Ilio by Diptyque

Ilio by Diptyque

Hi ULGers, Ilio by Diptyque was released in 2021. It almost completely passed me by. Recently I saw it at a Diptyque counter and gave it a spritz. Opening was jaw droppingly gorgeous. Sadly, it was completely overwhelmed by other perfume counter scents in the next 10 minutes. I really didn’t feel like we’d had time to bond. So, off to trusty Surrender To Chance and grabbed a decant. I wanted to write a post to tell you about it before finishing the decant.

Ilio by Diptyque 2021

Ilio by Diptyque

These are the featured accords:
Prickly pear, Fig, Iris, Jasmine, Bergamot (Lavender noted in some lists)

Prickly pear has become a huge problem in Australia. Once established it’s almost impossible to remove. We even brought in a specific moth to work as a biological control. Apparently it has worked wonders in certain areas.

The taste is analogous to a near ripe watermelon but a little gritty, according to the internet.

An interesting, floral opening that feels more like real life peony than any of the given notes. Ilio even has the powdery softness of a peony petal. Underneath and making itself known over the first few minutes is a pithy greenery. A bit like the pith of a sweet citrus and the smell after you cut hydrangea flowers, or give them a good pruning at the end of their season. Plus there is a some really dark greenery smell that has a bitter edge, it’s fascinating. Like pulling that thin green bark from a rose branch.

Through the hear a very green and earthy iris that has carroty coolness becomes more pronounced until it takes center stage and every other note creates an uplifting backdrop. For something that seems so simple there’s a lot of story to Ilio.

Dry down is a green amber and some lovely soft white flowers. Yeah, I know. Doesn’t sound regular. It’s not. Even the base is exceptional. Ilio never stops surprising.

Totally unisex. Ilio is refreshing but missing most of the tropes that create that feeling. Longevity is good I’m still smelling the base at 10 hours. Diffusion is excellent for the first hour and settles into a soft pump of fragrance.

Ilio by Diptyque STC

My question to myself is. “Though I’ve loved Ilio and worn it to the dregs of 3ml, will I wear it if I buy a bottle? OR will it sit unopened and unworn for the next 20 years?”. I don’t have a crystal ball but have added Ilio to the top of my To Buy List. It’s so interesting, and smells fabulous, all day.

Sound good to you?
Portia xx

 

Saturday Question: Have You Ever Bought a Perfume from a Surprise Sample?

Smelling perfumes at a store and then getting a sample to decide if we want more, or ordering a sample of a perfume we got curious about, is the regular route new perfumes take to join our collections. But sometimes perfume or beauty orders come with samples we didn’t choose ourselves. This week’s question is about those samples.

 

Saturday Question on Undina's Looking Glass

 

Saturday Question #279:

Have You Ever Bought a Perfume from a Surprise Sample?

Would you have tried it if it hadn’t been sent to you? Do you still have that perfume?

My Answer

I came up with this question earlier this week while unpacking a package from Sephora.

The main reason I order online instead of going to the store just a 10-minutes drive from where I live is that I can choose a couple of samples with any order and get another larger sample with a minimum purchase. Had they made it easy to do the same in store, I would have saved them money on delivery and gone to the mall. But since they don’t, I order online. The samples that I choose are always skincare or makeup. I haven’t done an exact count, but it feels like in one out of two orders they substitute the requested sample with a perfume sample. And I don’t like when that happens: I just don’t know what to do with those mass-market perfumes. I try them when they arrive even though I know that I won’t like them. I don’t. And after that, they just sit in my drawer. Unlike a lotion that I can use on my hands or feet if I don’t want to apply it to my face or a makeup sample that is a one-use packet that I’ll try and forget, there’s no use for perfumes I don’t like. But it’s hard to throw away a full sample.

Mentally going through all the years and samples, I can think of a single perfume that fits that question – a long-discontinued Tiempe Passate by Antonia’s Flowers. As I described in the post My First Niche Perfume: Tiempe Passate by Antonia’s Flowers, I got a sample of this perfume with another purchase at a store that didn’t even carry it. So if it weren’t for that random sample, I might never have tried it. I still have that bottle and wear this perfume from time to time.

