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Saturday Question: Which of Your Current Favorites Was Released In Your Back-to-School Years?

In the US, some schools are “back in session” already, which still feels slightly surprising to me, whose school years always started on September 1st (unless it fell on Sunday). But hearing all the back-to-school ads and conversations inspired this SQ.

 

Saturday Question on Undina's Looking Glass

 

Saturday Question #177:

Which of Your Current Favorites Was Released In Your Back-to-School Years?

Hopefully, a decade (plus-minus a year) is enough disguise for those who don’t feel comfortable disclosing their exact age.

Do you currently have a favorite perfume in your collection that was released between when you started the second grade and when you went back to school for the last time? It doesn’t have to be a perfume that back then you liked (or even knew about its existence). But the bonus question is: when did you get it first?

Hint: You can use Fragrantica search to set the From/To year criterion if you can’t easily think of any specific perfume.

My Answer

Surprisingly, my collection has more than one favorite perfume from that era But let’s go with one – Chanel Coco. I didn’t know it when I was going to school. I think I knew of Chanel No 5 (though I haven’t tried it before much later – and I still don’t like it on my skin), but no other names of perfumes from that brand were even mentioned when I was growing up.

After I moved to the US, I tried many of Chanel’s mainstream perfumes (one of my relatives had them all), but I didn’t like any of them… until about 14 years ago when, thanks to a generous SA at Nordstrom, I got samples of several Chanel perfumes and fell in love with Coco and No 19. In 2010, Coco was my first full bottle purchase from Chanel ever. And this is one of those perfumes that still wows me every time I wear it.

Rusty and Chanel Coco

How about you?

 

Which of Your Current Favorites Was Released In Your Back-to-School Years?

Madagascan Jasmine by Grandiflora
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Madagascan Jasmine by Grandiflora

Hi there ULGers, Grandiflora is an Aussie brand coming from a very cool, world renowned flower shop in Sydney. Owned and operated by the gorgeous and so friendly Saskia Havekes. She is a florist to the smart set and large corporations, author and creative director/owner of a fragrance house. Some people are like being around a light filled vessel, Saskia is definitely one of them from the little I know and lot I’ve heard. Actually, she’s one of the very few icons that I’m yet to hear a bad word about. In my journey through samples and decants this year I came across an 8ml Madagascan Jasmine from Surrender To Chance. I remember using the first couple of ml and instantly buying a bottle, and later a backup when the bottles were being changed. So, I thought I’d share my love for it with you all today.

Madagascan Jasmine by Grandiflora 2015

Madagascan Jasmine by Grandiflora

Grandiflora gives these featured accords:
Top: Mango, Green Tropical Fruits
Heart: Jasmine (Madagascan), White Flowers, Green Foliage
Base: Musk, Smoky Accord, Roasted Cacao

Jasmine, jasmine, jasmine. Not the heady, breathy, creamy ylang and sweet version of so much perfumery but jasmine like the smell of putting your head in the flowering vine. Yes, it does have that fruity hit running through it and the greenery that jasmine so often holds. They make it seem alive and just bloomed in the evening but now it’s a cool spring morning. Chilled and super fragrant.

The heart remains all white flowers and a touch of greenery. That huge opening softens considerable after about 10 minutes and becomes an insistent, pretty white floral. Still fragrant but less over the top. The heart is my favourite part of Madagascan Jasmine. I’ve told this story before but when I was growing up there was a large jasmine growing over our side fence. In spring the scent would travel and I could smell it from the top of our driveway, getting stronger and stronger as I neared the house. The heart is like that scent as I’m walking down the drive. If I went to the vine the sound of bees buzzing would accompany the scent. Madagascan Jasmine is like reliving those days.

Madagascan Jasmine by Grandiflora July 23

Though I fully support everyone wearing whatever they love, this feels like a feminine leaning fragrance. If you are a guy who either loves jasmine or is confident enough to go against modern traditional type then Madagascan Jasmine will smell so fabulous on you. PLUS you will fragrantly stand head and shoulders above most others. Longevity is good and after the first half hour or so projection is low to moderate.

Do you know Madagascan Jasmine or the Grandiflora fragrance house?
Portia x

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Saturday Question: Do You Have Any Perfumes on Your “To Try” List?

I’m calling all your lemmings!

