Laughs, Lemmings, Loves – Episode 22

 

I had a really hectic week because my office is moving so you can imagine all the packing added to the regular work. Friday was the last day at the old place so a note to all of my correspondents: the address you have is no longer active.

I still managed to read most of the posts on my Reading List though I was on a lighter side with commenting. Here are posts that created some lemmings, made me laugh or reviewed perfumes that I love.

Moving Day

 

Lemmings

Lanier (Scents Memory): I have to say that I enjoy Diptyque and I am still exploring their line but when I smelled Volutes I flipped! Sold to the tall guy with the red shirt! Lane noticed that on my skin it smelled very masculine yet on Hilary it was wonderfully feminine. This amazing transformative aspect of the scent by this point in the evening did not surprise me.

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Christos (Memory of Scent) combines his childhood memories with a review of Serge Lutens’ perfume and it makes that perfume sound very appealing to me: Now after all these years rediscovering the combination of sweet milk and rubber strikes strange chords. Douce Amère is way too sweet for my tastes but every time I wear it I get this nostalgic feeling of sheltered childhood. Soft clouds of fuzzy cotton wrap around me, I feel the warm sensation of snoozing in a dimly lit room knowing that someone is watching over me.

 

Laughs

Lanier (Scents Memory): Fumehead and blogger Lanier Smith avoids the press leaving his home as news breaks of cologne heist in San Francisco. When questioned Smith snapped “Why don’t you ask John Robie where HE was last night?”

 

Loves

Meg (parfumieren) offers a lovely and funny take on one of my favorite L’Artisan‘s perfumes – Tea for Two: Well, it’s spicy. Comforting. It makes me think of wintertime, all nasty sleet and slippery ice outside while indoors you’re safe and sound and WARM […]

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Mel (My Life In Rouge) reviews one of my most favorite perfumes Chanel No 19: this unique iris ‘cold’ scent exudes elegance and ‘assertiveness’… in other words, a perfect companion for the ice queen in you.

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Ari (Scents of Self): Trayee is a heartbreakingly beautiful incense scent, made full and rich with blackcurrent and a fruity jasmine note. Y’all know that I don’t like jasmine and I don’t like fruity, so it is a true testament to Duchafour’s skills that he was able to render these notes wearable and even attractive to me. For my take on all three perfumes in the line read Three Pieces of Neela Vermeire’s India Puzzle.

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Portia (Australian Perfume Junkies) isn’t sure if my favorite Ineke‘s Field Notes From Paris will become a FBW: I really love the opening and the journey is a good one with highs, lows and interesting things happening, I want to be madly enraptured because the work is so good and the price is not outrageous either. Field Notes From Paris is the kind of niche offering that we wish the big boys would emulate, and the bottle itself is gorgeous.

 

You say ‘Tomato’, I say ‘Leather’

 

When people who had been living in the same country for the most part of their lives and hadn’t traveled much move to a new and unfamiliar place, it’s a common situation that, at least in the beginning, they try not to embrace new environment but to adapt it to their needs and expectations. And they get frustrated when new environment pushes back.

One of my complaints after I moved to the U.S. was a taste of tomatoes. I remembered how great tomatoes that my grandmother grew in her garden were. I could eat them as is or with a little salt just biting from the fruit. Of course, at Grandma’s those were special variety tomatoes grown with love and care. But even those tomatoes that we would pick up at farms to where we were taken from schools and colleges with some strange notion to teach us to work were great.

Tomatos

With the experience of living in the new place comes the understanding that sometimes if you can’t find something that was so popular in another country it’s because there is no demand for it; if you do not like something, there’s a chance that you’re getting that something of not the best quality; and if something isn’t as good as you remember it to be, it might be because you are not in your twenties any more.

So at some point I persuaded myself that I was just buying wrong tomatoes and switched to local heirloom tomatoes during the season. Those tasted better but still not exactly how I remembered ripe tomatoes from a vine. “I’m not twenty anymore; tomatoes are just fine…” – I told myself and stopped thinking about it… until I read this article. I wasn’t that far off after all: American tomatoes suck.

