Olivier Pescheux

Divine Vanille by Essential Parfums
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Divine Vanille by Essential Parfums

Hey crew, In my last order from Fragrance and Art there arrived a bunch of manufacturers samples to try. I also just noticed an Essential Parfums 8x2ml set for under US$20!. Not affiliated in any way but it’s good to know. They have an excellent radar for things I’ll like and this time there were a preponderance of vanilla rich fragrances. Maybe because the north is heading cool but also maybe because I bloody LOVE vanilla. It has so many facets and depths, and rarely disappoints. Divine Vanille by Essential Parfums immediately had me excited by the name alone.

Perfumer Olivier Pescheux is one whose work you definitely know; One Million, Herod, 34 boulevard Saint Germain, and Yohji Homme are just some highlights of his current 123 perfumes in Fragrantica.

Divine Vanille by Essential Parfums

Divine Vanille by Essential Parfums

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Cinnamon, Clary Sage, Black Pepper
Heart: Incense, Osmanthus, Pomarose
Base: Madagascar Vanilla, Tonka Bean, Siam Benzoin, Texas Cedar, Musk, Patchouli

Sometimes I write part of a post and then lose the sample. It stays here, in limbo, till I give up and delete the post or till I find the sample! Well, here we are moths later and I have refound it. I’m so dumb, could easily have come checked this post and found that it ws a grey carded manufacturers sample, not a red box. Who knows what I’ve mixed it up with? So we are here today to FINALLY write about Divine Vanille.

The opening is vanilla rich amber with some bells and whistles. Lightly spiced and a faint scratchy whiff of black pepper keep us firmly in the kitchen but savoury rather than super sweet. We have some South Korean cracker biscuits that are a little like this. A line drawn between the two poles.

As the heart makes itself known I get the rustic greenery of clary sage and subtle hints of osmanthus, that leathery white floral. Still reigning supreme though is the amber. It has started to gain a little smooth earthy patchouli that gives it some grunt, it also takes it into L’Artisan Havana Vanille territory. Add to it some lightweight animalic references and the fragrance remains interesting.

 

Divine Vanille by Essential Parfums

Heading towards dry down and Divine Vanille starts to get sweeter and more cookie in the oven-ish. Held grounded, and even a skew towards masculine, by the various resins. That smokiness giving the cookies a baking feel probably comes from somewhere there too. The patchouli takes itself in and out over time. I find that keeps my nose interested and the fragrance doesn’t send me nose blind.

I REALLY like Divine Vanille. It’s not incredibly ground breaking but it smells so good. Unisex, good longevity and moderate projection. It’s also very well priced, even bargain.

The question is, “Do I have enough vanilla perfumes?” Do you?
Portia x

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WTD, Episode 2.5: Voile d’Ambre and Vanille Noire by Yves Rocher

One day, not too long ago, I wasn’t feeling well and for the most part of that day I stayed “perfumeless.” Since for me it’s a very unusual situation, I felt there was something missing. I was thinking for a while on the scent to choose: on one hand, I wanted something nice and comforting – so trying anything new was completely out of question; on the other hand, I was afraid to ruin one of my favorites by wearing them while I was sick. So I made a slightly cowardly choice: I chose perfume, which I knew was pleasant and which I liked when I wore it before. And at the same time I wouldn’t have been upset too much if I’d hated my $5 mini bottle afterwards. It hasn’t happened. The perfume got me through my bad day without living unpleasant associations. I’m grateful to it and ashamed a little. That day I’d chosen…

Voile d'Ambre & Vanilla Noire by Yves Rocher

Dive in to keep reading…

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WTD, Episode 2.2: Iris Noir, Tendre Jasmin and Naturelle by Yves Rocher

Yves Rocher has caught me with that Secrets d’Essences collection just by the fact of releasing it in similar mini bottles. I had to have them. I bought all five. I do not have too much of a story for most of them so I decided to group them either inside the collection or with other scents.

Iris Noir, Tendre Jasmine and Naturelle

Iris Noir – created in 2007 by Olivier Pescheux and Nathalie Gracia-Cetto, notes include bergamot, coriander, ambrette seed, iris root, patchouli and tonka bean. On my skin it starts sweet (rather gourmand than flower) but then quickly subsides to the generic floral scent. It is pleasant; it smells fine and I can even talk myself into thinking it has some interesting trace scent on my skin several hours into wearing. I just cannot think of any reason to wear it. I tried it from a mini bottle (splash) so maybe it works better sprayed as a body mist but for me it is not interesting enough to look for the ways to make the purchase worthwhile even with YR’s prices and constantly available discounts.

Tendre Jasmin – created in 2008 by Jacques Cavallier, notes include jasmine (jasmine and more jasmine – top, heart and base notes), lemon, mandarin, orange blossom and mimosa. For my nose it starts more green than citrusy and then warms up and blooms. I think it’s a nice perfume but on my skin it’s a little too sweet. Will I wear it? Well… I might. I do not plan on throwing away that cute mini bottle – that’s for sure, but I have no other plans for the perfume.

Naturelle – created in 2008 by Michel Girard, notes include green apple, jasmine, peach blossom, cedar, amber and musk. In addition to these notes mentioned on Yves Rocher site, basenotes lists also lemon, bergamon and marigold – maybe, can’t say it one way or another. Apple is definitely there and it’s not of an annoying type. The scent is very fresh, bright and summery. Drydown is also pleasant enough on the skin. Wearable, uncomplicated, inexpensive. I tested it from a splash mini bottle. And I think it’s the size it’ll stay in – I do not need much more of this perfume.

For real review read Angela’s review for Iris Noir at NST.

I haven’t found a real review I liked for Tendre Jasmine or Naturelle so, as always, feel free to post a link to the relevant posting.

Image: my own

See all episodes:

Weeklong Test Drives, Season 2: Yves Rocher
WTD, Episode 2.1: Venice by Yves Rocher
WTD, Episode 2.3: Rose Absolu and Pur Desir de Rose by Yves Rocher
WTD, Episode 2.4: In the Search of the Perfect Lilac
WTD, Episode 2.5: Voile d’Ambre and Vanille Noire by Yves Rocher
WTD, Episode 2.6: Nature by Yves Rocher