A Postcard from Undina: From New York with love

From NY with love

When I saw these billboards just off Times Square I felt some significance in the fact that these were for two my favorite TV shows at the moment, one of which takes place in California where I live and the second one – in New York where I spent the last week. I love-love-love New York! Once I unpack and spend some quality time with Rusty I’ll write up some of the perfume-related impressions from my wonderful vacation.

How have you been? Do you watch any TV shows? If yes, what are your favorite ones?

 

Undina

 

Image: my own

Laughs, Lemmings, Loves – Episode 24

 

Last week was unexpectedly hot. I think it was much warmer than most days during the summer. It was almost nice (for a change). And it helped to figure out a heating/cooling problem at our new office, which is nice since they’ll hopefully fix it before it gets really cold outside.

In addition to good weather this week was full of love. I mean, Loves: there were more posts than usual about my favorite perfumes.

Lemmings, Laughs, Loves

Lemmings

Madeleine (guest author at AustralianPerfumeJunkies) created some lemmings by her review of Perle de Mousse by Bertrand Duchafour for Ann Gerard: Gently, you arch your back, loosen your hair from its tight chignon, smooth your crisp white shirt and remove your heels, delighting in the sensation of tingly grass blades on your soles. You lie back on the soft cotton rug, reach over to lay your head on your man’s shoulder. His shirt gently caresses your face, you smell the gentlest whiff of his citrus cologne. Your eyes close and you drift towards sleep in the soft yellow light.

 

Laughs

If you missed it you just have to see Lenier’s (scents memory) post OBSESSION OR COMPULSION.

 

Loves

Steve (The Scented Hound) is one of those men who braves to wear of of my most favorite perfumes – Portrait of a Lady by Frederic Malle: With the name, I would have thought that this was going to be an over the top big floral.  What a surprise.   It start off very masculine and medicinal.  I had no idea where this was going.  After a while, out comes a very dusty and understated rose with black current along with a tempered cedar woody note.

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Freddie (Smellythoughts) reviews another big love of mine – Ubar by Amouage. I think I wouldn’t be able to recognize this perfume by this description but isn’t it great how differently we smell things? […] opens with a tenacious floral blast – a sweet/sour civet cut underneath straight away makes the huge florals fly off the skin in a powerful musk cloud. A sweet aldehydic orange turns into an almost bitter grapefruit, loud and mouth-watering but far too “perfumey” to be considered a “fresh citrus opening”.

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Birgit (Olfactoria’s Travels) have a favorite color (and perfume) in common: Beige is easy to wear and doesn’t require any kind of effort, but smells very put together and refined, just like the most comfortable garments do.

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Portia (AustralianPerfumeJunkies) reviews my most favorite perfume from Tom Ford’s Private Blends collection: Arabian Wood by Tom Ford should be on your “Must Try List” because in this day & age I am surprised at how well he has sculpted a Next Generation Chypre, reminiscent of some of the greatest but so modern and wearable. For my take on this perfume read Weeklong Test Drive, Episode 4.3: Noir de Noir, Oud Wood and Arabian Wood by Tom Ford.

Entertaining Statistics: September, 2012

 

September was warm and pleasant but autumn is already in the air: I start looking at the direction of favorite amber perfumes.

I was swapping a lot of samples with Perfumeland friends so between that and several new releases from favorite brands my testing went up significantly. I included some of the personal stats in the post but this month I decided again to entertain you with some calculations I ran based on Birgit’s (Olfactoria’s Travels) recent Bottle of the Month article (and a generous giveaway). She asked participants to name a favorite flower and a perfume based on it. Picture below is a graphical representation of the choices.

Favorite flowers in perfumes

For those who prefers numbers (flower – number of votes): Rose – 20; Tuberose – 11; Jasmine – 10; Iris – 10 (it was my choice and it correlates to my personal stats numbers for notes below); Lily – 7; Gardenia – 7; Orange blossom – 4; Lilac – 3; Osmanthus – 3; Lily-of-the-valley – 3; Violet – 2; Narcissus – 2; Hyacinth – 2; Tulip – 2; Carnation – 2; other flowers – 11.

