acknowledging this perfume’s quality, just couldn’t stand it.

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The Perfumed Dandy (The Perfumed Dandy) reviews Bottega Veneta by Bottega Veneta: An irresistibly, undeniably pretty perfume just on the cusp of being truly beautiful.
One can imagine Audrey Hepburn wearing it between breaking through as “Gigi” on Broadway and Hollywood stardom dressed by Hubert de Givenchy.

 

Laughs, Lemmings, Loves – Episode 35

 

Summer is over: yesterday we had our first rain. It was great! Everything got washed and watered. My lemmings started waking up after summer hibernation. So I decided to resume my weekly round-up posts. How are your lemmings doing this Fall?

For new readers: in this series I feature posts that made me smile, conjured some perfume lemmings or reviewed perfumes that I love.

Lemmings Laughs Loves

Lemmings

Steven (The Scented Hound) has just created a 4.5 star bones rated lemming: Sideris is a fragrance that I feel like I just can’t give enough justice to… It’s all too beautiful and sometimes words are just too hard to convey.

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Lanier (scents memory) tells the story that makes you want to try Vesper by MIKMOI. I don’t want to quote any part: just start reading it and see if it captures you the same way it captured me.

 

Laughs

Not a perfume-related but a smile-worth story from Vanessa (Bonkers about Perfume): Milk for tea was an alien concept. Tea itself was an alien concept.  I spent one night on a camp bed in his living room, having declined his invitation to ‘walk a portion of the way’ with him, which I took to be code for a cosier sleeping arrangement.

 

Loves

Parfumista (Parfumistans blog) compares two versions of the perfume that I like (especially in the extrait concentration): I find the Mohur Extrait deeper and darker than the Mohur Edp. […] The Extrait gives me the image of heavy silk velvet in the color of dark purple with golden stiches and loads of roses in the same color, all surrounded by a smooth almost creamy saffron and other delicate spiced stored in smooth leather pouches.

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Katherine (Mad Perfumista) writes about three first perfumes from Neela Vermeire Creations: If Mohur is a solemn tribute to one of the most powerful women in Indian history, and if Trayee is a homage to the spiritual doors opened by Vedic religion and philosophy, Bombay Bling! is a stiletto-heeled, Kelly-bag toting, Gucci-clad member of India’s new fast-living middle class, living high on the economic boom of contemporary times. Have I mentioned before my take on these three perfumes? I have? Well, maybe for the new readers, one more time: here

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Mario (guest writer at The Perfume Chronicles) reviews one of my favorite Serge Lutens‘ perfumes – Ambre Sultan.

 

Leftovers

Tauer Perfumes did something we repeat saying perfume companies should do: they released Explorer Set – three 15 ml bottles of your choice, shipping included in the price. Until September 24th they offer 10% off. Nine perfumes from the line are currently offered. I want one or two – and even those I’d hate not taking advantage of the discount I just can’t find the third one. But I love the idea! Go Andy!

Laughs, Lemmings, Loves – Episode 34

 

Either I was too busy to laugh this week or everybody on my reading list was extremely serious. But I still got some lemmings and several writers did a wonderful job reviewing my favorite perfumes.

Or maybe it’s because of the Memorial Day long weekend? My weekend was productive: I almost finished everything I planned to do; spent some money to support the economy and time with friends – just to have fun. Did you do anything interesting?

Lemmings No Laughs

Lemmings

It’s not a true lemming for me since I tried this perfume already but since after reading Suzanne’s (Eiderdown Press) story about memories conjured by April Aromatics Bohemian Spice I felt an urge to test it more I thought I’d share this one with you.

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This one is kind of lemming… By Kilian Musk Oud announced on NST. Two perfumes from the Arabian Nights collection that I tried on skin – Rose Oud and Amber Oud – I liked despite my general uneasy relationship with agarwood. So I want to try this new one – and I probably should finally get to try Insense Oud – though I almost hope not to like any of these two: it’s enough I’m thinking about buying Amber Oud, I don’t need another real lemming at that price point.

