Visiting Three Monarchies, Part 1: London

London is one of my top three favorite cities in the World, so I dreamed of going back there since my last visit 7 years ago. And since from this city my travel down the niche perfume rabbit hole has started, perfumes played a big part in this vacation.

Tara (A Bottled Rose) with whom I finally met and Vanessa (Bonkers about Perfume) who managed to get to London to spend time with us described our excursions in great details (see here, here and here), so I won’t repeat their wonderful reports but add to them some of my perfumed stories.


After the last visit’s fiasco with a “studio apartment” that turned out to be a tiny hot mansard shoe-box, I paid an extra attention to choosing a place to stay. We got a very nice and quiet flat, 2-minutes’ walk from the underground station and 4-minutes’ walk to the Hyde Park. On arrival we’d got a little scare from the nearby church clock’s Westminster Quarters chiming. But, as we discovered to my vSO’s relief, they would go silent during night. So we got as much sleep as jet lag would allow.

Flat in London

Perfumes I took with me

How does one choose, which perfumes to bring on a vacation? Any criteria are good – as long as they make sense to the wearer. This time I had an idea that I should bring only perfumes from the brands local for the countries on my itinerary. Also, since I ran out of decanting supplies, my choice was limited by perfumes, for which I had decants, travel bottles or at least samples. For the U.K., I brought English Pear & Freesia and White Lilac & Rhubarb from Jo Malone and Ta’if, Ormonde Woman, Vanille d’Iris and Sampaquita from Ormonde Jayne. I enjoyed wearing the first three (especially Ta’if, my love to which was born 7 years ago in London); Ormonde Woman unexpectedly didn’t work for me (though it might have been a side-effect of the sudden allergy attack I suffered that day); Vanille d’Iris was very pleasant but not enough to warrant a bottle purchase (determining that was the reason for bringing the sample with me); and Sampaquita was a straight-forward scrubber (initially I thought that the sample was off but on return I checked my notes and discovered that I had the same thoughts when I tested it on the previous occasion – and that time it was a different sample vial).

Perfumes I tested

Having visited Liberty, Harrods (including Salon de Parfums), Selfridges, Les Senteurs and Ormonde Jayne, I smelled at least a couple of hundred fragrances. Of course, for most of them it was a quick “sprayer sniff”: I know that it is far from ideal but while on a testing spree, you need some approach to discriminating between perfumes that warrant a paper test or even your valuable skin “real estate” and those that should stay safely in their original vessels. So I want to mention just several perfumes that attracted my attention enough to get at least on signed blotters.

Salon de Parfums in Harrods

Out of all Ormonde Jayne perfumes I tested this time, I thought I liked Ambre Royal and Jardin d’Ombre but both happened to be more interesting and lasing on paper than on my skin. Tauer’s Amber Flash, which is times less expensive (and less exclusive!) than Ambre Royal, was so much more pleasant and unique that I almost feel obligated to buy a bottle of it. White Gold caught my attention, mostly, because it was Selfridges’ exclusive. But I wasn’t even tempted to try it on skin.

As I discovered when I returned home, I have previously tried Caron Parfum Sacré and didn’t like it then. But when I tested it this time, prompted by Vanessa who loves it, I liked it. I should probably dig out my sample and try it again.

I also tried a couple of Parfums de Marly fragrances, the names of which I kept reading in male-dominant perfume swap group on FB – Layton and Pegasus. I liked them very much, and I see this brand in my vSO’s future.

Perfumes tested in London

Perfumes I didn’t buy

Strictly speaking, I haven’t bought all those 200+ perfumes that I tested. What I mean is that since I had a plan to bring back with me perfume from each of my trip’s destinations, while sniffing and testing, I narrowed down the list of the favorites that I considered as candidates to accompany me back to the U.S. In the end I decided not to buy them – for different reasons.

By Killian’s Black Phantom – Memento Mori caught me by surprise: I didn’t expect to like it as much as I did. Lucas in his review of this perfume mentioned that he disliked “the presentation with a skull on a lacquered case.” That made me thinking about why it didn’t affect me the same way; and if I were to venture a guess, the answer lies in where I encountered Black Phantom for the first time: it looked quite àpropos amid exaggerated luxury of the Harrod’s Salon de Parfum. And it was presented by Kilian’s replica (if you haven’t yet, take a look at the picture in Tara’s post linked above). Though I liked Black Phantom, I decided to test it more first since it is kind of available where I live. Besides, By Kilian isn’t the U.K. brand.

By Kilian Black Phantom

Partially for the same reason (not a local brand) I decided not to buy Isabey Fleur Nocturne. But I liked that floral chypre (with the stress on “floral”), and I plan to spend more time testing it since I got a sample from Les Senteurs.

By Kilian’s Midnight in London, which I liked a lot from the first sniff on paper and through its development on my wrist, could have probably fit the bill despite the brand’s origin: it is a limited edition perfume, specific to the place. But Midnight in London takes the notion of “limited” to the extreme: according to Kilian’s double, there is just a single set of that perfume created (see the picture below), and once it is sold, there will be no more produced. In the conversation I heard the price as £50,000. Later Tara assuaged me that the price was mere £15,000 – had I but known!

By Kilian Midnight In London

Compared to that, Roja Dove’s semi-bespoke chypre No 5, which I unexpectedly liked after dismissing most of the brand’s creations as “not me,” seems almost a bargain. And it is a real British brand. But even if I had rumored £1,000 to spend on perfume, that commitment would have required more than just a cursory sniff. Since I didn’t plan on spending that much, I didn’t even go for a skin test for this No 5 (about which I slightly regret now).

