Sorting Hat: Perfume Categories

One of my New Year resolutions was to add a new option for classifying my perfumes. I got the idea a long ago after reading annemariec’s article on beauty on the outside blog.

There is no real purpose to that classification; I’m doing it just for amusement, so I’m not trying to be too precise.

Perfume CategoriesI think I can do it with the following categories:

Mall scents – this category will include drugstore, catalog and specialty shop perfumes (e.g. Yves Rocher, Body Shop, Pacifica, Crabtree & Evelyn, Demeter);

Mainstream – this category will include mass-market, designer and celebrity perfumes (e.g. Estee Lauder, Lancome, Prada, YSL, Thierry Mugler, Bvlgari);

High-end mainstream – e.g. Chanel, Guerlain, Hermes, Jo Malone;

Boutique – this category will include perfumes sold in brands’ boutiques and exclusive lines (e.g. Chanel, Guerlain, Dior, Tom Ford, Hermes);

Niche – e.g. L’Artisan, Annick Goutal , Atelier Cologne, Histoires de Parfums, Ineke;

High-end niche – e.g. Amouage, Serge Lutens,  Frederic Malle, By Kilian, Puredistance;

Indie – e.g. DSH Perfumes,  Sonoma Scent Studio, Tauer Perfumes, Aftelier Perfumes;

One of a kind – this category will include vintage, bespoke and other odds-and-ends perfumes that I cannot put in any other basket.

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Can you think of any perfumes, lines or brands that won’t fit into these categories?

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Image: my own

New Year Resolutions, Part I: 2011 Round Up

New Year resolutions… Crowds in gyms and dance classes usually subside by mid-February allowing regulars to go back to their normal routines. Healthier eating habits get buried under stress of a “holiday-less” life and kitchen catch-all drawers stay in their natural state that makes finding any useful thing we put in there at some point an adventure.

In the beginning of 2011 I decided to see at least one of my New Year resolutions through. The resolution was: I will wear one of my favorite perfumes at least two times a week. By that time I’d created already a database to hold information about perfumes in my collection. So all I needed to add was a diary part where I could record my perfumes usage.

I’m proud to report that in all twelve months of 2011 I followed my NY resolution and gave perfumes in my permanent collection the attention they deserve. In addition to that, my numbers collecting provided me with a lot of interesting though probably not that useful data points which I’d shared with my readers in the Quick stats section of my monthly reports.

I was very curious to see the numbers for the whole year. So, here they are.

Quick 2011 stats:

* Different perfumes worn/tested: 376 (303 tested for the first time and 73 previously tested – see the chart by month) from 110 brands;

2011 statistics: perfumes worn by month* Perfumes I wore just once: 191;

* My Top 10 Brands (perfume house I wore/tested most often): see the chart, click on it for a full size;

My Top 10 Brands in 2011

* My Top 10 Perfumes (those that I wore the most often):

Perfume

Times Worn

№19 EdT by Chanel

16

Heure Exquise by Annick Goutal

13

Tiare by Ormonde Jayne

12

№19 Poudre by Chanel

10

Bronze Goddess by Estee Lauder

9

Iris Poudre by Frederic Malle

9

Une Rose Vermeille by Tauer Perfumes

9

Antonia by Puredistance

8

Jeux de Peau by Serge Lutens

8

Ta’if by Ormonde Jayne

8

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Coming up in the next couple of days New Year Resolutions, Part II: Perfumed resolutions for 2012.

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Images: my own

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See also year end posts and Top N lists for 2011 from the friendly blogs:

Another Perfume Blog: Best Perfumes of 2011: A Joint Blogging Event

beauty on the outside: Highlights from 2011

EauMG: Best of 2011 – Perfume Blogging Event

eyeliner on a cat: Best Fragrances of 2011

From Top to Bottom: My 2011

Muse in Wooden Shoes: 2011: The Year’s Fragrance Releases in Review

Olfactoria’s Travels: The Best Of 2011 – My Favorite Perfumes Of The Year

Perfume in Progress: Some thoughts as the year ends

Persolaise – A Perfumer’s Blog: The Best Perfumes Of 2011 & Thoughts On Independence

Pieces of paper, squiggy lines: My Favorite Fragrant discoveries of 2011

Scent of the Day: My Favorites of 2011

Scents of Self: Forgotten Fragrances of 2011

The Alembicated Genie: Best of the Best 2011 – Perfumes and Perfumers and Best of the Best 2011 – Worn and Adored

The Candy Perfume Boy: The Candy Perfume Boy’s Best Picks of 2011

The Non-Blonde: 2011 In Perfume- Delights & Rants

New Year Resolutions: November

In November, which was wonderful in our area this year, I both wore and tested even less perfumes than the month before. I’m not sure but I think it happened because I wanted to spend more time with my favorite perfumes – wearing them and not just visiting briefly in between tests of more and more new samples. Also I was working on my short-list of perfumes-candidates for joining my collection this holiday season. I’m down to six and working on the final choice(s).

