Saturday Question: What Are Your Top 10 (5? 3? Any?) Favorite Perfumes of 2024?

I hope everyone who celebrates had wonderful time with people (and furry creatures) important in your life. One more holiday to go – and then another year waiting for the next holiday season. Oh, well… Meanwhile, let’s see what this year brought us in terms of our common hobby.

 

Saturday Question on Undina's Looking Glass

 

Saturday Question #246:

What Are Your Top 10 (5? 3? Any?) Favorite Perfumes of 2024?

Do you remember years in the past when bloggers ran multiple lists of the best perfumes of the year, sometimes in different categories, from different authors… These days, I wouldn’t trust most of the lists that are made to place affiliated links to those products. But in our almost hermetic environment, let’s name those perfumes that impressed you in 2024. And if you can’t come up with anything created this year, it might be something significant that you tried this year for the first time.

My Answer

I was sloppy this year with my record keeping: I still have some records that are stored in the text file that I need to transfer to my database. So, I might be a couple of perfumes off. But looking through my database, I see that in total, I tested just about 15 perfumes created in 2024.

Out of these 15, I kind of liked 3 of the 4 perfumes in Jo Malone‘s Scented Mementos limited edition collection (Ginger Beer, Passiflora and Emerald Thyme) and two perfumes from  The Estée Lauder Legacy Collection (Azuree Legacy and Estee Legacy). But this “like” was as in “it was pleasant, I might consider finishing my sample,” and it haven’t resulted in buying anything.

The only new favorite that I want to mention was 2023 Ormonde Jayne release, Arabesque, that I tried and appreciated this year.

 

How about you?

 

What Are Your Top 10 (5? 3? Any?) Favorite Perfumes of 2024?

Saturday Question: Will You Give Any Fragrant Gifts This Holiday Season?

Holidays are officially here. Christmas, Hanukkah, New Year. Love and look forward to all of them.

Saturday Question on Undina's Looking Glass

Saturday Question #245:

Will You Give Any Fragrant Gifts This Holiday Season?

Not necessarily perfume, but anything scent-related – candles, room sprays, aroma diffusers, etc.?

Do you expect to get any presents of this type yourself?

My Answer

This year, we keep the gift exchange to a minimum. The closest to the topic of this SQ gift that I’m giving is a set of skincare products for my MIL: I made sure they are scented because I noticed that she didn’t enjoy a great, in my opinion, scent-free moisturizer from Ordinary that I gave her.

I know that I’m getting a scented item as a New Year gift from my vSO. It was my choice, and I’ll write about it soon. I can’t wait to use it!

 

How about you?

Will You Give Any Fragrant Gifts This Holiday Season?

Shalimar Reflections

Hi Crew. We are in the summer heat here in Sydney. It’s gorgeous but there are days when I’d like to shirk my skin and lie around just bones under the fan. The heat itself is fine but the humidly tends to have me wilt just a little. So how does Shalimar fit into the heat? Well, I have a bottle of the extrait on my desk. It was a gift from one of my dearest friends. Whenever the world gets overwhelming I give myself a swipe on my forearm and suddenly everything seems less spectacularly oppressive. This year has had some significant bumps, mainly business related. Though I’ve run businesses for years I’m not actually very good at it. Fortunately my ideas have been good enough to push through my basic inability to function. Of course with every changing of the guard there are growing and dying pains. Study has also been a big part of the year and I’m poor at focus and time management, HA! That’s being generous. Seriously. Add to that the many plates spinning at any given time. Trivia, apartments, blogging perfume, cleaning house and laundry PLUS now studying and doing book reviews. One wheel gets shaky and my whole train collapses in a heap. I know, definitely the problems of the wealthy. I’m super grateful for everything we have. Also, fully acknowledged how fortunate we are in terms of home, work, love and friends. Jin recently moved up and across at his work and if I can get my bloody Celebrant Course done then there will be an extra cash stream to pick up the rising interest cost of the mortgage.

Sorry, I got sidetracked.

Shalimar Reflections

Shalimar and Reflections

There are dozens of note list but here’s a pretty good summation:
Bergamot, lemon, iris, jasmine, rose, patchouli, vetiver, opopanax, tonka bean, frankincense, sandalwood, musk, civet, ambergris, leather, vanilla

This evening the world got overwhelming. Just too much input and it left me breathless.

