Sunday Question: Does/Did Your Father Wear Perfume?

I’m late this week, but it’s still Sunday, and I decided not to skip our weekly topic. It’s Father’s Day in the U.S., and since we haven’t covered this question before, I decided it would be quite appropriate – even though my loyal respondents are all around the globe and even if celebrate a similar holiday, most likely, do it on a different date.

Saturday Question on Undina's Looking Glass

Sunday Question #268:

Does/Did Your Father Wear Perfume?

If yes, do you know/remember which one(s)? How about your grandfather(s)?

A bonus question: do you have Father’s Day or a similar celebration where you live now?

My Answer

All men in my family wore colognes when I was growing up. Men’s colognes, as practical aftershave products, were much more prevalent then women’s perfumes. Most of them weren’t fancy (though, my father and one of my grandfathers were known to get a better ones), but men used them – both at home and as the last step in getting a haircut at a barbershop.

My father uses perfumes these days. We leave 5+ hours flight away from each other, so I do not know what is in his scent wardrobe these days, but I remember him wearing Jo Malone Dark Amber & Ginger Lily, Chanel Egoiste Platinum, Creed Aventus and Ineke Field Notes From Paris (which I bought him for his birthday 3 years ago).

Ineke Field Notes From Paris

Now it’s your turn.

Does/Did Your Father Wear Perfume?

Happy Busy Life

Happy Busy Life

Hi crew, I’d seriously put aside time to write but it has slipped through my fingers. Happy Busy Life has had me in its bear claws. Not sure how many of you are longtime readers, or even care, but my not perfume blogging life is as a Drag Queen. Yes, that has been my major source of income since 1988 and continues to this day. Turbo Trivia is the weekly event I run and have some other gorgeous Drag Queens working all over Sydney under its banner. Personally I work 4 nights, Sunday through Wednesday but also manage to pick up some extra gigs here and there hosting other things.

Currently (though I’m on a bit of a sabbatical) I’m also studying to become a Wedding Celebrant. In Australia it’s a really big deal. Cert 4, one year and loads of hours each week. There’s just 5 real life fake weddings to go and then to be approved by the Governor General’s office. I’m both excited and terrified about the prospect and have been arseing about. Next month I’m hoping to get it all done and dusted.

The reason I’m giving you this life update is because I find myself at 2am on Tuesday morning here in Sydney with nothing prepared to go up later on today. So thought you might like a couple of recent pics of events I’ve been hosting and what perfume has been getting the spritzes with each outfit. Please remember that it’s been Autumn and just hit Winter so many of the choices are cool weather leaning.

Happy Busy Life

First shot is Sunday Night Turbo Trivia at Austral Bowling Club. As you can see, feathers are my fave! On this night I was drenched in Neela Vermeire Creations Eshal. Tuberose with a zillion bells and whistles. Perfect for this slightly OTT outfit.

Happy Busy Life

This is my early years Boy George look, Before he got really outlandish with the huge hats and shirt dresses. This night was a Jaipur PH by Boucheron night. It’s a creamy spice bomb that wears so beautifully. It surprises me that it’s not a bigger perfumista hit. In this photo I’m with some of the girls who have played Turbo Trivia at Club Parramatta for well over a decade.

Happy Busy Life

This weekend my mate Jason married the love of his life. Jason and I were in shows together at the Albury Hotel for a few years spanning the century divide. He flew me up to Brisbane on the Saturday afternoon, I got dressed, hosted his reception and partied a bit with the crew, up again at 5am to get a plane back to Sydney because I was working again Sunday night. Here I am with Australian singer and cabaret performer Rhonda Burchmore who was the entertainment for the night. She’s legendary and Jason was one of her dancers for years, he also danced in the movie Moulin Rouge and others. I wore Olibere Parfums Escapade a Byzance because I wanted something opulent and fabulous to match the occasion.

Happy Busy Life

So, there you have it. three looks and three fragrances that got some wear in my life lately.
What have you been wearing?
Portia xx

Saturday Question: Which Are Your Top 5 Favorite Brands?

Can you believe it – I didn’t ask this question before? I was sure that we did it at some point and planned to ask anyway since it was long ago. But I checked – and no.

Saturday Question on Undina's Looking Glass

Saturday Question #267:

Which Are Your Top 5 Favorite Brands?

You do not have to give away or stop wearing any of the brands you won’t include. You do not need to rank these five – unless you want to, of course. These are not necessarily brands that are represented the most in your collection. And you can change your mind tomorrow. But today, please make an effort and choose just 5.

