February 8, 2022 by Undina

Scent Semantics #4: TASTE

Today is the forth episode of the collaboration of six bloggers: Portia (A Bottled Rose), Elena (The Plum Girl), Sheila (Alembicated Genie), Daisy (eau là là !), Old Herbaceous (Serenity Now Scents and Sensibilities) and Undina (Undina’s Looking Glass).

Most of you probably already know that, but just a quick explanation for the project: once a month one of us selects a word (any part of speech, no guidelines), and we all try to find and describe a perfume association that we come up with. The initial idea was to choose just one perfume, but it was a guideline, not a strict rule – so, anything goes.

* * *

This month’s word is: TASTE

Finally, we’ve got a word that was along the line of what I expected when we were discussing the collaboration. I mean, not this specific word, but the form. In my mind, the words we would be choosing were nouns, singular. Why? Because that was how it was traditionally done for crossword puzzles in my native language. I’ve never got used to the local way of using different word forms, and The New York Times crosswords have never made sense to me. So, it was a noun! Has it made it easier? Nope. Had I known in advance that we’d have this word, I would have saved Angel Taste of Fragrance for today. And it would have been very fitting both to the topic and the occasion of honoring Mugler‘s memory. But I “used” it up already for one of the previous episodes. (Interestingly, Mugler’s Angel was the first perfume that kept popping up in my head in response to each next word offered for the project. Think of it, isn’t it “brave,” “angelic” and “luscious”? And, as the first gourmand, of course, I could make parallels with “taste.”) So, since the simple route wasn’t available any longer, I kept thinking about it, and as the result, I came up with a story that takes a somewhat unexpected twist on the topic. (And you tell me if reading this month’s word you expected anything like that.)

* * *

I don’t remember exactly how young I was: it was during my middle school, age before any dating started (at least customary for that time and place), but with romantic feelings in their pre-blooming phase and the onset of the relationships building. When thinking about this time, I imagine characters from the King‘s book It or the recent TV show Stranger Things. While reading the story below, it is important to remember that we were children/pre-teens.

N. was one grade above me. He wasn’t a bad boy (I’ve never been attracted to those) but rather an artistic type. I remember that he had a good voice and impossibly beautiful brown eyes. I wasn’t interested in him (at that time I was still unrequitedly in love with my classmate), but he started demonstrating some interest in me: I would be catching his gaze at me in the school corridors during the breaks.

Back then and there, you would expect a boy to look away once his glance was “caught,” if he was shy, or a girl to avert her eyes pretending not to notice the attention (a ritual of submissive modesty). N. wasn’t shy. And I’ve never been submissive. So, once I realized that he was staring, I took it as a challenge and stared back. It became a game for the next several months. I don’t remember if we had any other communications, but any day when our scheduled classes happen to be on the same floor, we would engage in the eye “sparring.” Additional points went to the one who didn’t blink first during those encounters. I was still sweet on my classmate, but these silent duels became a part of my daily routine boosting my self-confidence and raising my status among my girlfriends.

After the end of the school year, we had a couple of weeks of strange semi-compulsory activities: children from all classes from one or two grades were bussed to a summer camp outside of the city where we would do some agriculture work for several hours in the morning and then have sports, music and other group activities in the evening. My main romantic interest’s parents managed to excuse him from these exercises, but most of my friends were going to be there, so I didn’t mind going. And I was pleased to find out that N. was also on that trip: our silent matches would continue!

But suddenly something unexpected happened: within a day or two, N. joined a small group (6-7 girls and boys, my class-mates) that we formed at the camp (which was quite unusual since he was older – so, the boys from our group were happy to include him and girls didn’t mind either), then he completely lost any interest in me and switched his full attention to another girl from our group, V. I watched him performing the same routine of watching her attentively, catching her eyes and making sure she notices this. And it was all intensified by the fact that we were spending most of the time together.