Saturday Question on Undina's Looking Glass

Saturday Question #176:

Do You Have Any Perfumes on Your “To Try” List?

Let’s be realistic: it’s not a hypothetical question that calls for something like “original Daim Blond” or “pre-reformulation EL Private Collection.” But are there any currently available perfumes that you haven’t tried yet but would like to?

My Answer

In the last couple of years, I rarely feel an urge to try anything specific. I do still enjoy trying new (for me) things, but I rarely care for anything specific – and even less so if I’d need to pay for a sample.

So, I don’t have a formal “to try” list now. But if I think about it, I can come up with several perfumes I am curious about: several recent releases from Amouage – Guidance, Lineage, Purpose and Search (though, I’m not sure I like the names), Armani Magenta Tanzanite (though I wasn’t a huge fan of the previous “stones” in the collection) and Ormonde Jayne Sakura and Fearless (and while I am at it, any other new perfumes OJ released in the last 2 years).

 

How about you?

Do You Have Any Perfumes on Your “To Try” List?

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Saturday Question: What Was the Last Perfume in Your Collection that Wowed You?

Do you know how hard it is to put some questions in a short form? Something simple like “What is Your Favorite Beach Scent?” or “Name Your Top 10 Birch Tar Perfumes” is easy. But every time I try to ask something more complex (in form), I risk either running a 3-line question or to confusing you all. I just hope you read my explanations and do not rush to answer based on the first impression.

Saturday Question on Undina's Looking Glass

Saturday Question #175:

What Was the Last Perfume in Your Collection that Wowed You?

So, I’m not asking about the last perfume that you loved and bought. We have great collections, and I assume we like most of the fragrances we own. I’m asking about the case when you sprayed on one of your favorites from your fragrant wardrobe and thought to yourself: “Wow! It is so beautiful!” (or something along the line).

What was that perfume? When?

My Answer

This year isn’t the easiest for my family, and I noticed that my perception of perfume is slightly skewed: more often than I’d like it to, I put on a scent I own and think: “It is nice, but I remember liking/loving it much more.” It doesn’t go into the territory where I dislike those perfumes, but I can’t help feeling slightly disappointed by not being enamored of it as I used to be. So, these days, when I do admire perfume I’m wearing, I feel especially grateful to it.

The last time it happened was a couple of days ago when I reached out to Atelier Cologne Clémentine California. I always liked and enjoyed wearing it, but when I bought it six years ago, I thought it was in the same category as the other two citrus perfumes that I liked from the brand (When Life Gives You Clementines, Enjoy Them). Since then, it grew on me, becoming my favorite Atelier Cologne perfume. But that last time, as I put it on, it was that “Wow” reaction that I hope for every time I spray on my SOTD but don’t get often.

Rusty and Atelier Cologne Clementine California

How about you?

 

What Was the Last Perfume in Your Collection that Wowed You?

Gilded by Boujee Bougies NEW! NEW! NEW!
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Gilded by Boujee Bougies NEW! NEW! NEW!

Hi Crew, If you are a regular reader then you’ll know I hit London in April to celebrate a couple of important birthdays with friends. It was a whirlwind trip of 11 days from my doorstep to arriving home. That meant 7 full days on the ground. One of those days I jumped a train or two from Green Square to Leighton Buzzard and met my buddies of the Olfiction crew, Nick and Pia. They are the masterminds behind the Boujee Bougies candle range that has now also become a perfume range. Seeing their headquarters and then having dinner at their home was so exciting and yet curiously mundane. It was as if we did it all the time and had lived next door for years and this was a regular catch up. They and their crew were so easy to be with, plus I got to smell the new perfume range. Gilded is the one that the scentbloggosphere has been going ape shit over so I thought I’d give it some wears and write you all a post.

I’m sniffing from a large decant because at the time they weren’t ready for sale and I couldn’t buy the whole range. This was a gift. Fortunately Jin and I are back in the UK in November so hopefully I can remedy the situation and properly shop.

