A Postcard from Rusty: Happy Valentine’s Day 2016!

Happy Valentines Day 2016
I’m positive Rusty wasn’t just using this opportunity to sit on the table where he’s allowed only for taking pictures but wanted to send the best wishes for all of you, whose compliments earned him at least a couple of packets of treats over the years.

I join him to wish you happiness – and not only on this arbitrary assigned day.

[N]SFW Perfumes

Flying on a plane, attending a symphony concert or visiting people in hospital – in all these circumstances we know the space limitations and are trying not to arrive in a nuclear cloud of a killer perfume. But all these situations happen once in a while so it’s easier to be mindful of the surroundings. When it comes to wearing perfumes to the office it gets trickier: we spend there a huge part of our life and we spend it mostly with the same people.

Many years ago I had a co-worker R. who really liked Victoria’s Secret Dream Angels Halo. I liked it too and even bought a small bottle of it, but I never wore it to work because everybody knew it was R.’s perfume: you could tell she was in the office on the second floor once you opened an entrance door on the first floor. As I said, I liked the scent but I was happy that we worked in separate offices. Since she was a senior person (both age- and position-wise) nobody dared to tell her she was going overboard with application. I don’t know if she was done with the bottle or somebody finally decided to speak up, but her next perfume wasn’t as loud. But for me it was a lesson well learned and for many years, long before my perfumista times, I classified all of the perfumes I wore or tried as safe-for-work or not-safe-for-work. DKNY Women, Calvin Klein Truth, Cacharel Noa fleur and later several Jo Malone‘s bottles were my SFW perfumes back then.

Rusty and Cacharel Noa Fleur

During the descent down the rabbit hole, for a while I used most of the time I was awake for testing perfumes. And since testing meant putting on my skin something, with which I was unfamiliar, for both my and my co-workers’ sake I applied them very sparingly (besides, have you seen those Luckyscent’s samples?!). So even though many of the perfumes I tested during that period weren’t particularly SFW-type, with a careful application they didn’t bother anybody much (bar a couple of accidents with a crushed vial and mistaken identity).

But after testing 356 perfumes in one year, I realized that I wasn’t wearing my favorite perfumes from the rapidly growing collection. So gradually I switched to wearing to work perfumes I love and testing in evenings or during weekends. And that’s when I discovered that not wearing Angel or Fracas (other than maybe in homeopathic dozes) wasn’t enough: I had to take into account personal dislikes of people with whom I was sharing space daily for 8-9 hours.

Trying to be a good person, I asked all my office-mates to let me know if any of my perfumes would bother them: with the size of my perfume wardrobe I could afford not to wear some of them, right? Over time I learned that one of my co-workers disliked Tom Ford Amber Absolute (“too kitchen spicy”) and Jo Malone‘s Sweet Milk. I had to let him go: who dislikes Sweet Milk?!! (Ok, just kidding, there were multiple disciplinary infractions.) Another co-worker said that Guerlain Encens Mythique d’Orient was too strong and “smelled as in Men’s department at Macy’s.” Though I was sad when she left (not because of my perfumes choice!), I was glad I could wear my Encens Mythique d’Orient again.

Guerlain Encens Mythique d’Orient

Several years ago during our short perfume sniffing walk with Birgit and Sandra (Olfactoria’s Travels) in Vienna in one of the shops Birgit attracted my attention to the brand. Her comment was along the line that she didn’t like it in particular but it was one of the brands that weren’t widely available elsewhere. Prompted by her an SA handed me a test strip with perfume – Chic Shaik No 30 by Designer Shaik.

We visited four shops that day and tried numerous perfumes but that single paper strip came with me back to the U.S. via Paris. Birgit was right: three years ago Shaik wasn’t easy to find in the U.S. But I still managed to get a tiny vial of Chic Shaik No 30 from one of the decanter sites and later tracked and bought a bottle.

Chic Shaik No 30 by Designer Shaik

When I unpacked my purchase, I couldn’t believe what I saw. Pictures cannot properly convey how bizarre everything about this perfume’s packaging was – from a flimsy box à la Ghirardelli-chocolate-packet with that awful bow to the horrendous bottle adornments; with “FROM THE PRINCE IN YOUR LIFE” etched into an unexpectedly good quality coffin-like leather case as an apogee of this disaster. I’m not familiar with Middle Eastern aesthetics so I might be off with my impressions but I do not understand this Etsy-worth chic for expensive perfume.