My Answer

My perfume database currently contains 388 brands. It doesn’t mean that I own even a sample from all of them, but I tested at least one of their perfumes at some point. I could have also tested some additional brands but didn’t think I would ever be interested in their perfumes – so, those experiences haven’t been recorded.

I selected top 3 without thinking or looking in my records – Ormonde Jayne, Amouage and Puredistance. Each of these brands have numerous perfumes I enjoy wearing, and while there were releases that didn’t work for me, each of them had something new that I liked quite recently.

But then it took me some time to choose the last two. I like many individual perfumes, but that doesn’t mean that I like the brand. For some brands I have multiple bottles, but then I start thinking about their most recent releases, and I’m not sure if I like them any longer. Finally, after sifting through the list, I decided on Chanel and Masque Milano. (I have to clarify: I do not like Chanel as a brand, but I like their perfumes.)

How about you?

Which Are Your Top 5 Favorite Brands?

Saturday Question: Do You Still Buy Perfumes?

I can’t believe it’s the last day of a Meteorological Spring already! Today was the hottest day (so far) this year – +88F/+31C, and I am already thinking about Fall. I know that we need summer (I love eating local fruits, and grapes for wines that we buy need at least some sun), but if it were for me, I would have been happy with a “jacket weather” all year long.

Saturday Question on Undina's Looking Glass

Saturday Question #266:

Do You Still Buy Perfumes?

Yes, we do not need more perfumes, and yes, most of us still have a wish list, even if it’s a small one. But have you actually spent any money on perfumes this year? Everything counts – bottles, decants and samples. As long as you paid for it.

What have you bought?

My Answer

Had I asked this question a week ago, my answer would have been “No.” I tried a number of newer perfumes at the local Nordstrom and Neiman Marcus, but haven’t pulled the trigger on any new bottles. I was tempted a couple of times by Luckyscent’s sample packs, but by the time I would see them advertised in their newsletters and get to the website, they would be sold out.

Last weekend, since Luckyscent was running the Memorial Day sale, I decided it was a good reason to buy some samples. Since it was a spur-of-the-moment purchase, I bought just 3 samples – the latest Puredistance perfume Divanche (it was the main reason for that purchase) and 2 Amouage perfumes, Guidance 46 (I like the original Guidance, so I am curious to try this extrait de parfum version) and their newest Reasons (I wanted to try others from the same launch, but Luckiscent was out of samples for them). I haven’t received them yet, but hopefully early next week they will be here.

Since I have some trips planned later this year, I will be testing more perfumes than I did in the last 3-4 years, so I might find something that I’ll want to add to my collection. But, in general, I’m currently on a very-slow-buy.

 

How about you?

Do You Still Buy Perfumes?

Lady Day by Maria Candida Gentile

Lady Day by Maria Candida Gentile

Hi there ULGers, Lady Day by Maria Candida Gentile was a gift from my perfume buddy Scotty. He was complaining about how polite and pretty it is and felt that he’d never wear it. I offered to give it some wear and see if it was more me. Yes, selfless, caring individual that I am. HA! also greedy bitch who wants to have ALL the perfume.

Lady Day by Maria Candida Gentile 2012

Maria Candida Gentile site gives these featured accords:
Top: Galbanum
Heart: Gardenia
Base: Balsam

I wore Lady Day the next day after my acquisition. Considering how short the advertised note list is I was surprised by the depth and texture of the fragrance. There was something very repellant in the first wear, an unease that felt like malaise or the slip from sadness to melancholy. Normally I’d be glad and give the perfume back but Lady Day isa so strange. I wanted to smell that feeling again. Did it REALLY smell like that or was it projecting my own preconceived ideas of the Billy Holiday story.

The opening is green, smoky and sweet. The green is smooth like beach glass and super cool like frost. It has a smoky texture that also smells like the feel of old burned wood ash in a BarBQ. So silky but with the acrid scent of char. The sweetness is uncomfortable, a bit ripe sweat and whispers of confectionary like those strawberry and cream lollies we had as kids. Yes, I told you. Strange and unsettling but Oh SO More-ish.

Lady Day Maria Candida Gentile

The heart of Lady day feels more floral but not gardenia. It smells like a bunch of wildflowers picked while out walking and dandelions. It’s so pretty and calming. A bit like your first sip of chamomile tea, that fresh but green/tart warmth. Poor description, I know.

Dry down smells to me like smooth greenery and some vanilla rich amber. It’s very calm and serene at this point.

Longevity is better than moderate and though not a powerhouse Lady Day does give a soft wave of sillage after the first 30 minutes that lasts a few hours before becoming very close to your body.

Strange but alluring, like much of Billy Holiday’s music. I will not be returning this bottle, I’m captivated.
Did you ever try Lady Day? or have a favourite Maria Candida gentile?
Portia xx

Saturday Question: What are You Top 5 Iris Perfumes?

