Saturday Question: What Is Your Favorite Local Brick-and-Mortar Perfume Store?

Now that I know how many of my readers perceive the acronym B&M, I’m being cautious and spelling it out.

Saturday Question on Undina's Looking Glass

Saturday Question #179:

What Is Your Favorite Local Brick-and-Mortar Perfume Store?

The question is not about Harrods or Luckyscent (unless you live nearby and visit them at least a couple of times a year). I’m curious about your local “go-to” place. Where do you go to smell something new without paying for it? It doesn’t have to be a niche store, but just any place where you know you’ll try something you haven’t tried before.

Do you ever buy perfumes there?

My Answer

For many years, Barney’s San Francisco was that place for me. They carried many niche brands that weren’t available elsewhere – Serge Lutens, L’Artisan, Le Labo, Frederic Malle and many others. After its closing, Neiman Marcus in San Francisco became my favorite: they didn’t have that many niche brands, but they carried many “boutique” lines for Guerlain and Dior, as well as some other popular brands – Memo, Acqua di Parma, Perris Monte Carlo and others. These are not my favorite brands, so even though the Neiman Marcus store that is closer to me doesn’t carry the same variety of brands, a shorter trip combined with free parking made it a more appealing option.

But this week, I discovered a new favorite: ZGO Perfumery in San Francisco. I knew about that store for years and even bought some samples and Mariage Freres teas from them, but I’ve never visited it before. But earlier this week, I decided to investigate that store when I took a day off to run some errands in San Francisco that couldn’t be done over a weekend.

ZGO Perfumery

I loved it! A welcoming atmosphere, friendly salespeople and a wide selection of niche brands. It was a slow day, and I spent there more than an hour figuring out first what I wanted to smell on paper and then which samples I wanted to buy. I chatted with two sales assistants (not at the same time) – they were, as I said, friendly, knowledgeable and absolutely not pushy. I went through dozens (if not hundreds) of perfume bottles, carefully deciding which ones would get a nozzle sniff, which would make their way onto a paper strip, and which remain in place getting just a glance.

While from their website you can buy any number of samples, in the store they usually allow 3 samples ($5 for a 1 ml spray sample). But an above-mentioned slow day and all that, so I left with 5 samples of perfumes that I liked enough to want to try on my skin (and pay for it). I will do a separate post about them once I spend time wearing each one, but in general, I think it was a successful trip (and the parking, if you can find it, is free, which feels like a special treat when you visit San Francisco). The one that I decided to wear from the tester bottle instead of asking to buy one more sample was Atelier Materi Iris Ebene. It was a big mistake! I liked it a lot. So now I’ll have to get a sample of it anyway!

I rarely buy perfumes from brick-and-mortar stores because I rarely feel the urge to buy something on the spot. And when I know what I want, I usually try to find, if not a deal, then at least a GWP or some other incentive to spend money. But if I am ever on the market for a brand that doesn’t do sales, I will definitely go to ZGO Perfumery.

 

How about you?

What Is Your Favorite Local Brick-and-Mortar Perfume Store?

Saturday Question: What Do You Think About Fragrant Functional Products?

When I recently got an email from Luckyscent that highlighted the new BDK‘s creation – a laundry detergent – I thought about doing a post about it. But as I started putting my thoughts “on paper,” I realized I didn’t have enough to stretch it to a full post, so I decided to discuss it with you as a Saturday Question.

Saturday Question on Undina's Looking Glass

Saturday Question #178:

What Do You Think About Fragrant Functional Products?

It’s not about unscented/scent-free products versus scented ones. I’m asking rather about products that smell like perfumes – either existing ones or abstract scents, as with this laundry detergent.

Do you like the idea? Have you used any? Would you like to try any?

A bonus question: What laundry detergent do you use?

My Answer

Almost a decade ago (time flies!) I published a post Know-how [not to]: Freshen up a linen closet, in which I told a story of how using a perfume-soaked envelope (an unfortunate mailing incident) as a linen closet freshener had almost put me off my favorite Le Labo Rose 31. So, from that time, I never even considered using any of my favorite scents for anything other than their direct purpose.