What does it have to do with perfumes? – are probably asking those of you who made it to this point.

For a while cluster tomatoes were my answer to the lost tomato quest. They weren’t much better than any other variety I tried but at least the scent of the vine, on which they came, reminded me of those wonderfully flavorful tomatoes from my childhood. And when I tried this new perfume it reminded me of the scent of a tomato stem.

Cognoscenti Tomato Leather

Scent No.16 Tomato Leather by Cognoscenti – created in 2012 by Dannielle Sergent, notes include tomato leaf, clary sage, linden blossom, leather, black agarwood, benzoin, frankincense, myrrh and tobacco. I don’t know what is that with different companies and the numbers, but, in my opinion, it’s an awful idea to name perfumes with numbers if you’re not Chanel. I’m glad Cognoscenti decided to go with a subtitle for at least two of their perfumes.

Other than tomato leaves (stem), I do not smell any of the notes listed. I’m not saying there are no other notes there, the perfume has some complexity but the notes are blended in such a way that I do not recognize even those that I usually can easily pick out – linden, agarwood and tobacco. I smell something that I attribute to the “leather” part of the name but leather in Tomato Leather doesn’t remind me any other leathers I’m closely familiar with.

Tomato Leather is a truly unisex perfume: there is nothing daring in wearing it either by a man or a woman. I wonder if it has any sweetness to it: I cannot smell it at all but there might be something that my nose doesn’t register.

Cognoscenti launched its line just a couple of months ago during the First Artisan Fragrance Salon in San Francisco; and recently they’ve added an online store where you can buy samples* for all three perfumes from the line. You can buy bottles as well but I assume you’d like to test them first.

Cognoscenti Perfumes

I like almost everything about Cognoscenti – the reasonable number of perfumes in the initial collection, design of their bottles, packaging and samples availability. “Almost” because I wish they had smaller bottles – 30 ml (or even less). I think that Cognoscenti’s perfumes are very interesting and unusual. I’m just not sure that I need 50 ml of any of the two scents that I liked. But I’m tempted because I like them and would love to wear from time to time. I’ll see what to do once my samples are gone.

 

Images: tomatoes – my friend M., perfumes – my own.

* Disclaimer: I got my samples from the brand at the Fragrance Salon not for the review; recently I won the random draw for another sample set at Cafleure Bon where you can read Tama’s review for the line. I haven’t been approached by the brand or compensated in any way.

UPDATE: Now the brand offers 5 ml travel bottles

 

A Postcard from Undina: Just a Weekend

 

Rusty and Bouquet

I had a very pleasant weekend: visited friends; ate my first s’more ever (you have to grow up with that tradition to like them); tested seven  perfumes (nothing earth-shattering); cooked nice dinner for friends at my place; wore my favorite Guerlain Cruel Gardenia (got compliments on it) and spent quality time with Rusty (and my vSO,of course).

 

How was your weekend?

 

Undina

 

Image: my own

Surrealism and my Surreal Perfume Perception

 

Recently I visited the exhibition Man Ray | Lee Miller: Partners in Surrealism.

The exhibition covered three distinct periods. The first period – time before 21 years old Lee Miller, an established model and an apprentice photographer, met and became a student and a lover of Man Ray, a well-known at the time avant-garde photographer and painter, seventeen years her senior. The second period – their three years together in photographs, paintings and “rayographs.” And the last one – their works after she left him and they went on with their lives.

While it wasn’t the most interesting exposition, I was very pleased to find several works for which Lee Miller took pictures of Guerlain’s shop front. Two better known – photographs Exploding Hand and Self-portrait, Reflection in the window of Guerlain (see below) and several more from the same roll that I wasn’t able to find online (with an actual Guerlain store front).

Lee Miller Self Portrait - Reflection In Guerlain Window

Disclaimer: I’m not even an amateur in art appreciation; I’m nobody, so the following part is just my layman’s opinion.