I was crushed and confused, both by what was happening and my reaction to it. I knew that I wasn’t romantically interested in him, and going out with him wasn’t in my plans or dreams. But he was my admirer! And suddenly he wasn’t. I was hurting. And the worst part was that saving my pride, I had to hide those feelings. I remember that all I wanted was to get back home or at least to spend some time alone to cry. Ironically, I had so many friends in my class, that I just couldn’t get any time on my own: someone would immediately join me. So, I pretended that nothing had happened and kept spending time in that group with my ex-admirer, V. who had quickly fallen for his charm, and the boys who were clearly impressed by his maturity and bravery to express his feelings. Every evening, we would gather on the porch of one of the cabins where we stayed, play some games, laugh and sing. N. had a great voice. And he would sing with us, but you could tell that he was singing for V. while not taking off his beautiful brown eyes of her. And she looked beautiful and happy. If I’m not mistaken, their relationships progressed to the public hand-holding territory.

And then V. got sick, and her parents took her home several days before the end of the camp. That’s where the next chapter started. I did mention that V. was an artistic type, right? He was publicly suffering in such a way that we all, including me who came to terms with his change of heart, my other girlfriends and our boys, were sympathizing with him and trying to cheer him up. He was sighing, singing sad songs (especially the one that, by coincidence, had the name V. in it, which he previously sang to V.) and even holding a scarf she forgot when leaving. And then, as the oldest of us all, one evening he announced that he needs to drink (to drown his sorrows, I think, though don’t remember). Not only at that age, but for several years after that none of us, most likely, drank anything (unless trying something at home from the parents’ glasses). And of course, there was absolutely no alcohol at the camp. But.

In the country where I grew up, there was a well-known phenomenon of drinking surrogate alcohol. Of course, it was something in which people engaged when they didn’t have other choices (e.g., alcoholics or people in incarceration), and not only for us, children from good families, but in general for the majority of the population, it was something from the marginal subculture. But we all knew about it. So, when N. proudly produced a bottle of the aftershave (I’m not sure why he had it with him – I don’t think he was even shaving yet), none of us was really surprised.

This is not the exact bottle of what he had (his one was blue if I’m not mistaken), but it’s the closest I could find online. Back then it was a hard(er) to get aftershave from Poland, so on its own, it was impressive. I don’t remember what was used instead of a shot glass, I just know that we didn’t drink it from the bottle itself.

I was the only girl in our group who made a sip or two of that blue liquid. I’m not sure what I was trying to prove, but for some reason it was important to me not to blink, so to speak, in that strange game. I had nothing less exotic to compare that WARS aftershave to, but it tasted yucky – about which we all agreed. But we all felt a little proud of being such a badass. And I think it did cheer up N a little.

* * *

Over the next two months of the summer break I completely forgot about N. When we came back to school, I noticed that N. and V. did not have any communications any longer, but I’ve never learned what had happened (if anything). And when during one of the bus trips where, for whatever reason, N. was again a part of our group, we started singing that song, I was watching N. and V.: he was completely nonchalant, and she was obviously hurting. His parents moved soon, so he transferred to another school, and I’ve never met him either as a teenager or adult. I wonder who he grew up to be.

* * *

I had never tried to drink another cologne or perfume since, but I think I still can imagine that taste.

February 5, 2022 by Undina

Saturday Question: What Do You Consider A Decant?

There are almost no doubts when it comes to full bottles. I say “almost” because I could never figure out how to classify 10-15 ml bottles of pure parfums. But other than that, it’s clear. Travel bottles are also self-explanatory. But what about decants?

Saturday Question #102:

What Do You Consider A Decant?

Clearly, any amount of perfume transferred from the original brand’s bottle into a generic vessel is a decant by definition. But on your personal scale, where does the demarcation line go between a sample and a decant?

My Answer

When I tried to answer my own question, I realized that my logic isn’t that straightforward. In my perfume database, everything under 2 ml I classify as a small sample; 2 ml+ is marked as a large sample; 5ml and up is a small decant; and everything 10 ml and above is a large decant.

But when talking to others, I consider 2.5 ml and below as a sample, and everything larger is a decant (terminology-wise, I always try to talk in ml).