Gilded by Boujee Bougies 2023

Boujee Bougies give these featured accords:
Top: Lemon, Saffron, Gold accord
Heart: Frankincense oil, Frankincense resin, Carnation, Cedar Leaf, Beeswax absolute
Base: Myrrh, Cedarwood, Labdanum, Leather, Civet, Musk

The opening citrus/metallic is something I’ve never smelled before. It doesn’t stay more than a couple of minutes but it is eye popping. The heart takes over and incense reigns supreme. It says cedar leaf in the notes but for me the scent is very bay leaf, I wonder if it’s the carnation clove-iness giving me cooking throwbacks. I can understand why everyone is going mad for Gilded. It smells like early niche, those gorgeous, mind-blowing, quilted layers of a richly furnished middle eastern dream.

Further into the heart my Roman Catholic upbringing is being revisited in the smoky prayers of Benediction, which always seemed like such a pagan rite to me. A man, led by acolytes, wearing a sumptuous sequinned gown and hat with a smoke stack pouring out scented fumes that forgive all our sins.

As we head towards dry down Gilded becomes a little darker and more feral. Animalic but not a tiger pit. More like a bear cave used for hibernation but now it’s summer and you are just getting some scented remnants of the winter/spring inhabitants. The incenses stay till the very last gasp, overlaying all other parts with a soft smoky patina.

Gilded Boujee Bougies

Gilded it gorgeous. Totally unisex. Fragrant but not overbearing. After the initial hour of spectacular it calms to a quiet, introverted beauty that would be wearable even to dinner, films or work. Obviously, the more you spritz the bigger it will be. I’m hard pressed to think of a perfumista who would not love this.

Have I piqued your interest?
Portia xx

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Saturday Question: How Many Chances do You Give Perfumes You didn’t Like?

I’m running late this week, so it’s more like a Sunday Question, but I decided to keep the title.

Saturday Question on Undina's Looking Glass

Saturday Question #174:

How Many Chances do You Give Perfumes You didn’t Like?

If you have a sample in your possession, tried it and didn’t like – what do you do? Do you try it again? How many times? What do you do with those samples after that?

My Answer

I’m a sample hoarder. Which wouldn’t have been that bad on its own since most of my samples are tiny (so, I don’t waste too much of perfumes), but unfortunately, I keep testing them again and again. There are two scenarios, and I don’t even know which one is more frustrating.

In some cases, I can’t believe that I didn’t like that perfume (on the previous dozen of occasions!) and think that maybe this time… But even more often I just don’t remember what I thought about that sample and instead of checking my database (as any sane person would do), I decide to try it again. Only recently, I started setting aside those samples that I decided I shouldn’t test any longer – if I don’t forget, of course. I need to learn to be more ruthless and save my testing time for those perfumes that have any potential either for wearing or at least for becoming a part of a story.

 

How about you?

How Many Chances do You Give Perfumes You didn’t Like?

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ScentBird, Royalty Scents, ScentBox, LUXSB, Purpl Lux and Other Perfume Subscriptions

Nearly 8 years ago, I delved into the world of perfume subscription services and compared Olfactif, Scentbird and Scenttrunk.

Back then, I thought that Scentbird was the most useful of the three, even though they dismissed me as a blogger when I requested a free trial (details in the original post). Interestingly, it proved to be a single most popular post on my blog up-to-date – not that it matters since I do not monetize my hobby.

At the time of that post, I thought that it wasn’t a good strategy to subscribe to a sample program with unknown perfumes sent to you every month. I realize that mine might be a minority opinion since both Olfactif and Scenttrunk are still in business (though, the latter had changed the business model slightly). And I came across at least a couple more businesses with a similar model. But since still don’t like that idea, in this follow-up post I decided to focus only on services that allow users to choose the perfumes they will get.

Disclaimer

I want to start by stating that not only is this post not sponsored or compensated in any form, but it doesn’t even contain any affiliated or referral-type links. Also, all of these are US-based, though some ship to other countries.

* * *

Scentbird

I use Scentbird on and off: I reactivate my subscription when they add something that I want to buy and then put it on hold again. I’ve never had any issues with them. And even though I don’t find there too many perfumes that I want, in general, I think I like Scentbird as a business the most: they keep coming up with more interesting ideas every year.