In the case of this laundry detergent by BDK, Eau de Lessive (Laundry Water?), they didn’t cannibalize any of their scents but instead created a unique composition for this product. Top: Lavender, Bergamot from Italy, Lemon from Italy, Yellow mandarin from Japan, Red Thyme, Cardamom from India, Pepper mint, Nutmeg, CO2 of pink berries; heart: Small grain of Paraguay, Blue Ginger, Cassis, White flowers; base: Ambroxan, Vetiver from Haiti, Benzoin of Siam and White Musks.

Not every perfume has that extensive list of notes; this product might smell great. But the idea of having all my laundry to smell of any specific aroma just doesn’t seem appealing. Additionally, a laundry detergent costing about half of what one might splurge on a high-end shampoo seems too extravagant. I could have considered a smaller bottle intended for hand wash (though, I’m not sure I have enough lingerie that I would be regularly washing manually), but a €35/$36 liter of a detergent intended for a washing machine… It makes me think of that DirecTV commercial “Opulence, I has it.”

But what do I know? It is sold out within less than a week and on backorder at Luckyscent. On the positive side, this is one of the perfume-related products that a perfumista will be able to use up.

I prefer laundry detergents without any scent. For a long time, I used Seventh Generation Free & Clear. It didn’t smell of anything. But I had to stop using it because of the smell. The smell of my clothes 3-4 months after washing that was (e.g., if I were to launder something and put it away because of a season change). It seems that detergent stayed on the clothes and started disintegrated after a while. Now I wash my clothes with Tide Free & Gentle. It keeps my laundry scent-free and allows me to perfume my things with whatever scent I choose, whenever I choose.

BDK Eau De Lessive

What Do You Think About Fragrant Functional Products?

Saturday Question: Which of Your Current Favorites Was Released In Your Back-to-School Years?

In the US, some schools are “back in session” already, which still feels slightly surprising to me, whose school years always started on September 1st (unless it fell on Sunday). But hearing all the back-to-school ads and conversations inspired this SQ.

 

Saturday Question on Undina's Looking Glass

 

Saturday Question #177:

Which of Your Current Favorites Was Released In Your Back-to-School Years?

Hopefully, a decade (plus-minus a year) is enough disguise for those who don’t feel comfortable disclosing their exact age.

Do you currently have a favorite perfume in your collection that was released between when you started the second grade and when you went back to school for the last time? It doesn’t have to be a perfume that back then you liked (or even knew about its existence). But the bonus question is: when did you get it first?

Hint: You can use Fragrantica search to set the From/To year criterion if you can’t easily think of any specific perfume.

My Answer

Surprisingly, my collection has more than one favorite perfume from that era But let’s go with one – Chanel Coco. I didn’t know it when I was going to school. I think I knew of Chanel No 5 (though I haven’t tried it before much later – and I still don’t like it on my skin), but no other names of perfumes from that brand were even mentioned when I was growing up.

After I moved to the US, I tried many of Chanel’s mainstream perfumes (one of my relatives had them all), but I didn’t like any of them… until about 14 years ago when, thanks to a generous SA at Nordstrom, I got samples of several Chanel perfumes and fell in love with Coco and No 19. In 2010, Coco was my first full bottle purchase from Chanel ever. And this is one of those perfumes that still wows me every time I wear it.

Rusty and Chanel Coco

How about you?

 

Which of Your Current Favorites Was Released In Your Back-to-School Years?

Saturday Question: Do You Have Any Perfumes on Your “To Try” List?

I’m calling all your lemmings!

Saturday Question on Undina's Looking Glass

Saturday Question #176:

Do You Have Any Perfumes on Your “To Try” List?

Let’s be realistic: it’s not a hypothetical question that calls for something like “original Daim Blond” or “pre-reformulation EL Private Collection.” But are there any currently available perfumes that you haven’t tried yet but would like to?

My Answer

In the last couple of years, I rarely feel an urge to try anything specific. I do still enjoy trying new (for me) things, but I rarely care for anything specific – and even less so if I’d need to pay for a sample.

So, I don’t have a formal “to try” list now. But if I think about it, I can come up with several perfumes I am curious about: several recent releases from AmouageGuidance, Lineage, Purpose and Search (though, I’m not sure I like the names), Armani Magenta Tanzanite (though I wasn’t a huge fan of the previous “stones” in the collection) and Ormonde Jayne Sakura and Fearless (and while I am at it, any other new perfumes OJ released in the last 2 years).

