Entertaining Statistics: February 2014

This February we finally got some rain. But even though it was not of a kind when you say “better than nothing”, it was a good rain, it still hasn’t resolved our drought situation. But it gave us hope and I enjoyed that month even more than I would have without these long expected precipitations.

On the heels of the first guest post by hajusuuri I asked you to answer the question for this statistics post:

February 2014 Statistics

I am pleased to see that six out of forty (40) respondents (15%) are financially conservative and don’t make spontaneous purchases. Admirable!

The potential of the perfume slipping away before we can decide if we really-really want to get it proved to be the most direct way to our wallets: 10 votes/25%. Let’s promise ourselves and each other that we won’t allow any unscrupulous SA to exploit this weakness.

The second most common slippery slope toward making an unplanned perfume purchase is a “good deal” temptation. I snort every time I hear the slogan “The more you spend, the more you save” but in reality the notion of getting the best offer ever – now or never! – works for many of us. By the way, my answer was one of the 9 (23%) in this category so I wasn’t among the wisest perfumistas from the category I mentioned first.

All other options got the even spread – 5 votes (1213%). Reasons mentioned in the “Other” category were either indecisive ones (all-of-the-above type) or along the line of instant gratification.

In conclusion I want to say that regardless of the reason why we commit to a new bottle purchase, if we do not break the bank, the only thing that matters is whether we feel satisfied or disappointed with our acquisitions en masse. If the former – keep enjoying that aspect of your hobby (and if the latter – come to us and we’ll organize an intervention!)

And finally – the results of the inaugural draw for 5 ml decant of Atelier Cologne Silver Iris:

Silver Iris Draw Results

#1 – Vanessa! To tell the truth, I don’t remember for a long time #1 to be selected as a winner (not just on my blog). Please contact me with the mailing instructions.

Images: my own

Love at First Sniff or Portrait of a Serial Spontaneous Perfume Buyer

Look at me – I’m all grown-up: I have a new and cleaner looking blog design (I had to do it since WP has retired my original theme), use a real poll and even got my first guest writer!

Please welcome hajusuuri – a perfumista, my close scent relative and a regular commenter on many perfume blogs.

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In the hierarchy of perfumista sins, blind buying full bottles (FB) ranks as #1, and buying spontaneously (or impulsively) comes in at a close second. Given Undina’s meticulous recording of all perfumes in her possession (down to the very last sample) and her supremely enviable tracking of her SOTD and sampling activities for the past three years, was anyone surprised that the closest she came to being spontaneous) ended up being a YEAR after she took home a sample of Diptyque Volutes? (That was the post in which I offered hajusuuri to write a guest post to “compensate” for my indecisiveness – Undina)

Spontaneous Perfumes

So what normally prompts spontaneous perfume buying? Assuming you liked/loved the first encounter with a perfume, here are some of my reasons and a list of the perfumes I bought1:

  • The perfume is being discontinued or is a limited edition – Guerlain Iris Ganache
  • I’m on vacation and may not have the opportunity again – read all about it at Chemist in the Bottle
  • I have a deal such as % / $ off, Gift with Purchase (GWP), etc., and don’t have the patience to wait for a better one to come along – Atelier Cologne buy four 30 ml get one free and I ended up with Sous le toit de Paris x 2, Rose Anonyme, Mistral Patchouli and Vetiver Fatale,  Atelier Cologne Silver Iris (20% off at Sephora AND a free 30 ml of any Atelier Cologne…I picked Silver Iris for the freebie), Demeter Tomato and Pumpkin Pie (they were cheap and were buy 2 get a rollerball free), La Collection Privee Christian Dior Bois d’Argent ($s off event at Bergdorf and a very generous SA), I Profumi di Firenze Vaniglia del Madagascar (30% off 2 items and if you must know what the other item was…it was Mona di Orio Violette Fumee which became a relative bargain with the discount), Jo Malone Saffron Cologne Intense (gift event at Bloomingdale’s), Marni Rose (another creepy doll! and since I got this at Saks, I was able to have the SA walk around with me to obtain perfume samples from other counters), Tom Ford Violet Blonde (free faux ostrich leatherette atomizer filled with perfume of choice)
  • Do I really need a reason? – Atelier Cologne Cedrat Enivrant, By Kilian gold snake wrapped atomizer, Hermes Jour d’ Hermes and Voyage d’ Hermes, Jo Malone Ginger Biscuit and Parfumerie Generale Indochine