I wrote about iris perfumes so many times that I was sure we have previously covered this topic in one of the SQ posts. But I checked – and no, we didn’t. So, shall we?

Saturday Question on Undina's Looking Glass

Saturday Question #265:

What are You Top 5 Iris Perfumes?

Provided you do like this note in perfumes, what are your most favorite irises in your collection? (Any formats above a sample count.)

My Answer

I like iris in perfumes, and in the past, I did a couple of Month of Iris projects where I wore only iris-centric perfumes for the whole month (albeit a short one, February). It was hard to choose just 5, and I feel bad leaving some of my favorites off the list, but I can’t break my own rules, right? So, here we go, in alphabetical order by brand – not to worry about which one I like the most:

Chanel №19 Parfum
Frederic Malle Iris Poudre
Armani Prive La Femme Bleue
Le Labo Iris 39
Xerjoff Irisss

I love them all, but it seems like I can’t recommend any of them! La Femme Bleue was a limited edition, so it’s long time gone, No 19 parfum isn’t on the brand’s site (but it might still be available at one of their boutiques), Iris 39 and Iris Poudre are bleak copies of their original selves, and Irisss is still available but I don’t know how seriously it was reformulated. It will be interesting to find a new iris favorite among the currently available perfumes.

 

How about you?

What are You Top 5 Iris Perfumes?

Saturday Question: What Perfume in Your Collection Do You Still Like But Haven’t Worn in a While?

Last week, as I was checking my collection for Serge Lutens bell jar bottles, I realized that I haven’t worn De Profundis in about 18 months. I rectified it since then and confirmed that I still like that perfume. But since then I was thinking about all the perfumes that I own and like (at least, I think that I still like them), but never choose to wear.

 

Saturday Question on Undina's Looking Glass

 

Saturday Question #264:

What Perfume in Your Collection Do You Still Like But Haven’t Worn in a While?

Since you ignore that perfume (perfumes?), you might not know for sure that you still like it, but unless you know otherwise, you can assume that you still do. Why do you not reach for it?

My Answer

I decided not to check anything but bottles – full and travel – while looking for neglected favorites. It was slightly depressing: I have so many beautiful perfumes! Why don’t I wear them more often?!

I’m positive I still like Coco Chanel. But I haven’t worn it in more than 2 years. Ineke‘s Hothouse Flower seems still very attractive – and yet, it didn’t get any skin time in the last 3 years. And I’m not sure if I can still claim liking Champs Elysées by Guerlain because the last time I wore it was… 9 years ago.

Why?.. Too many perfume decants that are more easily accessible than bottles tucked away on a shelf. New favorites competing for my attention. And probably working from home for the last several years. I will try to rotate perfumes in my collection better. Because I’m sure that if I look at decants as well, I’ll find many more perfumes that never get into the rotation and sit on the shelf or in a drawer forgotten. But if you were to ask me, I would have told you that I still liked them.

 

How about you?

 

What Perfume in Your Collection Do You Still Like But Haven’t Worn in a While?

Escapade a Byzance by Olibere

Escapade a Byzance by Olibere

Hi there ULGers, A perfume crew that is rarely cited on the scentbloggosphere is Olibere. I’m not sure why. Here are my thoughts. They’re not a huge conglomerate with millions to spend on hype, they don’t use influencers, they’re a bit too good for the modern perfume bro but not classic or strange enough for the super perfumista crowd. I’ve got a couple of faves from them but today I thought we could talk about Escapade a Byzance.  Mainly because this year it turns 10 years old ! That’s a big deal in modern perfume years. Especially from a fairly under the radar house. I’ve had a 20ml travel of it for a while and it gets enough wear that it’s nearly half gone.

From Olibere: “A gourmand, warm, spicy and carnal fragrance, which will take you to the heart of a Moroccan souk. Perfume inspired by the film « The sheltering sky », shot in Morocco.”

I’m also loving that the brand’s blurb and my recent Morocco holiday are so well aligned.

Escapade a Byzance by Olibere 2015

Escapade a Byzance by Olibere

Olibere gives these featured accords:
Top: Black Pepper, Cinnamon, Saffron, Ginger, Cumin, Citrus
Heart: Cypress, Carnation, Incense
Base: Vanilla, Benzoin, Musk, Amber, Patchouli, Vetiver, Atlas Cedar

Opening is a warm vanilla rich amber that is given some extra spicy bells and whistles and interestingly the ginger gives it a very sharp green spiced effect, like biting into really expensive bitter dark chocolate ginger. It’s such an attention grabbing first few minutes.