Antonias Flowers Tiempe Passate

How about you?

 

Have You Ever Bought a Perfume from a Surprise Sample?

Gilded Lily by Ineke

Gilded Lily by Ineke

Hey Looking Glass-ers, If you’ve been a perfumista for a few years you might remember the days when the whole scentbloggosphere was completely full of the brand Ineke? It was really fabulous. There were all the mass-tige brands vying for attention and a few women also getting us all excited. Brands like Keiko Mecheri, Miller Harris, Annick Goutal and Ineke were all high on my radar and every new release from these crews would be met with widespread interest. Gilded Lily always struck me as a bottle that was delightfully festive. Red glass, golden pickings and black. It was the bottle that caught my eye yesterday when looking for something else. I just looked it up and sadly it has been discontinued to make way for their new Jaipur Chai. Ineke’s perfumes have stayed very affordable at US$145/70ml. Unheard of in the modern day of ridiculous aspirational pricing. They also do an affordable 7 x 1.5ml Discovery Set.

Gilded Lily by Ineke 2010

Gilded Lily by Ineke

Ineke gives these featured accords:
Top: Pineapple, rhubarb, grapefruit, elemi.
Heart: Goldband lily
Base: Patchouli, oakmoss, labdanum

The sweet screech of pineapple and grapefruit opens Gilded Lily, almost cartoonish in its intensity. I’m no perfumer but I think there is also the sparkle of aldehydes running through. The fireworks are quickly damped by smooth, calming, resinous elemi. Suddenly we are in the gilded age of perfumes. Very movie star glamour like a vintage Caron or Dior. Smooth but glittering. The lily plays through here. It’s not a white floral but a does have pieces of that scent profile. I’m going to say it sits halfway between a yellow flowering bulb and iris. Beautiful.

The base is not a typical 1970s chypre but a less dry and resinous amber adventure. A clean patchouli and some earthy woods. Forest-like. Calming. Gilded Lily ends in a peaceful mountain retreat.

Were you a fan? Are you sad to see Gilded Lily go?
Portia xx

 

Saturday Question: What Perfume Would You Wear As A Wedding Guest Today?

I planned to ask this question last week, but since I was traveling for the said occasion, my schedule got too hectic, and I didn’t even open my laptop to publish this SQ. But now I know the answer to my question without any hypothetical guessing.

 

Saturday Question on Undina's Looking Glass

 

Saturday Question #278:

What Perfume Would You Wear As A Wedding Guest Today?

Consider your current weather, what you would wear and any other imaginary circumstances of attending a wedding tomorrow and choose one of your favorites to scent that joyful event.

My Answer

Until the day I started packing for the trip, I was sure that I would be wearing one of my top 3 all-time favorites, Ormonde Jayne Ta’if. But at the last moment, I went with Armani Prive La Femme Bleue – a choice that felt as elegant as my navy-black gown and just as appropriate for the occasion.

I didn’t abandon my beloved Ta’if, though, and wore it to the rehearsal dinner, together with the brick rose/red silk blouse.

Perhaps it wasn’t me choosing perfumes at all, but my outfits whispering their own picks.

NY2025

View from the wedding venue

 

How about you?

 

What Perfume Would You Wear As A Wedding Guest Today?

Hydra Figue by Miller Harris

Hydra Figue by Miller Harris

Hey there ULGers, Back in 2023 my mate Cinnamon from Perfume Posse talked about some new Miller Harris. I’m not sure when or where I got a boxed manufacturers spray sample of Hydra Figue. Maybe it came as a GWP? While going through stuff cleaning up my mess in the perfume room it turned up. YAY!

This from the company: “The scent of the artist’s idyll. Journey, to a Greek Bohemian paradise. A complex woody, citrus and marine fragrance combining the fruit of the fig with sea salt, Greek saffron and upcycled oakwood.”