Is it important? Not on its own, though from my experience I learned that when dealing with others, it might be useful to establish a common ground. I remember how many years ago I was swapping perfumes with another perfumista. It wasn’t a formal swap but rather a friendly exchange of perfumes one of us had and another wanted to try. So, we didn’t do any usual dance people do for a formal swap. We just discussed what we would exchange, the word “dacant” was used during email communications, and then packages went to their destinations. It was one of the first few perfume exchanges I’d done ever. So, I carefully decanted and packed several 4-5 ml spray bottles with perfumes we discussed and was eagerly awaiting for the package with treasures for me. Back then, my collection was much smaller, and I was regularly wearing perfumes from samples/decants. So, you can imagine my disappointment when I unpacked 4 or 5 half-full 1 ml dabbers. In my swapping pal’s defense, she was coming from the Black Phoenix Alchemy Lab World where, as I know, it was customary to exchange 0.2-0.3 ml (since those were oils sold in small bottles to start with).

Since then, I always talk milliliters, even though now if I exchange anything with anyone, it’s with people to whom I don’t mind sending samples/decants without getting anything in return, so terminology is immaterial. Ironically, these days I prefer getting 0.7-1 ml samples for most perfumes I want to try and rarely 2.5-3 ml decants of those that I consider buying but want to wear a couple of times first.

What Do You Consider A Decant?

February 2, 2022 by Undina

Pickles and Reglisse Noire

Recently, in the post for the 11^th anniversary of this blog, I invited my regular readers to do a guest post on Undina’s Looking Glass. When Brigitte contacted me to accept the invitation, I didn’t realize that she wasn’t going to write the post herself, but rather she was an agent of a talented feline. (Undina)

* * *

Hi perfume pals! My name is Pickles. I spent the first seven years of my life in a no-kill shelter until I found my forever family two years ago.

Like Rusty, I earn treats by being a fragrance model for my Nana. My very first photoshoot was for Reglisse Noire by 1000 Flowers. Reglisse Noire is one of my Nana’s all-time favorite fragrances, and she has several bottles of it (a vintage travel bottle from Portia, a vintage splash bottle from AnnieA and the current formulation of bottle number 4). My Nana tells me that she thinks of me when wearing it because it’s black licorice (reglisse noire) and sweet but sassy like me. A unique cacophony of notes (bergamot, spearmint, fresh ozone, shiso leaf, white pepper, black licorice, ginger, allspice, star anise, cocoa, patchouli, vetiver, musk, cedarwood and vanilla) that play extraordinarily well together. “An under the radar masterpiece,” to quote my Nana.

I’m curious to know if any of you have tried Reglisse Noire? What’s your favorite licorice fragrance?

I look forward to popping in from time to time to visit with Rusty, Undina and all of my Nana’s perfume pals here on Undina’s Looking Glass. Thanks for inviting me. Until next time, furry kisses and purrs.

Xoxo

Pickles Bella

January 29, 2022 by Undina

Saturday Question: Do You Have Any Mugler Perfumes In Your Collection?

Since the sad news earlier this week of Thierry Mugler passing away, Perfumeland was paying tribute to his contribution to the perfume landscape of the Western world. So, I decided that we could do our own remembrance topic.

Saturday Question #101:

Do You Have Any Mugler Perfumes In Your Collection?

It would we hard to find any perfumista who isn’t familiar with the most famous Mugler‘s perfume – Angel. And since this is one of the brands easily available in many stores, it doesn’t take much to get to try perfumes from the brand. But do you own any of this brand’s perfumes? We’re talking any size from a full bottle to decants – as long as you paid for it.

My Answer

I like the brand. I still own the first bottle of Angel that I bought about 20 years ago. I’m not sure that even when I bought it, it still was the original formulation (but back then I didn’t even think that a brand can produce another formulation of perfume under the same name, in the same packaging), but whatever it was, I loved it when I bought it, and I can tell that the scent has changed since when I bought it. It didn’t turn (I don’t think the formula contains anything that can go rancid), but something is different (and it’s not only the color of the juice). It’s still nice, and I wear it from time to time (but strictly when I stay at home). The last time I wore it was last Monday after I heard the news.

Since I loved Angel, I also bought Angel Taste of Fragrance. It’s nice, I like it and wear from time to time. At home. The only other full bottle from the brand that I have is A MEN Pure Havane that I bought for my vSO (I should probably spray it on him this weekend).

