Gentry Jockey Club Oriza L. Legrand

Gentry Jockey Club Oriza L. Legrand

Heya Crew. Since their resurrection I’ve loved and followed the continuing brilliance of the Oriza L. Legrand house. It’s a house that has its fair share of devotees but if the style doesn’t work for you then maybe only three or four of their oeuvre will smell good to and on you. Luckily I love powdery, billowing, over the top glamstrosities that wear divinely on men and women alike. Actually wearing a big fluffy powder bomb feels unbelievably subversive as I wander the shops and mall here in Parramatta, or even in Sydney CBD. I feel like we perfumed gents are living in a golden age where not only the gays but the whole bro-niverse is smelling fine. So my wafts are not out of place, just regular Joe. Gentry Jockey Club is one fragrance that might fit for you if the Oriza main body of work isn’t your style.

Gentry Jockey Club by Oriza L. Legrand 2017

Gentry Jockey Club Oriza L. Legrand

Oriza L Legrand gives these featured accords:
Top: Ylang, Saffron
Heart: Iris Pallida, Leathery notes, Birch essence
Base: Sandalwood, Tonka Bean, Vetiver.

That beautiful, creamy ylang, sandalwood and dry cardboard/lipstick iris are totally contrasted by the scratchy saffron and birch. While Gentry Jockey Club is a leather fragrance it is also so much more. PLUS there’s nary a hint of powder anywhere near this perfume.

Things I’m surprised are not in the note list, plum, raspberry or some dark sweet fruit and resins like myrrh, labdanum or even elemi. The notes do not seem to cover the wealth of breadth Gentry Jockey Club displays. It’s in the same wheelhouse as Daim Blond or Bottega Veneta EdP but does it so differently. Dryer, less fashion and more… it’s not like working leather, or even boots. I’m really finding it difficult to pigeon hole. Yes leather, yes some fruit, some smoky resin, plush and creamy ylang and sandalwood but with zero Samsara feel. Through the heart and into the base I get a drying hay waft and some engine oil.

Gentry Jockey Club by Oriza L. Legrand

If Bandit was created in the 21st century then I think this is how it would smell. Two enthusiastic thumbs up. Unisex leaning towards traditional masculine with moderate projection and awesome longevity. If you want to smell good all day without the need for touch ups. Different from the crowd but well under the weird factor. If your job is based on solid structure but you need to be (or smell like) an effective think outside the box-er but not a maverick then I’m thinking Gentry Jockey Club might be perfect fit. It’s also bloody sexy on Jin.

Sadly I have no memory of where this decant came from. There’s maybe 4 of 10ml left and I’m enjoying it immensely.

Are you a leather or Oriza Legrand fan? Favourites?
Portia xx

Saturday Question: Do You Miss Atelier Cologne?

It’s been three years since Atelier Cologne disappeared from most markets. At first, I thought they had only withdrawn from the US and Canada, but it seems that, aside from old stock at various discounters, their presence is now limited to online sales in Europe and about ten brick-and-mortar stores in Asia. So while some of us still have bottles to enjoy, for many perfumistas, it’s become just another name in perfume history – and for the next generation of perfume enthusiasts, it probably won’t even be that. Atelier Cologne’s fresh yet long-lasting citrus compositions were fun, but they weren’t groundbreaking, aside from introducing eau de parfum concentrations while still calling them colognes (or cologne absolue).

Saturday Question on Undina's Looking Glass

Saturday Question #256:

Do You Miss Atelier Cologne?

Were you a fan of the brand while it was around? Do you have any of their perfumes in your collection? Will you miss any of them when they are gone completely?

My Answer

Atelier Cologne was one of my favorite brands. I can’t believe that I published my Brand Appreciation post about them almost 10 years ago! I still have some perfumes left, and I’m not sure I’ll use them up before they spoil. The only perfume that I will actually miss when I don’t have it any more is my most favorite perfume from the brand – Clementine California. Not only I enjoy how it smells on my skin, but also because of the “photo shoot” for that post, it reminds me of Rusty (he had such an angelic look on those photos!). Now I need to negotiate with myself that I do not need a backup bottle. Or do I?