SWIPE

Seriously, the relief to just let myself revel in the inimitable beauty of Shalimar extrait. Suddenly my shoulders unclench, my back straightens and I can quietly go have a lie down under the fan for 15 minutes and get lost in the fragrance.

Shalimar is also chock full of happy memories of Mum and some of her girlfriends that wore it as daywear. Big fragrant hugs and them all laughing, planning, chattering, sniping over lunch or afternoon tea. Not always happy, there were meetings of solidarity for all of life’s aches and pains, home troubles, illness or financial woes. Still, though there were tears, the love held them all together.

It has since become one of my go-to event fragrances. The event might be a big gig, party, dinner or it may be to make a mundane event like groceries and cleaning into something wonderful.

So with Shalimar I get not only to drift off with the scent but also a plethora of memories.

Do you have a fragrance that gives you surcease but also is full of magical memories?
Portia xx

 

Saturday Question: Where Do You Forage for Perfume Content?

First, I want to share something not related to this week’s question. Do you remember a SQ from a couple of months ago? Which Perfumes Would You Take If You Had To Evacuate? Last week, I went through that exercise. We had a tsunami warning and an evacuation… well, not order but advice. We had about 30 minutes to collect things and drive to a higher grounds. Since even in the worst case scenario I didn’t expect that water would come to the second floor where my perfume collection resides, I voted against trying to pack even those 5 perfumes from my list, but took a single bottle from the top of that list – Lancome Climat. Luckily, soon after we got to the grocery store on the hill, the warning was lifted, and we could return home. All-in-all, it wasn’t the most pleasant experience. I do not recommend. But back to this week’s question.

Saturday Question on Undina's Looking Glass

Saturday Question #244:

Where Do You Forage for Perfume Content?

Which blogs do you read? Do you visit any of the forums/sites? Do you belong to any Facebook perfume groups? Do you use Instagram? X? Do you subscribe to any newsletters? Watch YouTube channels? Something else I didn’t think of?

My Answer

My perfume world has shrunk significantly in the last several years. I still read all blogs from the “My Reading List” section (see the list on the right (desktop)/further down (mobile)). I am still subscribed to several more blogs that are hidden from the list because they stopped publishing, so if a new post appears, I’ll read it.

I regularly visit Instagram, but I’m not actively seeking any new content and mostly watch perfume-related posts from people I follow.

I stopped using Facebook (for no particular reason), and Twitter was abandoned by the most of whom I followed long time before it became X.

I tried watching several perfume channels on YouTube, but as much as I like beauty content, seeing perfume bottles and hearing scents’ descriptions weren’t “my thing.”

So, my main grazing ground is Perfume Blogosphere.

 

How about you?

Where Do You Forage for Perfume Content?

Saturday Question: What Is The Most Mainstream Perfume In Your Collection?

Recently, I watched a random beauty channel on YouTube where the creator repeatedly mentioned being “into perfume” and having another perfume-centric channel. Then, over the course of the video, it became obvious that she wasn’t really familiar with Guerlain perfumes – other than vaguely knowing Shalimar and recalling trying one of the Aqua Allegoria scents. That made me realize that many people who like and buy perfumes might never venture beyond what’s offered at major department stores. Now I’m curious about your choices when it comes to that category of perfumes.

Saturday Question on Undina's Looking Glass

Saturday Question #243:

What Is The Most Mainstream Perfume In Your Collection?

You can define “mainstream” however you see fit. The only condition is that it must be a full bottle you bought yourself or swapped (so, no gifts or “pass-overs”).

My Answer

Eons ago, I created a classification system for perfumes in my collection (Sorting Hat: Perfume Categories). I subdivided them into the following categories: Mall scents, Mainstream,  High-end mainstream, Boutique, Niche, High-end niche, Indie and One of a kind. According to this system:

Mainstream – this category will include mass-market, designer and celebrity perfumes (e.g. Estee Lauder, Lancome, Prada, YSL, Thierry Mugler, Bvlgari);

Using this approach, I’d say the “most” mainstream perfume in my collection is Prada Infusion d’Iris EdP. It’s one of the few perfumes in this category in my collection that is still in production. Most of the rest, from my “civilian” days, have since been discontinued.

Perfume Categories

How about you?

What Is The Most Mainstream Perfume In Your Collection?

