Saturday Question: What Is Your Favorite Vanilla Perfume?

One of the YouTube creators recently did a short video on the scent that, according to researchers, people consider the most pleasant. Of course, even before they ran a mini-poll asking to choose from the 4 quite ubiquitous aromas, I knew the answer – that’s why I won’t even try running it here (hence the topic). But I looked up the study, and I thought that the conclusions were interesting:

  • Culture plays a minimal role in the perception of odor pleasantness.
  • Individuals within cultures vary as to which odors they find pleasant.
  • Human olfactory perception is strongly constrained by universal principles.

Odor preference rankings were collected from nine culturally and geographically diverse populations. These included the three hunter-gatherer groups, Seri from a coastal desert and Maniq and Semaq Beri from tropical rainforest, one shoreline forager, Mah Meri, from a tropical coast; one swidden-horticulturalist, Semelai, from tropical rainforest; one farmer-foraging community, Chachi, from tropical rainforest; one subsistence agriculturalist community, Imbabura Quichua, from temperate highlands; and two urban dwellers from industrial and postindustrial communities of bustling urban settings, Mexican and Thai. The data from these nine communities were then related to available data from a large dataset on odor preference collected from urban dwellers from the USA (New York City).

If you want to read through the study, here’s a link.

Saturday Question on Undina's Looking Glass

Saturday Question #166:

What Is Your Favorite Vanilla Perfume?

Similar to bergamot, rose and jasmine, vanilla is a “usual suspect” in many compositions. But this question is about perfumes where one can unmistakably pinpoint that ingredient as a main player.

Do you have many vanilla perfumes? Any? How often do you wear those?

 

My Answer

I do not love vanilla in perfumes. I do not dislike it either. Over the years, I found 5-6 vanilla-centric perfumes I like and wear. Vanilla perfumes are my rainy day perfumes. Vanilla perfumes are my sick-day-but-still-don’t-want-going-commando perfumes. And sometimes those are “just because” – but not too often.

Today I wore Le Labo Vanille 44. I’m on my second decant, which means that I like it. If it weren’t for Le Labo’s idiotic “city exclusive” gimmick, I would have probably bought a small bottle of it by now, despite the price. I’m still contemplating getting a bottle of Tauer‘s Vanilla Flash. But my #1 vanilla perfume is still Mona di Orio Vanille.

 

How about you?

What Is Your Favorite Vanilla Perfume?

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La Fumee Ottoman by Miller Harris

La Fumee Ottoman by Miller Harris

Hey there crew, I’ve spoken about taking my FragranceNet 8ml decant of La Fumee Ottoman by Miller Harris on holiday to South Korea and did a very short thought bubble on it. Wearing it yesterday I thought it really deserves its own post. I really like the Miller Harris brand. The perfumes feel well thought out, mostly very comfortable wears and the price point isn’t all the way through the roof. Their bottles are very comfortable in my hand, hefty and well balanced. Plus they give good spritz. Of course this doesn’t matter when you’ve bought an 8ml decant. Interestingly La Fumee Ottoman is celebrating a decade of production this year.

La Fumee Ottoman by Miller Harris 2013

La Fumee Ottoman Miller Harris

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Cumin Cardamom Rose Bergamot
Heart: Incense Cedar Patchouli
Base: Amber Rose Fruits Vanilla Sandalwood Tonka Bean

Straight out of the gate I’m smelling cold woody incense sticks. They are not like Christian, Indian, Korean or Japanese sticks, much darker, less reverential. It doesn’t feel like I’ve experienced in temples and churches. I love it. Really interesting. This explosive opening quickly morphs into a lovely sweaty patchouli and here I do smell hints of roses. Kind of like potpourri. Dry, dusty rose petals and I also smell anise seed pods. WOW! Every time I wear La Fumee Ottoman it takes me by surprise how beautifully tapestried the fragrance is. This heart lasts well too. Not a top heavy behemoth that collapses on itself in 40 minutes.

La Fumee Ottoman Miller Harris FragranceNet decant

As I move further into the heart the incense becomes much more like I grew up with in Roman Catholic church. That very particular joining of smoke, incense, cold building, old wooden pews and humanity. While not being a church going person anymore this smell still brings me comfort and makes me think existential thoughts. Good ones. I even offer up a little prayer of gratitude for my great good fortune in life.