 

Quick September stats:

Numbers in parenthesis are comparison to the previous month’s numbers.

* Different perfumes worn1: 25 (+3) from 18 (+5) brands on 29 (+4) occasions;

* Different perfumes tested252 (+28) from 25 (+10) brands on 60 (+33) occasions;

* Perfumes I tried for the first time: 22 (+13);

* Perfume house I wore most often: Guerlain;

* Perfume house I tested the most: Dior and Guerlain;

* Most popular notes (only from perfumes I chose to wear): top – (not counting bergamot) neroli, galbanum and orange; middle – (not counting rose and jasmine) iris root and ylang ylang (stays
the same for the last several months
); base – musk, vetiver and sandalwood;

 

Are you surprised by the choices others made for a favorite flower?

 

1 For the testing I apply a perfume to one area on my arms easily available for the repetitive sniffing. But, most likely, I’m the only one who can smell it. I can test two, sometimes even more perfumes at the same time.

2 When I wear a perfume I apply it to at least three-four points and usually I plan to spend at least 4-8 hours with the same scent so I’m prepared to re-apply if the original application wears off.

 

Image: my own

Laughs, Lemmings, Loves – Episode 23

 

First week in the new office was… interesting. We’re getting settled down, figuring out new quirks and trying to find positive things to counteract inevitable drawbacks.

The definite improvement to my office life is a nice view from the window: all those small dots on the picture below are birds (though they do look a little like lemmings).

Most likely I missed to link to some posts that fall into one of my categories but here are those that caught my attention. If you came across anything funny please share – I can use some extra laughs.

LLL Birds

Lemmings

I really-really-really want to try perfumes from new By Kilian’s collection In the Garden of Good and Evil. It seems the brand is taking a different marketing approach with this collection: you can already pre-order it from Luckyscent but I still haven’t read a single review for these perfumes. Octavian (1000 Fragrances) hints that he’s tried and liked them but not much information even there.

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Victoria (Bois de Jasmin) made Serge Lutens Une Voix Noire sound very appealing: It has a surprising combination of softness and warmth. Its presence is generous, but it’s not overwhelming. It’s dramatic without being heady or dense. Une Voix Noire feels velvety the moment you put it on, and it gracefully moves from one stage to another. Frankly, if Lutens said that he was inspired
by ballerina Maya Plisetskaya’s Black Swan, rather than by Lady Day, I would have believed him.

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Freddie (Smellythoughts) reviews one of Annick Goutal’sperfumes that I haven’t tried yet and now I want to – Sables: Its aura and sillage is wonderfully ever-changing, flickering between a fragrant curry (but not so literally it could be mistaken for food residue), and sweetly spiced amber. Bone dry and dusty in the end, its power is still impressive – lasting hours and hours.

 

Laughs

Most of you have probably read already Meg’s (parfumieren) dialog with spammers. But if you missed it – here’s a link. It’s funny and sad at the same time. I always wish people would have directed their efforts to something more productive than writing spam-bots and coming up with deceptive phrases for them.

 

Loves

Michael (From Top to Bottom) expresses exactly my feelings about Sonoma Scent Studio‘s perfumes.

Affordable Luxury?

 

Now and then I read complaints about perfumes cost, especially when it comes to the subject of packaging. At some point I was one of those people. I won’t spend time now looking for comments I might have made a year or two ago but I remember having thoughts along the line “those stupid bottles and boxes” and “who needs them”. But since then I considered different aspects of it and I’ve changed my mind.

Agonist Liquid Cristal

Perfume isn’t a necessity: it’s a luxury item. There are many other luxury goods out there – shoes, bags, clothes, jewelry, cars and yachts to name but a few. Most of us cannot afford most of those things and we accept that. So why do we get angry when a luxury perfume brand, which positions itself as such, pours perfumes in handmade glass bottles, makes special tops for them or puts them into nice wooden boxes and then charges accordingly?