I liked Womanity, and thought of getting a small bottle of it, but settled for a mini bottle, a part of the set that also includes Angel, Angel EdT and Alien, none of which I wear. I have small decants of Oriental Express, Over The Musk and Supra Floral: I like wearing these from time to time, but I don’t think I’ll ever go for a bottle.

For a while I was obsessed with the coffret the brand created for Süskind‘s novel Perfumer, but not only the price was completely outside of what I could pay for perfume back then (or would pay now even though I could), but it wasn’t even available in the US, so I had to let it go.

How about you?

Do You Have Any Mugler Perfumes In Your Collection?

January 24, 2022 by Undina

Up To 11?

Yes, it has been another year. Today Undina’s Looking Glass turns 11. Since my blog’s anniversary falls that close to New Year, by this time, as usually, I’ve already published my yearly perfume stats. So, today I’ll peek into my blog’s statistics.

I don’t do that too often since I’ve never intended this blog to be anything but a private place to talk to friends (and make new ones). That’s why I only smile every time I get the next email offering to “undina.com team” to boost this blog’s SEO or to place a “guest post” of some marketing type.

But this time I checked it out just to confirm my feeling that this year was the most active in the history of the blog. And I was right: “with a little help from my friend” Portia, Undina’s Looking Glass published 118 posts. It comes to 2 posts per week with an extra post occasionally. For me, it feels like an ideal flow that allows my friends and readers to participate whenever they like the topic or feel like doing so but isn’t too fast-paced where one feels “left behind” if they were to comment a day or two (or a week) later.

Of course, non-commercial blogs are mostly about their authors and for their self-expression. But as with those trees falling unattended in proverbial forests, without you, my readers, this would have been a very lonely journey. So, I’m extremely grateful to all of you who comes back to engage in the conversation, validates my thoughts, ensures a steady flow of treats coming Rusty’s way (I try to reward him for every compliment he gets on my blog for his participation) and shares their experiences. Though, to tell the truth, I would love my readers to communicate more with each other and not just with me.

Rusty and Mugler Angel Taste of Fragrance

Speaking of communication with each other. I’m not sure if this idea will interest any of you, and my blog isn’t extremely popular or actively visited (that SEO won’t improve on its own!), but if any of my regular readers who do not have their own blogs but have a perfume story to tell would like to publish a guest post on ULG (without any further commitment of obligations), please contact me via email from the About Me page. If you’re not much of a writer but have a bunch of perfume (or your pet) pictures that didn’t get enough attention when you published them on Instagram (or you do not have an Instagram account) and you’d like to do a post here with a mosaic of your photos and a link to your IG account, I invite you as well. Any other ideas along these lines are also welcome. Let’s together make Undina’s Looking Glass 12^th year even more active.

But even if everything else stays “as is,” I still plan to keep going. I enjoy having this blog, trying new perfumes and talking to all of you – be that every week or just once in a while.

January 22, 2022 by Undina

Saturday Question: Do You Wear Perfume When Working Out? (And Are You Working Out?)

By now, New Year resolutions about getting fit, if any of you had made them, have been already broken, and most of us should be back to the “status quo” (whatever it was pre-resolution), so it should be a good time to discuss the topic(s).

Saturday Question #100:

Do You Wear Perfume When Working Out?

I realize that nobody would intentionally try to wash away perfume before working out if they happen to wear it earlier (or would you?), but what if for whatever reason before exercising you were “commando” perfume-wise – would you apply anything before going to somewhere to exercise or starting it at home? If yes, do you have any special perfumes or types of perfumes that you choose for that? If no, what’s the reason?

Bonus questions: Are you working out regularly? If yes, what do you do? If no, do you want to? Do you plan to? Do you have any favorite YouTube channels for exercising?

My Answer

While I never really enjoyed exercising, when I used to do it regularly (around the time when I started this blog), I discovered at some point that some perfumes bloomed perfectly in hot environment of Bikram yoga classes (for several years my post about it, Body Heat: Perfumes under Extreme Temperatures, was one of the most visited posts on the blog – of course, not for the content itself but because of the “Kathleen Turner body” search phrase that surprisingly a lot of people used back then).