Packaging and name aside (people, you have to be Chanel for the numbering to work and even Amouage got most of us confused with their Roman numerals!), I like Chic Shaik No 30. It combines two of my favorite characteristics: it’s both floral and amber perfume. The brand’s site doesn’t provide any useful information so I’m going with Fragrantica’s notes: bergamot, cardamom, passion fruit, rose, jasmine, patchouli, vanilla, ambergris and tonka bean. As usual, my nose isn’t sensitive enough to recognize most of them but I enjoy the composition.

Chic Shaik No 30 by Designer Shaik

I thought that with a light application Chic Shaik No 30 was a perfectly SFW perfume. But a co-worker with whom I used to share the office took a strong dislike to it. Surprisingly, she pinpointed exactly what bothered her about it: she said it smelled like a souk. She didn’t protest any of my other perfumes, so I had to respect her pet peeve.

I wore Chic Shaik No 30 on my first day at the new job. So far no complaints but only time will tell.

Did you come across any perfume that you considered SFW but got complaints, unfavorable comments or some form of non-verbal disapproval from a co-worker?

 

Images: my own

How Mainstream Are You (In Regard to Niche Perfumes)?

Recently Elena (Perfume Shrine) published a list of fourteen most popular perfumes (as in “samples or bottles bought”) from Luckyscent for 2015. As I was looking through the list, I realized that I haven’t tried most of the perfumes (13 out of 14!). The only one I tried was Penhaligons’ Ostara.

Here’s that list:

4160 TuesdaysMaxed Out
A Lab on FireMon musc a moi
Andree PutmanL’Original
DS & DurgaDebaser
Eau d’ItalieMorn to Dusk
Naomi GoodsirIris Cendre
Parfum d’EmpireTabac Tabou
Papillon Artisan PerfumesSalome
PenhaligonsOstara
Shay & BlueFramboise Noire
SlumberhouseKiste
Stephane Humbert LucasMortal Skin
TauervilleRose Flash
The Beautiful Mind SeriesPrecision and Grace

Take a look at the list and tell me:

  • How many of these perfumes have you tried?
  • Which one(s) did you really like and would recommend me to try?

Rusty and Door

I know: I was very busy in 2015 and after all these years of testing I’m very selective and a little jaded when it comes to chasing new perfumes. While it didn’t bother me much that I hadn’t tried many of the Top N perfumes from other blogs’ year round-ups, strangely after reading this “consumer” list I feel a little bit excluded (probably like Rusty on the picture above). Can you help me to figure out if I actually missed anything worth trying?

 

Image: my own

Undina’s Looking Glass Turns Five

How many times can the same perfume be featured on the same blog? Let’s see…

Five years ago I started this blog with the story of my first and life-long perfume love Climat by Lancôme. A year later Vanessa (Bonkers about Perfume), Suzanne (Eiderdown Press) and Natalie (Another Perfume Blog) participated in one of the Déjà vu series’ post doing a blind comparison of Amouage Gold and Lancôme Climat. Two years ago Climat made an appearance in a short romantic account of my birthday trip. And finally, last year I invited my whole Climat family to my blog’s fourth anniversary. So, not counting numerous mentions whenever a topic of favorite perfumes is brought up, I told you four stories about this perfume. Believe it or not, I have the fifth one.

Several months ago, after probably a year of silence, out of the blue, I got a note from Jordan (Fragrant Man) alerting me to the news about my favorite perfume: to celebrate the 40th anniversary of the brand’s presence in Russian market, Lancôme has launched a limited edition of ClimatL’Edition Mythique.

Lancome Climat L'Edition Mythique

I immediately went online and read everything I could find about that release: there were only 3,000 bottles made and it was available in one boutique in Moscow. There weren’t any “professional” reviews out yet but I found several first impressions. As always, some liked it and thought it was very close to how Climat used to smell in 80s, others were disappointed.

I wanted it. Good or not, I wanted to experience it myself and be the judge. And that’s when I started panicking: Climat used to be one of the most popular perfumes in Russia; if I wanted it, how many other people – with the same nostalgia – would want it too? Yes, it was on the pricey side, but three thousand bottles didn’t seem that much for one of the richest cities in the world with 12 million population (not counting tourists).

You know how friendly and helpful perfumistas are. What I’ve discovered was that people in the cooking community are also extremely responsive and outgoing. Once I realized I didn’t know anybody from Moscow, I asked my friend Katya (Lyukum Cooking Lab) if maybe somebody from her circles could help.