Spontaneous Perfumes

Tell us about your spontaneous perfume purchases (whatever this means in your book – be that purchasing a bottle the same day you tried the perfume for the first time or getting the perfume from the bottom position of your wish list).

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For this month’s Entertaining Statistics post please vote on the main reason of your spontaneous perfume buys:

And now – a giveaway!

To celebrate her first guest post on this blog hajusuuri offers a 5 ml decant of Atelier Cologne Silver Iris. This giveaway is open to everyone worldwide. To be entered vote in the poll and leave a comment telling in what country you live. If you do not want to be entered still vote, please. The giveaway is open until 11:59PM PST on March 1st, 2014. The winner will be chosen via Random.org and announced in the February Statistics post. Please note that neither Undina nor hajusuuri is responsible for replacing the decant if it were to get lost or damaged.

1It’s possible I may have selective amnesia but, to the best of my recollection, these were my spontaneous buys. Note: I excluded: 1) anything I bought online immediately after sampling at home and 2) any < 30 ml FBs; if I included these, this post would be 2x as long and that’s all I will say about that :)

Images: all by hajusuuri

Chasing Daphne

I have a brown thumb. I know it is so because once I killed ivy – and it wasn’t even my intent! It doesn’t upset me too much since I never felt like growing anything. But despite that I’ve just adopted a plant. I wanted to do it for a while but for the last several years something would come up in January-February – the only two months when Daphne Odora (Winter Daphne) blooms. And knowing my “abilities” I wanted to get at least the first bloom.

Apollo and Daphne by Gian Lorenzo Bernini

Apollo and Daphne, by Gian Lorenzo Bernini

I found Daphne many years ago while walking in the park next to the office. I smelled something wonderful in the air – and just methodically sniffed every flower I could see around until I found it. Then it took me another year to figure out the name of that plant and then several more years to finally get it.

Daphne’s flowers aren’t that impressive: pale pink with darker center. They resemble many others flowering shrubs’ blooms. But the scent is heavenly. I thought how to describe Daphne’s aroma when serendipitously a couple of days ago I saw Ineke Ruhland’s Facebook post about that plant and I figured out that she was better qualified to give you an idea of how it smells – in case you haven’t smelled it before.

I would say it’s a must-have plant for gardeners who like scented plants or for perfume lovers. I’ve heard many gardeners rave about the scent, which I would describe as orange flower + lemon + honey + molasses. It’s sweet but not cloying. […] When you run across one with loads of blooms, it’s a real wafter.

Daphne odora

Since I smelled Daphne for the first time I wanted to have perfume with that scent. “Daphne odora” was my standard answer to questions in different polls as to which note/scent you want created in a perfume form. From what I read, all parts of Daphne plant are poisonous so I don’t think there will ever be an actual Daphne note in any perfume but I’m fine with a recreation – as long as it smells close.

The first (and so far the only) perfume I ever saw listing Daphne as a note was Eau de Tommy Sooni II by Tommy Sooni (it’s not the most imaginative name, is it?). I read Victoria’s (EauMG) glowing review and it was an immediate lemming. You should read it too if you haven’t tried this perfume yet. I don’t think I can describe it better.

Does it smell like Daphne? It doesn’t the way Carnal Flower smells of tuberose, Diorissimo of lily-of-the-valley or Miss Charming of roses. When I smell it on its own, my mind doesn’t conjure Daphne immediately. But when I do a side-by-side sniffing of the real flower and Eau de Tommi Sooni II, I can “see” the resemblance. It might be that this perfume has one of the many other types of Daphne, not Daphne odora that I like.