Secret Joly Oriza L. Legrand

Secret Joly Oriza L. Legrand

Howdy ULGers! I was trawling around in my cupboards this week and wasn’t quite sure what was going to get the spritz. I had plenty of time and a hankering for a forgotten beauty. Something I love but that has sat unremembered for a long while. The box with my Oriza also has Robert Piguet, Andrea Maack and Miller et Bertaux. To be honest, I thought it was going to be a Piguet kinda day. Maybe Bois Bleu or Alameda. When I looked in the box Secret Joly, a fragrance I’ve not worn in ages, called my name. OK. So I spritzed, and remembered why I bought it in the first place. I’ve pulled it out of the cupboard and it’s now own my desk. So wearing it for the third time in less than a fortnight I realized it needed a post.

Secret Joly by Oriza L. Legrand 2020

Oriza Legrand gives these featured accords:
Top: Hyacinth, Ylang-Ylang
Heart: Gardenia, Tuberose, Jasmine Sambac
Base: Civet, Tonkin Musk, Peruvian Balsam

Floral creaminess, a rich and hefty tropical miasma that is utterly entrancing. Secret Joly smells like nothing else but also has hints of a sneaky side eye reference to the BWF stunners of the 1980s. I think it’s the animalic undertow. Already the chosen flowers are pretty meaty but add some civet and musk style depths and GROWL.

If you’re expecting some gardenia blue cheese you will be disappointed. Well, it doesn’t show up on my wearings.

Normally I save Secret Joly for cool weather wearings. It is so ripe and warm and feels really cozy. Today is 36C and super humid here in Sydney and THIS PERFUME HAS BLOOMED!  I just took the dogs for a walk and the combination with the days heat and my bodies extra walking warmth and a bit of sweaty man. WHOA NELLY! I smell amazing. Eye rolling, mind blowing, heart racing amazing.

The last few wears since rediscovering Secret Joly have been fairly sedentary. Yesterday, by the time I went to aquarobics most of Secret Joly must have burned off beforehand because I just got some pretty reawakening and then the last vestiges washed off.

Definitely aimed at the girls but only a minor stretch to the guys and it smells F I N E!

Did you ever get your sniff on Secret Joly?
Portia xx

 

P.S. I also really loved Oriza Scotch Lavender and wish I’d bought a bottle.

Saturday Question: Do You Scent Your Home For Holidays?

Yes, it is December. Thanksgiving is behind us. Let’s decorate. Even if you do not have any holiday to celebrate this month or do not feel in the mood, let’s find something positive and worth looking forward to. Lights, scents and festive food usually help.

Saturday Question on Undina's Looking Glass

Saturday Question #242:

Do You Scent Your Home For Holidays?

Do you have any special ways to introduce holidays-related or holidays-inspired aromas into your home?

A bonus question: do you plan to decorate your space for any of the upcoming holidays?

My Answer

I love-love-love winter holidays! If the weather permits, we might put on outdoor lights this weekend. Since our tree is artificial, we can put it up at any time. I’m not sure when we will though. Probably not this weekend, but maybe next. But since it is artificial, I miss the smell of fir and resin that a natural tree brings. And to rectify that, over years, I introduced different sprays (one was very naturally smelling… but it had something headache-inducing, so I had to get rid of it), fir-scented candles (so far, I haven’t found the one I would like to re-purchase – any advice?) and, the most successful product, Frasier Fir hand wash from Thymes (I have a little left from the previous year, but I haven’t checked yet if it’s still good, and I need to get a refill soon).

Additionally, this year I decided to get a small natural wreath… but hang it inside – just for the smell. I found just what I was looking for at Trader Joe’s and hanged it on one of the walls using a sheet of foil wrap as a backdrop to prevent damage to the wall behind in case the branches used in the wreath still have any sap or resin left. I know it’s unorthodox, but once I got that idea in my head, I just had to do it.

Christmas Wreath

How about you?

Do You Scent Your Home For Holidays?

Saturday Question: Are You A Squirrel?

I was going to use the word “hoarder,” but it felt too serious for a lighthearted SQ. I decided to rephrase. As I discovered, various characteristics are attributed to this small furry creature and meanings of that comparison range widely (including quite cheesy pickup lines). I’m using it in a fun and lighthearted way to describe someone who keeps more than they need but isn’t truly excessive but in a sense of resourcefulness and foresight.

