Saturday Question: What Brand Has The Best Atomizer?

While talking about oil-based perfumes last week, we confirmed once again that most respondents preferred spraying their perfumes. So, this week’s SQ is about spray atomizers (and some ranting).

Saturday Question on Undina's Looking Glass

Saturday Question #232:

What Brand Has The Best Atomizer?

Do you even think in these categories? If yes, what aspects of that distribution mechanism are the most important to you? Fineness of the mist? Spray distribution? Pressure sensitivity? Durability? Leak/evaporation prevention? Design? Something else?

My Answer

For a long time I didn’t even think about this part of the perfume bottle: as long as it worked, I didn’t notice anything else. Later, I started paying more attention to aesthetics and started noticing that some atomizers complemented the design of the bottle (think about Mugler‘s Angel). And then I bought my first bottle of Chanel. I still remember that first “Wow!” moment of realization of how incredibly smooth was the action, how amazingly fine was the burst of Coco from that beautiful bottle and how well-made the atomizer looked.

Chanel Coco

I am sure that my collection has many other perfumes with good atomizers. But all these years, every time I used one of my favorite Chanel perfumes, I would again and again mentally pay tribute to this iconic brand for the pleasure I felt gently pressing the nozzle and getting an evenly distributed finest mist exactly where I planned to apply it.

So, until very recently, I would have answered “Chanel” without thinking twice. What has changed? I gave up and bought a limited edition bottle of No 5 L’Eau. On the positive side: I like this perfume and will enjoy wearing it. And a friend got it for me in the duty-free in Paris, so the price was quite right. On the negative side… First of all, while that egg-shaped bottle (I’m not sure whose idea was that it’s a “drop”!) is pleasing to look at, it is extremely awkward when you try opening it. I even thought that my bottle was defective, or that I clever enough to solve the puzzle that held that cap in place. Nope. It was just hard to grip the cap firmly enough to apply the necessary force. I managed to do it eventually, but since then I struggle with it every time. But what upset me even more was the atomizer. It is not bad by any measure. It works. It doesn’t leak. It distributes perfume evenly without spewing. But it doesn’t have that…  je ne sais quoi, so to speak, that made Chanel atomizers special. And it is sad because I don’t think it happened for any good reason but in the name of greed – in order for some executive to smugly report up-the-chain that they saved 25 cents per bottle without anyone even noticing the difference. I noticed. So, while for now I’ll keep the highest spot for my older Chanel bottles (as recent as Paris – Venise they were still superb), I will start taking notice of how my other favorites’ pumps work.

Chanel No5 L'EAU

And I welcome your thoughts on which brands deserve praise.

What Brand Has The Best Atomizer?

Saturday Question: Do You Own Oil-based Perfumes?

Recently, while preparing the SQ about Serge Lutens perfumes, I was looking through their current offerings and discovered that now they offer something called confit de parfum. The investigation revealed that it stands for “oil perfume” (which wasn’t obvious from description on the brand’s site).

 

Saturday Question on Undina's Looking Glass

 

Saturday Question #231:

Do You Own Oil-based Perfumes?

Do you have any in your collection? When do you wear them? Do you like them in principle?

My Answer

Over years, I tried several oil perfumes when a sample came my way, and some of those that I tried weren’t bad. Even though I think that perfumes in high concentrations (extraits) are better when applied dabbed, for some reason oil-based perfumes aren’t “my thing.” But I do have several.

First, I bought a mini bottle of Milk by Ava Luxe. It reminds me my favorite Sweet Milk by Jo Malone, and I enjoy wearing it in colder months.

Ava Luxe Milk

Two years ago I bought a sample set of Amouage attars. I brought it with me to the vacation in Sedona, and since then revisited them several times, but I haven’t warmed up to any of the six attars enough to want more.

Amouage Attars

How about you?

 

Do You Own Oil-based Perfumes?

Encens Suave by Matiere Premiere

Encens Suave by Matiere Premiere

Hey there ULGers, Encens Suave by Matiere Premiere has been sitting on my desk awaiting the Northern Hemispheres cooling. It feels like a good time to give you some good perfume news. I’m pretty sure this arrived with a Libertine Parfumerie order as a GWP. I do love a boxed manufacturers sample, so cool. This is one of my favourites from the line and I’ve given myself the odd spritz while in the big Sydney city department stores.

