To Wear or Not to Wear?

It all started with me thinking on Joshua’s (The Smelly Vagabond) question: What perfumes would you bring along with you if you had to live abroad for a year? He limited himself with decants of 10 perfumes and articulated well his criteria for making that type of selection. Then in one of the perfume-related Facebook’s groups I read another question: Is there a fragrance that you couldn’t live without, in your younger day but will never wear today? These questions together shaped the direction of my thinking.

Rusty and Vials

This summer was emotionally difficult for me and for a while I didn’t pay too much attention to my perfumes choices: I would go with my usual ritual of looking through the cabinet to decide which perfume I haven’t worn in a while, think of how appropriate it would be for the occasion, weather and sometimes my outfit – and then put it on. But since I’m recording each of the applications in my perfume database, over time I realized that I seemed to enjoy my choices less than I used to in the past. For a while this realization kept me from using my most favorite perfumes out of fear to be disappointed. But life went on and I stopped limiting my choices by the “expendable” perfumes only.

What I noticed looking at the records later, I had no change of heart about perfumes that I loved but I changed my mind mostly about perfumes with which I had more intellectual relationships. I didn’t dislike any of them but I didn’t enjoy them the way I did before.

Choosing perfumes for a remote location I would have to follow my heart because any well-balanced and smartly put together list might go right out of the window with the first challenge – and then I would end up spending time with perfumes I respect but do not love. Would I still want to wear them? Would you?

Think of a perfume in your collection that you bought because you persuaded yourself that you should have it or the one that you used to like but somehow never come around wearing any more. Now imagine that you’re packing for a three-month trip where you will not have access to any perfumes. You have a choice: to go completely scent-free for the duration of the trip or to take that perfume you do not love any more but then you’ll have to use it following your regular pattern.

Wilted Rose

Would you go commando perfume-wise rather than wearing perfume you do not like any longer for three months straight?

 

Image: my own

A Fairy Tale Ending, Perfumista-style

When was the last time you cried because of perfume? I did two days ago. It wasn’t exactly because of perfume but closely related to it.

In the post Memories, Dreams, Reflections…  I told a story about one of my earliest perfume memories and how I never got to smell that perfume even though I remembered it for all these years.

Daisy (coolcookstyle) promptly found this item on eBay and sent me a link. I checked it out but being my usual spontaneous self (not!) I decided to think about it (“Who else would buy it until the end of the work day?” I thought). And by the time I went to look at it again it was gone. I was a little angry at myself: this perfume (well, its box) had such a meaning for me – why didn’t I snatch it when I could?! But I told myself that sooner or later another one will appear on eBay.

When I got a box from Daisy I was surprised: I couldn’t remember us discussing recently any swaps and I was positive it couldn’t have been her award-winning Mango-Lime-Tequila Sorbet  – even though I expressed the desire to be a Guinea pig if she ever needed one. The box contained another box and a card that read:

Surprise!
Much love + hugs
from
Daisy & Hajusuuri

The smaller box had a carefully packed and sent all the way from Ukraine a bottle of Zolushka in a double-walled box that mesmerized me when I was 5. I couldn’t help crying – so touched I was with that act of kindness and friendship from Daisy and Hajusuuri.

Rusty and Zolushka

Rusty tries out as Cinderella (Zolushka) in the picture

The box looks exactly how I remembered it – just smaller, which is understandable: I was little when I saw it last. Many things in childhood seemed larger than I see them now. If you look inside the mirror you can see the skirt of the dress but there are no legs so for all I know there still might be a mermaid tail somewhere in there. As to the scent – it smells like an old perfume from my childhood (not this specific one since I’d never tried it but a recognizable scent from that epoch). I won’t be wearing it but the box will join my collection on the shelf where I can see it every time I go for any other bottle.

I want to say “Thank you!” to Daisy and Hajusuuri, as well as to Vanessa, Natalie, Lucas, Kafka, Portia and my RL friends who supported me when I needed it. Thank you.

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In the Search for the Perfect Black Currant: P.S.

Do you read beauty blogs? I follow a couple of “mixed media” blogs (perfume + make-up) but compared to the amount of perfume-related sites I frequent you might say I don’t read them at all. Though maybe I should? Sometimes they prove to be very useful. But I’m running ahead of myself.

Last year while perfume shopping sniffing at Barney’s with Natalie (Another Perfume Blog), we stopped at a Lipstick Queen counter: I wanted to show her the Hello Sailor lipstick I featured in the In the Search for the Perfect Blackberry: P.S. post. I also secretly hoped to find Black Tie Optional gloss. Instead my attention was captured by their Chinatown glossy lip pencil in the shade Mystery.