Hydra Figue by Miller Harris 2023

Hydra Figue by Miller Harris

Miller Harris gives these featured accords:
Top: Bergamot, Saffron Greece, Cardamom, Ginger, Lemon, Ouzo Accord
Heart: Fig, Tuberose, Sea Salt, Sage, Marine Accord, Mirabilis Jalapa
Base: OakWood, Sandalwood, Ambroxan, Velvet Musk

Citrus zest, fig and zingy ginger all lightly salted. So good! A bright burst of glorious sunshine.

Hydra Figue’s heart stays salty fig and becomes enmeshed in a dark, slightly toxic greenery. Stunning, and so far removed from what I expect from the usually safe Miller Harris house. Reminiscent of Mugler Womanity but much less antagonistic. Darker, more interesting and the kind of perfume I could easily imagine the evil witch wearing in Snow White.

The heart lives for hours and gets darker and woodsier. As we head towards dry down there is a definite twist of sweaty humanity underscoring the beautiful woodsy/figgy depths.

How can Hydra Figue not have become a full on stellar fan favourite?

It’s unisex, full on, interesting and has a fabulous life story. I can seriously imagine the beast mode bros falling over themselves to smell this fabulous.

Hydra Figue by Miller Harris

HA! This is so good I just looked it up and bought a bottle.

Probably not for everyone but I’ll be glad to have it.

Salt seems to be having a few years of reprise. I’m so happy for it.
What about you? Does Hydra Figue sound wearable?
Portia xx

Saturday Question: What Are Your Perfumes’ Pronouns?

Both languages I grew up with were inflected and had a three-way noun-class system – or, simply put, gendered. When I started learning English, it took me a while to get used to calling all inanimate objects “it,” unless, of course, we were talking about ships, other vehicles or abstract concepts like Fortune or Justice.

Over the decades, it became second nature, and I stopped even thinking about a pen being “she” or a pencil being “he.” That is, until recently, when I noticed a trend on YouTube beauty channels: more and more often, creators refer to products with “she,” as in “She is gorgeous!” or “Just look how glowy she is!” while talking about lipsticks, eyeshadows or blushes. It still sounds unnatural to me, but what do I know?

 

Saturday Question on Undina's Looking Glass

 

Saturday Question #277:

What Are Your Perfumes’ Pronouns?

When you think about perfumes, what pronoun do you use?

 

My Answer

In my native language, the situation was slightly illogical. The word духи (dukhi), a native Slavic word with deep etymology that referred to women’s perfume, existed only in the plural – and therefore had no grammatical gender. That didn’t stop everyone from understanding that the product was strictly feminine.

The masculine counterpart, одеколон (odekolon), meaning cologne, was grammatically masculine and, unsurprisingly, intended for men. Interestingly, that word was a loan from French (eau de Cologne), adapted phonetically.

Years of talking, writing, and thinking about perfume in English have taught me that fragrances are genderless usage-wise and definitely inanimate grammatically. So for me, even my absolute favorites, the ones I adore and never want to be without, will always be “it” (in every sense of the word).

 

How about you?

 

What Are Your Perfumes’ Pronouns?

17 Nandan Road by Ulrich Lang

17 Nandan Road by Ulrich Lang

Hi Crew, 17 Nandan Road by Ulrich Lang is a decant given as a gift with purchase from First in Fragrance, Germany. While shipping perfume internationally was still easy to do, I used to get orders together from Aussie perfumistas and combined we’d get free shipping to OZ. I’d then send it all out to our Aussies. It was excellent. Those days are gone.

17 Nandan Road by Ulrich Lang 2018

17 Nandan Road by Ulrich Lang

Ulrich Lang gives these featured accords:
Top: Green Leaves, Bergamot, Sicilian Lemon
Heart: Osmanthus, Iris
Base: Cedar, Ambroxan, Musk

Sparkling green open, like a freshly cut branch. It’s sharp green and so refreshing. If you are green fragrance averse then 17 Nandan Road  will be your kryptonite. Bright green writ large and gorgeously. This fabulous open doesn’t fade quickly either, I get a lovely amount of time to enjoy it before the gentle encroach of a rooty iris that is cool and earthy. I’ve only been in the vicinity of a flowering osmanthus once and this version is shorn of all the animalic leatheriness but has a delightful peachy florally. A pollen dusted cross between jasmine and narcissus. Under all the green breath of a florists fridge.

