Saturday Question: What are You Top 5 Iris Perfumes?

I wrote about iris perfumes so many times that I was sure we have previously covered this topic in one of the SQ posts. But I checked – and no, we didn’t. So, shall we?

Saturday Question on Undina's Looking Glass

Saturday Question #265:

What are You Top 5 Iris Perfumes?

Provided you do like this note in perfumes, what are your most favorite irises in your collection? (Any formats above a sample count.)

My Answer

I like iris in perfumes, and in the past, I did a couple of Month of Iris projects where I wore only iris-centric perfumes for the whole month (albeit a short one, February). It was hard to choose just 5, and I feel bad leaving some of my favorites off the list, but I can’t break my own rules, right? So, here we go, in alphabetical order by brand – not to worry about which one I like the most:

Chanel №19 Parfum
Frederic Malle Iris Poudre
Armani Prive La Femme Bleue
Le Labo Iris 39
Xerjoff Irisss

I love them all, but it seems like I can’t recommend any of them! La Femme Bleue was a limited edition, so it’s long time gone, No 19 parfum isn’t on the brand’s site (but it might still be available at one of their boutiques), Iris 39 and Iris Poudre are bleak copies of their original selves, and Irisss is still available but I don’t know how seriously it was reformulated. It will be interesting to find a new iris favorite among the currently available perfumes.

 

How about you?

What are You Top 5 Iris Perfumes?

Saturday Question: What Perfume in Your Collection Do You Still Like But Haven’t Worn in a While?

Last week, as I was checking my collection for Serge Lutens bell jar bottles, I realized that I haven’t worn De Profundis in about 18 months. I rectified it since then and confirmed that I still like that perfume. But since then I was thinking about all the perfumes that I own and like (at least, I think that I still like them), but never choose to wear.

 

Saturday Question on Undina's Looking Glass

 

Saturday Question #264:

What Perfume in Your Collection Do You Still Like But Haven’t Worn in a While?

Since you ignore that perfume (perfumes?), you might not know for sure that you still like it, but unless you know otherwise, you can assume that you still do. Why do you not reach for it?

My Answer

I decided not to check anything but bottles – full and travel – while looking for neglected favorites. It was slightly depressing: I have so many beautiful perfumes! Why don’t I wear them more often?!

I’m positive I still like Coco Chanel. But I haven’t worn it in more than 2 years. Ineke‘s Hothouse Flower seems still very attractive – and yet, it didn’t get any skin time in the last 3 years. And I’m not sure if I can still claim liking Champs Elysées by Guerlain because the last time I wore it was… 9 years ago.

Why?.. Too many perfume decants that are more easily accessible than bottles tucked away on a shelf. New favorites competing for my attention. And probably working from home for the last several years. I will try to rotate perfumes in my collection better. Because I’m sure that if I look at decants as well, I’ll find many more perfumes that never get into the rotation and sit on the shelf or in a drawer forgotten. But if you were to ask me, I would have told you that I still liked them.

 

How about you?

 

What Perfume in Your Collection Do You Still Like But Haven’t Worn in a While?

Escapade a Byzance by Olibere

Escapade a Byzance by Olibere

Hi there ULGers, A perfume crew that is rarely cited on the scentbloggosphere is Olibere. I’m not sure why. Here are my thoughts. They’re not a huge conglomerate with millions to spend on hype, they don’t use influencers, they’re a bit too good for the modern perfume bro but not classic or strange enough for the super perfumista crowd. I’ve got a couple of faves from them but today I thought we could talk about Escapade a Byzance.  Mainly because this year it turns 10 years old ! That’s a big deal in modern perfume years. Especially from a fairly under the radar house. I’ve had a 20ml travel of it for a while and it gets enough wear that it’s nearly half gone.

From Olibere: “A gourmand, warm, spicy and carnal fragrance, which will take you to the heart of a Moroccan souk. Perfume inspired by the film « The sheltering sky », shot in Morocco.”

I’m also loving that the brand’s blurb and my recent Morocco holiday are so well aligned.