I thought Lee Miller’s photographs were very good especially those that she made as a war photographer. I liked some of Ray’s photographs (though that exhibition doesn’t do him justice) and was appalled by most of the “paintings” presented: it’s not art! Those are not good even as decorative pieces. The only excuse for showing them is that whoever curated the exhibition just couldn’t get enough good items and had to use fillers. To the same purpose, I think, there were some works of other contemporary artists from their circle. Picasso’s portrait of Lee Miller attracted my attention and prompted a comment addressed to my vSO: “This is art. He knew how to paint and then chose to do it this way. Ray Miller’s works look like he just couldn’t do it any better.” (I am like that every time I come across something that I refuse to consider art – no matter on whose authority a piece in question got in which museum/exhibition. For some reason I feel very passionate about such issues)

Picasso - Lee Miller Portrait

I tried to find those pictures as postcards in the museum shop. For some reason I wanted to buy those prints with Guerlain sign. My efforts were futile. But as I was fumbling through postcards I smelled a perfume on another customer and liked it. I complimented her on it and asked what it was. “Paloma Picasso” was her answer.

Paloma Picasso by Paloma Picasso, created in 1984 by Francis Bocris under guidance of the eldest daughter of Pablo Picasso, notes vary by the source so I’ll go with NST: yields hyacinth, citrus, coriander, angelica, cloves, rose, mimosa, ylang ylang, jasmine, patchouli, honey, civet, oakmoss, sandalwood and vetiver.

I saw Paloma Picasso thousand times. It was ubiquitous in every online and many B&M discounter stores. I could describe the bottle design if you were to ask me a month or ten years ago. Yet that moment at the museum shop I realized that I’d never even smelled it. Don’t ask me why. Ok, ask me.

Looking back I recollect that, based on the packaging (I know, I know – very deep of me), I thought it was a heavy oriental perfume, something like YSL Opium, so I didn’t think I would like it – and never tried it.

That weekend while writing one of the LLL posts I almost added the Looking For section to ask if anybody could spare a sample of Paloma Picasso – that was how much I liked it on the women in the museum. But suddenly I remembered that in one of the duty-free miniature sets that I got as a gift there was a mini of Paloma Picasso EdP.

Do you remember a “deer scene” from My Cousin Vinny?

Mona Lisa Vito: Whoa. You’re gonna shoot a deer?
Vinny Gambini: I don’t know. I suppose. I mean, I’m a man’s man, I could go deer hunting.
Mona Lisa Vito: A sweet, innocent, harmless, leaf-eating, doe-eyed little deer.
Vinny Gambini: Hey Lisa, I’m not gonna go out there just to wimp out, you know. I mean, the guy will lose respect for me, would you rather have that?
[Lisa gets up, walks over to the bathroom and shuts the door]
Vinny Gambini: What about these pants I got on, you think they’re O.K.?
Mona Lisa Vito: [comes out of the bathroom] Imagine you’re a deer. You’re prancing along, you get thirsty, you spot a little brook, you put your little deer lips down to the cool clear water… BAM! A f** bullet rips off part of your head! Your brains are laying on the ground in little bloody pieces! Now I ask ya. Would you give a f**k what kind of pants the son of a bitch who shot you was wearing?

That “BAM!” (you have to watch that short clip from the link above if you do not have a visual image of Marisa Tomei’s gesture in your head) was how I felt the first time I applied Paloma EdP. It is a very strong and very loud perfume. I love what I smell but I’m not sure I can actually wear it: I feel almost overwhelmed just testing Paloma from a dab mini on my wrist. But I’m so impressed by it and so surprised that I avoided it for so long that I plan to try to wear it (meaning – I’ll carefully apply it in 2-3 spots while having a shower within my reach).

Paloma Picasso perfume

For real reviews go to Bois de Jasmine, The Non-Blonde or Perfume Shrine.

 

Image: Self-portrait from here; Picasso from here; perfume – my own.

