Entertaining Statistics: August, 2012

 

August was nice: we had several hot days and the rest of the month was on the cooler side. But perfume wear/test-wise it was a strange month for me: as I was trying to figure out if perfumes contributed to my persistent cough (I think they didn’t) I took a break from any perfumes for a while; in addition to that, at least several perfumes I wore during the month had such staying power that testing anything else the same day was out of question. As a result, I both tested and wore fewer perfumes.

So I decided to entertain you with another type of statistics data.

Do you remember the fun question Birgit of Olfactoria’s Travels asked last year: Guerlain or Chanel? and the results we compiled? So when last Monday Birgit asked to choose ten “deserted island perfumes”, I got curious to see if answers to this question correlated to the previous results. But when I started I couldn’t stop just there.

Stats August 2012

Our deserted island will be populated by at least 45 perfumistas, though there was some dissension as to the climate choice: concerns were voiced that not all favorite perfumes were tropic-friendly.

Future settlers named 310 unique perfumes from 91 brands (when a concentration or vintage were mentioned I counted perfumes as unique). See the chart above for the total number of selected perfumes for top 15 brands.

Two most popular perfumes were Guerlain Shalimar and Frederic Malle Carnal Flower11 voices each; Chanel No 5 got 6 votes (including one for parfum); Amouage Lyric, Chanel Coromandel, Lancome Cuir de Lancome, Serge Lutens Ambre Sultan and Chanel No 19 (counting EdP, EdT, parfum and vintage) got 5 voices each. 79 perfumes were named by more than one perfumista. It means that we’ll have 231 unrepeated perfumes to enjoy ourselves or swap – not bad for a group of 45.

Only 4 out of 10 perfumes on my list were unique (Climat by Lancôme, Tiempe Passate by Antonia’s Flowers, Vert pour Madame by DSH Perfumes and Sweet Milk by Jo Malone). Only Chanel No 19 though was among the most popular selections. The other five were on two to three people’s lists.

Deserted Island Perfumes

I wonder how good my swapping chances would be.

Laughs, Lemmings, Loves – Episode 20

 

Last week I took a mini-vacation. It’s amazing how within an hour one can travel from bright and hot vineyards of Sonoma to an overshadowed and cool trails of Muir Woods.

Somehow this week I didn’t come across any really funny posts (please share if you did) but all other categories are represented.

Lemmings Laughs Loves

Lemmings

Lucas (Chemist in the Bottle): Rose of Rose Anonyme is a specific rose, hard to compare with other rosy perfume created so far. It smells like you took a fresh, deep red rose and mixed it with an older, almost black rose petals, sprinkled it with a little bit of rose water and combined it with traditional rose potpourri. It’s a rose of hundred faces.

 

Loves

Steve (The Scented Hound) wrote great reviews for two of my favorite perfumes: Perfect for today’s rainy weather, Field Notes from Paris does remind me of exactly what Ineke was trying to convey; “sweet-scented Paris afternoons, life measured out in coffee spoons.”  Perfect for hanging out in your favorite sweater and jeans on a Sunday morning while recuperating from your all too fun Saturday night and A*Men Pure Havane opens with a wonderful sweet tobacco ladened honey.  It’s warm and delicious and oh so edible; you just want to lick it off of your skin.  This could easily have gone over the top, but it doesn’t as the labdanum and amber mixed with the vanilla and cocoa leaves this scent grounded.

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Suzanne (Eiderdown Press) paid a beautiful tribute to one of my beloved perfumes: Wearing Vera Wang eau de parfum, and yes, you can strip me of my perfumista card, but it is what I’m craving.  Maybe it’s not the kind of fragrance that inspires one to write anything deep or meaningful about it, but it’s intensely floral and makes an überly feminine statement that feels both polished and dreamy (my Vera Wang story: What Happens in Vegas… Part II: Confession of a Sillage Monster)

 

Leftovers

Ines (All I am – a redhead) tries to help to promote Croatia. Follow the link and take a look at great pictures of her recent vacation.