After an hour or so the woods have taken centre stage. Patchouli still keeps them dark and earthy. La Fumee Ottoman has by this time quietened considerably. Still fragrant but the fireworks are now merely embers. The sweetness doesn’t arrive till much later. Dry down is a mix of woods, vanilla heavy amber and tonka. It’s melded perfectly and I’m sure there are other nuances I miss. What is important to me though is that La Fumee Ottoman stays lovely and interesting till I can’t smell it anymore.

Fully unisex, projection and sillage are above average and longevity is excellent. I would really like to wear this while wandering an art gallery with a friend. I think the cool airy spaces, beautiful and interesting art, conversation and coffee afterwards would be served well by this beautiful scent.

So, does La Fumee Ottoman read like something you could wear and love?
Portia x

Saturday Question: Do You Layer Perfumes?

I can’t believe I haven’t asked this question before – it seems so obvious. But let’s do it today.

Saturday Question on Undina's Looking Glass

Saturday Question #165:

Do You Layer Perfumes?

Often? Sometimes? Never? Intentionally of accidentally? Do you have any favorite combinations?

My Answer

Not much changed since my post Perfume Layering: Truth or Dare? from 10 years ago: I still like the idea of layering perfumes, and I still own a huge number of Jo Malone perfumes that are “layerable,” but I have so many wonderful perfumes in my collection that it feels unnatural to experiment with mixing them. But now when I’m writing about it, I feel an urge to do some combination with perfumes of JM’s Tea Collection that I have. Earl Grey & Cucumber will combine nicely with Sweet Milk. I will probably try to do it tomorrow.

How about you?

Do You Layer Perfumes?

Saturday Question: Does/Did Your Mother Wear Perfume?

It’s Mother’s Day weekend in the US, so Happy Mother’s Day to all of you who are mothers and let’s talk about our moms and perfumes.

Saturday Question on Undina's Looking Glass

Saturday Question #164:

Does/Did Your Mother Wear Perfume?

If yes, how similar or different are your tastes? Did you share any favorites at any point in your life?

My Answer

My mom was an opportunistic perfume wearer: whenever she had them (usually gifts), she would wear them, but I don’t remember her actively pursuing them. She liked having perfumes but didn’t love them enough to prioritize spending money on them.

When I was a child, she owned and wore Lancome Climat, Dior Miss Dior, Diorella and Dior Dior. There were a couple more, but I can’t remember the names. I liked (and still like) them all but Dior Dior. And before I started getting my own perfumes, I wasted enough of hers. Later, after I moved to the US, on my visits, I would bring her different perfumes – some that I knew she liked, some that I liked, and some that didn’t work for me any longer – and she wouldn’t refuse any of them. But then, she never asked for any of them again.

Tomorrow, I will wear Diorella in her memory.

Mom and Diorella

Does/Did Your Mother Wear Perfume?

Pichola by Neela Vermeire Creations

Pichola by Neela Vermeire Creations

Hi there ULGers, There’s no secret that Neela Vermeire and I are close friends. We speak regularly on the phone, catch up whenever we find ourselves in the same cities and our husbands love each other too. I’m prefacing with this because the reason we even met was because I fell madly in love with Neela Vermeire Creations back in 2012 when her first trio was released. In 2013 the four of us happened to be in Vienna together and that was our first meeting. Yes, 10 years ago. It seems to have passed in a heartbeat. We had a couple of days overlap in London while I was there, as we stay in the same club we were both sprung on a super secret visit. Both of us were there for specific reasons and we didn’t catch up with most of our friends. Apologies to all that were missed. Hopefully Jin and I will see you all in November. Anyway, Neela passed me a decant of Pichola while we were there and I’ve been wearing it. Because Rahele and Mohur get most of the spritzes around here I’d forgotten this grand beauty. So I thought maybe you’d like to revisit it with me.

Pichola by Neela Vermeire Creations

Pichola by Neela Vermeire Creations 2015

Pichola by Neela Vermeire Creations

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Neroli Clementine Magnolia Cardamom Saffron Cinnamon Bergamot Juniper
Heart: Tuberose Orange Blossom Jasmine Sambac Ylang-Ylang Rose
Base: Sandalwood Benzoin Driftwood

Yeah, it reads like a mid 80s kitchen sinker. No, Pichola may have a shit tonne of listed notes but they have all gone in to make something clear as a bell. So poised and perfect that it’s overlooked for fragrances less serene that feel more combative, strange, beastly etc etc. A radiant white floral that smells in the same family as Elie Saab, Gucci Guilty and Rush. There are more but I think Pichola does it better.