I think that Eau de Tommi Sooni II is one of those perfumes praising which one does it a disservice: since this perfume doesn’t wow you from the first sniff telling you how wonderful it smells might create wrong expectations and cause a disappointment. But I can say that it is interesting: once I applied it I wanted to smell it again and again, it captivated me. When I finished the first sample I thought that I’d need a decant. By the time the second sample was half-gone I decided to get a bottle and see if I could make the plant last as long as 100 ml of the perfume. I hope that Daphne plant doesn’t run away from me in terror or turn into a nymph.

So despite the not inspiring name and an objectionable bottle size (brands, be reasonable! Why make only 100 ml bottles??!) Eau de Tommi Sooni II has joined my collection as this year birthday perfume bottle.

Eau de Tommi Sooni II

Images: Apollo and Daphne – from here, the last two my own

Short Conversations About Perfume: Like a Stranger

 

Kiss me
I want you to kiss me like a stranger once again
Kiss me like a stranger once again…

It’s a warm sunny winter day. My vSO and I are driving along the coast. It’s my birthday and he’s taking me on a short [almost] surprise vacation to the beautiful ocean view hotel. Tom Waits’ voice from the speakers – I gave that Bad as Me CD to my vSO for his birthday a while ago but I haven’t heard it until now:

You wear the same kind of perfume
You wore when we met
I suppose there’s something comforting
In knowing what to expect
But when you brushed up against me
Before I knew your name
Everything was thrilling
‘Cause nothin’ was the same

I (turning to my vSO):  You know, I actually am wearing today the same perfume as I wore when we met.
He: Oh, really?
I: Yeah, it’s my favorite Climat. It felt right for the occasion.

Monterey

The next day on the way back I find the same song. My vSO: Are you listening to it again because of the perfume?
I: Yes. And because it’s a very romantic song.
He: It is.
(after a pause)
I: Could you recognize any of my perfumes?
He: (with a sigh) No, I can’t say that I could…

It doesn’t upset me: he never did. So for me “…there’s something comforting in knowing what to expect…” And for him? At least my perfume every time is not the same. “Like a stranger…”

 

 

Image: my own

A Postcard from Undina: Rain!

Marple Leaves In Water

Finally it’s raining! Who would have thought I would be that excited about gray sky without a single ray of light coming through the clouds! I feel very peaceful and calm  – as if the rain washes away my stress from the work week. A purring furry ball  on my lap intensifies the effect. I do not need to be anywhere. I do not have to do anything. I can just relax and enjoy an almost colorless watercolor wash from my window.

I hope your weather cooperates with your plans this weekend.

With love,
Undina

 

Image: my own

Entertaining Statistics: January 2014

 

I know how it sounds to the most of my readers but I have to say it: we had an unpleasantly warm January. Don’t get me wrong: I enjoy the light jacket weather as much as the next freezing east coaster would but we really need at least some rain. And +22˚C (71˚F) isn’t a normal temperature for this month even in our region. So now I can’t even pretend that it’s winter and time to wear my winter perfumes.

For this month’s statistics post I asked you to name five niche brands that, in their opinion, are in the “need to know” category for anybody who’s interested in perfumes. I asked the same question in one of the perfume groups on Facebook.

29 people participated on FB and 19 in the blog. 49 brands were named, 26 of them more than once.

Since I know that some people participated both here and there I thought of splitting results by the source but it didn’t change the outcome: both groups, as well as the total, returned the same set of 5 brands, just in slightly different order (numbers in parenthesis – places FB/Blog):

Serge Lutens (1/1)

L’Artisan Parfumeur (4/2)

Editions de Parfums Frederic Malle (2/3)

Amouage (3/4)

Parfumerie Générale (5/5)

Stats January 2014

The chart above shows actual number of votes for the top 10 recommended brands. From my original list only Ormonde Jayne didn’t make the cut and moved to the sixth place. I need to get more samples from Parfumerie Générale line and see why it made it to the fifth place.