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Cheryl has moved Perfumed Letters from Blogger to WordPress. Visit her new home to say hi.

A Postcard from Undina: From Sonoma with LOVE

From Sonoma With Love

This is a view from the deck of one of my favorite wineries –  Paradise Ridge . It’s a great place to visit: they offer wine tasting (we like their wines enough to join their wine club) as well as great place for picnics with breathtaking views and a periodically changing collection of sculptures on the grounds for you to see, touch, climb on and take pictures of (like the one – LOVE – above).

Undina

 

Image: my own

Laughs, Lemmings, Loves – Episode 19

 

Since I skipped last week’s round-up this “issue” has posts from the last two weeks. But if your time behaves like mine (meaning disappears before I realize where it’s gone) you might have missed some of them.

So here we go: posts that made me laugh, created lemmings or reviewed perfumes that I love.

Lemmings, Laughs, Loves

 

Lemmings

Sergey Borisov (Fragrantica) describes the new release from PuredistanceOpardu: This perfume is a beatifully nostalgic, as it was said. To me it smells as an armful of fresh and wet lilacs, with a tender powdery floral heart. The first general impression of a lilac bouquet falls into nuances of heliotrope and orris, – an echo of Caron powder, fresh violet, heady jasmine, hyacinth and fresh green lily-of-the-valley. I also found a trace of rose petals found between pages of a romantic book. I agree with their press information, the perfume is hypnotizing. I really-really-really want to try this one.

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From NST new fragrance announcement: DjHenné is like a warm shadow. A leathery veil of golden wheat and myrrh, that offers protection from the scorching with delicate mint leaves and seringa blossoms.

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Ari (Scents of Self): […] it’s great. Better than I could have hoped. I loathe fruity fragrances, and you can bet your bottom dollar that I’ll be buying a bottle of this. Blackberry & Bay opens with the deliciously savory combination of bay leaves and grapefruit. There’s a lot of grapefruit in here, and it does an perfect job of keeping the (very realistic) blackberry note tart rather than overly sweet.

 

Laughs

Lanier (scents memory): … it is like smelling Freon mixed with sewage from Tijuana that has been fermenting in an old cooler for about six weeks in the Mojave Desert. I have passed homeless men on the street that smell better than this travesty. Follow the link to see which perfume evoked such strong feelings.

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Birgit (Olfactoria’s Travels): Lancome La Vie est belle: No, it ain’t! (belle, that is.) I hate this. But that doesn’t come as a surprise, because I already know it. This is Coco Mademoiselle, Flowerbomb and any other fruity patchouli ever created (why, oh why?). Iris gourmand? Oh please, berry patchouli with the power to kill small animals and the half-life of Uranium.

 

Loves

Portia (AustralianPerfumeJunkies) reviews one of my favorite Ormonde Jayne’s perfumes ChampacaIt’s now 8+ hours, we’ve been for dinner, watched a movie at home on TV and I’m finishing up my post, there is now a slightly musky smell but it’s a sweet sweat, the myrrh and still, amazingly, a little of that sexy neroli; but you have to be close enough to…. (Don’t pay attention to all the personal praises: it’s the perfume talking)

 

Leftovers

Victoria (Bois de Jasmin): If you’ve ever plotted to mail order a coveted Serge Lutens bell jar from Paris, you’ll be happy to know that starting this month, you can simply order the perfumes from Barneys in New York.

“H” for Hothouse Flower by Ineke

 

Say “rose,” “peony,” “jasmine,” “lily-of-the-valley” or even “tulip” – and I immediately imagine both a flower and its scent. I hear “gardenia,” and I draw a blank: I’m not sure I’ve ever seen it in nature, and I can’t imagine how it smells. I saw gardenia petals at the Bouquets to Art exhibition (pictures two and tree in the post) but that was the closest I’ve ever come to the real thing.