Encens Suave by Matiere Premiere 2019

Encens Suave Matiere Premiere

Accords include:
Top: Coffee
Heart: Incense, Madagascar Vanilla
Base: Benzoin, Labdanum

That coffee note is really rich, more like chocolate on me. Dark chocolate. It’s a very interesting opening that is soon cut through with a smoky, very Asiatic incense and warm sweet resinous amber. For all the simplicity of my words Encens Suave is very nuanced and a some beautiful trajectory.

Once it hits dry down, an hour or more in the fragrance becomes a lightly smoky amber, with some charred woods. There’s sweetness but it’s low key for me, though on other people it seems to wear sweeter. This is my favorite part of the ride and it hums away for hours and hours. We are now in very linear territory and I love to get random huffs throughout the day/evening.

Encens Suave by Matiere Premiere 2019

Unisex, very fragrant and longevity is off the charts. Encens Suave is definitely pandering to the Beast Mode Bros love of all things enormous and everlasting. The first time I wore it while out frag sniffing with a couple of mates I may have gone a bit overboard. It was HUGE and eternal.

One thing I really like is that Matiere Premiere offer 6ml, 50ml and 100ml. This is one perfume brand that I think is worth the extra $$$ and still manages to be within my boundaries. 50ml is €155 from the brand.

Have you? Would you try Encens Suave?
Portia xx

Saturday Question: Do You Differentiate Weekday and Weekend Perfumes?

One would think that working a “short week” after a three-day weekend makes it easier. But somehow, days after holidays and vacations tend to be so busy with additional tasks that would have been completed in that extra day, that by the end of the “easy” week I wholeheartedly welcome a weekend. This after-Labor-Day week was one of those.

 

Saturday Question on Undina's Looking Glass

 

Saturday Question #230:

Do You Differentiate Weekday and Weekend Perfumes?

Do you reserve certain perfumes for weekends, or does your mood dictate what you wear regardless of the day?

My Answer

In pre-pandemic times, when I worked mostly from the office, I used to classify some of my perfumes as office-friendly and wore them for that purpose. Additionally, I had “special occasion” perfumes that I wore predominantly for said occasions. The rest of my collection consisted of perfumes that I thought weren’t suitable for work but at the same time weren’t “special” enough. Those I wore “after hours,” on weekends and while traveling.

These days, working from home, I still lean toward “SFW” scents during the day (if I remember to put anything on at all) – probably out of habit, which was further reinforced by my concerns that strong perfumes could bother Rusty when he wasn’t feeling well or wanted to spend time on my lap. So, on weekends, especially if we leave the house, I try to “air,” so to speak, all my bolder favorites. Tomorrow, I’ll probably go with Encens Mythique d’Orient.

Guerlain Encens Mythique d’Orient

How about you?

 

Do You Differentiate Weekday and Weekend Perfumes?

Saturday Question: What Perfume Will You Wear for the Last Day of Summer?

I know that in our diverse world people have quite a variety of definitions even for such a seemingly simple notion as “summer.” In the Northern Hemisphere, from an astronomical view, summer starts at the solstice (around June 21st) and ends with autumnal equinox (around September 21st). Summer is considered between 1st of May and 31st of July according to the solar season (and Irish calendar). “Reckoning by cultural festivals, the summer season in the United States is traditionally regarded as beginning on Memorial Day weekend (the last weekend in May) and ending on Labor Day (the first Monday in September)” (Wikipedia). And I won’t even start about the Southern Hemisphere! But for today’s question, I’m going by the meteorological convention that defines summer as comprising the months of June, July, and August in the Northern Hemisphere. Hence, today is the last day of Summer.

Saturday Question on Undina's Looking Glass

Saturday Question #229:

What Perfume Will You Wear for the Last Day of Summer (or Winter)?

Even if your choice doesn’t have anything to do with the specific date, you are wearing perfume, aren’t you? What guided your choice today?

My Answer

It’s a Labor Day weekend in the US, so today I will be wearing white. Puredistance WHITE.

Puredistance White

How about you?

What Perfume Will You Wear for the Last Day of Summer?