Still, I’m sad about the brand’s fate. I still don’t understand why large companies do what they do buying good brands and destroying them. There were some talks about Atelier Cologne coming back “rebranded” – whatever it means and for whatever reason the parent company thinks it might be better/easier to do that than keeping the brand present on the market without a 3-year hiatus. If it happens, I will try them. I saw that Atelier Cologne released this year Mandarine Fauve, a fruity chypre with the notes citrus, green mandarin, fir and patchouli. Notes sound like something that I might like, but so far I liked just a single creation of Maurice Roucel, who is a nose behind this composition. But I will try it if I ever get a chance.

How about you?

Do You Miss Atelier Cologne?

Saturday Question: What Was The Last Perfume You Decided Not To Buy?

The last week ran away from me, and I missed the SQ. At least, it was a good reason: we went for a short trip with our friends, and I didn’t realize I wouldn’t be making back in time to ask Portia to take over for that week’s SQ. But now I’m back, so let’s do it!

Saturday Question on Undina's Looking Glass

Saturday Question #255:

What Was The Last Perfume You Decided Not To Buy?

It has to be something you liked and seriously considered as a contender to join your collection despite the fact you don’t need any more perfumes – and then, in the end, decided not to buy. Is it a final decision, or do you plan to revisit it in the future?

My Answer

A month ago, while talking about a wish list, I mentioned Parfums de Marly Delina Exclusif: it kept pulling me in, I was thinking about it and even did a couple of searches trying to find it with at least some discount. I got a sample from the store and wore it several times while going back and forth on whether I want to buy it.

Today I went to the store, sprayed it liberally from the bottle (I’d say, about 5 sprays), which is different from using a small sample, lived with it until the end of the day, and finally came to the conclusion that I do not love it. If it were to drop from the sky, I wouldn’t have said “No.” But even in that case, I don’t think I would wear it often enough. Hence, I just can’t justify buying it – not now, not ever. I am a little sad because of it: I thought I was in love with that perfume.

How about you?

What Was The Last Perfume You Decided Not To Buy?

Ambre Mythique by Maitre Parfumeur et Gantier

Ambre Mythique by Maitre Parfumeur et Gantier

Hi there Looking Glassers, While you’re still stuck in cool weather but heading into warmer I thought we could look at one more gorgeous amber. Just for the love of it. Most of you would have heard of Maitre Parfumeur et Gantier ‘… founded in 1988 by the renowned perfumer Jean-François Laporte. Rooted in the tradition of 17th-century French perfumery, the brand draws its inspiration from travel, the world of opera, and baroque aesthetics.’ You’ll know Jean Laport from creating l’Artisan Parfumeur in 1976. He is quite the innovator and even when he is working within a trope he does it so flawlessly it’s like the idea has been perfected. Sadly the house has been lost in all the noise of new.

Ambre Mythique by Maitre Parfumeur et Gantier 2016

Ambre Mythique by Maitre Parfumeur et Gantier

Maitre Parfumeur et Gantier gives these featured accords:
Top: Bergamot, Geranium, Coriander, Incense
Heart: Myrrh, Lavender, Ciste labdanum
Base: Patchouli, Vanilla, Sandalwood, Tonka Beans

For many of the readers here a new amber perfume is the last thing on their list of needs. Yes, I’m much the same. Amber is one of my great perfume loves and the wardrobe is bristling with them. Last winter less than half of them even got worn. Yet, had I been in a shop with funds for spending I’d own the 120ml bottle already.

Opening with a deep patchouli/labdanum/incense smokiness, Ambre Mythique is furry and goat-ish but also has a whisper of crisp rose and greenery. A seriously warming fragrance that is leaning heavily into the heat here in the dying gasps of Sydney summer. Fire, smoke, woods and that beautiful animalic resinous sweetness of amber. So rich and burnished.

Very diffusive but not a screaming beast, longevity is off the charts. Spritz at 6am and you’ll still smell the rich remnants at midnight. GAH! I really want a full bottle of Ambre Mythique right now.

Ambre Mythique by Maitre Parfumeur et Gantier

You can see I just shook the decant in the photo before spritzing because some of the ingredients had sedimented over time. There’s only about 2ml left and it is a glorious amber colour.

