Author: Undina

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New Year Resolutions: May

I’m still on the course of wearing one of my favorite perfumes at least a couple of times a week. This month on most occasions I did wear those perfumes and didn’t just test or use them for a comparison. On one hand, it allows me to enjoy perfumes that I love more often. On the other, it leaves me less time for testing.

May StatsQuick May stats:

* Different perfumes worn/tested: 55 (-5) on 70 occasions;
* Favorite perfumes worn: 15 on 23 occasions (+7);
* Perfumes I tried for the first time: 17 (-9). Loved 2 (unfortunately, both are vintage – Dioressense and Diorling), liked 5, disliked 5 and on 5 was undecided;
* Perfume house I wore most often: Frederic Malle and Sonoma Scent Studio (I wore perfumes from those on 6 and 5 different occasions correspondingly)
* Perfume house I tested the most: Yves Rocher (for the second weeklong test drive)
* Most popular notes1: top – (not counting bergamot) mandarin and rose; middle – rose and jasmine followed really closely by iris root; base – musk and sandalwood.

While composing that statistics I also found several of my favorite perfumes that I’ve been neglecting for a long time. I didn’t wear elle by Yves Saint Laurent and Lotus Blossom & Water Lily by Jo Malone for at least six month. It can be explained partially by the fact that I consider them both summer fragrances and it’s barely spring now in our area. But I still feel bad: I should get them some attention.

Are there any of your favorite perfumes that you weren’t spending any time with for many months?

1 Excludes those perfumes that I tried for the first time not to skew the picture of the notes/seasons correlation.

Image: my own

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“Here’s a photo I’ve been looking for…”: Sweet Milk by Jo Malone

… the sense of smell can be extraordinarily evocative, bringing back pictures as sharp as photographs of scenes that had left the conscious mind.
Thalassa Cruso

I like Jo Malone‘s colognes. I own more full bottles of this brand than of any other. And then some decants and sample sprays. One way or another there are fourteen scents by Jo Malone in my collection. Not being familiar with the limited edition concept in the past, I’ve missed some of the perfumes I wish I haven’t. So this time I went to a store as soon as I read the new limited edition Tea Collection by Jo Malone became available.

Sweet Milk by Jo MaloneIt was an interesting idea – tea party components in a bottle. I concentrated on two “main” scents – Assam & Grapefruit (bought it) and Earl Grey & Cucumber (still thinking about getting it); I dismissed Fresh Mint Leaf and Sweet Lemon as nice but too simple; as to the Sweet Milk scent, it piqued my curiosity because it smelled … differently but I didn’t think I would like it. I sprayed it on my wrist just to see how it developed on the skin. And as I was sniffing it repeatedly, not only the scent but also my childhood memories started developing. And in no time my mind conjured vivid pictures from the past.

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WTD, Episode 2.6: Nature by Yves Rocher

Nature by Yves RocherNature was the first perfume I bought from Yves Rocher. Many years ago I found it in a store and fell in love with it. I liked everything about it – the scent, the bottle and even the name. I didn’t like the price: Yves Rocher was an expensive brand in the country where I lived back then. But I was drawn to that leaflike bottle and after two-three staring matches with it in a showcase I built up the nerve to approach it. I bought  a mini bottle which cost me more than I’ve ever paid afterwards for any full size bottle from Yves Rocher. But that was all I could afford at the time and I felt very happy. The small bottle on the picture is that first bottle of Nature perfume. It’s almost 20 years old.

In a couple of years after moving to the U.S., I discovered Yves Rocher’s website and ordered a full bottle of Nature EdP. It became my favorite spring-summer scent. I went through almost the entire bottle but it was too large and came in a splash version with a stopper. So even though I was very careful with decanting it for a daily use, the remaining 20% of juice went off. By that time the perfume was gone from the U.S. market. I was sad but I didn’t think I could do anything about it (eBay came into my life much later).

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WTD, Episode 2.5: Voile d’Ambre and Vanille Noire by Yves Rocher

One day, not too long ago, I wasn’t feeling well and for the most part of that day I stayed “perfumeless.” Since for me it’s a very unusual situation, I felt there was something missing. I was thinking for a while on the scent to choose: on one hand, I wanted something nice and comforting – so trying anything new was completely out of question; on the other hand, I was afraid to ruin one of my favorites by wearing them while I was sick. So I made a slightly cowardly choice: I chose perfume, which I knew was pleasant and which I liked when I wore it before. And at the same time I wouldn’t have been upset too much if I’d hated my $5 mini bottle afterwards. It hasn’t happened. The perfume got me through my bad day without living unpleasant associations. I’m grateful to it and ashamed a little. That day I’d chosen…

Voile d'Ambre & Vanilla Noire by Yves Rocher

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WTD, Episode 2.4: In the Search of the Perfect Lilac

LilacsThis year’s Lilac Festival in Highland Park in Rochester finally opened yesterday (after several days of cancellation because of rain). I decided to do a combined episode of my Yves Rocher’s weeklong test drive and single note exploration “not-a-review” for lilac scents.