MDCI Collectible Stoppers

People are buying designer clothes for their pets – why not to buy a nice display stand or a quality travel case for your favorite expensive perfume? People buy useless figurines and decorative boxes for their dressers – why not to adorn vanity tables with a collectible bottle stopper or a beautiful lacquered perfume box? And as long as there are people who are willing to pay for those special items why not to create them and sell?

Puredistance Leather Case

As much as we, perfumistas, would love to have in our collections every perfume that attracted our attention we know it’s not possible – even if all of them were in the discount stores’ price range. So why do we get cranky if we cannot afford or justify for ourselves buying an expensive bottle of perfume, especially when perfume itself is available in the refill container? Is it because, after all, juice isn’t the only thing that matters and we do want to get a nice(r) bottle but are not ready to pay extra for it?

By Kilian Box

Have you ever heard from any perfumista “I love this perfume, it is my absolute favorite but it’s too expensive and I cannot afford it”? I haven’t. I think it’s because perfume is a luxury item. You do not go into collecting luxury items if you have no discretionary income. And if you have any you can choose on what to spend it. If you find a perfume that you love – absolutely, unconditionally and forever – you’ll be able to buy it eventually with money saved by not buying other bottles, samples and decants. And if you do not love it leave it – in all its nicety and glorious packaging – to those who do or have a bigger budget for “nice to have” items.

Xerjoff Murano Glass Bottle

At the same time I constantly read about cheap looking and poorly made bottles. Many reviewers are wishing for a better correlation between a quality of a scent, its price and presentation. So where is the golden mean?

Armani Prive Golden Bottle

Images: from respective brands websites

Laughs, Lemmings, Loves – Episode 22

 

I had a really hectic week because my office is moving so you can imagine all the packing added to the regular work. Friday was the last day at the old place so a note to all of my correspondents: the address you have is no longer active.

I still managed to read most of the posts on my Reading List though I was on a lighter side with commenting. Here are posts that created some lemmings, made me laugh or reviewed perfumes that I love.

Moving Day

 

Lemmings

Lanier (Scents Memory): I have to say that I enjoy Diptyque and I am still exploring their line but when I smelled Volutes I flipped! Sold to the tall guy with the red shirt! Lane noticed that on my skin it smelled very masculine yet on Hilary it was wonderfully feminine. This amazing transformative aspect of the scent by this point in the evening did not surprise me.

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Christos (Memory of Scent) combines his childhood memories with a review of Serge Lutens’ perfume and it makes that perfume sound very appealing to me: Now after all these years rediscovering the combination of sweet milk and rubber strikes strange chords. Douce Amère is way too sweet for my tastes but every time I wear it I get this nostalgic feeling of sheltered childhood. Soft clouds of fuzzy cotton wrap around me, I feel the warm sensation of snoozing in a dimly lit room knowing that someone is watching over me.

 

Laughs

Lanier (Scents Memory): Fumehead and blogger Lanier Smith avoids the press leaving his home as news breaks of cologne heist in San Francisco. When questioned Smith snapped “Why don’t you ask John Robie where HE was last night?”

 

Loves

Meg (parfumieren) offers a lovely and funny take on one of my favorite L’Artisan‘s perfumes – Tea for Two: Well, it’s spicy. Comforting. It makes me think of wintertime, all nasty sleet and slippery ice outside while indoors you’re safe and sound and WARM […]

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Mel (My Life In Rouge) reviews one of my most favorite perfumes Chanel No 19: this unique iris ‘cold’ scent exudes elegance and ‘assertiveness’… in other words, a perfect companion for the ice queen in you.

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Ari (Scents of Self): Trayee is a heartbreakingly beautiful incense scent, made full and rich with blackcurrent and a fruity jasmine note. Y’all know that I don’t like jasmine and I don’t like fruity, so it is a true testament to Duchafour’s skills that he was able to render these notes wearable and even attractive to me. For my take on all three perfumes in the line read Three Pieces of Neela Vermeire’s India Puzzle.