 

Loves

I keep repeating everywhere how much I love Neela Vermeire CreationsBombay Bling! I know that most of you have tried it already and read many reviews of it. But you should still read Lanier’s (scents memory) take on it: it’s definitely more than just a review and I think you’ll enjoy the story even if you know the perfume really well.

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Steven (The Scented Hound) gives his highest approval (5 out of 5 possible bones) to a vintage Samsara by Guerlain. I’ve tried only modern version (see my post Déjà vu, Episode 3: powdery fruit vs. peony oriental vs. sandalwood jasmine) but I still like this perfume and wear it from time to time.

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There must be something in the air: two bloggers wrote about one of my favorite Le Labo perfumes – Rose 31. Kafka (Kafkaesque): The kingdom of Pepper was sometimes affectionately called by its old, Norse name: Pepper & Pink. It wasn’t a vast land, but every square inch seemed to be populated by various forms of pepper. From the biting burst of freshly ground Malabar nuggets to the cedar trees which swathed its flanks from North to South and the great lakes of ISO E Super which dotted the landscape. and Jordan (The Fragrant Man): In Iran, Iraq, The Middle East, Pakistan and India rose perfumes are an essential part of a man’s fragrance wardrobe. Rose petals used to be crushed and mixed with oil to obtain a strong perfume which was labour intensive and therefore not easily mass-produced. Harun al-Rashid …

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If you haven’t read it yet, take a look: Kafka wrote a beautiful-beautiful-beautiful review for my all-time favorite perfume Amouage Ubar. Have you ever seen an Arabian horse running? It’s an object of awe and grandeur, from its tiny, delicately chiseled head with those vividly intelligent eyes, to its hugely curved, muscular neck, its perfect, lithe body, and its perpetual grace that puts all prima ballerinas to shame.

Laughs, Lemmings, Loves – Episode 33

 

The hot weather we had in the beginning of May slightly cooled off, it is now a very pleasant period when very warm days turn into slightly chilly nights.

I’m extremely busy – both at work and in my everyday life but since I came across some posts that fell into one of the categories I try to cover I decided not to skip this week. So here are posts that made me want to try a new for me perfume, made me laugh or reviewed perfumes I love.

Lemmings, Laughs, Loves

Lemmings

If you were to read just one story from my weekly round-up read Christos’s (Memory of Scent) post on the story of the perfume about which I haven’t heard before but towards which I feel warm now after getting to know it through Christos’s words.

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I didn’t think of testing this new L’Artisan‘s perfume because I disapprove mass marketization trend of their advertising (a naked model for the Caligna ad) but Lanier (scents memory) told the story in such a way that it made me want to try the perfume: Caligna to my nose is light and soft on my skin and the notes blended into a pure tingling effervescent pop of spring. Lovely and bright, luminous in fact, Caligna is really the perfect uni-sex perfume for springtime or even in the cold months to recall the joys of May in bloom in the south of France.

 

Laughs

Do you want to know a secret of immortality and look at a peach from a different prospective? Read Judith’s (the unseen censer) The story of sex and a peach  (but I warn you: a peach might never look the same to you).

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Blacknall (aperfumeblog by Blacknall Allen): Interlude Woman was sleeker and smaller (thank heavens), but still overpowered, still with that insane acceleration rate. Driving it was a revelation in centrifically challenging accelerations, hair pin curves, and how fast the crew could get you back on track (thirty seconds). I came away with a vague memory of iced tea and burning rubber, and that is all that I remember about that test run.

 

Loves

Kafka (Kafkaesque) reviews one of my favorite Serge Lutens‘ perfumes: De Profundis opens on my skin with a fragile, haunting and delicate bouquet of flowers. There is chrysanthemum with violets, green notes, white lilies and sweet, wet earth. I will tell you my Profundis story soon. I hope.

 

If you read any interesting posts that, in your opinion, didn’t get enough attention – please share.

Laughs, Lemmings, Loves – Episode 32

 

With temperatures rising into high seventies and absolutely no rain it would have been hard to believe it was still spring if it hadn’t been for nature presenting an undoubted proof of it in form of all kinds of youngsters: only in the past several days I saw a couple of leverets in the bushes surrounding my office and goslings on the picture below became a usual sight from my office window.