Probably because I have no preconception of gardenia I like many gardenia-centered perfumes – Cruel Gardenia by Guerlain, Gardenia by Jo Loves and White Flowers by Yosh. These perfumes do not smell similar to me, so I’m still not sure how close to a gardenia flower these are.

Hothouse Flower by Ineke

For the first time I smelled new gardenia soliflore perfume Hothouse Flower by Ineke in July of this year at the First Artisan Fragrance Salon in San Francisco. It smelled nice, but I was so overwhelmed by everything I tried this day that I knew I wouldn’t be making it any justice. It was the end of the day, and they were out of samples but Ineke Ruhland was very kind to make one for me. Since then I kept testing it.

Hothouse Flower notes include Earl Grey tea, green foliage, cypress, absinthe, gardenia, galbanum, fig, frankincense, guaiac wood, musk and corn silk.

Hothouse Flower smells green. But it’s not No 19 or Silences type of green. It’s more like a green apple green. It’s floral but not sweet – at least to my nose. It’s fresh but not ozonic. Hothouse Flower stays on my skin for at least five hours gradually fading out but not changing much. Nevertheless, it doesn’t seem overly simple.

I’ve mentioned it before: Ineke has a great sample set. For $25 (shipping included) you’ll get the first seven perfumes of the line. Plus, once Hothouse Flower is released in September, they will send you a sample of it. Plus, you can redeem the price of the set against a full bottle purchase later. But wait, there’s more! If you call in the next… OK, just kidding. It’s not a commercial, I just feel really excited about this release. I think I’ll need a bottle of Hothouse Flower.

Ineke Delux Sample Collection

Images: my own

A Postcard from Undina: ZZ Top at the Mountain Winery

 

Last week was surprisingly quiet: no new lemmings, no reviews for my favorite perfumes and nothing amusing enough to warrant a LLL post. So I decided it was a good time to introduce a new category – A Postcard From Undina. From time to time I plan to publish a picture of something I like, experienced or saw – with some notes from me or just a “blank” postcard.

  

40 years, the same three guys, the same three chords.
Billy Gibbons

ZZ Top at the Mountain Winery, August 2012

It was a very enjoyable August night at a beautiful venue with rock legends.

Wish you were there.

Undina 

 

 

Image: my own

Know-how: Decanting, Labeling, Packing and Shipping

This is a public service article. I’m sure that all experienced perfumistas (meaning “my regular readers”) know all that and then some. But I decided to put together in one post information I wish I had when I started sharing my perfumes with others (not that long ago). So for most of my readers it’s a post with pictures of Rusty helping me to illustrate my points.

If you plan decanting as a business there will be completely different rules, this post probably won’t help you.

Decanting supplies

Decanting Supplies

You might find useful to get 1-2 ml dab vials (for sharing your small samples, extraits or perfumes of which you do not have enough); 3-4 ml sprays for samples; 5 ml and 10 ml sprays for bigger decants. Pipettes might be useful if you plan to decant a splash bottle into many decants. Otherwise just get some straws from a coffee shop: it’s less convenient but it will do the job.

I know that some perfumistas prefer plastic bottles: they are cheaper and are safer to ship but if I have a choice I won’t go for a plastic bottle. I don’t know that for a fact but I’m afraid that plastic will dissolve a little and contaminate my sample.

Decanting: Rusty and Pipette

There are many places to buy bottles for decants. They vary by selection, prices and minimum order size.

Best Bottles: has better prices but require minimum $50 order (plus shipping; please note that shipping to a commercial address is cheaper).

Accessories for Fragrances: almost twice as expensive as those from Best Bottles but they allow smaller orders.

1 ml, 3 ml (with screw-on spray pump) and 10 ml are good at both sites, 5 ml decants, in my opinion, are nicer from Accessories for Fragrances.

Decanting: Rusty and Vials

If you have other favorite places for decanting supplies (and especially in Europe) – please share.

Labeling

Labels are important. You do not think about them when they are alright but when they go wrong it might be devastating. Read Steve’s (The Scented Hound) story – though it’s a lot of fun to do a detective work guessing which perfume you’re testing, in general it’s better to avoid those situations.