Within two days a multi-step extraction mission had been devised. Katya’s friend who lived in Moscow made a trip to the boutique and got a bottle of Climat – L’Edition Mythique. Then she handed it to another friend who was leaving for China on a culinary school tour, which my friend Katya was joining as well. From China Katya brought the bottle to Texas where she lives and my friend A., whom some of you know as a “perfume mule”, went there for a business trip and delivered the perfume to me. Moscow -> China -> Texas -> Bay Area, CA. It is one of the most well-traveled bottles I’ve known!

Rusty and Lancome Climat L'Edition Mythique

Since then I wore this perfume a couple of times as well as tested it in parallel with all other bottles and samples I have. I don’t think it’s better than the previous re-issue (2005 La Collection) or closer to the 80s’ version that I knew and loved. But I’m glad that thanks to all the friends, virtual and real-life ones, I was able to get this bottle: I own the latest three genuine Lancôme’s takes on this perfume – Climat La Collection (EdP), Climat (EdT) and Climat – L’Edition Mythique (perfume extract) and I love them all.

So, on this fifth anniversary of my blog I officially announce that I stop chasing my tail in the quest for this perfume because I do not remember any longer how “my” Climat smelled 30 years ago and I do not miss it.

Speaking of tails… How many tails do you think are there on the photo above?

 

Images: my own

P.S. If you’re not familiar with this perfume, I recommend reading the blind comparison post from the link above.

P.P.S. If you have any interest in cooking, I strongly urge you to browse my friend’s Katya’s site (though I do not recommend doing it while being hungry).

Serge Lutens Boxeuses: Hanging Up My Gloves

Several days ago Tara (A Bottled Rose) linked her great review of Serge LutensBoxeuses to my post from 2014 (Serge Lutens Boxeuses: Round One – I won). I remembered what I wrote back then in the conclusion of the story:

The year isn’t over yet and it looks like I’ll need to consider either changing my job or buying a bottle of Boxeuses

Since the situation in 2015 didn’t improve, I welcomed a bottle of Boxeuses into my collection and it proved to be one of my Top 10 perfumes that got the most skin time in 2015, which on its own attests to what a year it was.

Serge Lutens Boxeuses

Yesterday I wore Boxeuses on my last day at my job of many-many-many years. The irony was that it wasn’t even just symbolic: I actually attended my last meeting of the type, for which this perfume was meant.

Changing jobs after that many years at the same place is a scary step. So even though I made this important (and long overdue) decision a while ago, it took me some time to go through with it. I liked many aspects of that job and people with whom I worked day-to-day. I’ll miss them. I’ll miss a great view from the window of my office. I’ll miss traditions I’ve created and fostered over the years (I’ve told on my blog a couple of stories before – about Halloween Nail Decoration contest and holiday ornaments). I’ll miss other small things that aren’t that important in the grand scheme of things but still are important on the personal level.

Next week I’m starting a new job. As with everything new, there is an excitement, worries and, of course, hopes. Even though I like Boxeuses, in future I hope to wear this perfume just for pleasure of experiencing the scent and not as a coping strategy. I also hope that maybe this time I will be able to make this beautiful orchid – a farewell gift from a coworker – bloom more than once. As the first step I should probably hide both from Rusty.

Rusty and Serge Lutens Boxeuses

Images: my own

Entertaining Statistics: 2015 Year Round-up

It has been a while since I did my last statistics post, so I want to report that we finally got some rain. It’s not as strong here, in the Bay Area, as it is in Southern California and it still hasn’t put an end to the 5-year drought but it definitely helped. It’s interesting how circumstances might change someone’s perspective: even 10 years ago I would have never thought that I would ever feel genuinely happy because of the consecutive rainy days.

2015 was one of the busiest years in my adult life. And in addition to that I was fighting persistent cough for about three months. It proved to be an allergy not related to my perfume usage but for a while I wasn’t sure. As the result both my perfumes testing and wearing went down significantly.

Since I wasn’t actively seeking new releases, I’ve got to try meager 28 perfumes released in 2015. As I was reading “Best of 2015” on different blogs, I kept shaking my head: no, nope, didn’t try this one either… It doesn’t upset me much: I have a great collection of perfumes that I enjoy wearing and last year I managed to test 64 more new (for me) perfumes, which makes it 92 new perfumes tested – not that bad. And I was doing some re-testing of previously tested perfumes. That brings me to 178 perfumes from 85 brands tested on 227 occasions. The numbers are the lowest out of the last four years during which I track perfumes testing separately from the perfume wearing. I wonder if this downhill trend continues this year or have I reached a plateau?