The sharp brightness of citrus and juniper matched with smooth green herbaceousnous give the white floral opening a springlike lift. it’s both refreshing and foresty. There is also a scratchy dry ache in my throat that often accompanies pepper or tea and I’m surprised at their lack of inclusion. This makes the traditional radiant white floral seem simple and unsophisticated by comparison (yes, I love them too and have well used bottles of all the above).

The heart is a mystery to me. Sure there is a lot of white flower action in the bouquet but it’s given a broad twist. My nose says vanilla but I’m wondering if it’s the ylang and sandalwood working together to give that impression. They are common tropical tropes added to give that island nights feeling and added to the benzoin may well be playing nose games with me. There is a sensuality to Pichola that is making me smile while I write this post.

Pichola by Neela Vermeire Creations Lake palace

Driftwood is such an interesting note. It could be suggestion but I find the sandalwood/amber/white floral base to be lightly salted. This represents seaside to me, and yes, fantasy dreams of tropical islands. Funnily, Lake Pichola that the fragrance is named for is freshwater. If you ever get the chance to stay in Udaipur Rajasthan do go spend a couple of nights in the Lake Palace Hotel. It’s fabulous. Then spend another two nights staying in a hotel on the outside of the lake so you can enjoy the view of the Lake Palace Hotel as well. The above advertising picture represents the smooth bright golden feeling that Pichola has for me so well.

Did you, or do you, wear Pichola?
Portia x

Saturday Question: What Is Your Favorite Rainy Day Perfume?

Whether you like rain or can’t stand it, welcome the next shower or are sick and tired of it, you will experience it sooner or later. Are you ready?

Saturday Question on Undina's Looking Glass

Saturday Question #163:

What Is Your Favorite Rainy Day Perfume?

Do you have one? Are there different perfumes for different seasons? Do you like rain?

My Answer

I’m sure that growing up I was not too fond of rain. In the area where I lived, we had maybe 4 months when it wasn’t cold, windy, snowy or otherwise unpleasant. So, if the unpleasant weather was supplemented with rain, it didn’t make it any less miserable. And if the rain would come during those long-awaited short better months, it would spoil a day or two at a time.

I don’t remember when it changed. But after leaving through a couple of droughts in California, I love rain. And this year was fantastic! We had so much rain, and I enjoyed every grey and wet day of it. I don’t have a special perfume for a rainy day. But I wore Tauer Perfumes Vanilla Flash for the last two rains (including today), and it felt just perfect. I think our rains are almost over until October. But maybe I should buy a bottle and hope for the next rainy season.

How about you?

What Is Your Favorite Rainy Day Perfume?

Saturday Question: What Was The Last Perfume You Finished?

Many of us have extensive perfume collections, so each perfume gets just a fraction of wear time. So, I understand that it’s a tough question.

Saturday Question on Undina's Looking Glass

Saturday Question #162:

What Was The Last Perfume You Finished?

It doesn’t have to be a bottle; a decant will do as well. Will you repurchase it?

My Answer

It has been a long-long time since I finished anything! I have a couple of bottles that are close to the end (I have backups for them), but I can’t even remember the last bottle I emptied.

But today, I sprayed the last 4-5 sprays from the decant of Guerlain Cuir Beluga. Every time I remembered to wear it, I thought it was great. Cuir Beluga is one of the perfumes that I should have bought years ago. Now? I don’t know. Once my “no-buy” is over, I’ll check the latest reformulation and decide.

 

How about you?

What Was The Last Perfume You Finished?

Un Jardin a Cythere by Hermes

Hey Crew, I know it should be Un Jardin à Cythère byHermès but and not using the diacritical marks through the piece. Soz. So it will be Un Jardin a Cythere by Hermes from hereon in. It means garden of Kythira. A Greek island, part of the Ionian group. Just so you know, the only Greek island I’ve been to is Zakinthos and it was years ago with a group of mates. It should have been a honeymoon but my friend backed out of the wedding a week before. Still we had the best time celebrating his anti-honeymoon.