In the recent years, due to laziness and health issues, my physical activity got to such a level where I wouldn’t call it “exercising” – so, it’s safe to say that I wasn’t working out while wearing my perfumes.

I started trying to get back to exercising before the New Year (just not to make those NY resolutions to break them later). I don’t do much: just some light stretching and a little bit of strength building. And since the only time I can make myself to do at least something is after my work day (when it ends at manageable time), and that is sometimes the first time I can pause, think about perfume and apply it, I again started combining these two activities. As I don’t disturb anyone but Rusty, who objects even more to the activity itself, I am not being mindful of my choices and wear whatever I feel like that day.

I have a quibble about many YouTube exercise videos “for beginners” that I was able to find: as someone who at some point was in a much better shape, now suffers from back issues (and plainly getting older) and tries take it slowly, I can tell that many of those stretches and yoga poses are not even close to be beginner-friendly. Unfortunately, it looks like I’ll have to seek some professional help to figure out what I can do without hurting myself. Meanwhile, it seems like my body reacts the best to the lying flat cat pose (unfortunately, extra pounds on me look not as cute as on Rusty).

Do You Wear Perfume When Working Out?

January 20, 2022 by Undina

Brand Appreciation: INEKE

Many years ago, I planned to run a series of posts to feature brands that I wanted to spotlight – not because they’ve released the newest popular perfume or got some award but just because. It didn’t materialize, and I published just one post. Now I decided to come back to that idea*. And today’s choice is a local to me (San Francisco-based) niche brand named after its owner and perfumer: INEKE.

I’m not sure why this brand doesn’t get more love. I’m talking not as much of “hardcore perfumistas” with hundreds of uber-expensive uber-niche perfumes in their collection (not that I wouldn’t expect Ineke perfumes to be found there) but rather about perfume enthusiasts who clear out TJ Max perfume shelves or shop “bargain basement” of online discounters. In my opinion, INEKE has all the markers of a great brand for both “civilians” and people who report in the NST’s quarterly polls more than 15 bottles purchases.

INEKE’s perfumes are pleasant and pleasing; maybe not revolutionary or daring, but at the same time they are head above fruity-floral mass-market concoctions or cookie-cutter creations from the plethora of recent “niche” brands.

INEKE’s packaging is superb: bottles, boxes and samples are all of the good quality and tastefully decorated.

INEKE’s prices are almost perfumista-free – $125 for 75 ml, which is quite reasonable if you like a scent.

INEKE has a flexible sampling program: one can get a set of 7 samples for $30 (which includes a $15 coupon for the future full-size bottle purchase) or buy individual samples for $5.

* * *

I wrote before about two of my favorite perfumes from this brand: four months after I wrote about Hothouse Flower, a bottle of it joined my collection. And five years later, I bought Idyllwild and published a story about it.

But somehow, I’ve never written about the first perfume from this brand that I’ve ever bought: Field Notes From Paris.

This perfume was launched in 2009. Notes include coriander seed, orange flower, bergamot, tobacco flower & leaf, patchouli, cedar, tonka bean, leather, beeswax and vanilla. Perfumer: Ineke Ruhland.

Though Field Notes From Paris is leaning a tad masculine, I enjoy its cologne-y freshness in the opening, but even more, I like the woody development. Reading “orange flower,” “tonka bean” and “vanilla,” one would expect more sweetness from this perfume. It does get sweeter 60 minutes into development, but for my nose, the sweetness comes from a tobacco leaf (not fully dried type) and not from those usual suspects. Field Notes From Paris has good longevity, especially on fabric: once I remember it surviving a washing machine on my blouse. But on my skin, it’s also quite good.

From the sample set that I bought first time (perfume names from A to G), I liked Fields Notes From Paris the most, and soon I found and bought a partial bottle from one of the FB groups. When my father, who usually wore Chanel, Jo Malone and Creed, asked me to recommend him something interesting and unusual, I figured out that he wouldn’t be going to stores to ask for and test perfumes, were I to suggest anything new. So, instead, I did what probably any of you would do: I made him a set of small decants from perfumes I thought he might be interested in and added a couple of Diptyque samples I happened to have. After Rusty approved my choices, I sent the package to my father.