My Stats Year 2015: Testing

Before I looked closer at the perfumes I tested for the first time I had a feeling that I disliked most of the perfumes I tried. It’s not so in reality: I liked more perfumes that I disliked (29 vs. 23), but mostly I felt indifferent (40). Either I’m getting pickier or perfumes are getting worse or it’s some strange statistical anomaly and I managed to get mostly boring perfumes to try last year. Even among those 29 perfumes that I liked only one became a bottle in my collection (Jo Malone Mimosa & Cardamom), one more will probably end up there as well this year (Puredistance WHITE) and I think of re-testing six or seven to see if I actually would want to wear any of them (Atelier Cologne Jasmin Angélique, Frapin 1270, Giorgio Armani Myrrhe Impériale, NVC Pichola, Ormonde Jayne Vanille d’Iris, L’Artisan Parfumeur Noir Exquis and, maybe, Dame Perfumery Black Flower Mexican Vanilla).

I wrote the above paragraph before I read the following observation on Vanessa’s blog (Bonkers About Perfume):

So I wonder if I have simply tried too little this year for the odds of an epiphany to be stacked in my favour, or whether I am too hardboiled, or have just reached a more mellow phase in my hobby where nothing is going to get my heart racing.

Interestingly, that as much as I’m of the same mind with Vanessa on that notion, I’m completely opposite on the topic she covers next:

I am racking my brains to remember if I have ever felt completely transported by a scent – you know, a feeling of being utterly blown away. I’d like to think so, but as I sit here I can’t connect with any such feelings from the past. Even my all-time favourite scents don’t move me now to that degree.

When I wear my all-time favorites almost every time I feel amazed how much I like them.

In 2015 I wore 156 perfumes from 56 brands on 304 occasions.

My Stats Year 2015: Top 10 Brands

2015 was the first year (out of four), in which not a single new brand made it to my Top 10 Brands list. The first seven brands from 2015 appeared in each of the previous three years’ round-ups as well. Number eight made Top 10 in 2012 & 2013. Number nine and ten appeared once in 2013 and 2014’s lists correspondingly.

As to the perfumes that got the most skin time in 2015, there weren’t any surprises other than, maybe, Bois des Iles – but only because it’s the only perfume on the list that I used from the decant. Maybe it’s a sign?

Brand Perfume Times worn
Lancome Climat (parfum + EdT) 9
Ormonde Jayne Ta’if 9
Giorgio Armani La Femme Bleue 8
Diptyque Volutes 8
Chanel Bois des Iles (EdT + extrait) 8
Tom Ford Fleur de Chine 7
Serge Lutens Boxeuses 7
Creed Jasmin Impératrice Eugénie 5
Ormonde Jayne Tsarina 5
Les Parfums de Rosine Rose d’Amour 5
By Kilian Amber Oud 5

Looking back at the patterns of my perfume behavior in 2015, I don’t think I need to make any significant changes. The only New Year resolution I made is to think if I have any “albatrosses” (©Vanessa) in my collection and, maybe, to try to let them go. As an alternative, I consider freeing up one additional shelf in the closet…

Rusty and SL De Profundis

Do you have any perfume-related New Year resolutions?

 

Images: my own

Ornaments Riddle Answers and Perfume Draw Results

Thank you to everybody who tried to guess mediums for the last three years’ holiday ornaments from my story.

The medium for 2015 proved to be the easiest to recognize. It was a spoon. Though I threw you a curve: there were two metal spoons and a wooden one.

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2014th medium was harder but two people recognized old wooden clothes pins.

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And 2013 proved to be the hardest: only one reader – Lisa Plum – has recognized sand dollars.

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Now to the giveaway results. Since it was a Christmas draw and there were more prizes than contenders, everybody gets their wishes granted – one way or the other.

pats133 gets Jo Malone’s Peony & Blush Suede

Since two commenters requested Serge Lutens’ Chergui, I’ve solicited Rusty’s help to choose to whose home the mini-bottle will go. Five minutes and two scratches later (I wasn’t fast enough to move my fingers away from his claws), we had a winner:

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Lindaloo

But have I mentioned it was a Christmas draw? Lisa Plum gets a 5 ml decant from my bottle of Chergui.