My short-list: Une Rose Vermeille by Tauer Perfumes, Cuir de Russie by Chanel, Vert Pour Madame by DSH, Ambre Fetiche by Annick Goutal, Arabian Wood by Tom Ford, Ginger Ciao by Yosh.

Also, I just realized that in the last couple of weeks almost every night I was using Sonoma Scent Studio‘s Fig Tree shea butter as my night hand cream and it automatically excludes wearing any other sleep scent (I wrote more about it in my recent post).

Quick November stats:

November statistics: number of wears per brand* Different perfumes worn/tested: 61 (-3) from 24 (-6) brands on 79 (-6) occasions;

* Favorite perfumes worn: 16 (+2) on 21 occasions (+2);

* Perfumes I tried for the first time: 16 (-9);

* Perfume house I wore/tested most often: Serge Lutens, Chanel and Tom Ford;

* Most popular notes (only from perfumes I chose to wear, not those that I tested for the first time): top – (not counting bergamot) rose, galbanum and mandarin; middle – (since rose and jasmine keep that position unchallenged I include the next notes in the list) ylang ylang and iris; base – vanilla, sandalwood, musk and patchouli.

* Total number of different notes in all perfumes I wore/tested this month:  176 (-49).

 

Is December (holiday season) different in any way when it comes to building your collection? Do you buy more as a gift to yourself? Do you buy less to slow down at least in the last month of the year?

Image: my own

New Year Resolutions: October

I loved our October this year: it was a summer we didn’t have! I did experience some cognitive dissonance reading everybody’s Top N Fall Fragrances lists but I consider it a small cost for the most beautiful weather we had.

I still manage to wear my favorite perfumes more often than targeted “twice a week” but some of those wears were done in parallel with something new being tested (and compared).

In October I tested much less new perfumes. It means that the amount of untested samples in my collection keeps growing. In the attempt to stay in control of those multiplying samples I imposed a rule: no testing is done unless a sample is entered into the database. What can I say? I had 12 of those as of this morning… and now there are 17. I swear they procreate!

There are several reasons why I test less new perfumes. First, during this month I wore several favorite perfumes that required the commitment: they just kept going and going on my skin. Luckily for me I love them. But they do not leave any room for a meaningful testing of new scents.

Quick October stats:

Perfumes by the type of bottle* Different perfumes worn/tested: 64 (0) from 30 brands on 85 (+7) occasions;

* Favorite perfumes worn: 14 on 19 occasions (-9);

* Perfumes I tried for the first time: 25 (-5);

* Perfume house I wore/tested most often: Tom Ford for the WTD, Chanel and Amouage – just because I like them;

* Most popular notes (only from perfumes I chose to wear, not those that I tested for the first time): top – (not counting bergamot) mandarin, and rose; middle – (since rose and jasmine keep that position unchallenged I include the next notes in the list) iris and ylang ylang; base – musk, sandalwood and vanilla;

* Total number of unique notes in all perfumes I wore/tested this month:  225 (-4);

* Perfumes longevity of which prevented other perfumes testing: Ormonde Jayne Ta’if , Thierry Mugler Angel, Le Labo Rose 31 and Teo Cabanel Alahine.

Did you wear recently any perfumes that claimed your undivided attention for the whole day?

Image: my own

New Year Resolutions: September

Finally I caught up on summer. Not only because I went on an eight days Hawaii vacation but also because Northern California’s gods of Nature finally smiled upon us and allowed for a couple of weeks of warm and sunny weather in September.

Have you seen a Kindle vs. iPad commercial where it emphasizes how easy it is to read Kindle even in a direct sunlight when it’s hard to do on iPad due to reflexions? I can confirm the iPad part: you should have seen me trying to read your blogs at the beach! In my beach chair I would curl almost into a fetal position around my iPad trying to cover it by my hat and my arms to see something on the screen. Still most of the time I managed to stay updated (commenting though was slightly harder with a spotty 3G reception).