Laughs, Lemmings, Loves – Episode 21

 

Last week was a little strange because the long weekend (Labor Day) abruptly turned into a very busy week at work. And then I read Carol’s (bloody frida) post about cataloging and sorting samples and spent Sunday weekend catching up on my samples instead of posting this weekly round-up. Do you think I’m done with those samples?

I read almost all posts from my Reading List but I think I was more distracted than usually and might have missed some of the articles that made me laugh, reviewed my favorite perfumes or conjured lemmings. Here are posts that I didn’t miss.

Lemmings Laughs Loves

Lemmings

Ines (All I am – a redhead) reviews Santal Majuscule by Serge Lutens: warm, spicy, boozy fruit with the general feeling of seriousness and darkness (there’s not frivolity to this fruit as the feeling is dry and not sparkling and happy) with cocoa underscoring the darkness and warmth and sandalwood making you swoon. Now I know it’s there, I can smell the rose appear and the fruitiness slowly disappear.

Laughs

Natalie (Another Perfume Blog): Appropriately, the full page feature on Dot is a hot mess of garish colors and plants that look carnivorous. I like the truth in advertising, which says: Watch out; this fragrance will eat you and everyone in a 10-foot radius.

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I think everybody has read Arielle’s (Scents of Self) skit on Chanel Coco Noir creation but if somehow you missed it I highly recommend it: whether you liked Coco Noir or not you’ll get a chuckle out of her post.

Loves

Susan (Eiderdown Press) reviews one of my all-time favorite perfumes Petite Cherie by Annick Goutal: This fragrance is like a butterfly kiss or fairy wings or the peal of laughter from the cutest little girl you’ve ever seen: pure, light refreshment and much too fine a thing to be pinned down. Its fizzy top notes smell like an irresistible spritzer of one’s imagining—pear nectar and a splash of rose water added to a glass of Perrier—and are so gently effervescent that it is no surprise that what follows is a skin scent so quiet, you might assume it has floated off into the stratosphere. If you want my story read Weeklong Test Drive, Episode 1.6: Petite Cherie by Annick Goutal.

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Portia (AustralianPerfumeJunkies) reviews my favorite New Look 1947 by Dior: […] it opens with a big flashy and fleshy burst of white floral, I love to just stand and drink in the warm aromatic glamour that lasts about 10-20 minutes. All the accords are already there but the tuberose is at this point king. It’s like a fantasy fragrance, all the good stuff without being heady, overwhelming or an oxygen stealing white floral screamer (which I also love BTW) so those of you who are repelled by such overt displays will be thrilled.

Entertaining Statistics: August, 2012

 

August was nice: we had several hot days and the rest of the month was on the cooler side. But perfume wear/test-wise it was a strange month for me: as I was trying to figure out if perfumes contributed to my persistent cough (I think they didn’t) I took a break from any perfumes for a while; in addition to that, at least several perfumes I wore during the month had such staying power that testing anything else the same day was out of question. As a result, I both tested and wore fewer perfumes.

So I decided to entertain you with another type of statistics data.

Do you remember the fun question Birgit of Olfactoria’s Travels asked last year: Guerlain or Chanel? and the results we compiled? So when last Monday Birgit asked to choose ten “deserted island perfumes”, I got curious to see if answers to this question correlated to the previous results. But when I started I couldn’t stop just there.

Stats August 2012

Our deserted island will be populated by at least 45 perfumistas, though there was some dissension as to the climate choice: concerns were voiced that not all favorite perfumes were tropic-friendly.

Future settlers named 310 unique perfumes from 91 brands (when a concentration or vintage were mentioned I counted perfumes as unique). See the chart above for the total number of selected perfumes for top 15 brands.

Two most popular perfumes were Guerlain Shalimar and Frederic Malle Carnal Flower11 voices each; Chanel No 5 got 6 votes (including one for parfum); Amouage Lyric, Chanel Coromandel, Lancome Cuir de Lancome, Serge Lutens Ambre Sultan and Chanel No 19 (counting EdP, EdT, parfum and vintage) got 5 voices each. 79 perfumes were named by more than one perfumista. It means that we’ll have 231 unrepeated perfumes to enjoy ourselves or swap – not bad for a group of 45.