All the winners: please send me your shipping addresses.

 

Images: all my own but a sand dollar’s one (can’t find credits).

Small Things that Brighten Life: Holiday Ornaments

It’s not a perfume-related story with a lot of the holiday-appropriate pictures, a riddle in the end and a perfume draw (feel free to jump there directly any time)

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The Story

Have you ever made your own holiday/Christmas ornaments – either when you were little or with your own kids?

Even though I always loved New Year and decorated my tree, the only attempt at making my own ornament I remember was when, following some TV show instructions, I wrapped a couple of walnuts in foil.

Many-many years later having moved to the U.S., one day after I got over the initial shock and an overwhelming desire to ask for an asylum in a craft store (growing up we had nothing even close to that!), I just couldn’t pass by the plain glass ornaments and a kit for decorating them.

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Though I always liked drawing and painting, I’ve never been good at it. But I had that idea in my head… If I were to paint a window on a plain glass ornament, it would naturally have glass in it and will be see-through. So I painted a cat sitting in a window and looking at the pine tree outside. That tree I painted on the opposite side of the ball.

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My First Ornament

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Then I kept adding details – a Christmas tree with gifts under it, a TV, a vase with flowers, a painting on the wall, snow, trees – and ended up with half of the ornament representing inside of the house and half – outside.

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I was very happy with the result but my creative fervor hadn’t subsided: I wanted more! So I bought more ornaments and brought them, the one I’d created (as inspiration) and the kit to the office; and persuaded 10-12 of my co-workers to participate. The most enthusiastic of us made 2-3 ornaments each. We got a small tree and decorated it with all 20 ornaments we created. The tree itself was reminiscent of a Charlie Brown Christmas Tree but we were extremely pleased with the decorations – and thus the tradition was born.

These are all the ornaments we created that first year:

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From the next year and going forward the tradition was to make new ornaments, put them on the best spots on the tree and then add all the ornaments lovingly saved from the previous years. Around Thanksgiving co-workers would start asking me: “What are we going to do for the ornaments this year?” Over the next several years we went through many different mediums – wood, metal, plaster, foam and felt, every next year involving more and more people. Then I decided to go the second round (for the new co-workers it was their first) – again glass, wood and metal. And being a multi-cultural company, we introduced many not-that-christmas-specific elements, such as menorah or pop-culture-themed ornaments.

Taking you through about 200 ornaments created in those years would be probably too much, so for the illustration here are just the ornaments I made using the materials I mentioned:

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Since most of the ornaments were pre-made as something holiday-traditional, for a while we were limiting ourselves to decorating and adorning them with ribbons, glitter and sequins. But then we started looking “outside the box” transforming the blanks into something new, not the way they were intended to be decorated:

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Thirteen years later we decorate a 9-feet Christmas tree choosing our favorites from more than 300 ornaments. Some people who created them had left the company years ago; some has just finished their ornament No 13 (+). As you can imagine, many of the ornaments bring good memories as we hang them on the tree, remembering who and when created each of them.

The Riddle

For the last three years we went even further in the creative approach: we would choose some more or less uniform object and use it as a blank canvas for our creativity. Look at the ornaments: all of them within each of the three sets were created from the same object.

2013

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2014

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2015

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Can you guess what was used as a medium for each year?

The Draw

It’s a Holiday Draw so to be entered you do not need to guess correctly. Actually, you do not need to guess at all – if you do not feel like doing that (and vice-versa: you can guess even if you’re not interested in the draw).

To be in the draw, all you need to do is to tell me: should Rusty pick your name in a random draw, which one from the list below would you like to get?

Bottega Veneta Bottega Veneta Eau de Parfum (0.25 oz/7.5 ml mini bottle)

Serge Lutens Laine de Verre (0.16 oz/5 ml mini bottle)

Jasques Saint Pres Isa (0.5 oz/15 ml travel bottle)

Serge Lutens Chergui (0.16 oz/5 ml mini bottle)

Jo Malone Peone & Blush Suede (0.3 oz/9ml travel bottle)

The draw is open to everybody (with the usual fine print of knowing your country’s postal restrictions, possible loss/damage in transit, etc.) until the end of 2015. I’ll announce results as soon as I manage to interest Rusty in helping me with choosing the winner.

Rusty and Holiday Draw 2015

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Merry Christmas to all my friends and readers!

 

Images: my own