Since I decided not to do any testing during my vacation both testing and wearing favorite perfumes numbers are unusual: I wore my favorite perfumes much more often than I set as a goal in my NY resolutions but on the downside I didn’t get to test as many perfumes as I’d like.

After reading at another perfume blog about the half of the perfumes in the collection not getting ratings because of not being tested [enough] I got curious about my collection. I have roughly 100 (a hundred!) samples I haven’t tested even once. And I didn’t even dare to count those I tried once or twice and plan on testing again! Of course, some of those that I haven’t tried are samples of mainstream fragrances I wasn’t particularly looking for and might never try (unless one of you sings love to it in your blog) but still.

Quick September stats:

Perfumes worn in September by country* Different perfumes worn/tested: 64 (-19) on 78 occasions by 34 brands from 7 countries;

* Favorite perfumes worn: 19 on 28 occasions (+9);

* Perfumes I tried for the first time: 30 (-21);

* Perfume I wore the most often – Bronze Goddess by Estee Lauder;

* Perfume house I wore/tested most often: Annick Goutal;

* Most popular notes (only from perfumes I chose to wear, not those that I tested for the first time): top – (not counting bergamot) mandarin, orange blossom and pear; middle – (since rose and jasmine keep that position unchallenged I include the next notes in the list) iris and ylang ylang; base – musk, amber and patchouli;

* Total number of different notes in all perfumes I wore/tested this month:  229 (-39).

Out of all perfumes I’ve tested for the first time during September on 10 occasions I didn’t like what I smelled, on 16 I had a positive reaction and on 7 the reaction was neutral.

Do you care for the country of origin of the perfume you try/wear?

Image: my own

New Year Resolutions: August

No summer in our area this year (two hot days in July and two in August) – check.

Wore favorite perfumes three, sometimes four times a week (better than my New Year resolution of two times per week) – check.

Did more testing and less writing – check.

Quick August stats:

Stats for August* Different perfumes worn/ tested: 83 (+18) from 36 brands on 91 occasions;

* Favorite perfumes worn: 16 on 19 occasions (-6);

* Perfumes I tried for the first time: 51 (+15);

* Perfume house I wore most often: Chanel – I seem to be drawn to the brand this summer;

* Most popular notes (only from perfumes I chose to wear, not those that I tested for the first time): top – (not counting bergamot) carnation and pepper; middle – (since rose and jasmine keep that position unchallenged I’ll start including the next notes in the list) iris and ylang ylang; base – musk, sandalwood and vanilla;

* Total number of different notes in all perfumes I wore/tested this month:  268 (+50).

Out of all perfumes I’ve tested for the first time during August one was added to my collection, one went to the “to buy” list, thirty eight I will test more and eleven were sent to the purgatory box.

My August posting I wish more people would read – Know-how: Storing Your Perfume Samples.

What is yours? (post a link in your comment)

Image: my own

New Year Resolutions: July

End of July, still no real summer for our area and I’m still not complaining. If I weren’t trying to give a fair rotation to my “summer” scents I could still easily wear most of my winter favorites. I’m still being really good with my New Year Resolution to wear the perfumes I own and love at least two times a week. I tend to do it even more often now since my “permanent collection” (full bottles or decants that I acquired by choice) grew significantly in the last seven months.

Responses to perfumes tested in JulyQuick July stats:

* Different perfumes worn/tested: 65 (+15) from 34 brands on 71 occasions;

* Favorite perfumes worn: 20 on 25 occasions (-5);

* Perfumes I tried for the first time: 36 (+21);

* Perfume house I wore most often: Chanel (as I was trying to figure out if I was happy with my unsniffed purchase of Chanel No. 19 Poudre or regretted it);

* Most popular notes (only from perfumes I chose to wear, not those that I tested for the first time): top – (not counting bergamot) mandarin, rose and galbanum; middle – rose and jasmine; base – musk, sandalwood and vetiver;

* Most popular notes (from perfumes I tested for the first time): top – (not counting bergamot) lemon, freesia, grapefruit, rose and tangerine; middle – jasmine and rose; base – musk and vanilla. Clearly, I’m testing perfumes that are different from what I choose to wear currently;

* Total number of different notes in all perfumes I wore/tested this month:  218.