Only 4 out of 10 perfumes on my list were unique (Climat by Lancôme, Tiempe Passate by Antonia’s Flowers, Vert pour Madame by DSH Perfumes and Sweet Milk by Jo Malone). Only Chanel No 19 though was among the most popular selections. The other five were on two to three people’s lists.

Deserted Island Perfumes

I wonder how good my swapping chances would be.

Laughs, Lemmings, Loves – Episode 20

 

Last week I took a mini-vacation. It’s amazing how within an hour one can travel from bright and hot vineyards of Sonoma to an overshadowed and cool trails of Muir Woods.

Somehow this week I didn’t come across any really funny posts (please share if you did) but all other categories are represented.

Lemmings Laughs Loves

Lemmings

Lucas (Chemist in the Bottle): Rose of Rose Anonyme is a specific rose, hard to compare with other rosy perfume created so far. It smells like you took a fresh, deep red rose and mixed it with an older, almost black rose petals, sprinkled it with a little bit of rose water and combined it with traditional rose potpourri. It’s a rose of hundred faces.

 

Loves

Steve (The Scented Hound) wrote great reviews for two of my favorite perfumes: Perfect for today’s rainy weather, Field Notes from Paris does remind me of exactly what Ineke was trying to convey; “sweet-scented Paris afternoons, life measured out in coffee spoons.”  Perfect for hanging out in your favorite sweater and jeans on a Sunday morning while recuperating from your all too fun Saturday night and A*Men Pure Havane opens with a wonderful sweet tobacco ladened honey.  It’s warm and delicious and oh so edible; you just want to lick it off of your skin.  This could easily have gone over the top, but it doesn’t as the labdanum and amber mixed with the vanilla and cocoa leaves this scent grounded.

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Suzanne (Eiderdown Press) paid a beautiful tribute to one of my beloved perfumes: Wearing Vera Wang eau de parfum, and yes, you can strip me of my perfumista card, but it is what I’m craving.  Maybe it’s not the kind of fragrance that inspires one to write anything deep or meaningful about it, but it’s intensely floral and makes an überly feminine statement that feels both polished and dreamy (my Vera Wang story: What Happens in Vegas… Part II: Confession of a Sillage Monster)

 

Leftovers

Ines (All I am – a redhead) tries to help to promote Croatia. Follow the link and take a look at great pictures of her recent vacation.

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Cheryl has moved Perfumed Letters from Blogger to WordPress. Visit her new home to say hi.

A Postcard from Undina: From Sonoma with LOVE

From Sonoma With Love

This is a view from the deck of one of my favorite wineries –  Paradise Ridge . It’s a great place to visit: they offer wine tasting (we like their wines enough to join their wine club) as well as great place for picnics with breathtaking views and a periodically changing collection of sculptures on the grounds for you to see, touch, climb on and take pictures of (like the one – LOVE – above).

Undina

 

Image: my own

Laughs, Lemmings, Loves – Episode 19

 

Since I skipped last week’s round-up this “issue” has posts from the last two weeks. But if your time behaves like mine (meaning disappears before I realize where it’s gone) you might have missed some of them.

So here we go: posts that made me laugh, created lemmings or reviewed perfumes that I love.

Lemmings, Laughs, Loves

 

Lemmings

Sergey Borisov (Fragrantica) describes the new release from PuredistanceOpardu: This perfume is a beatifully nostalgic, as it was said. To me it smells as an armful of fresh and wet lilacs, with a tender powdery floral heart. The first general impression of a lilac bouquet falls into nuances of heliotrope and orris, – an echo of Caron powder, fresh violet, heady jasmine, hyacinth and fresh green lily-of-the-valley. I also found a trace of rose petals found between pages of a romantic book. I agree with their press information, the perfume is hypnotizing. I really-really-really want to try this one.