Escapade a Byzance by Olibere 2015

Escapade a Byzance by Olibere

Olibere gives these featured accords:
Top: Black Pepper, Cinnamon, Saffron, Ginger, Cumin, Citrus
Heart: Cypress, Carnation, Incense
Base: Vanilla, Benzoin, Musk, Amber, Patchouli, Vetiver, Atlas Cedar

Opening is a warm vanilla rich amber that is given some extra spicy bells and whistles and interestingly the ginger gives it a very sharp green spiced effect, like biting into really expensive bitter dark chocolate ginger. It’s such an attention grabbing first few minutes.

Once we head to the heart Escapade a Byzance becomes a fragrance wholly blended to become itself, rather than outstanding notes. It’s a surprisingly dusty melange of spices, flowers, woods and a smoky overlay on a base of patchouli/amber. Today I’m wearing it in 27C/80f and it is blooming beautifully. I love that the bells and whistles last longer than just the opening and head with us into dry down.

Escapade a Byzance by Olibere

Dry down becomes more about the patchouli and a raunchy musk. The amber, spice and smoke are much more noticeable as the heft of Escapade a Byzance lowers. Maybe two hours in and the fireworks have calmed. I’m still fragrant 7 hours later but at a much lower projection. Now I need to move a bit to get a proper huff out of my top.

Unisex but leaning traditional and with excellent longevity. Does Escapade a Byzance remind me of being in a Moroccan souk? Yes and no. This is a fantasized glamorous rendering that amps up all the good bits and leaves out most of the cooking and less attractive parts. So a beautiful, technicolor dream of a Moroccan souk.

Do you know the Olibere Parfums brand?
Portia xx

 

Saturday Question: Do You Own Any Serge Lutens Perfume in a Bell Jar?

Last week, as we discussed perfumes we’d like to get back in our collections, Hamamelis mentioned Iris Silver Mist, and that sparkled a memory. 12-15 years ago, Serge Lutens perfumes were quite popular in Perfumeland in general, and bell jars were something that people talked about with bated breath. Those who were lucky to travel to Europe (or have a perfume mule) would proudly present their prized possession, and others would be in awe of the beauty. Around 2012, those bell jars finally made it to the US. The price was steep by those time’s standards – about $300 for a 75 ml bell jar, much more expensive than those were in Europe. But at least they were here.

These days, I don’t hear about Lutens perfumes too often, and I don’t know if any store in the US still carries that line after the demise of Barneys. But Serge Lutens website offers all perfumes, including bell jars (with just $9 delivery fee). And the prices today, 12+ years later, are $320 for a bell jar, which in today’s prices doesn’t feel as exorbitant (not that I’m prepared to pay it now). It has been a while since the brand released the last new bell jar, but still…

 

Saturday Question on Undina's Looking Glass

 

Saturday Question #263:

Do You Own Any Serge Lutens Perfume in a Bell Jar?

If yes, which one(s)? If now, was the price the only deterrence? Or did you not find any in the line to love? Or did you not like that format?

Do you think you’ll ever buy one [more]?

My Answer

I have two! The first one, De Profundis, was delivered from Europe by a friend after I overcame my initial preconception against the name. I bought and wore the second one, Boxeuses, as an invisible armor during a couple of rough years at the end of my long stretch at the company I worked at then, including the last day, as I was leaving for the next job. I still enjoy both, though I just can’t bring myself to using perfumes from those bottles: I keep decanting them into a much less glamorous containers keeping perfumes in bell jars pristine.

I am not sure if I would buy another perfume in that format if it is available in a spray bottle as well. The closest contender would probably be Bas de Soie, but it really pains me to pay a bell jar price for perfume I should have bought in a regular bottle when it was available.

How about you?

 

Do You Own Any Serge Lutens Perfume in a Bell Jar?

Saturday Question: What Perfume Would You Get Back If You Could?

Last week’s topic clearly wasn’t a favorite of my loyal readers: some didn’t participate at all, some still refused to part with any of their bottles even theoretically. Let’s try the other way around.