Over time he went through all the decants that I prepared for him, and when I visited, he showed me two that he liked the most. One of them was Field Notes From Paris. So, for his birthday last week, I got him a bottle of this perfume. I hope he’ll enjoy wearing it.

Now I’m looking forward to their next letter – K.

Images: my own

* Disclaimer: it is not a sponsored post. Also, I’ve never received any promotional or free items from the brand (if not to count a hand-made sample I got at the event once, but it wasn’t as a blogger).

January 15, 2022 by Undina

Saturday Question: What Perfume Bottles Got Better After The Re-design?

We habitually lament perfume reformulation of perfumes. Change in packaging often goes hand-in-hand with the changes in how perfume smells (and almost always it’s not a positive change). But what if we were to look only at bottles themselves leaving aside negative connotations of the whole process of repackaging?

Saturday Question #99:

What Perfume Bottles Got Better After The Re-design?

Can you think of any single perfume or brand’s bottles in general the second (or third) change to which you think was an improvement?

A bonus question: name 1-3 brands/perfumes where you disagree with the change and wish they haven’t done it. Don’t be “greedy”: do not do the whole laundry list of grievances. If you agree with someone else’s choice, add your negative vote to their comment – that will leave you more chances to scold the offending brand that hasn’t been named yet.

My Answer

I’m still lamenting the loss of those beautiful colored flutes of Annick Goutal, and I think that Teo Cabanel‘s glass bottles for their classic line were more attractive than the current “metallic” renditions. But I can think of at least one line whose repackaging increased their appeal to me: Mona di Orio. I know that some perfumistas preferred their champagne-bottle-style cap, but for my personal aesthetics, their second bottles interpretation for the line is much more attractive.

What do you think?

What Perfume Bottles Got Better After The Re-design?

January 8, 2022 by Undina

Saturday Question: Do You Keep Any Perfume Records? (And My 2021 Year Round-up Entertaining Statistics)

A couple of weeks ago, in another SQ post, Jyotsna suggested this question. And I decided it was a good idea to combine it with my yearly statistics post.

Saturday Question #98:

Do You Keep Any Perfume Records?

Do you have a spreadsheet of your entire collection? Or maybe you’re tracking them somewhere online, as a wardrobe in one of the perfume forums? Do you record what you wear or test? Or, maybe, what you buy?

If yes, how meticulous are you? If no, do you have a desire/urge to do it?

My Answer

As many of you probably know already, I record everything related to my perfume hobby in a database. If anyone hasn’t seen it yet and is curious, in my 2017 Year Round-up post I told more about that database and shared some screenshots. Data that I record there allows me to run these yearly calculations to share with my readers. I try to record what I wear or test daily (in the last year’s statistics post, I provided an infographic that explains wear vs test concept), but some days I don’t get to the home computer where I have that database, so then later I would try to catch up for several days, if I remember what it was.

In 2021, compared to 2020, I wore fewer perfumes (178 vs 210) from fewer brands (79 vs 96) on fewer occasions (291 vs 367). It means that for 2.5 months during 2021 I didn’t wear perfumes. It doesn’t mean that I was completely scentless on those days: if not to count several occasions when I wasn’t feeling well because of the vaccination shots, I used those days to test perfumes new to me or re-test those that I’ve previously tested. But even testing went down in 2021 (compared to 2020): I tested/re-tested 180 perfumes (327) from 68 brands (126).

My traditional Top 10 brands worn chart has the same 7 brands that keep re-appearing in my yearly posts for the last 9 years in slightly different order: Ormonde Jayne, Guerlain, Amouage, Tom Ford, Jo Malone, Chanel and Serge Lutens. The remaining three brands are new on that chart: Puredistance, Olfactive Studio and Masque Milano.

Nose Prose just did a post on the first week of the project she runs this month: to wear different perfume for each day. When I first read about it, I was almost surprised: how else? I’m so used to my routine of not repeating the same perfume for months, that I forgot that many people, even perfumistas, often rotate through some small subset of perfumes (and I’m not even talking about Brigitte who might wear the same perfume for weeks). This year, out of 178 perfumes that I wore 110 made their appearance just once. And perfume that I wore most often, Ormonde Jayne Ta’if, I wore only 6 times (plus 3 times I wore Ta’if Elixir).