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From NST new fragrance announcement: DjHenné is like a warm shadow. A leathery veil of golden wheat and myrrh, that offers protection from the scorching with delicate mint leaves and seringa blossoms.

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Ari (Scents of Self): […] it’s great. Better than I could have hoped. I loathe fruity fragrances, and you can bet your bottom dollar that I’ll be buying a bottle of this. Blackberry & Bay opens with the deliciously savory combination of bay leaves and grapefruit. There’s a lot of grapefruit in here, and it does an perfect job of keeping the (very realistic) blackberry note tart rather than overly sweet.

 

Laughs

Lanier (scents memory): … it is like smelling Freon mixed with sewage from Tijuana that has been fermenting in an old cooler for about six weeks in the Mojave Desert. I have passed homeless men on the street that smell better than this travesty. Follow the link to see which perfume evoked such strong feelings.

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Birgit (Olfactoria’s Travels): Lancome La Vie est belle: No, it ain’t! (belle, that is.) I hate this. But that doesn’t come as a surprise, because I already know it. This is Coco Mademoiselle, Flowerbomb and any other fruity patchouli ever created (why, oh why?). Iris gourmand? Oh please, berry patchouli with the power to kill small animals and the half-life of Uranium.

 

Loves

Portia (AustralianPerfumeJunkies) reviews one of my favorite Ormonde Jayne’s perfumes ChampacaIt’s now 8+ hours, we’ve been for dinner, watched a movie at home on TV and I’m finishing up my post, there is now a slightly musky smell but it’s a sweet sweat, the myrrh and still, amazingly, a little of that sexy neroli; but you have to be close enough to…. (Don’t pay attention to all the personal praises: it’s the perfume talking)

 

Leftovers

Victoria (Bois de Jasmin): If you’ve ever plotted to mail order a coveted Serge Lutens bell jar from Paris, you’ll be happy to know that starting this month, you can simply order the perfumes from Barneys in New York.

“H” for Hothouse Flower by Ineke

 

Say “rose,” “peony,” “jasmine,” “lily-of-the-valley” or even “tulip” – and I immediately imagine both a flower and its scent. I hear “gardenia,” and I draw a blank: I’m not sure I’ve ever seen it in nature, and I can’t imagine how it smells. I saw gardenia petals at the Bouquets to Art exhibition (pictures two and tree in the post) but that was the closest I’ve ever come to the real thing.

Probably because I have no preconception of gardenia I like many gardenia-centered perfumes – Cruel Gardenia by Guerlain, Gardenia by Jo Loves and White Flowers by Yosh. These perfumes do not smell similar to me, so I’m still not sure how close to a gardenia flower these are.

Hothouse Flower by Ineke

For the first time I smelled new gardenia soliflore perfume Hothouse Flower by Ineke in July of this year at the First Artisan Fragrance Salon in San Francisco. It smelled nice, but I was so overwhelmed by everything I tried this day that I knew I wouldn’t be making it any justice. It was the end of the day, and they were out of samples but Ineke Ruhland was very kind to make one for me. Since then I kept testing it.

Hothouse Flower notes include Earl Grey tea, green foliage, cypress, absinthe, gardenia, galbanum, fig, frankincense, guaiac wood, musk and corn silk.

Hothouse Flower smells green. But it’s not No 19 or Silences type of green. It’s more like a green apple green. It’s floral but not sweet – at least to my nose. It’s fresh but not ozonic. Hothouse Flower stays on my skin for at least five hours gradually fading out but not changing much. Nevertheless, it doesn’t seem overly simple.

I’ve mentioned it before: Ineke has a great sample set. For $25 (shipping included) you’ll get the first seven perfumes of the line. Plus, once Hothouse Flower is released in September, they will send you a sample of it. Plus, you can redeem the price of the set against a full bottle purchase later. But wait, there’s more! If you call in the next… OK, just kidding. It’s not a commercial, I just feel really excited about this release. I think I’ll need a bottle of Hothouse Flower.

Ineke Delux Sample Collection

Images: my own