Saturday Question on Undina's Looking Glass

Saturday Question #262:

What Perfume Would You Get Back If You Could?

The condition is: you previously had that perfume in your collection – not a sample, but anything else from a decant (the smallest allowed size 5 ml) via minis and travel bottles to a full bottle can play. It doesn’t matter if perfumes are still in production, discontinued or reformulated. In this fantasy poll you can wish for any version of any perfume – as long as it fits the criteria.

My Answer

Since in the last 15 years I haven’t finished any bottles that I loved without replacing them, and I’ve bought most perfumes I tried and liked, my choice is between something mainstream that I wore before falling into the niche rabbit-hole and perfumes that were discontinued before I could get them.

My choice is Deneuve by Avon. I had only a decant of it shared by a kind friend, and every time I wear it, I feed sad that once my decant is gone, I won’t be able to replace it. Vintage bottles can still be found online, but I wouldn’t trust it to be in a wearable condition. It is a wonderful green chypre. You might like it or not, but when you smell it you know that what you smell is a real perfume and not some conceptual art or abstract scented product. If I could, I would have magically conjured a bottle of Deneuve.

 

How about you?

What Perfume Would You Get Back If You Could?

Grenadille d’Afrique by Aedes de Venustas

Grenadille d’Afrique by Aedes de Venustas

Hi there ULGers, Another find in the Decant Demolition 2025 oeuvre Grenadille d’Afrique by Alberto Morillas is one of the much lesser known Aedes de Venustas fragrances. It was released in 2016 and had a flurry of scentbloggosphere reviews and then radio silence. So it’s quite nice to refind it, even though about 70% has evaporated and it’s definitely had oxygenation. I’m seriously loving this extrait version though and you can still find it available at Aedes and other major niche retailers.

Grenadille d’Afrique by Aedes de Venustas

Grenadille d'Afrique Aedes de Venustas

Parfumo gives these featured accords:
Bergamot, Lavender, Violet, Juniper, Vetiver, Labdanum, African blackwood, Vanilla, Musk

Lavender, Juniper and dry grass vetiver all jump out immediately when I spritz Grenadille d’Afrique. This is a calm and classy fragrance with no screech or overwhelming fireworks at opening. A smooth, clear, cool and unusual opening. Like walking into a very expensive wooden hotel in the mountains that has a spa on site and forests outside. I can smell the beeswax and resins used to keep the wood pristine.

Grenadille d’Afrique or Grenadilla of Africa, means African Blackwood. A small tree from the driest parts of Africa, Senegal and Eritrea to South Africa that is threatened with extinction from overharvesting. The wood is used in musical instruments and furniture.

Once we reach the heart a spicy, charred wood emerges. It’s dark and meditative. Deep. Slowly it sweetens as the vanilla and labdanum come through. Not amber or candy sweet, just a lift. A smoothing off and rounding of the ingredients. Now Grenadille d’Afrique starts to smell very expensive.

Dry down is very nice too. An amorphous vanilla/woodsy fade to nothing

Did you try, or buy, Grenadille d’Afrique? Might you?
Portia xx

Saturday Question: What One Perfume Would You Vote Off Your Wardrobe Island?

Let’s do a mental exercise. Just for fun. Don’t worry: nobody will hold you to whatever choice you’ll make answering this week’s SQ.

Saturday Question on Undina's Looking Glass

Saturday Question #261:

What One Perfume Would You Vote Off Your Wardrobe Island?

It has to be a full bottle (presentation-wise, it doesn’t have to be actually full), so no decants, travel or mini bottles! It has to be a perfume that you used to wear at some point – and not just got someone else’s castaway (“I know you’re ‘into perfume’ – here, take this one, I do not use it”-style). It can’t be a perfume you’ve already consciously decided to “retire” but just couldn’t or didn’t want to part with. Just look at (or think about) your perfume wardrobe and name one bottle you’d let go if you had to make this choice.