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Portia (Australian Perfume Junkies) isn’t sure if my favorite Ineke‘s Field Notes From Paris will become a FBW: I really love the opening and the journey is a good one with highs, lows and interesting things happening, I want to be madly enraptured because the work is so good and the price is not outrageous either. Field Notes From Paris is the kind of niche offering that we wish the big boys would emulate, and the bottle itself is gorgeous.

 

You say ‘Tomato’, I say ‘Leather’

 

When people who had been living in the same country for the most part of their lives and hadn’t traveled much move to a new and unfamiliar place, it’s a common situation that, at least in the beginning, they try not to embrace new environment but to adapt it to their needs and expectations. And they get frustrated when new environment pushes back.

One of my complaints after I moved to the U.S. was a taste of tomatoes. I remembered how great tomatoes that my grandmother grew in her garden were. I could eat them as is or with a little salt just biting from the fruit. Of course, at Grandma’s those were special variety tomatoes grown with love and care. But even those tomatoes that we would pick up at farms to where we were taken from schools and colleges with some strange notion to teach us to work were great.

Tomatos

With the experience of living in the new place comes the understanding that sometimes if you can’t find something that was so popular in another country it’s because there is no demand for it; if you do not like something, there’s a chance that you’re getting that something of not the best quality; and if something isn’t as good as you remember it to be, it might be because you are not in your twenties any more.

So at some point I persuaded myself that I was just buying wrong tomatoes and switched to local heirloom tomatoes during the season. Those tasted better but still not exactly how I remembered ripe tomatoes from a vine. “I’m not twenty anymore; tomatoes are just fine…” – I told myself and stopped thinking about it… until I read this article. I wasn’t that far off after all: American tomatoes suck.

What does it have to do with perfumes? – are probably asking those of you who made it to this point.

For a while cluster tomatoes were my answer to the lost tomato quest. They weren’t much better than any other variety I tried but at least the scent of the vine, on which they came, reminded me of those wonderfully flavorful tomatoes from my childhood. And when I tried this new perfume it reminded me of the scent of a tomato stem.

Cognoscenti Tomato Leather

Scent No.16 Tomato Leather by Cognoscenti – created in 2012 by Dannielle Sergent, notes include tomato leaf, clary sage, linden blossom, leather, black agarwood, benzoin, frankincense, myrrh and tobacco. I don’t know what is that with different companies and the numbers, but, in my opinion, it’s an awful idea to name perfumes with numbers if you’re not Chanel. I’m glad Cognoscenti decided to go with a subtitle for at least two of their perfumes.

Other than tomato leaves (stem), I do not smell any of the notes listed. I’m not saying there are no other notes there, the perfume has some complexity but the notes are blended in such a way that I do not recognize even those that I usually can easily pick out – linden, agarwood and tobacco. I smell something that I attribute to the “leather” part of the name but leather in Tomato Leather doesn’t remind me any other leathers I’m closely familiar with.

Tomato Leather is a truly unisex perfume: there is nothing daring in wearing it either by a man or a woman. I wonder if it has any sweetness to it: I cannot smell it at all but there might be something that my nose doesn’t register.

Cognoscenti launched its line just a couple of months ago during the First Artisan Fragrance Salon in San Francisco; and recently they’ve added an online store where you can buy samples* for all three perfumes from the line. You can buy bottles as well but I assume you’d like to test them first.

Cognoscenti Perfumes

I like almost everything about Cognoscenti – the reasonable number of perfumes in the initial collection, design of their bottles, packaging and samples availability. “Almost” because I wish they had smaller bottles – 30 ml (or even less). I think that Cognoscenti’s perfumes are very interesting and unusual. I’m just not sure that I need 50 ml of any of the two scents that I liked. But I’m tempted because I like them and would love to wear from time to time. I’ll see what to do once my samples are gone.

 

Images: tomatoes – my friend M., perfumes – my own.

* Disclaimer: I got my samples from the brand at the Fragrance Salon not for the review; recently I won the random draw for another sample set at Cafleure Bon where you can read Tama’s review for the line. I haven’t been approached by the brand or compensated in any way.