The only aspect where I “improved” is the number of 2021 releases that I tested – 38 vs 22 (2020) vs 16 (2019). The list of my Top 5 new releases for 2021 is in the previous SQ post.

Now it’s your turn.

Do You Keep Any Perfume Records?

January 4, 2022 by Undina

Scent Semantics #3: LUSCIOUS

Today is the third episode of the collaboration of six bloggers: Portia (A Bottled Rose), Elena (The Plum Girl), Sheila (Alembicated Genie), Daisy (eau là là !), Old Herbaceous (Serenity Now Scents and Sensibilities) and Undina (Undina’s Looking Glass).

* * *

This month’s word is: LUSCIOUS

I read the word. I listened to my inner voice. Nope. Nothing. I don’t think I’ve ever used this word. So, not a single association, if not to count the name of the online perfume store – Luscious Cargo, but I’m not sure I’ve ever bought even samples from them. I decided to try a more straightforward approach: dictionary.

Let’s see what can be applicable to perfumes: “highly pleasing to the […] smell, richly adorned; luxurious and sweet to excess.”

This is something to work with.

* * *

Created by Alienor Massenet in 2018 for Floraïku, I Am Not A Flower fits well that description. According to the brand’s site, I Am Not A Flower includes main notes of Ginger oil, Amber oil and Sandalwood oil, as well as additional notes of Rose, Vanilla, Sandalwood Essence and Patchouli Essence. Several other sites, including all major perfume forums and Harrod’s, list also “white oud” and do not mention the additional notes. Either they all got a wrong list from the same source or the brand has changed the description, but I can’t smell agarwood. And since I usually do not like it in perfumes, I assume I would have noticed its presence.

I have previously complained about Floraiku’s minimalism when it comes to revealing notes, so I feel strange complaining now about having “extras,” but I cannot smell either rose or patchouli. Why would they mention or use rose in perfume with the chosen name is puzzling. Maybe they were afraid it wouldn’t smell as sweet?..

I Am Not A Flower is quite pleasing to the smell; its packaging is luxurious and richly adorned; it is sweet; and in the drydown one could probably add that “to excess” part.

I always thought that Floraiku perfumes were overpriced for what they were, so I didn’t really plan on buying any when I stopped by the brand’s booth at the Harrod’s Salon de Parfums. I tried the only two perfumes from the line that I hadn’t tried before. I Am Not A Flower was one of them, and I liked it immediately. At that time, it was “Harrod’s exclusive,” so for a short period of time I considered purchasing it as perfume from that trip. But it was more than twice as expensive as the “regular” Floraiku perfumes, and I couldn’t justify that price.

I Am Not A Flower would have stayed just a pleasant memory of that trip if it weren’t for an unexpected find: one of the perfume sites had it listed, probably by mistake, for the same price other Floraiku perfumes were sold, and I got a significant discount on top of it. I couldn’t pass on that deal.

I Am Not A Flower is luscious woody amber perfume with almost caramelized ginger. It is sweet and rather feminine. And it stays long on my skin, though close to it.

What Floraiku does perfectly is packaging: it is beautifully made and very luxurious, as it should be with expensive perfumes. I know that some perfumistas questioned that massive cap, so I want to clarify that it doesn’t have to be used on the bottle: the set comes with a replacement regular cap, and the one that you see on the picture above becomes a holder for the included into the set 10 ml travel spray with its own cap (see the picture below).

I Am Not A Flower is pleasing to all senses, I do not have anything else that smells similar, and I enjoy owning and wearing it. But it is not phenomenal, so I would have never paid full price for it. In general, I think that it makes sense only as a luxury item for consumers who habitually buy those for $600+ for yourself or as gifts. But as luxury items go, in my opinion, Floraiku perfumes are impeccable.

Images: my own

Undina's Looking Glass

Perfumed Reflections of Life

Author: Undina

Scent Semantics #4: TASTE