17 Nandan Road Ulrich Lang Sample

Dry down seems to hit about 1.5-3 hours in, day dependent. It’s a soft focus woody iris with no hint of the zingy green opening. Competent and pretty, it rises above the median but becomes very low key skin scent by the 5 hour mark. You have to be very close to really notice it. Only your intimate partners, closest friends or kids will get a whiff. I’ve been going for a top up because the opening is so good, I wanted to relive it again and again.

Totally unisex. The first hour has moderate plus projection. Longevity is under the current common average. This can be a plus if a perfume droning on ad infinitum bores the crap out of you (as it often does me).

Isn 17 Nandan Road calling your name?
Portia xx

 

Saturday Question: What Are Your Top 5 Woody Perfumes?

Recently, I eased up on my “low-buy” mode and bought a number of perfume samples. I’m still in the process of testing them, and we’ll see if it turns into a post at some point. But as I was adding them to my database, I realized that some of those classified as “woody” didn’t smell woody to me. Neither did many others in my collection formally labeled as “Woody” or “Woody Musk,” according to Fragrantica. So, take this question in any way you like.

 

Saturday Question on Undina's Looking Glass

 

Saturday Question #276:

What Are Your Top 5 Woody Perfumes?

You can name perfumes that officially fall under the classification, whether or not you think they smell woody. Or you can go with what your nose tells you, regardless of classification. Or even pick based on the name of your favorite perfumes.

My Answer

I tried to combine two conditions – classification and how I perceive them. And all I could come up with from my fragrance wardrobe were the following three:

  • Escentric Molecules Molecule 01
  • Sarah Jessica Parker Stash
  • Serge Lutens Santal Majuscule (though I almost finished this decant, so it’s down to two)

So it seems I am not the biggest fan of wood-smelling perfumes. But then I realized my vSO’s collection is much more wood-oriented. And since I chose most of those for him, it means that I do love these scents – just not on myself. So I easily chose my top 5 favorite woody perfumes for my vSO:

  • Hermès Rocabar & Terre d’Hermès
  • Diptyque Tam Dao
  • Puredistance BLACK
  • Tom Ford Oud Wood (this one checks all three “wood” boxes!)

 

Now it’s your turn.

 

What Are Your Top 5 Woody Perfumes?

Saturday Question: Would You Pay $200 For the First Batch Bottle of LDDM?

A couple of days ago I came across an IG post about a giveaway dedicated to the celebration of 20 years of Tauer Perfumes. A bottle of the very first batch of L’Air du Désert Marocain. I didn’t plan to enter since I barely made a dent in my 12 years old travel bottle. So, I opened the post just to “comment for better reach” for the post. And that’s when I saw the part about the winner having to pay $200 to cover shipping of “dangerous goods.” The current version of the LDDM bottle is $155 with a free shipping in the US (and some other countries as well). So, if you were to win the vintage bottle, you’d end up paying at least $45 more (and maybe more since you will be also responsible for any local taxes and duties).

Saturday Question on Undina's Looking Glass

Saturday Question #275:

Would You Pay $200 For the First Batch Bottle of LDDM?

I mean, if it weren’t a giveaway but you would be given a chance to buy that bottle for the stated price – would you? BTW, in parallel, there is an auction for the second bottle. The current bid is nearing $3K (50% of the final bid will go to a charity).

And a bonus question: Do you have a favorite perfume from this brand?

My Answer

While I am not in the market for this perfume, I like it and think that with the quality of Tauer’s perfumes, it is worth its $155, $200 and probably more. So, if I didn’t have my travel bottle and was offered a $200, maybe even $300 bottle of that first batch, I would have jumped at the opportunity.

Had the brand decided to auction out two bottles, I would have promoted that post and cheered for the brand and its anniversary. But I am appalled by that $200 shipping fee for the winner. I couldn’t immediately pinpoint why but I felt that it rubbed me the wrong way.