Scentbird

Subscriptions

  • Size: 8 ml
  • Details: A travel case is provided with the first purchase; after that, only a spray vial is sent.
  • Base plan: $16.95/month for 1 regular decant (50% discount offered).
  • Premium product surcharge: $5, $10 or $15.
    Upgrades:

    • 2 regular decants per month for $27 ($13.50 per product)
    • 3 regular decants per month for $36.99 ($12.33 per product)Several prepaid plans and bulk purchases offered, but those do not make sense compared to these 2 or 3 items per month discounts.
      For example, the best, 12-month plan is $153 ($12.75 per product), which is $5 more expensive than to do the 3 products per month plan for 4 months.
      Bulk purchases that offer 5%/10%/15% off for buying 3/6/9 products at the same time are even stranger. For example, if you were to subscribe to the 3 products per month plan and cancel after the first month, you’d save $11.32 compared to the bulk purchase of the same 3 decants. It is possible that the bulk purchase of 6 or 9 would include travel cases for each of the decants or maybe they are trying different price models at the same time to see what attracts customers better.
  • Shipping: free in the US; US$4.99 to Canada

Brands

(here and for other services, it’s not the complete list but those brands that attracted my attention)

Acqua di Parma, Amouage, Arquiste, Carner Barcelona, DS Durga, ELdO, EX NIHILO, Goutal, Initio, Jo Loves, JHAG, Le Jardin Retrouvé, Memo, Mind Games, Ormonde Jayne, Parfums de Marly, Scents of Wood.

What Else

Scentbird also offers 1.5 ml samples of some of their perfumes for $4.95-$5.95; candle subscription for $25/month; additional travel cases for $10/month; full bottles, fragrant gifts and car fresheners.

Scentbird

Scenbird has recently changed their travel holders and decant vials. I’m not sure if I like them more, and since the holders are magnetic, I’m not sure how safe they will be when traveling. I guess, I’ll check it the next time I fly.

Royalty Scents

I learned about Royalty Scents service from Old Herbaceous. Out of all the services, for me, it is the most useful. My subscription is on hold for now, but I know that eventually, I’ll be buying more from them. Noteworthy: they have a huge selection of Tom Ford (38) and Dior La Collection Privée (18) perfumes.

Royalty Scents

Subscriptions

  • Size: 8 ml
  • Details: A travel twist-to-open case is provided with each decant.
  • Base plan: $19.95/month for 1 decant or $36.95/month for 2. No introductory price, but also no surcharges for “premium” perfumes, all decants cost the same.
  • Shipping: free in the US; $9.95–$12.95 international shipping (dependent on the destination)

Brands

Acqua di Parma, Amouage, By Kilian, Creed, Dior, Floris, Goldfield & Banks, Liquides Imaginaires, Mancera, Memo, Montale, Tom Ford.

Scentbox

I’ve never bought anything from Scentbox, but judging by the mainstream coverage online, it’s a legitimate business.

ScentBox

Subscriptions

  • Size: 8 ml
  • Details: A travel case is provided with each decant.
  • Basic Plans: 1 decant per month $16.95/month for the Standard Plan (a first-month discount might be offered), $21.95 for the Premium Plan (choice of 250+ perfumes) or $30.95 for the Platinum Plan (choice of 150+ perfumes).
    Upgrades: 2 or 3 decants per month with a discount (e.g., Premium Plan for 2 items is $56.95).
  • Shipping: free in the US; also delivers to Australia,  Canada, Ireland, New Zealand, Singapore, United Kingdom.

Brands

Acqua di Parma, Amouage, BDK Parfums, Byredo, Creed, Frapin, Initio, Mancera, Montale, Ormonde Jayne, Parfums de Marly, Profumun Roma, Xerjoff.

What Else

A unique feature of this service is that they allow exchanges of 1 perfume per month but not more than 5 per year. I don’t know if that includes the shipping as well, but even if not, it might be the best chance to try something you are not sure you’ll want to wear and if not, exchange it for something you know and like.

Also, they offer over 200 full-size fragrance products such as bath & body, candles, skincare, CBD and more.

LUXSB

I’ve never used LUXSB (Luxury Scent Box) as well, but they are also listed in several perfume boxes coverage, so I assume they are legit.

LuxSB

Subscriptions

  • Size: 9 ml
  • Details: A travel case once every 3 months or with a Premium fragrance purchase.
  • Basic Plan: 1 decant per month for $15.95. The first month they offer 35% off.
    Upgrades:
    • Premium fragrances are an additional $5.00 upgrade fee.
    • Ultra-premium fragrances are an additional $10.00 upgrade fee.
    • Gold Premium fragrances are an additional $15.00 upgrade fee
    • Platinum Premium fragrances are an additional $30.00 upgrade fee
    • Prepay and get a 10% bonus ($10 for $100, $20 for $200).
  • Shipping: free in the US.