Lipstick Queen Chinatown Mistery

My wallet was on its way out of the purse when Natalie stopped me and explained that for the money ($18 at the time) all I was getting was what you can see on the picture above. We spent some time trying to figure out if it had some hidden turning mechanism or something like that. Nope. It was a solid plastic tube with a relatively large but still not-enough-for-the-price gloss tip.

It was a reasonable thing to do so we left Barneys empty-handed though on the perfume side it was totally their fault: if I remember it correctly, they were out of either a size or a perfume Natalie wanted.

Months later, by mere chance, at Tinsel Creation I stumbled upon a review of another shade of that Chinatown lip pencil in which Jessica not only praised the quality of the gloss, but explained how good was the sharpener that came with the pencil.

The next time I happened to be at Barneys I re-confirmed with an SA that I could actually sharpen the pencil – and it went home with me.

Lipstick Queen Mistery, Hello Salor and Laura Mercier Black Orchid Swatches

With all other lipsticks I have in similar shades did I really need that lip gloss? You know the answer. Does it look like black currant? The tip of the pencil reminds a slightly unripe berry. On lips it’s a shimmering berry tint. But I enjoy how smoothly it glides, how easy it is to apply and how nice it looks on my lips. So I’m glad I read that post on a beauty blog.

Can you recommend any beauty blog that you follow and like?

Images: my own

In the Search for the Perfect Berry: Black Currant

As a child I spent summers at my grandparents’ house. When I wasn’t playing with my summer friends* or hiding from the heat in the house, I would be reading in the garden’s summerhouse.

As many children do, every year I would re-read some of my favorite books. One of such books was a collection of Polish fairy tales. Fern Flower (Kwiat paproci) by Józef Ignacy Kraszewski was the first story in the book so I probably read it every time before I would get bored and start skipping stories.

Book Tam Gde Visla Reka

It’s a grim story about a young guy who got obsessed with finding a fern flower that, according to Slavic mythology, blooms once a year deep in the forest on the Kupala Night (around Summer solstice) and promises great wealth and granting any wishes to whoever finds it. He attempts it three times. Every year he goes into the forest next to the village where he lives. And every year he doesn’t recognize the forest that he knows well – it is darker and scarier than usually and plays tricks on him: trees are taller, bushes are thicker; he hears strange noises and sees things. Twice he almost gets the illusive flower but it disappeared at the first light of dawn. The third time he succeeds but here comes the fine print: he cannot share his luck with anybody. He abandons his family and leads a life of luxury but it doesn’t bring him joy. He’s torn between keeping his wealth and helping his family but by the time he decides to come back it’s too late: his parents and siblings are dead from the poverty, he wishes to die as well and disappears from the face of the Earth with the flower that all these years was rooted in his heart. Curtains down.

Mysterious forest with pine trees around which you go forever just to see that they are not that huge once you pass them and unexpected deep marshes that disappear once you get through – is what I always imagine when I think of enchanted forest. Nowhere in that mental picture can I find black currant: probably because that berry doesn’t grow in the forest – enchanted or otherwise. Wild strawberry, raspberry – yes, I can easily imagine those but not black currant.

And still Enchanted Forest by Vagabond Prince makes total sense to me: there were three black currant shrubs next to that summerhouse in which I read and re-read Fern Flower year after year. So the smell of black currant leaves (I always liked it) and berries (I wasn’t a big fan of those as a child) somehow weaves in my mind with that fairytale image of an enchanted forest, Kupala Night and magic.

Redwood

Enchanted Forest created by Bertrand Duchaufour for Vagabond Prince in 2012 includes notes of pink pepper, aldehydes, sweet orange (traces), flower cassis, blackcurrant leaf, hawthorn, effects of rum and wine, rosemary, davana, blackcurrant buds absolute (by LMR from Grasse), CO2 blackcurrant (by Floral Concept from Grasse), Russian coriander seed, honeysuckle, rose, carnation, vetiver, opoponax resinoid, Siam benzoin, amber, oakmoss, fir balsam absolute, Patchouli Purecoeur®, castoreum absolute, cedar notes, vanilla and musk. If you haven’t smelled it yet and want a real review, here Kafka does a great job describing the scent – even though she doesn’t really enjoy it on her skin. Me? I love this perfume! The tartness and juiciness of the black currant and fir opening, the warmth and smokiness of the amber and incense resinous development – I enjoy them immensely. The drydown reminds me of one of my winter rituals – drinking Peet‘s Black Currant black tea with honey. Add to this picture a Christmas tree or pour the tea into a thermos and go to a close-by redwood forest – and you’ll get a perfect gustatory illustration of Enchanted Forest.