Out of 52 perfumes I wore or tested in January 17 perfumes were from 5 out of these 10 brands. What was unusual: this month I tried only five perfumes for the first time. Did you come across anything interesting this year?

Rusty had nothing to do with any of the numbers but he has to requite all the compliments he got in the previous post – even without appearing in it! These are pictures of him with perfumes from the “need to know” list.

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Images: my own

N Niche Perfume Brands You Need to Know Right Now

 

Don’t ask me how but a couple of months ago I came across the article 20 Niche Perfume Brands You Need to Know Right Now. As it usually happens, while reading somebody else’s list of anything on a subject you’re interested in, I agreed with some of the choices, disagreed with others and thought of additional nominees. And then I started working on my list and realized that 20 were too many. Not because I can’t easily come up with at least three times as many brands but because even at 20 one starts including brands that are just personal favorites, do not exactly fit the definition or those that are so tiny that position on the list is too big for them.

So I decided to come up with my personal list of five brands. In my selection process I used the following considerations:

  1. The brand should be a true stand-alone brand, not a private/limited/boutique line of a big brand (so not Guerlain, Chanel, Dior or Hermes) or a spin-off under a bigger parent’s umbrella (Tom Ford and Jo Malone are out too).
  2. The brand should have enough perfumes in their range to potentially work for different people (so as much as I love Neela Vermeire Creations or respect vero profumo and Puredistance, these lines are too young to get a spot in the short “must” list).
  3. Brands should be available for testing (directly or through online services) both in the U.S. and Europe (so no tiny artisan brands for this list).

Five Brands

My list of Five Niche Brands You Need to Know (with a brief description of why – not for my regular readers but for future visitors who find my blog through some unexpected searches, e.g. “lily of the valley+cat”):

Serge Lutens (http://www.sergelutens.com/) is probably the ultimate niche perfume brand. It’s bold, unconventional but at the same time still perfumes that you want to wear and not just test, analyze and review. Kafka (Kafkaesque) covered the topic of Serge Lutens – both a persona and a brand – extensively and I urge you to read Part I and Part II of her story.

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Amouage (http://www.amouage.com/) is an epitome of opulence, luxury and quality. These rich and mostly classic perfumes won’t suit everybody in the modern sheer-smelling world but the brand is worth knowing even just for educational purposes to see how perfumes can be anti-minimalistic and not transparent. Watch four short videos on now smell this in which Christopher Chong, creative director of Amouage, talks about perfume and the brand.

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Editions de Parfums Frederic Malle (http://www.fredericmalle.com/) is the first brand ever to put a perfumer’s name on a bottle. In the world in which a scent IP doesn’t exist it was a huge step towards promoting a creator, an artist and not a money purse. Read Natalie’s (Another Perfume Blog) interview with Frédéric Malle. (UPD: APB is closed now)

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L’Artisan Parfumeur‘s (http://www.artisanparfumeur.com) perfumes might be not the most innovative (though over years they’ve created some very unusual perfumes) but very wearable, so it is a perfect starter house for anybody who wants to venture from the mainstream perfume market into the niche one. Read Luca Turin’s L’Artisan Parfumeur 30 years later for the tidbits of the house’s history.

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Ormonde Jayne (http://www.ormondejayne.com/) has a whole line-up of very likable and distinct perfumes at reasonable (for modern niche market) prices. Ormonde Jayne’s perfumes smell modern and classic at the same time. Read a very warm and personable interview with Linda Pilkington by Sigrun (Riktig Parfym) and a recent Andrew Buck’s (Scentrist) chat with her for more information about the brand.

 

So these are my choices of the “need to know” niche perfume brands. Give me your five choices. Do not try to purposefully complement my list: if you agree with all or some of my choices – say so; but feel free to change any or even all brands if you have a different answer to my the question. I’ll try to do something with all the answers for my January statistics post.

 

Image: my own

Down the Rabbit Hole through the Looking-Glass

 

I don’t like changes and there have always been many constants in my life. Today, on the third anniversary of Undina’s Looking Glass, I want to write about two things I liked for almost as long as I can remember myself: perfumes and storytelling.