Brands

Amouage, Atelier Cologne, Carner Barcelona, EldO, Floraiku, Gallivant, JHAG, Keiko Mecheri, Mancera, Montale, Memo, Olfactive Studio, Ormonde Jayne, Parfums de Marly, Ramon Monega, Shay & Blue, Thameen.

Purpl Lux

Purpl Lux is a subscription club by Fragrancenet. I have never tried their decant service, but over the years I bought multiple bottles.

PurplLux

Subscriptions

  • Size: 8 ml
  • Basic Plans: $14.95 for 1 decant monthly (the first month is $6.95, two-month subscription required) or $9.95 for 1 decant with a yearly subscription. This seems to be the only subscription that also charges tax (US).
    Upgrades: $5-$10-$15-$20 surcharge for premium perfumes.
  • Shipping: free in the US.

Brands

Acqua di Parma, Amouage, Annick Goutal, Creed, Escentric Molecules, Guerlain, Hermes, Jo Malone, JHAG, Memo, Serge Lutens, Tom Ford, Van Cleef & Arpels.

Other Services

I came across a couple more services, but I don’t think they can offer anything better than those mentioned above.

Perfume.com offers mainstream designer fragrances for $14.95 per month. It’s not clear which brands are included until you start the subscription.

Scentmagic does not accept new customers.

The Fragrance Club has an $8.99 intro subscription with $14.99 afterward for 10 ml decants (a travel case the first month; refills afterward); $12.49 per decant with a prepaid yearly subscription. But they have a tiny selection of designer fragrances.

Conclusion

First, I think that all the services that I chose for this post are good for getting perfumes you previously tried, liked and want to wear but either do not love enough to go for a full bottle or don’t want to spend money for a full bottle in addition to the already two-lifetime-worth perfume wardrobe you own.

Next, if you decide to use any of these sites, be organized: select perfumes that you want to get from that service, then figure out the most economical way to get them (intro offer, 2-3 decants at a time, prepaid/multi-months plans, etc.), and once you receive everything you want, either cancel your account or at least put it on hold/skip months.

Finally, keep in mind that some perfumes can be found on more than one site. Don’t be misled by the base price: different sites might charge an additional “upcharge” of $5-$30 per decant for “premium” perfumes. Each service defines rules for what is premium and how much to add based on their own rules, not necessarily based on the full bottle price. So always check. Also, remember that those perfumes might not be available permanently, so even if you preset your queue on the site, before each delivery make sure you won’t get something you don’t need.

 

Are there any other similar services that you used and can recommend? Maybe something in the UK, Europe or Australia?

 

Images: the first three – my own; the rest – from the companies’ websites.

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Saturday Question: An Ambassador of What Brand Would You Like to be?

How is your summer going? Is it hot now where you live? Do you spend more time outside these days? I hope you’re still around to participate in this week’s Saturday Question.

Saturday Question on Undina's Looking Glass

Saturday Question #173:

An Ambassador of What Brand Would You Like to be?

I know that none of us is influential enough to be even considered for this role for any of the brands, either upcoming or well established. But just as a mental exercise, if you were given such an opportunity, an ambassador of what brand would you like to be?

My Answer

Our weather is almost perfect: it’s not going to be above 27C/80F for the next 10 days, and as soon as our hot summer sun goes down, the temperature drops, and 15 degrees difference between the hottest and the coolest temperature of the day is great to cool off everything around.

When I came up with this question, I thought that it would be hard for me to choose a brand. But as I went through the list of all of my favorite perfumes, I realized that there were just 3 brands that I love enough to consider for such an important commitment. I do not want to “take” it from you, so I won’t name the contenders (I’ll chime in if anyone mentions my two “runner ups”). The brand I chose is Amouage. Even though my biggest loves from the brand are from their earlier years, I still find their perfumes interesting and try to test everything they release (when I’m not on “no-buy,” of course). And with each next perfume they create, I hope for the next Ubar, Gold, Dia or Lyric. And not only I like many of their perfumes and aesthetics, last year on Instagram they did a series where they presented people who worked on their perfumes. Not a creative director or a perfumer, but regular workers – the woman who glues golden seals on the flacons, the man who oversees the maturation and maceration of concentrates and others. I remember thinking that it was a clever campaign.