I love lilacs. As in flowers. This is one of a few things that I miss from my “previous life”. Where I used to live lilacs were blooming all over the city in May. Most flowers in a panicle have just 4 petals so if you were to find a five-lobed flower you would eat it and make a wish. I do not remember either what wishes I used to make or if any of those came true but I can still remember the taste of those flowers. I bet over the years between all my friends we’d eaten more than one bush.

It’s almost impossible to come across lilacs where I live now; I saw them two times in flower shops with a price tag… around $40 for a single (and not too spectacular) small branch. I heard of a couple of places within a reasonable drive where I might see lilacs but I haven’t had a chance to check them out yet. I will.

As to the perfumes… I keep trying to find one I would like to wear but most of those where I can smell this note as a standing out one don’t play well on my skin.

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WTD, Episode 2.3: Rose Absolu and Pur Desir de Rose by Yves Rocher

Rose Absolu and Pur Desir de Rose by Yves RocherRose Absolu – created in 2007 by Christine Nagel, notes include Damascene rose, cinnamon, patchouli and tonka bean. This one is tricky: two out of three times I tried it I couldn’t smell a rose note. Not a good one, not a bad one – none at all. And it’s really disconcerting when it comes from a perfume with this specific name. Once, when tried against another perfume, I think I smelled something close to the rose scent… But it could be a “transferred” effect – the same way as some people’s eyes can “pick up” a color from a piece of clothing. Other than that, Rose Absolu smells nice on the skin and wears very close to it.

Yesterday I read in the Fragrance Friends group on Facebook somebody’s comment that Rose Absolu reminds her Tauer’s Une Rose Vermeille. Even though I immediately felt somehow offended by that suggestion (I don’t know why since I’m not even familiar with that person) I still decided to give it a try. What can I say? With Une Rose Vermeille on one wrist and Rose Absolu on another I think I could smell some rose in Rose Absolu. In addition to the rose both perfumes use tonka bean. That’s it. Beyond those two facts I cannot smell any similarities. Maybe if I were to take a shower and then re-apply only Rose Absolu … But I’m still doubtful.
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WTD, Episode 2.2: Iris Noir, Tendre Jasmin and Naturelle by Yves Rocher

Yves Rocher has caught me with that Secrets d’Essences collection just by the fact of releasing it in similar mini bottles. I had to have them. I bought all five. I do not have too much of a story for most of them so I decided to group them either inside the collection or with other scents.

Iris Noir, Tendre Jasmine and Naturelle

Iris Noir – created in 2007 by Olivier Pescheux and Nathalie Gracia-Cetto, notes include bergamot, coriander, ambrette seed, iris root, patchouli and tonka bean. On my skin it starts sweet (rather gourmand than flower) but then quickly subsides to the generic floral scent. It is pleasant; it smells fine and I can even talk myself into thinking it has some interesting trace scent on my skin several hours into wearing. I just cannot think of any reason to wear it. I tried it from a mini bottle (splash) so maybe it works better sprayed as a body mist but for me it is not interesting enough to look for the ways to make the purchase worthwhile even with YR’s prices and constantly available discounts.

Tendre Jasmin – created in 2008 by Jacques Cavallier, notes include jasmine (jasmine and more jasmine – top, heart and base notes), lemon, mandarin, orange blossom and mimosa. For my nose it starts more green than citrusy and then warms up and blooms. I think it’s a nice perfume but on my skin it’s a little too sweet. Will I wear it? Well… I might. I do not plan on throwing away that cute mini bottle – that’s for sure, but I have no other plans for the perfume.

Naturelle – created in 2008 by Michel Girard, notes include green apple, jasmine, peach blossom, cedar, amber and musk. In addition to these notes mentioned on Yves Rocher site, basenotes lists also lemon, bergamon and marigold – maybe, can’t say it one way or another. Apple is definitely there and it’s not of an annoying type. The scent is very fresh, bright and summery. Drydown is also pleasant enough on the skin. Wearable, uncomplicated, inexpensive. I tested it from a splash mini bottle. And I think it’s the size it’ll stay in – I do not need much more of this perfume.

For real review read Angela’s review for Iris Noir at NST.

I haven’t found a real review I liked for Tendre Jasmine or Naturelle so, as always, feel free to post a link to the relevant posting.