If you have a “good” candidate, tell us how you got it in the first place and why you don’t want it any longer. If you don’t have any such perfumes, you still have to choose one (that’s the rules of this game!) and explain your “Sophie’s choice.”

My Answer

I constantly put myself in this situation: I come up with a question – and then I’m not sure how to answer it myself!

After spending some time going through my perfume collection in my head last night, I fell asleep. (Hmm… maybe I should start using this method as a sleep aid?) Today I went through the database and came up with a list of 7 “maybes.” One was a gift – so, not ready yet. One was kind of a swap… and it’s discontinued/rare, and the bottle is cute… Nah, it’ll die in my collection. In the end, I decided to go with the one that was the latest to my collection (out of the five considered) – Ilio by Diptyque. I bought it almost four years ago (here’s the story – I should have known better by that phase in my hobby!), and since then, I have chosen to wear it… exactly two times, both soon after the purchase. I am not sure I even thought about it since then. So, I suspect I wouldn’t even have noticed if it had decided to abscond and join the secret all-perfumista army of MIA fragrances.

Diptyque Ilio

How about you?

What One Perfume Would You Vote Off Your Wardrobe Island?

Saturday Question: Have You Tried Any L’ENTROPISTE Fragrances?

As much as I do not care for the most new brands these days, a brand created by one of the most prolific perfumers of 2010s, Bertrand Duchaufour, seems deserving at least a consideration.

Saturday Question on Undina's Looking Glass

Saturday Question #260:

Have You Tried Any L’ENTROPISTE Fragrances?

If yes, did you like any of them? If no, do you plan to?

A bonus question: Do you have any favorite perfumes created by Bertrand Duchaufour?

My Answer

I have not tried any of these perfumes yet. I would have been tempted to get a mini-discovery set from the brand’s site, but shipping to the US almost doubles the price of already quite spendy samples. So, I’ll probably wait until I can try them somewhere at a store or at least buy with the local delivery rates.

I remember a couple of years when Mr Duchaufour would release more than 20 perfumes per year. So, for some reason I thought I would have more perfumes created by him. But according to my database, I’ve ever tried just 46 perfumes where I know he was the nose. And out of those, I counted only 8 strong favorites – Naomi Goodsir Or du Serail, Neela Vermeire Creations Bombay Bling!, Ashoka, Pichola and Trayee, Parfums MDCI Chypre Palatin, The Vagabond Prince Enchanted Forest and L’Artisan Parfumeur Traversee du Bosphore. And even then, I have full bottles only for the first two, and with the rest – just travel bottles or decants. I wish I didn’t miss the opportunity to buy Traversee du Bosphore while it was still available, because that one and Bombay Bling! are the only two from the list I will miss once I’m done with what I have.

How about you?

Have You Tried Any L’ENTROPISTE Fragrances?

No. 09 L’Eau Blanche by IUNX

No. 09 L’Eau Blanche by IUNX

Hiya ULGers. Yes, here’s another decant found in my Decant Demolition 2025 adventure over on Perfume Posse. I’m one of the few who ever had a good experience with the staff at the Paris IUNX store. Obviously the grumpy old guy was a steaming turd but Anna Maria and I happened across a delightful girl one day that had come to Australia and knew her family through a job she had in Oz. It was utterly surreal. If you remember the stupid bottles their fragrances were housed in? Totally unacceptable, top heavy towers that fell over and smashed if you looked at them. Idiocy. So I only bought the travel size and only Splash Forte. Then they closed their doors for the second or third time and died. Once when we were in the shop with old grumpy guts salesman and the gorgeous Denyse Beaulieu two women of some Asian heritage came in and bought complete sets each of the big unsteady bottles. It was so cool and a LOT of $$$. We were gobsmacked. Anyway, on to L’Eau Blanche. My decant is from a Surrender To Chance sale a few years ago and has probably evaporated 60% so I’m writing about an oxidized extrait version.