I’m not sure if I should attribute it to the birds-do-it attitude but my lemmings recently started thronging again. Laughs and Loves are keeping them company.

Lemmings

Lemmings

I have this perfume and like it but if you need an extra lemming or two, you just have to read Sandra’s (Olfactorial’s Travels) review:  Stilettos on Lex smells just as good if not better than the image it conjures. It starts off with quite a bit of pear and plum on me and stays there for some time. I love it and keep burying my nose into my wrist wishing I could pull off the Blahniks with such ease and comfort.

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Do you know about Rouge Bunny Rouge brand? I’ve never seen any of their products in real life but read some posts on beauty blogs. Did I care about their perfumes? Not really, though I remember reading somewhere about their release. And then I read Sigrun’s (Riktig Parfym) review (I’m not giving out the best part of it – read all three mini-stories there): I especially remember one summer, all I got was lots and lots of parsley. I had no idea what to use the  parsley for but I went experimental, tried substituting it for spinach in soups or in crepes or just chopping it up and throw it into any dish imaginable. We became friends, parsley and I, and now I plant it every year and wouldn’t want to be without it.

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Tarleisio (The Alembicated Genie) keeps fattening this lemming (as if it needed any more nurturing!): No matter what quotidian, mundane life you lead and decisions you make, some days and some moments, you want to feel invincible, imperious, regal.
Wear Tsarina. Remember – for a moment, for an evening, for yourself, for posterity, for celebrating your own unique and unexpected majesty

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When I first saw the picture of those two new Hermes colognes’ bottles I knew I’d want to try them (and secretly hoped to like them) but Victoria’s (Bois de Jasmin) four stars review doesn’t make my waiting for Eau de Narcisse Bleu and Eau de Mandarine Ambree any easier.

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Suzanne (Eiderdown Press)with her review for Ramon Monegal‘s Cherry Musk managed to create lemmings even not for the perfume (I have a sample and currently testing it) but for the movie with which she had a parallel in her head for that perfume: That kind of flowering is rare—perhaps it only happens in films—but it is a beautiful thing to contemplate at a time of grief.

 

Laughs

Every time Kafka (Kafkaesque) does her parody trial I can’t help but smile. If you haven’t seen it yet, try: [The Bailiff]: “All rise! The Court is now in session, The Honorable Charles Highblossom presiding. On the docket, The People v. Xerjoff Zafar, Case # 13-276891XZ. The charge is olfactory assault and battery. State your name and business before the Court.”
[A small, goat-like, balding man rises]: “I am the District Attorney, Luke Sneering.”

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One more thing that made me smile wasn’t completely perfume-related but since it had some connection to my blog I decided to share it with you. Last week I got an e-mail from our office assistant – a very nice young man and an artist in spare from working for our company time:

I ran across this artist in a magazine (American Craft) at the library and it made me think you.
Check it out

I opened the link, read the caption… and laughed. He and I had recently discussed some glass work (jewelry, etc.) and he knows about my blog since he’s the one who brings in all the fragrant packages I get, sometimes addressed to Undina. In his early twenties, I’m sure he didn’t read much into the sculpture description. So I decided not to do it either. But I was curious enough to find a post by a woman who took a part in that project:

Everyone should step outside of their CZ [comfort zone] at least once a week.
It grows you.

Tim Tate Mermaids Past Their Prime

 

Loves

Lorraine (Dear Scent Diary) reviews a perfume that I like wearing – Vetiver Oriental by Serge Lutens: … as it drys down, the gourmand sweetness pulls the rooty greenness into what I would consider feminine territory. It’s not for girls though. Women only.

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Kafka (Kafkaesque) reviews a perfume for which I do not own a full bottle yet only because I can’t decide what to buy first – an EdC or a parfum (and because I still have a partial decant generously gifted to me by Birgit): Sophisticated luxury under the most polite and elegant of veneers.[…] That is essence of Bois des Iles, a spectacular Chanel fragrance with a very feline heart that makes me just close my eyes in the deepest of admiration. Even if you’re not interested in the review at this time, go and take a look at pictures – those big cats!

 

Images: goslings – my own; mermaids – from Tim Tate’s site.