Saturday Question: What Are the Longest-Lasting Perfumes In Your Collection?

Over the years, we discussed whether the longevity maters and our ideal perfume tenacity. Some perfumes seem to disappear almost before we finish applying them, while others stay with us all day and sometimes well into the next one. Whether you enjoy that kind of persistence or find it occasionally overwhelming, most of us probably have at least a few perfumes in our collections whose staying power stands out from the rest.

 

Saturday Question on Undina's Looking Glass

 

Saturday Question #298:

What Are the Longest-Lasting Perfumes In Your Collection?

For those specific perfumes, do you consider it a benefit or something you tolerate?

My Answer

As with most of my recent questions, this one came to me as I was experiencing the topic. I woke up the next morning after a Mother’s Day celebration and realized that I could still smell Amouage Gold, which I had applied around 2 PM the previous day. And it was still wonderful.

I think most of my favorite Amouage perfumes easily last overnight on my skin and at least several days on a pillowcase. I always enjoy them and don’t remember ever getting that “the perfume wears you” feeling that I sometimes get even from less tenacious perfumes hours into wearing them.

 

How about you?

 

What Are the Longest-Lasting Perfumes In Your Collection?

Saturday Question: Which Perfume Names Refuse to Stay in Your Memory?

With the largish collections many of us have, it happens sometimes that we forget we have a perfume (especially if it’s in a decant or sample format). It would be strange to ask you about those. With perfumes from different countries, named in different languages, we might not know the exact pronunciation of some names. Not asking about those either. Do you have perfumes in your collection that you remember owning but can never remember their exact names?

 

Saturday Question on Undina's Looking Glass

 

Saturday Question #297:

Which Perfume Names Refuse to Stay in Your Memory?

What do you do about it? Do you have nicknames for those? Do you use partial names? Do you approximately envision the form of the name on the label?

My Answer

There are three perfumes in my collection that I can never remember – and I love them and have full bottles of each!

Mona di Orio Les Nombres d’Or Vanille – all I can remember is “Vanille,” so for my daily records in the database, I had to “rearrange” the name to Vanille Les Nombres d’Or (so that it would appear in the type-ahead field when I enter the only part that I remember).

Houbigant Quelques Fleurs Royale – that “Quelques”… Too many vowels. I checked the pronunciation, and still I can’t remember the name when I think about that perfume, even though the last two words don’t confuse me at all.

Serge Lutens La Dompteuse Encagée – even though this was one of the latest additions to my collection, the name disappears from my inner eye as soon as I stop looking at the bottle or the screen. I haven’t come up with a good mnemonic for it yet.

 

How about you?

 

Which Perfume Names Refuse to Stay in Your Memory?

Sunday Question: Would You Like To Smell Like Poo[h]?

I know, I know, it’s a juvenile joke, but I couldn’t help myself. I came across an ad for Mischief Academy perfumes on Instagram and decided to discuss their names and the concept with you.

 

Saturday Question on Undina's Looking Glass

 

Sunday Question #296:

Would You Like To Smell Like Poo[h]?

Perfumers Anh Ngo, Luis Hou and George Tedder created perfumes for “The Fairy Tales” collection:

  • Winnie the Pooh (Honey, Beeswax, Bergamot, Lemon, Lavender, Clary Sage, Vanilla, Tonka Bean),
  • The Little Mermaid (Pink Champagne, Lilac, Sea Salt, Ocean, Lemon Zest, Seaweed),
  • The Mad Hatter (Cognac, Rum, Toffee, Condensed Milk, Butter, Leather, Black Tea, Saffron),
  • The Cursed Apple (Red Apple, Poison (Bitter Accord), Rose, Violet, Lipstick, Wild Berries),
  • Hansel & Gretel (Gingerbread Cookies, Hot Chocolate, Rum, Cinnamon, Clove, Tonka Bean, Vanilla),
  • Pinocchio (Palo Santo, Sandalwood, Peach, Saffron, Vetiver, Cedarwood),
  • The Jungle Book (Forest Foliage, Fig Fruit, Pear, Muguet, Amber, Sandalwood, Cedarwood).