Giveaway is a giveaway. It allows anyone to throw their hat in the ring and get lucky. In this case, not only participants had to like, follow, tag and wax poetical about that perfume (kind of expected), but also be prepared to pay more than for the current version in case they “win.” It doesn’t feel right.

Andy put a lot of efforts in explaining who cannot participate, what will disqualify participants, how quickly they will have to respond, etc. Ironically, he didn’t mention that perfume is still in good shape. He didn’t explain what is so special about it – other than that it was the first batch produced 20 years ago. Has he changed the formula since then? Are these two the last bottles available? I asked in the comment why these vintage bottles were in newer boxes (in the video, he stressed out that they were “cellophaned”) and not in original pentagonal tins – he didn’t answer. Also, he didn’t explain how the “lucky winner” will be contacted. So, with the stated $200 price tag and a looming 24 hours response deadline I expect a certain number of scam “winning” messages.

In addition to LDDM, I really like Phi, Une Rose Vermeille and When We Cuddle…  And even though more of Andy’s perfumes do not work for me than do, I always had positive feelings for the brand (I even named it as my favorite indie brand in one of the SQ posts several years ago). I’ve never met the perfumer, but heard more than once that those who did considered him kind and gracious person. The way it reads to me now: Andy considers social networks as necessary but evil. He wants and needs the outreach they provide his brand and doesn’t trust most of the followers at the same time. It is sad. I hope that in the end, after he used that $200 deterrent to discourage idle “scrollers” from polluting the giveaway, he’ll decide to use some of the proceeds from the auction for the second bottle to cover the delivery for the person who wins the giveaway. That would be the right thing to do.

Would You Pay $200 For the First Batch Bottle of LDDM?

Patchouli Paris by Guerlain

Patchouli Paris by Guerlain

Hi there Looking Glassers, I’m clearly a Guerlain fan, it’s been a brand in my life since childhood. Also, I understand that perfume pricing has gone out of control. What was a fun hobby that could be played with spare change, it has now become a major investment. That’s taken quite a lot of the fun out of being a perfumista for me. Now, when I try a stratospherically priced new perfume it has to be unbelievably special. Tick all the boxes, surprise, delight, ring my bell and make me swoon: at the very least. Especially when some of the Indie Perfume Houses are making spectacular, envelope pushing beauties for less than a quarter the price. So, to be fair, I’m coming to Patchouli Paris with a fairly jaded mindset, eyerolling at the price and grumpy at LVMH. I got my decant at Surrender To Chance.

Patchouli Paris by Guerlain 2024

Patchouli Paris by Guerlain

I found these featured accords:
Top: Aldehydes
Heart: Iris
Base: Patchouli, Ambergris

Opening is a lightly sweet, smoky aldehydic zing that smells very CHANEL and it has a real early 200os radiant white floral effect. This could be a new Les Exclusive. Smooth and lovely, the iris feels so clean, a little bit soapy. Dry down is a very soft focus clean patchouli with only the merest whispered hint of briny whale poop.

Everyone that has talked to me about Patchouli Paris has told me it’s a barnstormer but I find it incredibly polite. An under the radar fragrance that feels totally introverted. If that’s your style then Patchouli Paris will be catnip. A perfect low humming pale wash that elevates your own scent without drawing attention, or histrionics.

Obviously, your mileage may vary. I sincerely hope it does and that it’s just on me that Patchouli Paris lays like a limp lettuce leaf: insipid, uninspiring and sadly undelightful.

Patchouli Paris by Guerlain STC

Longevity and sillage are moderate. Nice on everyone, across gender borders.

SOOO NICE that I can see this becoming a go-to patchouli for those that don’t really love patchouli but do love the very glamorous facets of iris, with a touch of leathery goodness. There is none of the bread dough, carrot or woody dankness that can so often accompany the noble iris rhizome.

It’s like Guerlain has become afraid of making a real statement and has decided to mumble.

What did you think?
Portia xx