No. 09 L’Eau Blanche by IUNX

These were the featured notes:
White Iris, Floral Notes, Teak Wood

Olivia Giacobetti is a famous nose. She created such fabulous firsts as Premier Figuier and Tea for Two at L’Artisan, Costes Hotel fragrances, Malle En Passant and Hermès Hiris and many more. Her IUNX range was very low key but beautifully subtle, I called them introverted perfumes and stand by it. Funny thing though, the hard core perfumistas went ape shit for them. While I was still pushing the envelope with intensity and weirdness the cool crew were eating this up. I think it’s how I came to them.

Soft iris but not a heavily woody or bready open, much more like scrunching up crabapple and stock petals, maybe even a couple of roses. It’s powdery like running a petal across your cheek but also a little vegetal and sappy sharp, like broken hyacinth stems. There is a feeling of the modern designer peony fragrance but done for a much more discerning client. Imagine a stark rendering of CHANEL No 18.

No. 09 L’Eau Blanche by IUNX

This oxidized extrait version of L’Eau Blanche is wearing so close to my skin but when I move it scents the air magnificently for the briefest moment and then fades to memory until I move again. Heavenly. You’ll note I’ve been wearing it almost to the dregs and LOVING IT!

Did you ever get your sniff on L’Eau Blanche?
Portia xx

 

Saturday Question: Do You Like Pizza? How About Pizza Perfume?

I started thinking about this topic when I read that Domino’s Pizza, an American multinational pizza restaurant chain, for the recent Valentine’s Day had launched a limited edition perfume, Eau de Passion, inspired by their most popular pizza, Pepperoni Passion. It wasn’t openly sold, but you could enter to win a bottle of it somehow (I’m not sure about details). They liked that idea so much that recently they continued the theme in their April’s Fool FB post. It wasn’t a completely novel idea: Demeter had their version of Pizza perfume in 2012, and it looks like it’s still in production. And it looks like at least a couple more of the less known brands cooked up their own pizza-inspired perfume recipes. So, let’s talk about pizzas and perfumes. And taking into consideration how geographically diverse my loyal audience is, I thought this topic might be deeper than it seems on the surface.

 

Saturday Question on Undina's Looking Glass

 

Saturday Question #259:

Do You Like Pizza? How About Pizza Perfume?

Do you eat pizza? If yes, do you have a favorite? Have you ever smelled any of the pizza-inspired perfumes? What do you think about the idea?

My Answer

Story time! Since I haven’t done real perfume stories for a while, I’ll use this SQ post to tell one of my stories.

I grew up without pizza in my life. We just didn’t have that in my native country. I am not sure I even knew about that food. Many other foods, even more exotic, I knew at least from books or movies, but somehow pizza wasn’t a part of that learning avenue. And then around the time I started university, the first pizza restaurant opened in my city. Chicago-style deep-dish pizza was the closest our first pizza resembled. It smelled divine, it tasted great, and it seemed totally worth the 40-50-minutes waiting in line to get seated and order it.

Even before coming here, from the friend who came here first with his parents and worked for a while delivering pizza, we learned that local pizza was completely different from what we knew as “pizza” back at home, which was confirmed when we moved to the US. The fact that pizzas would be usually ordered from (as I still think horrible) chains didn’t help. I refused to eat it.

After many years in the US, I kind of accepted the tradition of ordering pizzas to the office or improvised parties and resolved to eating just toppings leaving most of the crust on my plate. My co-workers and friends laughed looking at me scraping the toppings from the next slice, but at least I participated.

And only decades later, I discovered that pizzas made by good Italian restaurants were quite tasty. So, from time to time, we order a pizza at one of my favorite restaurants (to dine in or to take home). The one I like the most is a pizza with prosciutto, burrata cheese, eggplant and arugula. I am still not a fan of any “traditional” pizzas. Pepperoni is not something I would eat in any form, and as a pizza topping it seems even less attractive.

As to pizza perfume… Definitely no. I am not even curious to smell it. There are not that many food-related scents that I would find attractive as a personal scent. And nothing about pizza, even the best one, is associated for me with perfume I would wear.

Eau De Passion Domino Pizza Perfume

How about you?

 

Do You Like Pizza? How About Pizza Perfume?