While thinking about this post a week ago I thought of a question to ask and came up with one – only to find its variations on two friendly blogs in the next couple of days: Weekend Poll just for fun: 3 Scents in Heavy Rotation (eyeliner on a cat) and Monday Question – What Are Your Five Most Versatile Perfumes? (Olfactoria’s Travels). As Birgit commented: “a common unconscious in Perfumeland.” That made me think in the opposite direction from favorite perfumes – samples.

Since my success rate for the first time testing isn’t too high (see the chart: I have a positive reaction in less than 50% of cases) I try to run those tests at home or while running errands. To the office or parties I wear those perfumes that I know I like. It leaves less time for testing and the number of untested samples – bought, swapped or obtained from stores, – grows.

What if for a month you were to wear only those perfumes you already have (bottles or decants) and had to choose three new, never tested or even smelled before samples – which would you choose?

My answer: Plum by Mary Greenwell, Green Witch by Roxana Illuminated Perfume and Honor Woman by Amouage. I do not have any of these yet but if I had to limit myself to just three perfumes for testing I would want to try these three.

Image: my own

New Year Resolutions: June

Since the end of the last year when I made my resolution to spend more time with perfumes I love and own I’ve improved my relationships with y collection significantly: even if I spend a day testing new perfumes I go to bed wearing something I like. And still I have more perfumes that I want to wear than time to do so. What will I do when my collection grows?

June statsQuick June stats:

* Different perfumes worn/tested: 50 (5 less than last month) on 63 occasions;
* Favorite perfumes worn: 19 on 30 occasions (+7);
* Perfumes I tried for the first time: 15 (-2);
* Perfume house I wore most often: Jo Malone (for the third season of the weeklong test drive) and Chanel;
* Most popular notes (only from perfumes I chose to wear, not those that I tested for the first time): top – (not counting bergamot) rose and violet; middle – rose and jasmine; base – musk and sandalwood. The only change in comparison to the previous month is violet in the top position.
* The most popular beginning letter in perfumes names this month was letter C.

Do you have any trivia facts about your perfume collection or usage habits?

Image: my own

New Year Resolutions: May

I’m still on the course of wearing one of my favorite perfumes at least a couple of times a week. This month on most occasions I did wear those perfumes and didn’t just test or use them for a comparison. On one hand, it allows me to enjoy perfumes that I love more often. On the other, it leaves me less time for testing.

May StatsQuick May stats:

* Different perfumes worn/tested: 55 (-5) on 70 occasions;
* Favorite perfumes worn: 15 on 23 occasions (+7);
* Perfumes I tried for the first time: 17 (-9). Loved 2 (unfortunately, both are vintage – Dioressense and Diorling), liked 5, disliked 5 and on 5 was undecided;
* Perfume house I wore most often: Frederic Malle and Sonoma Scent Studio (I wore perfumes from those on 6 and 5 different occasions correspondingly)
* Perfume house I tested the most: Yves Rocher (for the second weeklong test drive)
* Most popular notes1: top – (not counting bergamot) mandarin and rose; middle – rose and jasmine followed really closely by iris root; base – musk and sandalwood.

While composing that statistics I also found several of my favorite perfumes that I’ve been neglecting for a long time. I didn’t wear elle by Yves Saint Laurent and Lotus Blossom & Water Lily by Jo Malone for at least six month. It can be explained partially by the fact that I consider them both summer fragrances and it’s barely spring now in our area. But I still feel bad: I should get them some attention.

Are there any of your favorite perfumes that you weren’t spending any time with for many months?

1 Excludes those perfumes that I tried for the first time not to skew the picture of the notes/seasons correlation.

Image: my own

New Year Resolutions: April

Wore one of my favorites at least a couple of times a week – check.

I’ve decided to change which fragrances I count towards the notes and brands statistics: I will exclude those that I tried for the first time not to skew the picture of the notes/seasons correlation.

Quick April stats:

Top notes in April* Different perfumes worn/tested: 60 (1 less than in the previous month)
* Favorite perfumes worn: 14 (-7)
* Perfumes I tried for the first time: 26 (-1)
* Perfume house I wore most often: Jo Malone (I wore it on 5 different occasions)
* Perfume house I tested the most: Annick Goutal (for the first weeklong test drive )
* Most popular notes: top – (not counting bergamot) rose and pink pepper; middle – rose and jasmine; base – musk, vanilla and sandalwood.

Image: my own