Saturday Question on Undina's Looking Glass

Saturday Question #241:

Are You A Squirrel?

First, let’s talk about perfumes. And to clarify further, we are not talking about the number of different perfumes in our collections (it is a collection after all). But what about different sizes, different concentrations, multiple “vintages” and backup bottles? Do you keep samples and decants even after you’ve gotten a bottle of that perfume? Do you have EdT, EdP and extrait of your favorite perfumes and then maybe a hair mist or a body lotion? If yes, do you wear all of these?

Switching the focus from perfumes, do you have a tendency to stash away acorns supplies for future use? Do you buy multiple items in advance when you get a good deal? Or do you live in the moment going by what you need now?

My Answer

Guilty. For perfumes I love, I want to have them in all possible versions and forms – sometimes even multiple bottles of the same size – and it’s tough for me to let go of a sample or decant, even if I already have a lifetime supply of that perfume. What if I need a smaller size to take with me? It’s irrational: not only can I always make myself a decant for traveling if I need to, but I also have no issues making a sample or a small decant from my bottle for someone else. But that first sample/decant that came before the bottle… Oh, and usually I wear only one of the versions I have – but I still want to have the rest. Just in case. Luckily, it’s just a handful of perfumes that make me feel this way.

With non-perfume stuff, I am awful: since I don’t like change, if something works for me – be it household items, supplies, beauty products or even clothes – I want to be able to use it… always. So, if there is a chance something will become unavailable, or if I find a good deal or a bulk purchase at a better per-unit price, my knee-jerk reaction is to buy and squirrel it away. I think I was always inclined to be over-prepared, but COVID has exacerbated it – not so much in terms of fearing unavailability, but rather to avoid being dependent on the external world or having to venture into it unless absolutely necessary.

This year “Black Friday month” is especially hard for me. I don’t think I’ve ever planned to or bought a big-ticket item during that traditional American pastime, so for years, I thought I was immune to it. But for the last 3 weeks, I’ve been bombarded with deals for the most mundane items – skincare, hair care, tea, socks, vitamins, cleaning supplies, etc., etc. And then, some non-recurring items are offered at a much better price than I saw them since I started watching them planning to buy eventually (for example, wine glasses I wanted to buy for a while). I can’t buy everything, even if it’s something I will use up (and eventually buy more): both my budget and storage space have limits I must respect. But psychologically, it bothers me that in six months, I might have to spend extra money on something I could have bought cheaper today – even if it’s just a $3-$5 difference.

 

How about you?

Are You A Squirrel?

Portia Reconnecting with Etat Libre d’Orange

Portia Reconnecting with Etat Libre d’Orange

Hey there Looking Glassers, I have long loved the fun and whimsy of Etat Libre d’Orange. They have so many distinctive fragrances, do a fabulous job of reimagining old tropes and twisting them with a new skew. Plus they are very reasonably priced in relation to modern niche as a whole. They were a lot more outrageous in their earlier years, playing for gimmick and shock in their marketing and presentation. I’m not terribly sad they’ve pretty much left that behind in favour of more staid and general public oriented display and scent.

 

Portia Reconnecting with Etat Libre d'Orange

Portia Reconnecting with Etat Libre d’Orange

Maybe you’d like to have a wander through my collection of Etat Libre d’Orange bottles with me? Just for clarity, some of these bottles I paid Retail for, bought off Sale Docs or at the Discounters and others are Press Bottles. My mate Bronwyn was the Australian distributor for ELdO so I’ve been lucky enough to try almost everything. This selection are the favorites I own, maybe I’ll do the others another day.

Fat Electrician

Vetiver and sparks from electrical wires. Slightly salty, dark and weird. One of my favourite vetivers ever.

I Am Trash

Worst title, loveliest scent. The apple is all loads of people talk about but it’s peripheral to me. My ride is a creamy floral, I’m constantly surprised it’s rose and not ylang or jasmine. Dry down is floral woods. So pretty and wearable.

Jasmin et Cigarette

This was on my To Buy List or a very long time but never seemed to make it all the way to a check out. Well, it finally did not so long ago. Bubblegum jasmine that pretty quickly gets a dark coating of tar and smoke. It’s bloody amazing how two such diverse scents work together in perfect harmony.