Do any of these names or notes sound interesting to you? Would you want to wear one of those (provided you liked the scent)?

My Answer

The names aside, what caught my attention was the brand behind them.

Mischief Academy, a new brand created in 2025, is one of hundreds that appear every year. It positions itself as a US-based brand (with the main address in San Francisco), but its parent company is from Vietnam. The same parent company has another perfume brand, d’Annam, which is slightly “older” (from 2023), and its portfolio holds already 25 perfumes. Two out of the three noses who created The Fairy Tales collection authored most of d’Annam’s perfumes.

d’Annam started with a Vietnamese collection, positioning itself as a Vietnamese brand. Soon after their first collection, they shifted their focus to Japan, expanding the brand’s scope to “Asian cultures.” Now we have this new brand experimenting with well-known Western fairy tales, clearly appealing to our “inner child.” For me, it feels like a pure marketing experiment without any substance, history or inspiration behind it.

But beyond all these considerations, in my opinion, perfumes for grown-ups should not be called any of those names (and perfumes for kids, even if we were to agree that something like that should exist, should not cost $120 for a 50 ml bottle). Looking back on my life, I can’t imagine any age beyond 12 years old at which I could see myself in the following dialogue:

– Mmm, you smell wonderful. What is it?
– Oh, thank you! It’s Winnie the Pooh.

 

How about you?

 

Would You Like To Smell Like Poo[h]?

Sunday Question: Do You Own Any Perfumes You Don’t Like but Won’t Let Go Of?

Sometimes our perfume collections include pieces that don’t quite work for us – not anymore, or maybe never did. And yet, for one reason or another, we keep them: for the memory they hold, the person who gave them to us, their beauty as objects, or simply because we feel we should. For this SQ, let’s consider only bottles (so, no samples or decants).

 

Saturday Question on Undina's Looking Glass

 

Sunday Question #295:

Do You Own Any Perfumes You Don’t Like but Won’t Let Go Of?

Why do you keep it/them?

My Answer

In general, once a bottle of perfume gets into my collection, I have a really hard time letting it go. I can justify to myself keeping almost any of those that I used to like or got as a present from someone. I can explain not parting with bottles that I bought for the bottle’s sake. I still hope to maybe wear someday perfumes that came as a part of a set with the one that I wanted to own. But there is one perfume I own for no rhyme or reason – Bitter Orange & Chocolate by Jo Malone.

It was a limited edition released in 2013 as part of the Sugar & Spice collection. Bitter Orange & Chocolate was the most popular one; it smelled divine on my co-worker, and one of my friends loved it and even bought a backup bottle. I love chocolate. I like oranges. Angel Taste of Fragrance flanker with a chocolate note was one of my favorites. At that time, I liked most of Jo Malone’s perfumes. And still, this one didn’t work for me. I tested it repeatedly, hoping to change my mind – and I didn’t. It was almost sold out, so I decided to buy a bottle, telling myself that either it would grow on me (I had a sample to keep trying) or I’d be able to sell it later…

All these years later, the bottle is still untouched, and I don’t have a good explanation why.

 

How about you?

 

Do You Own Any Perfumes You Don’t Like but Won’t Let Go Of?

Saturday Question: What Is Your Favorite Amouage Perfume?

My living space is almost back to normal after the flooding accident a month ago, and I’m back with a Saturday Question.

 

Saturday Question on Undina's Looking Glass

 

Saturday Question #294:

What Is Your Favorite Amouage Perfume?

Have you tried their newer collections (The Odyssey or The Essences)? What do you think about the new bottles for The Essences collection? Do you follow the brand’s new releases?

My Answer

It has been several decades since I’ve done (or even closely witnessed) any home remodeling. Now I have validation of all my fears about that and reluctance to entertain any serious work where I live. It proved to be quite disruptive, even though all the crews that worked on addressing the consequences of the unfortunate fire sprinkler incident were very fast and professional. But as I said, it’s almost over, and I started feeling more inclined to get back to less serious undertakings, such as blogging or testing perfumes.