Ormonde Jayne Rose Gold would have been a perfect choice: perfume from the brand that played such an important role in my perfume life! I think I tried to persuade myself that I liked Rose Gold. But the truth was: while I liked it probably the most of all the new perfumes from the line that I’ve tried, after wearing it a couple of times, I realized that it wasn’t perfume I needed. It’s with sadness that I have to conclude that Ormonde Jayne’s  new “luxury” undertakings leave me cold.

Ormonde Jayne Rose Gold

Tom Daxon Magnolia Heights stayed on my list for the longest time. I knew nothing about the brand until Vanessa and I discovered it at Les Senteurs with the perfume in question, as Vanessa had noticed and commented, placed appropriately on the top shelf in the store. I liked it, tested several times and seriously considered finding space for it in my suitcase: I have a soft spot for floral perfumes, if you haven’t noticed it; Tom Daxton is a brand from the U.K; and to get it I wouldn’t have to part with any of my extremities. Magnolia Heights seemed to tick all the boxes but in the end I decided not to buy it. Why? It might sound strange but that was what happened: at some point I thought that it smelled similar to my other favorite – Guerlain Cruel Gardenia, so I went to the store to do the comparison. While I proved to myself that I was wrong: Magnolia Heights gave me a similar vibe but it smelled different, at the same time I realized that I liked Cruel Gardenia so much more that it didn’t make any sense to buy Magnolia Heights when I could just wear Cruel Gardenia more often.

Tom Daxon Magnolia Heights

It was a great trip, and I enjoyed it immensely. Tara and Vanessa made it even more special than it was shaping out on its own. My vSO and I love London even more now, and we’ll be back there, hopefully soon. Oh, and if you were wondering, I did buy perfume in London. But it won’t be fair to it to introduce it in the end of the long post – so I’ll do it in a separate post after I finish with the other two stops on my trip.


Images: my own


23 thoughts on “Visiting Three Monarchies, Part 1: London

  1. Sounds like you had a lot of fun. Smelling perfume together with Tara and Vanessa was probably like your private Sniffapalooza.

    I’m very much looking forward to learn what perfume did you buy in London


    • Sniffing in a small company is even better: you do not overwhelm SAs, but, at the same time there are several of you to keep them occupied :)
      The trip was fun (at least this part). I’ll tell more soon.

      Liked by 1 person

  2. I really enjoyed reliving the London leg of your trip through your post! You were such a whirling dervish of efficiency and it reminded me how much you managed to sniff, and in what an organised and hierarchical manner.

    I am on a resisting perfume expenditure kick, so I didn’t spring for anything on impulse, though it came very close with Fils de Dieu. Glad the discovery of that lofty scent by Tom Daxton has led to a deeper appreciation of Cruel Gardenia.

    I look forward to reading about the other trips, and I will just also add that meeting you all again was a highlight of the year!


    • Thank you, Vanessa. It was really a pleasure (though I still don’t understand how you survive crossing streets like that ;) ).
      Wait to read about my next sniffathon!

      I was thinking… Can I still call it a spontaneous buy if I got started on sniffing with the goal to find perfume to buy?


    • The company was the best part of the trip – but you know that probably by now with all your trips.
      Believe it or not, initially I planned to do one travel post and conclude it with new perfumes pictures. I even bribed Rusty already to take those pictures. But I don’t have enough talent to convey everything I want in succinct manner – so now you’ll have to watch the next episode ;)


  3. I greatly admire how discerning you are, Undina — how your spending isn’t dictated by emotion but by your ability to step back, pause, and assess whether you really feel that the perfume in question is one you will continue to enjoy down the road, so to speak.

    So glad to hear that you had a lovely time with Tara and Vanessa. The flat where you stayed looks like it was lovely, too. Were the roses put there by the owner? It’s a nice touch!


    • Funny enough, I didn’t remember those roses until I started working with the pictures for this post: since those were artificial roses, I moved them aside probably right after I took this photo :) But they look nice here, I agree.
      I suspect that sometimes I overthink those decisions but since I feel right doing it this way, and my vSO is the only suffering party (and he’s being extremely patient and understanding), I won’t try to change that.


  4. A sniffathon in London and a meet-up with perfumistas, how nice! The surprises for me were: the lukewarm response to Ormond Jayne and the Roja Dove semi-acceptance! Looking forward to Part 2 and the reveal of the vacation perfume! Glad you’re back!


    • I was not that much surprised but rather upset by not liking OJ any longer. And I was somewhat disappointed by their flagship store: I can’t say what exactly was not the way I’d like it to be but something was off.
      I’m glad to be back though. I missed the online perfume community.


  5. Late to the comment party, even if I read your post strait away 😊
    It sounds like you had a wonderful stay in London. I’m surprised at the church bells, when I lived there I heard that bells would no longer chime in London, but perhaps that was only on weekends??? Which is odd enough.
    Black Phantom is growing on me, although it’s too gourmand for me to ever be love. And why would a mimosa scent have anything to do with London by night? Oh, I see you didn’t write anything about mimosa, perhaps Tara did? 15.000£, but seriously. Perhaps these are t even meant to be sold, but simply as a tourist attraction? 😄


    • You’re never late! I love talking to all of my friends, and since they do not talk to each other much in my posts, it doesn’t really matter when each of you find time to drop in – I’m glad you did.

      When we were walking around, we heard several more chimes – so I don’t know what the change was supposed to be. But we were happy they didn’t do it at night.

      I need to get Black Phantom sample and tried it again. So far the only FB of By Kilian I’ve got is Amber Oud in the “refill” format so I doubt any gourmand perfume will become a FB for me. But I might go for a decant. As to the 15K pounds… I’m contemplating a post on the subject. Once I get through with my travel posts :)


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