Black Currant tea and Honey

I urge you to try both – the perfume and the tea+honey combination: I think they both are very interesting, unusual and, if it’s your cup of tea (take it figuratively or literally, as you wish), very enjoyable. But even though I like both, I can’t drink that tea all the time and I can’t imagine wearing Enchanted Forest daily.

I used up a couple of free samples I got. I swapped for another sample that I’m using now and I paid for a small decant. I would buy a 30 ml or maybe even a 50 ml bottle of Enchanted Forest in a heartbeat – I like it that much and the bottle itself is quite appealing. But there is no way I’ll buy 100 ml of this perfume. And I still can’t believe that founders of Fragrantica (out of all people!) thought it was a good idea to launch this perfume in a single size – 100 ml.

 

* I’ve never seen them during the school year since my grandparents lived 8-hours bus ride away from us.

 

Previous posts in the series In the Search for the Perfect Berry: Strawberries and Blackberry. Also see other posts in the Single Note Exploration category.

 

Images: book – found somewhere; the rest – my own.

Entertaining Statistics: July 2014

The longer you are involved with perfumes as a hobby, the more perfumes you get to test and own, the harder it gets to be excited by a random positive review for a perfume – either a new release or the one you just haven’t tried before.

When it’s a review from a person I know (or “know”) I might get a lemming, especially when I know from the past experience that our tastes have enough intersections. But even if our tastes differ, I would have a hard time ignoring let’s say a 5-bone rating from Steve (The Scented Hound) or Birgit’s (Olfactoria’s Travels) “acute perfume fidelity syndrome“.

If the same person – regardless of the tastes mapping between us – tells a story of a sudden love and a bottle joining their collection, those perfumes attract even stronger attention: if a fellow-perfumista splurges on a full bottle of some perfume, it must be good – right?

But the highest recommendation and the strongest interest, at least for me, comes from those “Top X” lists. Think about it: somebody who has tried as many perfumes as you have, considers some perfumes best of the best – how can I not to be curious about those perfumes?

With these thoughts I ran some numbers based on one of Olfactoria’s Travels’ Monday Question posts – Your Top Five Part V: Perfumes.

Birgit asked: “What are your Top Five Favorite Perfumes?” Forty people replied to the question naming 141 perfumes from 59 brands. No real surprises from the top 10 brands: most of them usually make it to these types of lists:

10 Most Popular Brands OT May 2014

The most popular perfume was also an easily predictable choice – Guerlain Shalimar. 6 people named it among their top 5 perfumes. What did surprise me was that Chanel No 5 wasn’t mentioned even once. Ormonde Jayne Woman got the second place with 4 votes. The next ten perfumes were named three times each: Amouage Lyric, Chanel 31 Rue Cambon, Frederic Malle Carnal Flower and Portrait of a Lady, Guerlain Vol de Nuit, L’Artisan Parfumeur Traversee du Bosphore, Mona di Orio Vanille, Neela Vermeire Creations Mohur, Parfum MDCI Chypre Palatin and Vero Profumo Mito.

One more number that was unexpected for me: I’ve never tried 30 (thirty!) of the perfumes that others named as their top 5 favorites:

Brand Name
Badgley Mischka Badgley Mischka
Bal a Versailles Bal a Versailles
Dana Tabu
Dior Cuir Cannage
Dior Eau Sauvage
EldO Fils de Dieu
Gianfranco Ferre Ferre
Guerlain Habit Rouge
Guerlain Quand vient la pluie
Guerlain Vetiver
Guerlain Vetiver pour elle
Heeley Iris de Nuit
Jean-Louis Scherrer Scherrer 2
Kenzo Oriental Flower
Laboratorio Olfattivo Nirmal
L’Artisan Al Oudh
Maria Candida Gentile Cinabre
Nabucco Amytis
Parfum MDCI Rivage des Syrtes
Patricia de Nicolai Musc Intense
Profumi del Forte Roma Imperiale
Ramon Monegal Very Private
Roberto Cavalli Oro
Roja Dove Amber Aoud
Roja Dove Danger
Roja Dove Unspoken
Stéphane Humbert Lucas 777 Khôl de Bahreïn
The Party The Party in Manhattan
Vero Profumo Mito Voile d’Extrait
Vero Profumo Onda Voiles d’Extrait

 

I know that tastes are very different, so I expect others to like many perfumes for which I do not care. But the fact that I haven’t even tried so many perfumes others love amazes me. How many of these are you familiar with? If you were to recommend me to try just one out of these 30, which perfume would it be?

 

Image: my own