Hussar by Aquaflor Firenze

Hussar by Aquaflor Firenze

Hiya Fellow Fulies, Hussar by Aquaflor Firenze came to my attention through my mate Clayton Illolahia. He is the genius behind now gone What Men Should Smell Like blog. We started blogging here in Sydney within two months of each other and have spent a lot of time around the perfume traps. He went on to study perfume and is now working with the Michael Edwards Fragrances of the World team. Nowadays he’s really busy travelling the world six months a year. On the occasions we get together to sniff his favorites from the latest adventures he only gives me the most standout to his unbelievably well curated bring home bottles. Seriously, he’s lucky to pick five from the hundreds he smells at each event. So that’s how impressive he found this scent and through our sniff I too fell madly and wildly in love. I think you can only buy these fragrances from the online store, shipping is VERY expensive. It might be cheaper to have a Florence vacation, worth it.

Hussar by Aquaflor Firenze

Hussar by Aquaflor Firenze

Aquaflor Firenze gives these featured accords:
Head: Citrus, Cloves
Heart: Jasmine, Leather
Base: Birch, Vetiver, Amber, Vanilla

Hussar is a Russian Leather. I learned something today. Russian Leather is named for the Russian military boots leather. How bloody interesting is that? So last fortnight I spoke of the CHANEL Cuir de Russie which alludes to the saddles and in particular the soap the Russians (and now the world) used to keep them supple and make them last decades. Quite different takes on the Russian Leather experience, very cool.

The opening is sharp, clove heavy and vanilla prominent. From the outset Hussar is more forthright and has much greater sillage than CdR. Also, it feels less refined and exclusive. Rugged but not rough. Think of Twilight’s Edward and Jacob. Hussar is definitely the Jacob.

Hussar by Aquaflor Firenze

It’s not long till the dark, smoky leather pushes forward and becomes the star player. Somewhere in the heart we get this unbelievably glorious lipstick type orris, it’s a welcome surprise and adds layers to the fragrance ride. Spicy vanilla rich amber and smoky leather with a very slight soapy texture takes us to dry down which pumps out for hours before fade.

So good. Also, this does not feel like a winter leather. It’s more a shoulder season and I think it might sing beautifully in the heat.

Do you have a favourite leather?
Portia xx

Saturday Question: Do You Think of Others When Choosing Which Perfume to Wear?

We all try to be considerate when applying perfumes before going to a theater or boarding a plane (well, at least we try). Sometimes, we find ourselves in the company of a scentophobe or in a fragrance-free work environment. Today’s question is not about those situations.

Saturday Question on Undina's Looking Glass

Saturday Question #228:

Do You Think of Others When Choosing Which Perfume to Wear?

If there are no limitations, you do not expect any objections, and you can choose any perfume from your collection, do you think of people you’ll be meeting in terms of whether they would like what you plan to wear? Or do you go with what you feel like wearing regardless of the potential “audience”?

My Answer

For many-many years, the main driver of my choices was how I felt about the perfume, how it fit the event, my outfit and my mood. I would consider the specific preferences of particular people (as in “what not to wear”), but other than that, I was at the center of all considerations.

In recent years, I started catching myself trying to figure out which of the perfumes I could wear might please people I was going to spend time with. I consider many of my perfumes great. But I would be trying to choose the one that I thought others might consider pleasant, beautiful or at least nice. It’s not that I want people to like me (they already do – we’re friends), but rather I want them to like my perfume. At least partially, I think, it’s because I know that they know about my hobby, so, in some sense, I don’t want to disappoint them or miss an opportunity to impress them with some rare beauty.

 

How about you?

Do You Think of Others When Choosing Which Perfume to Wear?

Saturday Question: What Was The Last New Serge Lutens Perfume You Tried?

Remember when this brand was among the most popular, beloved and talked about brands in the Perfumeland? Bell jars were highly-coveted items, each new release would ripple around the blogosphere in multiple reviews and discussions, and the samples were almost a convertible currency. These days, the brand seems to have lost its royal standing, the next generation of perfume lovers does not talk about it with bated breath, and seasoned perfumistas do not favor it compared to a dozen other brands they do not pay too much attention to any longer because their collections are bursting as is.

Saturday Question on Undina's Looking Glass

Saturday Question #227:

What Was The Last New Serge Lutens Perfume You Tried?

Did you pay for the sample? Did you like it? Do you plan to buy a bottle? Is there any perfume from the brand that you would like to try (it doesn’t have to be a new release)?

My Answer

The last new perfume from Serge Lutens I tried was La Dompteuse Encagée. I tried a sample of it three (!) years ago, liked it, and later that year bought a bottle. But since then I haven’t tried any of their new releases.