At six, my mother and I had a ritual: she would read me a chapter from Alice in Wonderland before bed time, and the next day I would tell it in front of my group in a kindergarten. I think our teacher just appreciated 10-15 minutes of the calm time while she didn’t have to entertain us but I felt very proud to stand in front of the other 12-15 kids and tell the next part of the story.

Through the Looking-Glass, and What Alice Found There I read already on my own when I was nine. I don’t remember if I shared that book with anybody at the time but clearly it imprinted in my mind and many years later transformed into the idea behind the idea of this blog’s name.

Alice in NY

It has been long time since I was a kid but I still like telling stories: not fiction but rather something I’ve read, heard or experienced. And since I have the perfect audience (thank you, my friends and readers!), here’s the next chapter of my perfumed story for you.

Even though perfumes were always in my life, until recently I was mostly familiar with the mass market variety. Over the years I’ve approached the proverbial rabbit hole a couple of times without realizing it (several harder to find or niche perfumes made it into my collection without me knowing the significance of that) but every time I would return to the safe ground of mainstream perfumes.

Four years ago, I had a small collection of perfumes, arrogant notion that I knew about most of new releases (my world was limited by local Macy’s, Nordstrom and Sephora) and a firm belief that everything smells like everything else. I still loved and wore perfumes that I owned but I felt apathetic about new releases and didn’t expect to find anything interesting and worth my attention.

In summer 2010, my vSO and I spent four days in London. The trip didn’t start well: due to an oversight we ended up staying in a tiny and extremely hot mansard room. 12 m2 for everything, including a bathroom and the advertised “kitchenette.” It was so tight that the bed was the only place one could spend time on while being inside. So we tried to spend as much time in the city as we could to get back after dark when the temperature inside would become more tolerable.

London Apartment

The idea to visit Harrods came from my vSO: he read about it in the guide book and thought it would be interesting to see the biggest department store in Europe. We were walking there as in a museum for a while before we came across the perfume department – the regular one, I hadn’t even heard about Roja Dove’s Haute Parfumerie until after we returned from that trip.

I wasn’t looking for a new perfume; I was just leisurely browsing the selection when a new perfume found me. An SA almost forced a scented paper strip on me. I knew nothing about the brand. I had never seen their perfumes before. But it was easier just to take that blotter… The brand was Ormonde Jayne. And the perfume was Ta’if.

I liked it so much that I was seriously considering an on-the-spot purchase but remembering an unpleasant experience described in My First Scrubber I decided that I needed to give it some skin time first. Shall we say, the whole 15-20 minutes? I sprayed my wrist, put the blotter in my purse and we went to the next department – just to wait for Ta’if to develop.

That next department happened to be a Jewelry Department. I was looking for anything in that department even less than for new perfume… You know where the story is heading, right? I found a perfect ring that I just had to have. And the more I smelled my wrist the more I liked that perfume. And the store was closing, so I had to decide quickly what I should get. I knew that once you pass on a jewelry you like, it would be almost impossible to find it again. And with perfumes you should be able to find anything online and even cheaper (yeah, I told you I was a little arrogant). I left Harrods with a ring.

Shaun Leane Cherry Blossom Ring

Ta’if had transferred in my purse from the blotter to my phone and stuck to it for days (who knew about that property of gorilla glass?!) haunting me but at the same time making my evenings at that shoebox of a room a little better.

I came home, started looking for Ormonde Jayne, realized it wasn’t available in the U.S., and while at it I discovered The Perfumed Court, perfume blogs and the whole world of niche and indie perfumes.

Ta’if by Ormonde Jayne is my White Rabbit following whom I started my adventures in the Perfumeland. Had I been more spontaneous (which I’m still not), I would have gotten that bottle right then and there and who knows when or even if I would have come to where I am now. But it took me a couple of months to find a decant, a couple of years to get a travel bottle of Ta’if EdP and another year to add a bottle of Ta’if parfum to my collection. It took me three years and 240 posts to write my down-the-rabbit-hole story.