There are many ways of making labels – from the simplest hand-written labels supplied with decanting vials, through printed on a printer (I saw some fancy ones with brand fonts/logos reproductions) all the way to those printed on label makers (functionality of some of those is just a mind-boggling).

If you do paper labels, it’s a good practice to put a transparent tape over it to prevent smudging during the shipping leakage or further use.

Decanting: Rusty and Labeling

I use a simple label maker similar to this one but I’m too lazy to learn how to do more styles (I got it used without documentation) so I just chose the font size and stopped there.

Preventing leakage

There is an assumption you should make: if a package with your decants flies it will leak. There are a couple of things you can do to prevent/minimize that.

After you make sure that a vial/atomizer is closed as well as it can be you’ll need a tape. Many perfumistas are using an electrical tape and it works just great. Vanessa (Bonkers about Perfume) wrote the Ode to it: The Unsung Hero Of The Swap Scene – Electrical Insulation Tape.

Decanting: Rusty and Tape

But black color bothered me so I found an alternative and for a long time I was using colored vinyl tape. The only bad thing about those tapes is that when a perfume leaks a little and you do not take the tape off after it arrives the tape might leave some sticky residue on the bottle.

Recently, thanks to Ruth Kaminski from Facebook Fragrance Friends Group, I’ve discovered an even better solution – a parafilm. If you’re not in a hurry, you can watch for the price drop (I bought it for ~$18). I suspect that package will serve me for years: all it takes is a really small piece of parafilm per a decant. You just cut it, peel a protecting paper, stretch it warming in your fingers and wrap around a vial. No leakage, no sticky residue. I plan to use it also for some of my samples/decants that I’m not using up too quickly to prevent evaporation.

Decanting: Tape

No matter what you use, just make sure you’re wrapping it around the place where plastic part connects with glass. If you wrap it around the place where a covering cap ends you will reduce leakage into the package but it won’t prevent a perfume from leaking into that cap and evaporating.

Packing and Shipping

Bubble wrap is your friend. Just make sure you are not trying to re-use the one that has been popped or lost air. Do not wrap too tight. Think about it this way: this wrap will protect only if with a pressure applied a bubble bursts before the conducted pressure squashes the vial.

Broken Vial

Vanessa wrote a post about bubble wrap as well: Another Unsung Hero Of The Swap Scene – Bubble Wrap.

For sending decants in/from the U.S. there are several options: bubble mailer envelope, small box (you have to have your own) shipped First Class Mail (you have to specifically ask for it, many post office clerks try to upsell) or Priority Mail® Small Flat Rate Box (box provided). Padded envelopes are cheaper in bulk from stores/online, not from a Post Office. You can also re-use those that have been sent to you. Sometimes I use small boxes from jewelry or from cosmetics inside a padded envelope to make it sturdier. Small box for priority mail are free and if you print your labels online it’ll be cheaper and will include delivery confirmation without extra charge. Decanting: Rusty and Bubble Wrap

Other Considerations

Summer is really not the best time to be sending any perfumes: think about storage rooms and mail trucks. Somehow I do not think they have a climate control. If you have to send it in summer try doing it on Monday or Tuesday so that it doesn’t spend a weekend at the storage facility.

Have I forgot anything? Please share in the comments.

Happy decanting!

Decanting: Rusty and Supplies 

Images: my own.

Laughs, Lemmings, Loves – Episode 18

 

It was a great summer week: I got to wear a summer dress twice (!) and yesterday it felt like a Bronze Goddess day – so I showered in it. It has been more than a year since I won my decant at Dee’s blog and bought a full bottle of this perfume but still every time I wear Bronze Goddess I think of Dee: small acts of kindness go a long way.

Laughs section is unusually full this week – and I haven’t even had enough time to finish reading all the posts from my reading list!