Amouage Collection

How about you?

An Ambassador of What Brand Would You Like to be?

Soleil Brûlant by Tom Ford
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Soleil Brûlant by Tom Ford

Hey there ULGers, Recently my mate Ainslie was given a bottle of Soleil Brûlant by Tom Ford in a perfume swap and did not find it to her taste. She passed it along to me and I’m so excited to give you a heads up on this very lovely fragrance. Now I’m the first to poo poo the ridiculous price point of Tom Ford scents, especially considering they are really just dressed up Estée Lauder. Even originally they were pricey but in the current rush to cash grab the whole expenditure has reached insane levels. In Australia this 50ml retails for nearly AU$500, that’s $10/ml. Ridiculous.

You’ll know perfumer Daniela Andrier’s work. She is responsible for the 2003 remix of YSL Rive Gauche, the Prada number extraits, Candy and Amber PH, Memo Moroccan Leather and ELdO I Am Trash among many others.

Soleil Brûlant by Tom Ford 2021

Soleil Brûlant Tom Ford

Parfumo gives these featured accords:
Top: Pink pepper, Bergamot, Mandarin orange
Heart: Black honey, Orange blossom absolute
Base: Resins, Frankincense, Vetiver, Amber, Leather, Woods

Fizzy citrus with a much more black pepper than pink feeling which quickly morphs into a honeyed floral. The floralness is transitory and leathery amber takes prominence quite early on. This and honey remain the key players till dry down with occasional wafts of woody greenery and white floral that keep it all interesting. There are some slight hints of that suntan lotion accord too, I’m surprised ylang and sandalwood aren’t mentioned in the notes list.

Soleil Brûlant means burning sun, so I thought this review particularly apt for you all in the Northern Hemisphere right now. For me though this fragrance has nothing to do with a burning sun and is much more like being curled up on a cold winter night watching TV with a clean pet and blanket. Maybe because that’s what I’ve been doing quite a lot of in the Sydney winter.

Interesting side note, black honey is only naturally produced by bees in northern Turkey. Other black honey is a manufactured product from sugar cane. There is also dark honey which is regular golden honey treated with heat, it changes the colour and only very slightly the taste. We have a friend who gives us dark honey for cooking and tea from his hives, it’s bloody gorgeous.

Soleil Brûlant Tom Ford

So a warm honeyed amber that’s totally unisex. Projection is good for the first hour or so and quietens considerably. Longevity is good, a soft whisper by the end of a work day.

I’m really glad to have this in my wardrobe. Did I need it? Amber is one of my largest note in FB but Soleil Brûlant scratches a different itch to the regular amber. So yes, it does fill a hole. Imagine it being an Estée Lauder Bronze Goddess for winter and you get my drift. If this cost 1/2 the price I’d probably have bought myself a bottle at retail.

Sound interesting?
Portia x

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Saturday Question: Have You Had a Change of Heart About Any of Your Perfumes Recently?

After a series of “favorite perfume” Saturday Questions, let’s do the opposite.

Saturday Question on Undina's Looking Glass

Saturday Question #172:

Have You Had a Change of Heart About Any of Your Perfumes Recently?

We’re not talking about perfumes that never worked for you or those that you never got because you weren’t sure if you cared for them. The question is about perfume that you used to like and still have in your collection but no longer feel attracted to.

A bonus question: Do you plan to keep it?

My Answer

For many years, I don’t remember significantly changing my mind about my perfumes: once I got any into my collection, I would feel attached to it and happily wear it occasionally. But in the last year, something has changed, and I periodically surprise myself with the realization that I don’t enjoy any longer perfume I just put on.

The most recent disappointment was Penhaligon’s Ostara. It has never been my top favorite, but I liked wearing it in Spring. I sprayed it a couple of weeks ago and almost immediately regretted it. It wasn’t awful, but for some reason that day, it felt “off,” and I could barely wait for it to dissipate.

I don’t plan to do anything about Ostara for now: I’ll try it again next year to see if I would like it again. Since it had been discontinued and can’t be repurchased, I don’t want to regret later parting with it on a whim.

 

How about you?

Have You Had a Change of Heart About Any of Your Perfumes Recently?