 

How about you?

Do You Have Any Perfumes on Your “To Try” List?

Saturday Question: What Was the Last Perfume in Your Collection that Wowed You?

Do you know how hard it is to put some questions in a short form? Something simple like “What is Your Favorite Beach Scent?” or “Name Your Top 10 Birch Tar Perfumes” is easy. But every time I try to ask something more complex (in form), I risk either running a 3-line question or to confusing you all. I just hope you read my explanations and do not rush to answer based on the first impression.

Saturday Question on Undina's Looking Glass

Saturday Question #175:

What Was the Last Perfume in Your Collection that Wowed You?

So, I’m not asking about the last perfume that you loved and bought. We have great collections, and I assume we like most of the fragrances we own. I’m asking about the case when you sprayed on one of your favorites from your fragrant wardrobe and thought to yourself: “Wow! It is so beautiful!” (or something along the line).

What was that perfume? When?

My Answer

This year isn’t the easiest for my family, and I noticed that my perception of perfume is slightly skewed: more often than I’d like it to, I put on a scent I own and think: “It is nice, but I remember liking/loving it much more.” It doesn’t go into the territory where I dislike those perfumes, but I can’t help feeling slightly disappointed by not being enamored of it as I used to be. So, these days, when I do admire perfume I’m wearing, I feel especially grateful to it.

The last time it happened was a couple of days ago when I reached out to Atelier Cologne Clémentine California. I always liked and enjoyed wearing it, but when I bought it six years ago, I thought it was in the same category as the other two citrus perfumes that I liked from the brand (When Life Gives You Clementines, Enjoy Them). Since then, it grew on me, becoming my favorite Atelier Cologne perfume. But that last time, as I put it on, it was that “Wow” reaction that I hope for every time I spray on my SOTD but don’t get often.

Rusty and Atelier Cologne Clementine California

How about you?

 

What Was the Last Perfume in Your Collection that Wowed You?

Saturday Question: How Many Chances do You Give Perfumes You didn’t Like?

I’m running late this week, so it’s more like a Sunday Question, but I decided to keep the title.

Saturday Question on Undina's Looking Glass

Saturday Question #174:

How Many Chances do You Give Perfumes You didn’t Like?

If you have a sample in your possession, tried it and didn’t like – what do you do? Do you try it again? How many times? What do you do with those samples after that?

My Answer

I’m a sample hoarder. Which wouldn’t have been that bad on its own since most of my samples are tiny (so, I don’t waste too much of perfumes), but unfortunately, I keep testing them again and again. There are two scenarios, and I don’t even know which one is more frustrating.

In some cases, I can’t believe that I didn’t like that perfume (on the previous dozen of occasions!) and think that maybe this time… But even more often I just don’t remember what I thought about that sample and instead of checking my database (as any sane person would do), I decide to try it again. Only recently, I started setting aside those samples that I decided I shouldn’t test any longer – if I don’t forget, of course. I need to learn to be more ruthless and save my testing time for those perfumes that have any potential either for wearing or at least for becoming a part of a story.

 

How about you?

How Many Chances do You Give Perfumes You didn’t Like?

Saturday Question: An Ambassador of What Brand Would You Like to be?

How is your summer going? Is it hot now where you live? Do you spend more time outside these days? I hope you’re still around to participate in this week’s Saturday Question.

Saturday Question on Undina's Looking Glass

Saturday Question #173:

An Ambassador of What Brand Would You Like to be?

I know that none of us is influential enough to be even considered for this role for any of the brands, either upcoming or well established. But just as a mental exercise, if you were given such an opportunity, an ambassador of what brand would you like to be?

My Answer

Our weather is almost perfect: it’s not going to be above 27C/80F for the next 10 days, and as soon as our hot summer sun goes down, the temperature drops, and 15 degrees difference between the hottest and the coolest temperature of the day is great to cool off everything around.