LuckyScent still has bottles and samples

Are you a too many ambers person or is there room for one more?
Portia xx

Saturday Question: Have You Tried Any Aphorismes Fragrances?

Wait! Don’t go away! I promise I don’t plan to ask you about each of the dozens (hundreds?) new brands that appear on the market. But there are a couple that seemed more special, so I want to learn what you think about those.

Saturday Question on Undina's Looking Glass

Saturday Question #254:

Have You Tried Any Aphorismes Fragrances?

If yes, which ones? Did you like them? If no, are you curious about them?

A bonus question: Do you have any favorite perfumes by Dominique Ropion?

My Answer

I don’t remember how I came across the news about Dominique Ropion having launched six perfumes in his own new brand, Aphorismes, but unlike most of the new launches, this one attracted my attention.

All my life, I have told stories, many stories. Today, I am adding a new chapter. These six perfumes encapsulate the essence of my craft as a perfumer, the territories I have continuously explored. These essences, I see them as concentrations of life, designed to evoke delight and invite each person to tell their own story. They are invitations to embody emotion, sent to those who will wear them.
– Dominique Ropion

While I can’t say that Ropion is my favorite perfumer, I have several favorite perfumes created by him. And, in general, I think that if anyone, someone like him, after all the years creating perfume for others, deserves to have his own brand.

I haven’t tried any of the perfumes in this new line – A Rose is a Rose, Crazy Garden, Encens Insensé, Innocent Tuberose, My Clémentine and Oud à l’Amour. Currently, they are available from the brand’s store in Paris and from Jovoy. The brand’s site is “coming soon.” I am curious and will even consider paying for the discovery set when/if it becomes available.

My favorites created by Dominique Ropion: Cacharel Amor Amor (don’t have it any longer but used up a couple of bottles), Calvin Klein Euphoria (have never bought a FB but used up a couple of decants and regret not getting it when it was released first), Frederic Malle Portrait of a Lady (still have the original bottle and enjoy wearing it) and Une Fleur de Cassie, and my latest additions to the collection, Olfactive Studio Rose Shot, Iris Shot and Violet Shot.

How about you?

Have You Tried Any Aphorismes Fragrances?

Bois Sikar by Atelier des Ors

Bois Sikar by Atelier des Ors

Heya Crew! Do you have brands that you sincerely love yet you have never bought a full bottle? This is my story with Atelier des Ors. Way back when I went to Esxence Megan even offered me a bottle of their newest release but I knew my bag was right at the limit so asked for a couple of sets of samples, one for me and one for a giveaway. Kicking myself ever since. Their bottles are so beautiful, I love the gold flakes and the fragrances are all so thoughtfully produced. Dozens of times I’ve had them in my basket but they just never seem to make it all the way through checkout. So I’m currently retrying a few to decide which one I’ll buy to congratulate myself on finishing my Celebrant Course (when I finally do!).

Bois Sikar by Atelier des Ors 2018

Bois Sikar by Atelier des Ors

Atelier des Ors gives these featured accords:
Top: Nutmeg, Precious Wood, Guaiac Wood
Heart: Vetiver, Styrax, Cedar Leef
Base: Tobacco Absolute, Cyrpiol, Incense

It’s easy to know why Bois Sikar is near the top of my to try list. Tobacco/wood/incense are all in my wheelhouse, add some spices and resins and I’m right there, front and center. of course, Atelier des Ors does it in their own way so let’s chat about it.

Dark, charred, smoky woods open Bois Sikar. There is also the smell of greenery torn and trodden. Like the cold dawn on a campsite with only coals left in the fire pit and the smell of dew drying on the trees. Add the scent of kicked up leaf mulch and someone not very far away cooking super crispy bacon.

As we head towards the heart resinous tobacco becomes noticeable and Bois Sikar becomes a warm fragrance. Lightly spiced and cozy with the smoke of burning incense wafting through. Some of you may remember the spicy woods of the 1980s mens fragrances? Imagine that genre but elevated by interesting, modern style. It’s almost oudh-y and has a deep whiff of band aid and barnyard.