Historically, Amouage was one of my “Top 5 Favorite Brands”, and when answering the SQ question “An Ambassador of What Brand Would You Like to be?”, I chose that brand as my #1 contender, which says a lot about how I feel about their perfumes. It also wouldn’t be hard for me to name my most favorite Amouage perfume, since Ubar (sadly discontinued) is one of my top 3 all-time favorites. But I can easily name another 5 that I enjoy wearing.

All of my Amouage “loves” belong to their Main Collection. The only two perfumes from later-released collections that I wear are Love Mimosa (The Secret Garden Collection) and Guidance (The Odyssey Collection). I don’t think I’ll ever need more of the former once my decant is gone, but I would love to add the latter to my collection eventually (even though I don’t need any more FBs).

I haven’t seen a bottle from The Essence Collection in RL yet, but I like how they look online, and I’m waiting for a couple of samples from that collection in my recent Luckyscent order, hoping both to like and not to like those perfumes, since $475 still feels like an insane price for a single bottle (especially given the size of my collection).

 

How about you?

 

What Is Your Favorite Amouage Perfume?

Saturday Question: What Perfumes Do You Reach for When Dealing With a Stressful Situation?

Stressful situations are an unavoidable part of life – whether they come from work, travel, health issues or everyday logistics. While perfume obviously can’t fix any of those problems, many of us still reach for certain scents when we want a bit of comfort, distraction or a small boost of confidence.

 

Saturday Question on Undina's Looking Glass

 

Saturday Question #293:

What Perfumes Do You Reach for When Dealing With a Stressful Situation?

Do you have some particular perfumes? Or is it a type of scents that you choose? Or does it not affect your choice?

My Answer

It’s not a theoretical question for me: because of a recent mishap with the fire sprinklers in a neighboring condo, we ended up with water damage in ours. Since that happened, I’ve been dealing with insurance adjusters, contractors and estimates, and preparing for the upcoming demolition (they constantly use that word!) of some of the walls and flooring.

None of this is dramatic in the grand scheme of things (at least yet), but it does involve a lot of phone calls, paperwork, waiting and generally feeling that things are a little out of your control. Plus, extremely loud fans running for 14+ hours per day.

So when my morning starts, I ask myself: “What do you feel like wearing?” And, surprisingly, after a couple of days, I realized that I was craving lavender. My “go-to” perfumes recently have been Serge Lutens Gris Clair, Guerlain Jicky (both EdP and extrait) and Parfums de Marly Darley – but I suspect I’ll go through more lavender-heavy perfumes before this ordeal is behind us.

 

How about you?

 

What Perfumes Do You Reach for When Dealing With a Stressful Situation?

Saturday Question: What Was The Most Unpleasant Perfume You’ve Ever Smelled?

Most of my Saturday Questions are positive, so I hesitated for a while about whether I should even ask this one. I hope that nobody will feel too hurt if a perfume they love ends up on someone’s “can’t stand it” list – after all, we are all so different in our olfactory perception.

 

Saturday Question on Undina's Looking Glass

 

Saturday Question #292:

What Was The Most Unpleasant Perfume You’ve Ever Smelled?

Was it a “hate from the first sniff”? Did you put it on your skin? Was it a scrubber, or did you endure it through the development? Did you do it more than once?

My Answer

My knee-jerk reaction answer was Oriza L. Legrand‘s Chypre Mousse. But then I remembered that I’ve previously used that perfume while answering another SQ about the spookiest perfume I’ve ever tried. So I decided to search my daily use database for more offenders. One of the standard reactions that I can select to classify what I thought about perfumes I wore or tested is “I hated it” – that was the filter I used.

Interestingly, in 15 years of recording my reactions, only 23 perfumes have ever deserved that harsh option. And it was unexpectedly hard to decide which one of them to name the worst. I decided to go with the one that I dared to put on my skin 3 times, hoping to change my mind.