In addition to my regular sections Lemmings for perfumes I want to try, Laughs for posts that made me smile, Loves for posts about my favorite perfumes and Leftovers for everything else I find noteworthy from my readings, I introduce a new section Looking for – to publish requests for perfumes.

Lemmings Laughs Loves

Lemmings

Parfumista (Parfumistans Blogg) keeps reviewing new (at least for the US) niche brand by Ramón Monegal: The general impression of Umbra can be summarized as the picture and smell of the coolness of the mossy, forest floor under high pines a summer day. Even if classified as unisex I precieve Umbra as the most feminine vetiver I have sniffed so far.

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Thomas (The Candy Perfume Boy): To create Les Parfums de Cuir Thierry Mugler parfums a “tailor made […] natural leather” was added to four custom made vats containing each perfume allowing them to infuse & mature for four weeks and eventually, after the “leather-imbued extracts” were added to a solution, they became Les Parfums de cuir.

 

Laughs

Steven (The Scented Hound): Mechant Loup means “Big Wolf” in French, but the L’Artisan Perfumeur website lists it as “Big Bad Wolf.”  With that kind of name, I expect something over the top and powerful.  Sorry, there is nothing wolf like about this scent.  Instead, maybe it should be called “Nutty Ecureuil” or “Nutty Squirrel,” in English as it’s about as big and bad as a squirrel and holds a hazelnut note.

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Blacknall Allen (aperfumeblog by Blacknall Allen): […] French Women Don’t Get Fat.  It was full of helpful advice about dieting including eating leek soup (leeks are ace diuretics) and then limiting portion sizes drastically.  You can have anything you want, basically, so long as whatever it is comes in a tiny spoonful.  Quiche? Go for it.  Mousse-  no problem, grab your spoon and then put it down, you’re done.  Do not repeat.

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Portia (AustralianPerfumeJunkies): One of those spectacular grabs was Tous EdP in the gold package with the TOUS bear on top. Is it just me or does the TOUS bear look like a bear putting its arms behind its enormous BOOBS!!!! It looks very Dolly Parton/Pamela Anderson to me.

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Arielle (Scents of Self): I blame Buffy the Vampire Slayer, which taught me that having sex causes your boyfriend to revert to his evil vampire state and then you have to kill him to close the vortex to a hell dimension.

 

Loves

Birgit (Olfactoria’s Travels) revisits Jeux de Peau  – one of my favorite Serge Lutens’ perfumes (see Mind Games: My First Decant – Jeux de Peau). 

 

Leftovers

Melissa (She Blogs it All) is trying to organize a trip to/meet-up in France .

 

Looking for…

I’m on a Guerlain kick. I’m looking to swap for or buy at cost 2-3 ml decant of current formulation of Jicky extrait, Vol de Nuit extrait and Chamade extrait as well as 5 ml decants EdT versions of the same perfumes. If you have any of these please contact me and we’ll work out the details.

[Forest] Walk down the Memory Lane

 

School at the country where I grew up when I was growing up meant ten years in the same building, mostly with the same classmates from the first grade and until the graduation.

School

Starting from the fifth grade several times a year each class for a week was responsible for tidying up school common areas – wiping, sweeping, washing and taking out garbage.

The best chore was to be a coat room keys keeper. Since we didn’t have lockers all outerwear had to be hanged in a coat room. Usually students weren’t allowed to leave during a school day unless a teacher came with a class or sent a note. But somebody had to be “on the post” with keys in case a student needed to leave. The great part about it was that it would give you an official permission not to attend classes that day. Only students with good grades were trusted with that important mission. I was an “A” student.

A coat room was a nice place to “work” not only because of skipping classes but also because you were getting a chance to meet everybody while being in charge. Everybody.  Even from those classes two-three year older who usually do not notice you. And also it allowed you some freedom: your friends would join you either after running their choirs instead of returning to a class room or during breaks. Because it was a perfect place to hang out, to play hide and seek between rows of jackets or to talk about your feelings (and perfumes) with your first love.