Un Jardin a Cythere by Hermes

Un Jardin a Cythere by Hermes

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Pistachio, Citruses, Olive Tree, Green Accord

Yay! Christine Nagel has signed off on another in the jardin range. Colour me happy. This was the first time I’ve seen it in store to test and the SA was really knowledgable and helpful. Also, I’d met a perfumista girlfriend in town for lunch and she was so impressed we went up and  got her spritzed as well.

The opening is all the citruses but grapefruit becomes the focus after a few minutes. It’s lip puckeringly refreshing and lasts into the nuttiness. I was really skeptical when she said I was going to smell pistachios but it is quite the scent memory. Not exactly but all the pertinent triggers and I loved how it rose out of the bed of citrus. My friend also smelled anise and I got the merest whiff of it but that may have been suggestion working its magic.

Un Jardin a Cythere by Hermes blotter

I’m now about three hours in and the nuts have receded somewhat, the citrus is now a soft pithy cloud and my nose is saying vegetal musks. Un Jardin a Cythere is still noticeable but not heavily fragrant.

If you have liked any of the garden range then this is worth a sniff. If you dislike them it won’t change your mind. A very nicely produced and wearable fragrance that won’t overpower or distract. Low key loveliness. I am imagining a 30ml in the collection already.

The blotter still smells just spritzed hours and hours later though. Interesting. I’m wondering if having it on a scarf might prolong the opening?

Are you a fan of the jardin range?
Portia xx

 

Saturday Question: Who Is Your Favorite Perfumer?

One of the answers to the question about being a perfumista from a couple of weeks ago was “I know what a ‘nose’ is and have several favourite noses,” which, in my opinion, is one of the significant indicators of someone being “into” perfumes. I still can remember the time when I didn’t even think that there was anything else to my favorite perfumes beyond a brand name.

Saturday Question on Undina's Looking Glass

Saturday Question #161:

Who Is Your Favorite Perfumer?

Do you have a favorite perfumer? How do you define this? Do you follow that perfumer’s work?

My Answer

I’ve never been good with names. Writers were probably the extent of my ability to remember names. I could go through several book chapters without remembering characters’ names but just visually recognizing a combination of graphemes. Actors, singers, politicians, etc., have to be very significant for me to remember their names, not even actively to say it but even as a passive recollection when someone else refers to them. So, while I appreciate the work perfumers do creating perfumes I love and wear, and I even add this information to the perfume’s description in my database, I rarely remember who was the nose for those perfumes I wear – unless they are brands’ creators. So, when I asked today’s question, I wasn’t sure what  my answer would be.

I know and recognize many names. But without checking the database, I wouldn’t have been able to choose the one. After running some queries, I now know that not only did I try the highest number of perfumes created by Bertrand Duchaufour, but also, out of those I tried, I liked more perfumes created by him than by any other perfumer. It probably means that Bertrand Duchaufour is my favorite perfumer. Though the last new fragrance from him I tried was Corpus Equus for Naomi Goodsir (2021). I checked Fragrantica, and it looks like these days he creates perfumes for brands I haven’t heard about before, which makes me less interested in these new creations.

 

How about you?

Who Is Your Favorite Perfumer?

Saturday Question: What Is Ideal Perfume Tenacity For You?

When several years ago hajusuuri asked if longevity mattered, most of the respondents answered negatively. Many of you mentioned that it would not stop you from loving or buying perfume. But what if you could choose?

Saturday Question on Undina's Looking Glass

Saturday Question #160:

What Is Ideal Perfume Tenacity For You?

How long do you want your perfumes to last with the initial application?

My Answer

I didn’t remember that previous question (and it’s not surprising since it wasn’t mine). I came up with today’s SQ one morning recently when I woke up and thought that I liked that I could still smell the perfume I wore to a party the night before. And later, when I checked the list of questions we’ve done (as I always do), found that one and read through the discussion, I discovered that I gave the same answer back then.

I rarely wear perfume to bed intentionally. But when I wear perfume that stays on my skin and hair through the night, it makes me happy. Though, I’m glad that I have in my collection some perfumes that I can wear for 3-4 hours – and then replace with something else. Or reapply – if I feel like doing so.

How about you?

What Is Ideal Perfume Tenacity For You?