UPDATE: Now the brand offers 5 ml travel bottles

 

A Postcard from Undina: Just a Weekend

 

Rusty and Bouquet

I had a very pleasant weekend: visited friends; ate my first s’more ever (you have to grow up with that tradition to like them); tested seven  perfumes (nothing earth-shattering); cooked nice dinner for friends at my place; wore my favorite Guerlain Cruel Gardenia (got compliments on it) and spent quality time with Rusty (and my vSO,of course).

 

How was your weekend?

 

Undina

 

Image: my own

Surrealism and my Surreal Perfume Perception

 

Recently I visited the exhibition Man Ray | Lee Miller: Partners in Surrealism.

The exhibition covered three distinct periods. The first period – time before 21 years old Lee Miller, an established model and an apprentice photographer, met and became a student and a lover of Man Ray, a well-known at the time avant-garde photographer and painter, seventeen years her senior. The second period – their three years together in photographs, paintings and “rayographs.” And the last one – their works after she left him and they went on with their lives.

While it wasn’t the most interesting exposition, I was very pleased to find several works for which Lee Miller took pictures of Guerlain’s shop front. Two better known – photographs Exploding Hand and Self-portrait, Reflection in the window of Guerlain (see below) and several more from the same roll that I wasn’t able to find online (with an actual Guerlain store front).

Lee Miller Self Portrait - Reflection In Guerlain Window

Disclaimer: I’m not even an amateur in art appreciation; I’m nobody, so the following part is just my layman’s opinion.

I thought Lee Miller’s photographs were very good especially those that she made as a war photographer. I liked some of Ray’s photographs (though that exhibition doesn’t do him justice) and was appalled by most of the “paintings” presented: it’s not art! Those are not good even as decorative pieces. The only excuse for showing them is that whoever curated the exhibition just couldn’t get enough good items and had to use fillers. To the same purpose, I think, there were some works of other contemporary artists from their circle. Picasso’s portrait of Lee Miller attracted my attention and prompted a comment addressed to my vSO: “This is art. He knew how to paint and then chose to do it this way. Ray Miller’s works look like he just couldn’t do it any better.” (I am like that every time I come across something that I refuse to consider art – no matter on whose authority a piece in question got in which museum/exhibition. For some reason I feel very passionate about such issues)

Picasso - Lee Miller Portrait

I tried to find those pictures as postcards in the museum shop. For some reason I wanted to buy those prints with Guerlain sign. My efforts were futile. But as I was fumbling through postcards I smelled a perfume on another customer and liked it. I complimented her on it and asked what it was. “Paloma Picasso” was her answer.

Paloma Picasso by Paloma Picasso, created in 1984 by Francis Bocris under guidance of the eldest daughter of Pablo Picasso, notes vary by the source so I’ll go with NST: yields hyacinth, citrus, coriander, angelica, cloves, rose, mimosa, ylang ylang, jasmine, patchouli, honey, civet, oakmoss, sandalwood and vetiver.

I saw Paloma Picasso thousand times. It was ubiquitous in every online and many B&M discounter stores. I could describe the bottle design if you were to ask me a month or ten years ago. Yet that moment at the museum shop I realized that I’d never even smelled it. Don’t ask me why. Ok, ask me.

Looking back I recollect that, based on the packaging (I know, I know – very deep of me), I thought it was a heavy oriental perfume, something like YSL Opium, so I didn’t think I would like it – and never tried it.

That weekend while writing one of the LLL posts I almost added the Looking For section to ask if anybody could spare a sample of Paloma Picasso – that was how much I liked it on the women in the museum. But suddenly I remembered that in one of the duty-free miniature sets that I got as a gift there was a mini of Paloma Picasso EdP.

Do you remember a “deer scene” from My Cousin Vinny?