Bois Sikar by Atelier des Ors decant

The base is very traditionally masculine woods, dark and mysterious. It stays interesting and a little raunchy right to fade. Having said traditionally masculine, I know you are mostly for sex free scenting, me too, but giving you the traditional names means you have a place to start in your head while reading. So, obviously, if you like the sound of Bois Sikar then it doesn’t matter where you lie on the scale, try it. You never know.

Were/are you a Bois Sikar devotee?
Portia xx

I bought my decant from Surrender To Chance.

Saturday Question: Love Rules? Love Stinks?

I admit, the title is kind of a clickbait. Not that my regular readers need to be specifically enticed to participate in the SQ post, but I thought it would be a good playful way to pose a question related to a Valentine’s Day celebration.

While cooking our celebratory dinner, I decided to put on some music. Since I haven’t planned anything in advance, and I know my usual Italian Cooking Pandora channel by heart, I decided to check if my Sonos could offer anything occasion-appropriate. I checked, and there they were, two playlists – Love Rules and Love Stinks. And that gave me this idea.

Sonos Playlist

Saturday Question #253:

Do You Celebrate Valentine’s Day?

If yes, how? If no, why? Do you have special perfume(s) you wear on that day?

My Answer

We usually celebrate Valentine’s Day. We try not to participate in the organized part of it (other than using some decoration, themed napkins, etc.), but we cook something special, dress up and watch something romantic. And I always wear Annick Goutal Rose d’Amour. This year’s celebration was dampened by both of us being slightly sick. But we still managed to enjoy it. And my vSO spontaneously complimented me on my perfume (which was a miracle because even when not sick, he usually can’t smell what I’m wearing).

How about you?

Do You Celebrate Valentine’s Day?

Saturday Question: Have You Ever Used Fragrance Primers?

My G-d daughter recently sent me a link asking if I knew about the product and what I thought about it. The product was Optimal Habitat Fragrance Enhancing Primer. The claim is:

Imagine if your scent could last 24 hours…

Now it can, with our fragrance primer. Inspired by the resilience of nature’s ecosystems, Optimal Habitat works in harmony with your skin’s unique biology to create the ideal environment for scents to thrive. By forming a nurturing layer on the skin, each scent note is amplified, allowing it to bloom to its fullest potential.

I didn’t know anything about that primer, so I promised to ask my readers.

Saturday Question on Undina's Looking Glass

Saturday Question #252:

Have You Ever Used Fragrance Primers?

Not necessarily this particular one but maybe some other similar product. Fragrance primer, booster or enhancer? Did it work? Would you repurchase?

My Answer

When I read a description for this product, I immediately remembered that I previously read about some other products that were supposed to work on extending perfumes tenacity on your skin. It took me a while to remember the name. It turned out, I was thinking in the right direction, but try typing “perfume” and “canvas” in a search engine and see what you’ll get. Finally, I figured out what it was – Canvas Fragrance Primer from Canvas & Concrete. It was released in 2014, and the Perfumeland was talking about it for some time. I’ve never got to try it. I don’t know what happened to that brand, but as of now, their website doesn’t respond.

I think that I read about some similar products as well, but I haven’t tried any of them. As I was researching the topic, I came across The Perfume Guy’s video on the topic. I have two of the perfumes he recommends as a booster – Molecule 01 (which I live) and D.S. & Durga I don’t know what (which I wasn’t impressed with). So, I might try using them in that role. though, to tell the truth, these days I rarely notice that my perfume has disappeared. And when I do, I re-apply it if I want to extend the experience or use that opportunity to wear or test a different perfume.

How about you?

Have You Ever Used Fragrance Primers?

Sunkissed Goddess by By Kilian

Sunkissed Goddess by By Kilian

Heya Crew, Yes, I know. MORE recently purchased decants from Surrender To Chance. That this decant cost about half of last fortnights Guerlain may surprise you all, it did me. Remember when By Kilian were one of the most aspirational priced perfume houses in the world? Sure, they’re still expensive US$295 for a refillable Sunkissed Goddess 50ml from the By Killian site but that only seems pricey now rather than outrageous.