Serge Lutens Miel de Bois. Many years ago, when Lutens’s perfumes were both hard to get and highly cherished by perfumistas, I got a sample in a swap. I had read such high praise for that perfume that I expected it to be magical. It wasn’t. It was quite unpleasant on my skin. I wasn’t ready to accept that, and once the memory of the off-putting encounter softened a little, I would try it again. With the same result. After the third attempt 10 years ago, I finally conceded defeat and purged the sample so that I could not even think about subjecting myself to that torture again.

 

How about you?

 

What Was The Most Unpleasant Perfume You’ve Ever Smelled?

Saturday Question: What Was the Last Mainstream Perfume You Tried?

With shelves already full of niche bottles and cherished vintages (and with the market constantly flooded by new releases that often feel more prolific than original), it’s easy to lose interest in what’s happening in mainstream perfumery… Until one day you walk through a department store, pass a duty-free counter, or receive a sample with a purchase – and you just have to try it!

 

Saturday Question on Undina's Looking Glass

 

Saturday Question #291:

What Was the Last Mainstream Perfume You Tried?

Was it something you sought out intentionally, or did you just happen to come across it? Did you like it? Would you consider wearing it?

My Answer

I received a sample of Burberry Her Elixir de Parfum with a Sephora order. I didn’t request that sample, they just sent it instead of some beauty packet I chose during the checkout. If it weren’t for that, I wouldn’t have probably even notice it in the store. But since it was already there, I tested it. Twice. I didn’t like it. It’s cloyingly sweet in the opening, plasticky-fruity, quite artificial and not particularly tenacious… though that might not be a bad thing in this case. I wouldn’t want to wear it, but as a skin scent, it becomes tolerable about 90 minutes into its development. I wouldn’t mind a shower gel with that faint residual vanilla+sandalwood combo.

How about you?

 

What Was the Last Mainstream Perfume You Tried?

Saturday Question: Are You Buying Any INeKE Perfumes Before They Are Gone Forever?

A couple of days ago, I received an email from INeKE Perfumer San Francisco with a subject “Last Call for Ineke Perfumes.” Ineke Ruhland, the owner of and the nose behind this niche brand, wrote the following:

Hello fragrant friends,

After 20 years of making perfumes, I’ve reached a new chapter in my life and will wind down my business over the next few months. As many of you know, I co-founded Ministry of Scent with Antonia Kohl in 2018. We sell niche and indie brands from around the world in our two San Francisco stores, as well as online at ministryofscent.com. This year we’ll also be opening a Perfumery Studio in San Francisco and selling raw materials to perfume makers online. We’ve been growing in leaps and bounds, and it’s more than a full-time job, so I’ll be focusing my efforts on Ministry of Scent.

She also mentioned that there were some remaining bottles of her perfumes produced in the last small batches, samples and sample packs for some of them. There is no sale going on, whatever is available can be purchased now. Some online retailers also have the remaining stock, but I’m sure it’ll disappear quickly once the brand closes.

 

Saturday Question on Undina's Looking Glass

 

Saturday Question #290:

Are You Buying Any INeKE Perfumes Before They Are Gone Forever?

Do you have any favorites from this brand? Will you miss any of them?

My Answer

When three years ago I featured the brand in my Brand Appreciation: INEKE post, I ended it saying that I was looking forward to their next letter – K. I am sad that it will never happen.

I have 3 favorite perfumes from the brand – Field Notes From Paris (its story is in the post linked above), Hothouse Flower (“H” for Hothouse Flower by Ineke) and Idyllwild (Light and Shadows: Ineke Idyllwild). I still have enough of FNFP and Hothouse Flower. My Idyllwild bottle is still 1/3 full, but if feels like not enough. I enjoy this perfume very much. Recently, before I learned the news of the brand’s closing, I wore Idyllwild and thought how great it was and how much I liked it. Besides, this perfume holds a special place in my heart because of the picture I took for the post (a shadow of Rusty “smelling” a shadow of Idyllwild).