Cinderella

The second best assignment was to wax parquet in corridors. It also had to be done while everybody was in class rooms studying. I always imagined doing it Cinderella’s way (click and watch for 10 seconds – I couldn’t embed it to start on the right time but for those who can’t watch a clip on youtube there is a static picture above) but in reality it was just one floor brush with a strap for your foot and tubes of floor wax/polish. It was made of turpentine (pine resin), paraffin, ceresin wax and beeswax.

Parquet polish

My school was many-many years ago but the first time I smelled Forest Walk, the latest perfume from Sonoma Scent Studo, I was immediately transported back to that school corridor. I know that it’s a complex perfume, it’s built with many great ingredients (notes include Black hemlock absolute, fir absolute, Western red cedar, oakwood absolute, galbanum resin, jasmine sambac absolute, violet, olibanum, labdanum absolute, natural oakmoss absolute, aged Indian patchouli, New Caledonia sandalwood, orris, benzoin and earthy notes). But for me Forest Walk smells of happy times of sanctioned skipped classes, pine-smelling floor wax and the imaginary pas de deux with that handsome classmate.

I haven’t conjured a forest out of this perfume but I still enjoyed the walk I’ve got from it.

For real reviews read Gaia‘s (The Non-Blonde) and Mark‘s (Ca Fleure Bon) posts.

I got my sample with a purchase from Sonoma Scent Studio at First Artisan Fragrance Salon in San Francisco.

Entertaining Statistics: July, 2012

 

July was nice and cool; I could wear almost any perfume from my collection though some of them didn’t feel right even with weather permitting.

Almost all perfumes I wear1 are those for which I own either a full bottle or a decant so I do not worry any more about not paying enough attention to them.

I am trying to slow down with my perfume purchases. One bottle per month, as somebody suggested in my June stats post, seems like a reasonable goal (in theory, at least). I almost met it! If not to count a small bottle of ISA that I bought for sentimental reasons, I got just one bottle: Field Notes From Paris by Ineke (as always, if anybody wants a decant at cost contact me).

This month I decided to chart price per ml of perfumes I wore. I took an MSRP price for 100 ml where available and calculated for the rest. If not to count the parfum (Chanel No 19) that is clearly the most expensive per ml (~$14), the next one is By Kilian’s Love & Tears ($4.70), Neela Vermeire CreationsBombay Bling! ($4.55) and Amouage’s Beloved ($4.30). On the other side of the distribution, the cheapest perfumes I wore were Yves Rocher’s Nature ($0.50 – though now it’s impossible to find it at this price) and Hugo BossDeep Red ($0.50). The median price for the perfumes I wore in July was $2.60/ml. I can’t say I enjoyed the most expensive ones more than the rest.

Stats July 2012

Quick July stats:

Numbers in parenthesis are comparison to the previous month’s numbers.

* Different perfumes worn1: 25 (-1) from 16 (-3) brands on 28 (-1) occasions;

* Different perfumes tested233 (-5) from 19 (-4) brands on 44 (-1) occasions;

* Perfumes I tried for the first time: 22 (+13);

* Perfume house I wore most often: Amouage and Tom Ford;

* Perfume house I tested the most: Sonoma Scent Studio and Cognoscenti;

* Most popular notes (only from perfumes I chose to wear): top – (not counting bergamot) pepper and neroli; middle – (not counting rose and jasmine) iris root and ylang ylang (the same as in June); base – musk, vanilla, sandalwood and cedarwood;

* Perfumes I tried for the first time and liked: too many to list, it was a good month.

Of the top of your head, what is the least expensive perfume in your collection that you love and wear?

1 For the testing I apply a perfume to one area on my arms easily available for the repetitive sniffing. But, most likely, I’m the only one who can smell it. I can test two, sometimes even more perfumes at the same time.

2 When I wear a perfume I apply it to at least three-four points and usually I plan to spend at least 4-8 hours with the same scent so I’m prepared to re-apply if the original application wears off.

 

Image: my own