Mona Lisa Vito: Whoa. You’re gonna shoot a deer?
Vinny Gambini: I don’t know. I suppose. I mean, I’m a man’s man, I could go deer hunting.
Mona Lisa Vito: A sweet, innocent, harmless, leaf-eating, doe-eyed little deer.
Vinny Gambini: Hey Lisa, I’m not gonna go out there just to wimp out, you know. I mean, the guy will lose respect for me, would you rather have that?
[Lisa gets up, walks over to the bathroom and shuts the door]
Vinny Gambini: What about these pants I got on, you think they’re O.K.?
Mona Lisa Vito: [comes out of the bathroom] Imagine you’re a deer. You’re prancing along, you get thirsty, you spot a little brook, you put your little deer lips down to the cool clear water… BAM! A f** bullet rips off part of your head! Your brains are laying on the ground in little bloody pieces! Now I ask ya. Would you give a f**k what kind of pants the son of a bitch who shot you was wearing?

That “BAM!” (you have to watch that short clip from the link above if you do not have a visual image of Marisa Tomei’s gesture in your head) was how I felt the first time I applied Paloma EdP. It is a very strong and very loud perfume. I love what I smell but I’m not sure I can actually wear it: I feel almost overwhelmed just testing Paloma from a dab mini on my wrist. But I’m so impressed by it and so surprised that I avoided it for so long that I plan to try to wear it (meaning – I’ll carefully apply it in 2-3 spots while having a shower within my reach).

Paloma Picasso perfume

For real reviews go to Bois de Jasmine, The Non-Blonde or Perfume Shrine.

 

Image: Self-portrait from here; Picasso from here; perfume – my own.

Laughs, Lemmings, Loves – Episode 21

 

Last week was a little strange because the long weekend (Labor Day) abruptly turned into a very busy week at work. And then I read Carol’s (bloody frida) post about cataloging and sorting samples and spent Sunday weekend catching up on my samples instead of posting this weekly round-up. Do you think I’m done with those samples?

I read almost all posts from my Reading List but I think I was more distracted than usually and might have missed some of the articles that made me laugh, reviewed my favorite perfumes or conjured lemmings. Here are posts that I didn’t miss.

Lemmings Laughs Loves

Lemmings

Ines (All I am – a redhead) reviews Santal Majuscule by Serge Lutens: warm, spicy, boozy fruit with the general feeling of seriousness and darkness (there’s not frivolity to this fruit as the feeling is dry and not sparkling and happy) with cocoa underscoring the darkness and warmth and sandalwood making you swoon. Now I know it’s there, I can smell the rose appear and the fruitiness slowly disappear.

Laughs

Natalie (Another Perfume Blog): Appropriately, the full page feature on Dot is a hot mess of garish colors and plants that look carnivorous. I like the truth in advertising, which says: Watch out; this fragrance will eat you and everyone in a 10-foot radius.

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I think everybody has read Arielle’s (Scents of Self) skit on Chanel Coco Noir creation but if somehow you missed it I highly recommend it: whether you liked Coco Noir or not you’ll get a chuckle out of her post.

Loves

Susan (Eiderdown Press) reviews one of my all-time favorite perfumes Petite Cherie by Annick Goutal: This fragrance is like a butterfly kiss or fairy wings or the peal of laughter from the cutest little girl you’ve ever seen: pure, light refreshment and much too fine a thing to be pinned down. Its fizzy top notes smell like an irresistible spritzer of one’s imagining—pear nectar and a splash of rose water added to a glass of Perrier—and are so gently effervescent that it is no surprise that what follows is a skin scent so quiet, you might assume it has floated off into the stratosphere. If you want my story read Weeklong Test Drive, Episode 1.6: Petite Cherie by Annick Goutal.

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Portia (AustralianPerfumeJunkies) reviews my favorite New Look 1947 by Dior: […] it opens with a big flashy and fleshy burst of white floral, I love to just stand and drink in the warm aromatic glamour that lasts about 10-20 minutes. All the accords are already there but the tuberose is at this point king. It’s like a fantasy fragrance, all the good stuff without being heady, overwhelming or an oxygen stealing white floral screamer (which I also love BTW) so those of you who are repelled by such overt displays will be thrilled.