Since 2016 when Estée Lauder acquired By Kilian I’ve kept a little eye out, not really focussing but now that they’ve released this Limited Edition fragrance based on the Polynesian staple Manoi oil I’m interested. One of the brands famous pillars is Bronze Goddess which retails about US$85 for 50ml EdT (US$98 BGNuit EdP) and is a favourite of both Undina and myself. My memory (correct for once!) tells me Undina loves to take it on tropical holidays and I tend to use it to blow away the winter blues. It’s a staple. Plus the Lauder crew have also been doing a slew of Soleils over at the Tom Ford counter that range from US$300-405 in 50ml EdP. So they’ve deduced that tropical sunscreen with a boozy beverage sells (rightly so) and made them in accessible to aspirational offerings. Clever.

Sunkissed Goddess by By Kilian 2024

By Killian gives these featured accords:
Ylang-Ylang essence, Tiare Flower, Coconut

On first spritz my mind goes in a hundred directions. Oh yes, tropical beach suntanning in the late afternoon with a Pina Colada in a big glass and sunscreen slathered on. The slight prickle of salt still on your skin and through your hair and the smell of hot sand. I remember a few years ago Manoi oil became a thing here in Oz. Particularly among the early 20s club kids. For a brief moment, maybe a couple of summers, you’d walk in the club and it would smell like you’d found paradise. The older girls sun baking by the local swimming pool, their skin glistening with Reef Oil when we were kids. It’s all here in the first whiff.

Ylang in spades, coconut and vanilla all rolled together in some very luxe body lotion that does smell good. Really good. The heart into the base gets a lovely green banana leaf that lifts the experience. Apart from that Sunkissed Goddess is pretty linear and lasts well. Good projection for the first couple of hours then a whispering skin scent.

Sunkissed Goddess by By Kilian decant

So then, does Sunkissed Goddess smell like it’s worth more than three times Bronze Goddess? Yes and no. While Sunkissed Goddess does seem more luxurious and 5* hotel lotion-y I enjoy the story that the Bronze Goddess line tells. They seem more interesting, especially the Eau Fraiche ones with their citrus top over the rest. 2019s Bronze Goddess, with remarkably similar notes list still manages to be less ponderous and more jumping with life.

Now I’d like to read your thoughts please. Do you have favourites? Is this a genre you like?
Portia xx

 

 

Saturday Question: Do You Still Have A Perfume Wish List?

Let’s stipulate once again that most of us have enough perfumes to last for years without us ever buying another full bottle, and we talked about it more than once. And yet…

Saturday Question on Undina's Looking Glass

Saturday Question #251:

Do You Still Have A Perfume Wish List?

I am asking not about those wouldn’t-mind-owning-if-it-were-to-drop-from-the-sky wishes. But do you have a list of perfumes that you are actually considering buying at some point? If yes, do you have it in your head? Or do you write it somewhere? What perfumes are on your list? And if no, is it because you just haven’t come across any that you would want to buy? Or is it a conscious decision not to buy anything at all?

My Answer

I don’t need any more perfumes… And I am still on a “very-low-buy.” And yet, I have a wish list.

On that list, there are two perfumes that I will definitely buy eventually – Puredistance Gold and Papillon HeraGold has been on my list for almost 5 years: I finished the remaining couple of mls from the travel spray gifted by the brand that were left after a joint blogs giveaway hoping to buy my own bottle soon, but it hasn’t happened yet. But I still think it’s amazing and would want to wear it from time to time.

Two years ago, I fell in love with Hera after trying it from a sample I bought from Luckyscent. Buying a sample at that point was unusual for me, and I don’t remember why I decided to do it, not being a fan of the brand. Probably, because I liked their previous perfume, Bengale Rouge. I am glad that I did, because I find this perfume remarkable.

I don’t need more perfumes, but I’ll probably still buy these two. Eventually.

There is one more perfume that I know I should not be buying, but it keeps getting into my thoughts every time I see (and try) it at a store: Parfums de Marly Delina Exclusif. Until I tried this perfume, I was immune to this brand’s feminine offerings. I tried this one only because there was nothing else new in the store, and I was in the mood to test something… Now, every time I spray it at a store, for the first several minutes I think: “Nah, it’s not that great, I do not need it…” And then I can’t stop sniffing my wrist and later clothes it transferred to thinking how much I like what I smell.

How about you?

Saturday Question: Do You Still Have A Perfume Wish List?