Rusty and Ineke Idyllwild

Considering that, I wanted to get a backup bottle. It was sold out on the site, so I ordered a pack of 10 samples thinking that 15 ml in addition to what I have in my original bottle would be enough. And only after I started putting together this post, I thought of checking Ineke’s new enterprise – The Ministry Of Scent. They still have a bottle of Idyllwild. I wrote to the brand’s sales to see if I could cancel the samples order and buy a bottle instead. I hope they’ll agree, I’ll get that backup bottle.

 

How about you?

 

Are You Buying Any INeKE Perfumes Before They Are Gone Forever?

Fifteen Years Through the Looking Glass

Fifteen years. It sounds significant. Undina’s Looking Glass has been quietly alive for a decade and a half. Over that time, I’ve shared thoughts on hundreds of perfumes, collected stories, and occasionally lost myself in pages and pages of notes that never quite became posts.

Anniversaries have a way of making time feel tangible, which led me to a small thought experiment that had been on my mind lately.

Many of my long-time readers come from the same generation as I do. So, chances are, my reference to a 40-year-old movie will not be entirely unfamiliar.

I was thinking about the Back to the Future trilogy. While the films are largely about trying to repair the past after it has been unintentionally altered by time travel, the second movie introduces a particularly tempting side effect: knowledge brought from the future, precise enough to be useful and dangerous enough to change everything. That’s where my thought experiment comes in. What if I could do something similar, but on a much smaller and harmless scale – and only perfume-related, so no early tsunami warnings or other world-saving abilities involved?

Back To The Future Car

The car from the movie (I took that photo at Universal Studios park, CA in 2000)

I could have followed the movie logic and traveled 30 years back, since I’ve loved perfumes for as long as I can remember. But that would have placed me well before I went down the proverbial rabbit hole, and I’m not sure that my almost-signature-scent self would have been receptive to any perfume-related advice, let alone able to act on it.

Fifteen years, on the other hand, seems like the perfect destination. I was enthusiastic, curious, and actively absorbing “perfume wisdom.” Advice given then wouldn’t have needed translation or years of patience before I could act on it.

The first thing I would tell myself is simple: some preferences never change, and tuberose will never become “my” note. This would have saved me countless hours of testing perfumes I would inevitably dislike.

Next, I’d give some guidance on how to approach samples: There will be more perfumes I dislike than like. I shouldn’t spend money trying to test a brand’s complete range unless I can do it for free. And I must not hoard samples of perfumes I dislike just to maintain a full set. I will never change from “dislike” to “love,” and they will quietly evaporate – or worse, I’ll retest them later and waste time rediscovering that I didn’t like them.

Perfume Samples

I’d also advise myself on “special occasion” perfumes. Many of the perfumes I’ll love will be naturally bold, loud statement pieces – that can’t be changed, and shouldn’t be. But there are only so many occasions to wear them, so if I really want to enjoy them, I should designate more occasions as “special.” Weekends or work-from-home days should be perfect for this.

Finally, as an “almanac moment,” I would tell myself to buy Tom Ford Violet Blond as soon as it appeared at any discount, not to wait for the best price, and Jo Malone Lotus Blossom & Water Lily, a limited edition that would never be reissued. And also… I would have probably whispered to myself to invest in liquid gold, vanilla, and sell those positions in 2018 once the price hit $442,000 per ton… No, I shouldn’t! Even in my small, harmless experiment, changing too much (and for profit!) feels like sneezing on a butterfly wing, and who knows what ripple that might set off. What if my meddling had gotten Duchaufour fired from L’Artisan Parfumeur, and suddenly Nuit de Tubereuse never existed? Oh, wait… maybe it wouldn’t have been that bad… But no. Best not.

* * *

Since my blogoversary fell on Saturday, I decided to combine it with my regular Saturday Question. Above was “My Answer.” Now it’s your turn.

If you had the same magical channel to your past self, what year would you choose, and what advice would you give?

Just remember: that one-way membrane can pass only perfume-related information.