It is not that I am not interested in this brand: they’ll have to ruin most of my favorites completely and launch at least a couple of new perfumes that I don’t find interesting for me to take them off my mental “to try” list. This hasn’t happened yet, partially because no retailers around carry the brand, and bottles of my favorites are not even close to being empty – hence no need to pay for testing how the current reformulation smells. But because no stores have Serge Lutens for me to test, with my low-buy in the recent couple of years, I didn’t want to pay for samples of new ones from the brand either. I might one day.

Serge Lutens La Dompteuse Encagee

How about you?

What Was The Last New Serge Lutens Perfume You Tried?

Coromandel and Cuir de Russie extraits by CHANEL

Coromandel and Cuir de Russie extraits by CHANEL

Hi there ULGers, With the unsubstantiated but persistent rumors of the exclusif extraits being DCd I’ve started to panic. Late last week I popped into my nearest CHANEL Beauty store and got a porcelain each of Coromandel and Cuir de Russie. At the time I also swiped them. One on each forearm. Can we talk about a blissful afternoon and evening of greedily huffing at both arms…

Yes I am aware of how spendy they are and also aware that I’ll probably never have courage to open them. Already I have unopened 1932, Gardenia, Jersey and No 22 extraits. You’re right, I never smell them because of it BUT the joy I get from taking out those boxes and dreaming about wearing them is very satisfying. Honestly, my need to open another bottle of perfume is not so strong, especially as some of my REALLY important loves are just evaporating away and getting just a couple of wears a year. Some of my older Guerlain bottles like Vega, Moscou and Cuir Beluga are definitely wasting away.

Coromandel and Cuir de Russie extraits by CHANEL

Coromandel and Cuir de Russie extraits by CHANEL

If you want to see note lists etc here is the link to CHANEL USA. The extraits are 15ml and currently US$305, so $20/ml. It’s expensive but not so outrageously so compared to a lot of the schlock that’s being hustled for much more.

Coromandel

Patchouli, thick and rich and sparkling golden like it’s been scrubbed of everything earthy and 1970s. It’s still patchouli but this is classy stuff. There are other bit players that help create the whole but what really matters is the amber that has been cooled and aerated by orris. So what I smell is patchouli/orris/amber that misses a lot of the vanillic sweetness and holds just a tiny little bit feral, like microscopic underpinnings. What happens is it makes this whole, utterly perfect scent that has been blended into submission just a fraction rebellious. It’s so clever and beautiful. That single swipe in the early afternoon was still pumping soft wisps at lunch next day before I showered.

Cuir de Russie

So while I was very horsey in my youth and rode, mucked out, collected horse apples and groomed them for years. My parents sent me to riding classes every weekend and made the farm owners send me to help do all the dirty work so I’d stop wanting a horse of my own. They needn’t have worried. Once I changed schools my Saturdays were for sport.
Anyway, Cuir de Russie is funny. It smells like a brand new pair of patent leather shoes AND it smells like a tack room. It is this super weird blend of two worlds and it lures me in every time. Obviously if you love Beast Mode leathers then this safe as houses baby will bore you to tears. Here’s the thing though, sometimes I want to smell understated but still fragrant enough that I remember my perfumista-hood. Leather and lightly tropical white flowers, kind of aftershave-y. NO, that’s not right, kind of SHAVE CREAMY but subtle, low key and beautiful. The vanilla and rose don’t play big parts for me but right down the dying breaths I can tell they have been playing all along.

While I’m not currently in a position to buy these, in the near future more discretionary funds will be available and I’m hoping CHANEL holds off long enough for me to get there and at least get Coromandel and Cuir de Russie. Oh, and Bois des Iles.

So which CHANEL extrait would you throw money on the counter for?
Portia xx

 

Saturday Question: What Do You Mispronounce In Perfumeland?

This question was suggested by Portia in response to my comment on the Arancia Di Capri by Acqua di Parma: Blu Mediterraneo Series post.

Saturday Question on Undina's Looking Glass

Saturday Question #226:

What Do You Mispronounce In Perfumeland?

Are there any perfume names, brands, perfumers or notes that you know now that you used to mispronounce?

My Answer

As I told Portia, for years I was reading the brand’s name as Acqua di Pharma. Not only I read it like that, I also recorded it in my database. And partially because of that I felt somewhat dismissive towards their perfumes. I didn’t avoid them completely and tried several, but I weren’t too motivated to seek them out.

Since then, I’ve corrected both my perception and database entry, but that initial feeling is still somewhere deep in my mind.

 

How about you?

What Do You Mispronounce In Perfumeland?