When I came up with this question, I thought that it would be hard for me to choose a brand. But as I went through the list of all of my favorite perfumes, I realized that there were just 3 brands that I love enough to consider for such an important commitment. I do not want to “take” it from you, so I won’t name the contenders (I’ll chime in if anyone mentions my two “runner ups”). The brand I chose is Amouage. Even though my biggest loves from the brand are from their earlier years, I still find their perfumes interesting and try to test everything they release (when I’m not on “no-buy,” of course). And with each next perfume they create, I hope for the next Ubar, Gold, Dia or Lyric. And not only I like many of their perfumes and aesthetics, last year on Instagram they did a series where they presented people who worked on their perfumes. Not a creative director or a perfumer, but regular workers – the woman who glues golden seals on the flacons, the man who oversees the maturation and maceration of concentrates and others. I remember thinking that it was a clever campaign.

Amouage Collection

How about you?

An Ambassador of What Brand Would You Like to be?

Saturday Question: Have You Had a Change of Heart About Any of Your Perfumes Recently?

After a series of “favorite perfume” Saturday Questions, let’s do the opposite.

Saturday Question on Undina's Looking Glass

Saturday Question #172:

Have You Had a Change of Heart About Any of Your Perfumes Recently?

We’re not talking about perfumes that never worked for you or those that you never got because you weren’t sure if you cared for them. The question is about perfume that you used to like and still have in your collection but no longer feel attracted to.

A bonus question: Do you plan to keep it?

My Answer

For many years, I don’t remember significantly changing my mind about my perfumes: once I got any into my collection, I would feel attached to it and happily wear it occasionally. But in the last year, something has changed, and I periodically surprise myself with the realization that I don’t enjoy any longer perfume I just put on.

The most recent disappointment was Penhaligon’s Ostara. It has never been my top favorite, but I liked wearing it in Spring. I sprayed it a couple of weeks ago and almost immediately regretted it. It wasn’t awful, but for some reason that day, it felt “off,” and I could barely wait for it to dissipate.

I don’t plan to do anything about Ostara for now: I’ll try it again next year to see if I would like it again. Since it had been discontinued and can’t be repurchased, I don’t want to regret later parting with it on a whim.

 

How about you?

Have You Had a Change of Heart About Any of Your Perfumes Recently?

Saturday Question: What Perfume Would You Wear for Your Wedding Today?

I know, I know: most of my loyal readers are either already married or do not plan to. But it’s my anniversary week, so I have weddings on my mind. And by the power vested in me by WordPress G-ds… Well, since it’s my blog, let’s talk about weddings perfumes.

Saturday Question on Undina's Looking Glass

Saturday Question #171:

What Perfume Would You Wear for Your Wedding Today?

I mean, if you were to get married today, what would be your perfume of choice?

My Answer

Many moons ago, my wedding perfume was my all-time favorite Lancome Climat. So, would it have been today, I would have still chosen it, I think. Though, I might go for my second long-time favorite – Ormonde Jayne Ta’if.

Other contenders for me would be Amouage Gold (though, it would be very similar to Climat), Amouage Dia, Armani La Femme Bleue or Les Parfums de Rosine Rose d’Amour.

How about you?

What Perfume Would You Wear for Your Wedding Today?

Saturday Question: What Is Your Favorite Guerlain L’Art & La Matière?

After questions about the private lines of Chanel and Dior, I think it’s time to see how we fare with everyone’s darling Guerlain.

Saturday Question on Undina's Looking Glass

Saturday Question #170:

What Is Your Favorite Guerlain L’Art & La Matière?

Do you love any of them? Too many or not at all? Do you own them? Do you wear them?

Have you tried any of the new ones that they released last year?

My Answer

My most favorite perfume from the line, Cruel Gardenia, is from pre-reformulation time. I was so scared when I learned about the upcoming repackaging that I bought a backup bottle. Recently, I tried a new version at a store: without comparing it side-by-side with the one that I have, I can’t tell how much it has changed.

I smelled several new perfumes released in 2022, but since I’m not an agarwood fan, I didn’t give them any skin time, so I didn’t form a definitive impression of them. Anyway, I have at least two perfumes in the line that I would buy before any of the new ones.

Guerlain Cruel Gardenia

How about you?

 

What Is Your Favorite Guerlain L’Art & La Matière?