Once we head to the heart Escapade a Byzance becomes a fragrance wholly blended to become itself, rather than outstanding notes. It’s a surprisingly dusty melange of spices, flowers, woods and a smoky overlay on a base of patchouli/amber. Today I’m wearing it in 27C/80f and it is blooming beautifully. I love that the bells and whistles last longer than just the opening and head with us into dry down.

Escapade a Byzance by Olibere

Dry down becomes more about the patchouli and a raunchy musk. The amber, spice and smoke are much more noticeable as the heft of Escapade a Byzance lowers. Maybe two hours in and the fireworks have calmed. I’m still fragrant 7 hours later but at a much lower projection. Now I need to move a bit to get a proper huff out of my top.

Unisex but leaning traditional and with excellent longevity. Does Escapade a Byzance remind me of being in a Moroccan souk? Yes and no. This is a fantasized glamorous rendering that amps up all the good bits and leaves out most of the cooking and less attractive parts. So a beautiful, technicolor dream of a Moroccan souk.

Do you know the Olibere Parfums brand?
Portia xx

 

Saturday Question: Do You Own Any Serge Lutens Perfume in a Bell Jar?

Last week, as we discussed perfumes we’d like to get back in our collections, Hamamelis mentioned Iris Silver Mist, and that sparkled a memory. 12-15 years ago, Serge Lutens perfumes were quite popular in Perfumeland in general, and bell jars were something that people talked about with bated breath. Those who were lucky to travel to Europe (or have a perfume mule) would proudly present their prized possession, and others would be in awe of the beauty. Around 2012, those bell jars finally made it to the US. The price was steep by those time’s standards – about $300 for a 75 ml bell jar, much more expensive than those were in Europe. But at least they were here.

These days, I don’t hear about Lutens perfumes too often, and I don’t know if any store in the US still carries that line after the demise of Barneys. But Serge Lutens website offers all perfumes, including bell jars (with just $9 delivery fee). And the prices today, 12+ years later, are $320 for a bell jar, which in today’s prices doesn’t feel as exorbitant (not that I’m prepared to pay it now). It has been a while since the brand released the last new bell jar, but still…

 

Saturday Question on Undina's Looking Glass

 

Saturday Question #263:

Do You Own Any Serge Lutens Perfume in a Bell Jar?

If yes, which one(s)? If now, was the price the only deterrence? Or did you not find any in the line to love? Or did you not like that format?

Do you think you’ll ever buy one [more]?

My Answer

I have two! The first one, De Profundis, was delivered from Europe by a friend after I overcame my initial preconception against the name. I bought and wore the second one, Boxeuses, as an invisible armor during a couple of rough years at the end of my long stretch at the company I worked at then, including the last day, as I was leaving for the next job. I still enjoy both, though I just can’t bring myself to using perfumes from those bottles: I keep decanting them into a much less glamorous containers keeping perfumes in bell jars pristine.

I am not sure if I would buy another perfume in that format if it is available in a spray bottle as well. The closest contender would probably be Bas de Soie, but it really pains me to pay a bell jar price for perfume I should have bought in a regular bottle when it was available.

How about you?

 

Do You Own Any Serge Lutens Perfume in a Bell Jar?

Saturday Question: What Perfume Would You Get Back If You Could?

Last week’s topic clearly wasn’t a favorite of my loyal readers: some didn’t participate at all, some still refused to part with any of their bottles even theoretically. Let’s try the other way around.

Saturday Question on Undina's Looking Glass

Saturday Question #262:

What Perfume Would You Get Back If You Could?

The condition is: you previously had that perfume in your collection – not a sample, but anything else from a decant (the smallest allowed size 5 ml) via minis and travel bottles to a full bottle can play. It doesn’t matter if perfumes are still in production, discontinued or reformulated. In this fantasy poll you can wish for any version of any perfume – as long as it fits the criteria.

My Answer

Since in the last 15 years I haven’t finished any bottles that I loved without replacing them, and I’ve bought most perfumes I tried and liked, my choice is between something mainstream that I wore before falling into the niche rabbit-hole and perfumes that were discontinued before I could get them.

My choice is Deneuve by Avon. I had only a decant of it shared by a kind friend, and every time I wear it, I feed sad that once my decant is gone, I won’t be able to replace it. Vintage bottles can still be found online, but I wouldn’t trust it to be in a wearable condition. It is a wonderful green chypre. You might like it or not, but when you smell it you know that what you smell is a real perfume and not some conceptual art or abstract scented product. If I could, I would have magically conjured a bottle of Deneuve.

 

How about you?

What Perfume Would You Get Back If You Could?