Image: my own

See all episodes:

Weeklong Test Drives, Season 2: Yves Rocher
WTD, Episode 2.1: Venice by Yves Rocher
WTD, Episode 2.3: Rose Absolu and Pur Desir de Rose by Yves Rocher
WTD, Episode 2.4: In the Search of the Perfect Lilac
WTD, Episode 2.5: Voile d’Ambre and Vanille Noire by Yves Rocher
WTD, Episode 2.6: Nature by Yves Rocher

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WTD, Episode 2.1: Venice by Yves Rocher

Twenty year ago, in a pre-ubiquitous Internet era, the only information available for fragrances was what an SA could tell you (in the country where I lived back then – not much) or what you could smell with your own nose (with the experience I had at the time – again, not much). Looking back I realize I was very susceptible to the power of suggestion. I also think that an importance of how a bottle looks in my decision-making process stems out of those earlier years. I’m not talking about the desire to have a real bottle, I’m talking about the fact that sometimes I do not want to even try a perfume if I dislike a bottle design or an ad campaign.

My beautician Polina, a woman who was ten-twelve years older than I was and had a great influence on me, was on a mission to make me to expand my perfume horizons and distract me from the idea of having a signature scent that I entertained in those days. I was very resistant (I had the best perfume in the world, why would I need another one?!) but she was persistent.

I should probably clarify our relationships with her. Those of you who had seen Steel Magnolias can picture better the atmosphere Polina had created at her place. She worked with clients at her apartment, in the downtown of a big industrial city, but it felt as if we were in Truvy’s Beauty Parlor. Even though we, her clients, were paying for haircuts, coloring, manicures and many other services, we were coming there not only for that but to spend time, discuss news and fashion trends, exchange some gossips or recipes and check out the latest eye shadow or lipstick color. She always knew what hair cut each of us should get, what color goes better with our complexions and which shoes style should be worn this season. On many occasions we followed her advices even against our wishes and judgments. Was she always right? Of course not. But we were young and she was very opinionated and compelling. I outgrew her at some point of my life and then moved really far away but I’m still thankful for many things she taught me (she was the one who pushed me into the perfumes exploration direction) and for some things that I learned because of her (standing my ground when it’s easier to compromise or keep silent).

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Weeklong Test Drives, Season 2: Yves Rocher

For the second “season” of my one brand weeklong test drive (for the explanation of the idea of these test drives see Weeklong Test Drives, Season 1: Annick Goutal ) I chose Yves Rocher, the brand from France that focuses on botanical beauty products.

Yves RocherThe U.S. consumers know Yves Rocher as a catalog/website order brand but in Europe there are real YR stores and in one of them 20 years ago I bought my first perfume from this brand.

After I moved to the U.S., I was getting their new perfumes on and off, not thinking much of them: they were cheap (price-wise), not too complex, added to the line and then removed unpredictably. Recently I learned that there were some well-known noses behind at least some of Yves Rocher’s perfumes: Olivier Pescheux, Christine Nagel, Michel Girard, Jacques Cavallier. It hasn’t changed what I think about those perfumes but it was a curious fact. It’s not the most glamorous or thought after brand but I had a really good time with some of their perfumes; so I want to share  those perfumed reflections.

For my WTD I will be “not-a-review”-ing some newer, some older and some discontinued perfumes.

Image: my own

See all episodes:
WTD, Episode 2.1: Venice by Yves Rocher
WTD, Episode 2.2: Iris Noir, Tendre Jasmin and Naturelle by Yves Rocher
WTD, Episode 2.3: Rose Absolu and Pur Desir de Rose by Yves Rocher
WTD, Episode 2.4: In the Search of the Perfect Lilac
WTD, Episode 2.5: Voile d’Ambre and Vanille Noire by Yves Rocher
WTD, Episode 2.6: Nature by Yves Rocher

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Catch of the Day: By Kilian, Diptyque, Ineke and others…

Kilian Hennessy

Kilian Hennessy at SF Saks, 5/7/11

No-no, I didn’t catch Kilian Hennessy (the creator of Kilian Parfums) though I met him last Saturday at Saks Fifth Avenue during the join basenotes-NST San Francisco Spring Sniff event.

It was a private group presentation in the overcrowded by us small room on the second floor of Saks. We were strange visitors for that place but the service was very courteous (which I cannot say about the Hermes boutique we visited earlier that day where one of the SAs almost shoved us aside saying that she needed to make a sale!). Those of us who came earlier got chairs the rest had to stand (most didn’t mind). Champaign was served and then, after a short announcement by the very beautiful Marketing Director of the brand (I’m not sure I remembered her title correctly), there he was – Kilian himself.
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