Noel au Balcon

Very elegant honeyed fruits and Christmassy cinnamon underpinned by vanilla rich amber and musks. I don’t know why this gets so little attention. It’s a stunner.

Spice Must Flow

True to its name. Spicy. Not ALL about spice though. Here we have the perfumers rose/saffron mix that has been so popular in the 21st century niche market. The way we smell it here is a little different though. Add on pepper, cinnamon, incense and patchouli in bucketloads. It’s beautifully created, hits my nose exactly how I’d like it to. Starts a bit rough and ends up smooth as silk.

The Afternoon Of A Faun

Immortelle and a bunch of other stuff. Thick and gluggy on arrival, freshly windswept by the end. So wearable but it’s HUGE so maybe a few less spritzes Portia.

Tom of Finland

Tom of Finland is not a filthy, sex laden, piss soaked, leather bar in Berlin. Shame really, that would have been revoltingly alluring. What we get is the waft of someone wearing their leathers in the next room while we are in our high heel cupboard, but a very soft version of that. It smells luxuriously subtle.

Yes, I Do

Sheer soft focus Lily of the Valley (LotV), sweetness added by the marshmallow and a very clean jasmine/orange blossom. Very little of the oft hyped funk and a bit of plasticky patchouli, but on the whole fresh, youthful and prim.

You or Someone Like You

The fragrance made to fit the mother of writer Chandler Burr in his semi autobiographical novel of the same name. What it smells like to me is a hike in the Australian scrub near a watercourse in early summer. Magic!

 

So what are your Etat Libre d’Orange loves and loathes?
Portia xx

Saturday Question: Do You Participate In Perfume Events?

Before COVID, in larger cities perfume enthusiasts used to organize in-person events – Sniffapalooza in New York, Perfume Lovers London and others. When the pandemic started, many events moved online, which made a lot of sense: samples can be delivered via post, and then the discussion might happen virtually. These days, some events returned to brick-and-mortar boutiques, while others maintain their online format. So, the question for you this week:

 

Saturday Question on Undina's Looking Glass

 

Saturday Question #240:

Do You Participate In Perfume Events?

Event in person where a specific brand is presenting their lineup (if it’s a new brand) or the most recent collection. Or a virtual one where samples are delivered in advance of the online meeting? If you do, do you enjoy the format? If you don’t, why?

My Answer

In the last couple of years, I’ve been in a low-buy to no-buy mode. So, from time to time I decide that, being a perfume blog, I have to do some testing of current offerings that I can’t try in my local department stores. So, from time to time, I sign up for online events that include receiving sets of samples. A part of signing up for these events, paying and receiving the sets work for me wonderfully: samples bought this way are much cheaper than you’d pay for the same number/volume of samples if you were to order them separately. But after that… I did connected to a couple of events organized by the Beautyhabit. But, in general, after trying perfumes when they arrive and not liking most of them (a regular thing for me), I don’t feel compelled to spend another hour listening to how the brand had arrived at the creation of perfumes that I didn’t like – so, after getting and testing samples I just skip the meeting itself.

The last brand I tried this way was Frederico Perfumes. It was organized by Sniffapalooza. I got a set of 6 perfume samples, tried them all and realized that since I do not even like, let alone love, any of them, I could care less about the story behind their creation. So, I skipped the meeting altogether.

There are a couple of in-person event in the next month in San Francisco, but since I do not plan to buy any of those perfumes, it doesn’t make much sense to attend them. I’m still eyeing the Beautyhabit‘s Up Close & Personal event with Parfums de Nicolai. They offer 5 new fragrances for $30 (including S&H and a $10 discount for future purchases), so it seems like a good offer – but I am not really into gourmand scents, and there’s just one Nicolai’s perfume that I like – so I’m not sure if I should spend even $30 to try these new perfumes…

So, if I’m being completely honest, I do not care much for these events, but I treat them as an opportunity to test perfumes I wouldn’t have otherwise, not expecting to find the next Holly Grail.

I know that you’re here not for this. But if have a postal address in the US and would like to try Frederico Perfumes, just add to your comment “I’m in the US” or “I’m in,” and I’ll add you to the draw for an almost new set of 5 samples from this brand – maybe they’ll work better for you.

 

How about you?

 

Do You Participate In Perfume Events?