Ormonde Jayne Ta'if Parfum

There are many reviews of Ta’if EdP out there, so I won’t even attempt to do a review. But I’ll share the opinion on the difference between the two versions – eau de perfume and parfum. They are very similar; the latter is a little smoother and has a slightly better longevity but all that isn’t worth an almost 2.5 difference in price ($126 vs. $300). Ta’if is gorgeous perfume, and if you like it go for the eau de perfume concentration.

So this is the story of Ta’if, one of my top three all-time favorite perfumes with the other two being Climat by Lancôme, the story of which started this blog three years ago, and Ubar by Amouage, a story of which I’ll probably tell one day.

 

Images: my own

Rusty Travels… Virtually

 

Many of you mentioned now and then that Rusty might have a career in modeling. We talked it through with him and agreed that it would be too much pressure so for now he’ll stick to helping me out with my blog. But (after a couple of treats) he couldn’t refuse posing with a bottle of perfume that had a short stop at my place on its way to Vanessa (Bonkers about Perfume). Follow the link below to read the review, smile and see one more of Rusty’s shots.

Rusty and Zelda

… the first time in my professional life that I have been asked to ‘slip into something more comfortable’

My First Creed: Jasmin Impératrice Eugénie

 

For a very long time I haven’t approached Creed. There were several reasons for that.

First, when I didn’t know anything about the brand, its line-up in Neiman Marcus looked so unapproachable that I would keep passing the Creed’s counter long after NM itself stopped being intimidating (though it’s still too expensive for me to shop there).

Later, when I already knew about Creed, in my mind it was closely connected to the testosterone overdose coming from the certain forum and some Facebook groups: all those batch numbers and bottles parts’ details were just making me nauseous and didn’t inspire the exploration.

I was bored. There was absolutely nothing new for me to sniff at the local Neiman Marcus. Because of my previous success with gardenia perfumes – Guerlain Cruel Gardenia and Ineke Hothouse Flower – I was mildly curious about the new Creed’s Fleurs de Gardenia. They didn’t have it yet but it was too late: I “left myself open” and a Creed’s SA, who looked like she also was quite bored, decided it was her chance.

For the next fifteen minutes she was enticing me with different scents on paper strips, names and notes. I decided not to fight back and compliantly stood there nodding. I must have fulfilled my part of the SA-potential client dance, so she easily agreed to make a sample of the perfume that I liked the most – Jasmin Impératrice Eugénie.

Creed Jasmin Imperatrice Eugenie

I wonder how Jasmin Impératrice Eugénie smelled 160 (one hundred and sixty!) years ago when, according to the official legend, it was created by Henry Creed II for the wife of Napoleon III, Empress Eugenie? I suspect it had been reformulated multiple times even before its public release in 1989 and definitely more than once since. But I’ve never smelled any of previous Jasmin Impératrice Eugénie reincarnations so no regrets here.

Official list of notes includes bergamot, Bulgarian rose, ambergris, Italian jasmine, vanilla and sandalwood. For a while I didn’t smell jasmine in Jasmin Impératrice Eugénie – until I tried it in parallel with Dior‘s Grand Bal. Now I can clearly detect it. But still for me this perfume isn’t about jasmine. This perfume is jasmine wrapped into and creamy sandalwood with just a hint of vanilla. I can’t detect rose but I’m not too good with that note when it’s not in a leading role. Jasmin Impératrice Eugénie is very smooth and well-blended. It has a good projection so it’s not one of those perfumes in which you can bathe. It stays on my skin for about 8 hours during which it doesn’t change much to my nose (though I’m positive that at least a couple of my readers would be able to parse out more distinct stages). I like this perfume very much.

Rusty and Creed Jasmin Imperatrice Eugenie

My vSO also likes Jasmin Impératrice Eugénie. I know that not because he gave it to me as a New Year gift (I had a hand in it) but because he complimented me on three separate occasions (which doesn’t happen too often) without knowing what I was wearing (which does happen a lot).

Do you have a favorite Creed perfume?

 

Images: my own