Jo Malone

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WTD, Episode 3.4: In the Search for the Perfect Linden

Early summer of my High school graduation year. Blooming linden trees in the downtown of the city where I lived. Bitter-sweet scent fills the air. Bitter-sweet feelings overflow me: I’m done with all the tests and school is almost over; he doesn’t love me anymore and isn’t coming to my graduation party. Even though I asked him to do it as a favor from a friend; even though I wasn’t creating any drama and behaved very mature (well, that was how I imagined behaving mature): most of our mutual friends had no idea we broke up more than two months ago, we didn’t want to complicate the group’s dynamic.

My heart was broken; it felt like the end of the world. And at the same time I fully realized it wasn’t the end of the world. But I hurt and it felt lonely and empty at the moment.

I remember walking the streets, inhaling the bitter scent of linden blossom and wanting to be happy… It was a very abstract thought. I didn’t define what exactly “happy” would mean, I didn’t have any specific wishes; I just wanted to change that one component of my life. I was longing for a combination of a warm evening, problems left behind, wonderful bitter scent of linden and a feeling of a complete happiness.

…

Many years later, while I still knew almost nothing about perfumes other than that I enjoyed using them and a couple of the most known brands and names, I thought it would be great to get a perfume that smelled like linden. You can imagine how much luck I had in late nineties asking SAs in department stores for this specific note in perfumes. Several years later I tried running Internet searches for that scent and again didn’t succeed.

French Lime Blossom by Jo Malone – created in 2005, notes include bergamot, tarragon, French Lime Blossom and some generic “floral notes”. This was the first Jo Malone’s colognes with which I went beyond samples. I bought a small 9 ml bottle of it. I do not remember if I liked it the most out of all I tested then or if I just happened to get a good deal on it, but I got it and enjoyed it … for a year (or even more) before I learned that the perfume I liked was actually based on the note I was looking for. I had no idea that French lime blossom and linden blossom were synonyms. I won’t even claim English not being my mother tongue because as I’ve learned since then many natives think French Lime is just some variety of citrus. Does it smell citrus-y? Not at all. But I wasn’t analyzing the scent, I liked it and wore often. I didn’t recognize it but after I knew what it was supposed to be, I could agree that it somewhat reminded me of a linden blossom. French Lime Blossom has an average sillage and a surprising tenacity – it stays on my skin for more than 8 hours with a very distinct smell, not just the remaining base notes.

This month I again decided to combine my Weeklong Test Drive and Single Note Exploration posts, so here are several more linden-centered perfumes I had a chance to test.

Linden by Demeter – as many Demeter’s creations this one is a soliflore. I couldn’t find any information on when it was created. All I can say, it’s an uncomplicated, slightly chemical scent that survives for two-two and a half hours on my skin. It’s too simple for me to want to wear it alone but I found at least one interesting combination for it.

Tilleul by Provence Sante (EauMG – thank you for the sample) – no information on notes or creation date available. This perfume doesn’t work for me. On my skin it smells too sweet. For some reason when I smell it I think of pollen. Tilleul lasts for about three hours and then goes away leaving just that slightly nauseating sweet scent. Since I read many good reviews of the perfume I assume it’s my body chemistry to blame.

When I first read about the upcoming release of Andy Tauer’s linden blossom theme perfume I was very excited. I didn’t have a good reason to expect to like it (since so far I found just one Tauer’s perfumes that works for me out of five I tested) but I had a hope. I was lucky to win a sample from Scent less Sensibilities (Tarleisio, thank you – I enjoyed the excercise) and was waiting anxiously for it to arrive, I even postponed this post to allow myself to wear it two-three times before reaching a verdict.

Zeta by Tauer Perfumes – created in 2011, notes include lemon, bergamot, sweet orange, ylang, orange blossom, neroli, linden blossom, rose, iris root, sandalwood and vanilla. The first time I applied it I was very disappointed: it smelled nothing like linden blossom to me (I’m not sure why I was surprised since for the life of me I cannot smell lily-of-the-valley in Carillon pour un Ange). But I was insistent. I kept trying it again and again – alone and alongside with other linden perfumes. I still do not smell enough linden but I rather like the scent than not. It’s the best perfume – as a perfume – among all I tested for this post. It’s very complex, unique and fascinating. As many (all?) Andy’s perfumes are. I like it as a scent that I test. I’m not sure if I want to wear it as a perfume. And I am sad: I like that green pentagonal bottle and really hoped I would love the scent enough to warrant a full bottle purchase. I didn’t. In addition to everything said, Zeta completely dies on my skin after just four hours of wearing. All five previously tested Tauer’s creations “wore me” (I don’t remember who was the author of the phrase but when I read in some blog “I wasn’t wearing the perfume; the perfume was wearing me” I felt it described exactly how I felt for most Andy’s perfumes and especially those that didn’t work for me).

I haven’t found the perfect linden perfume yet and I’ll keep looking. But recently I bought a nice tea with linden. It reminds me of the linden flower tea that my grandmother used to harvest from the linden tree in her garden. In my childhood it was used as an herbal analog of Theraflu.

Read more: French Lime Blossom review at I Smell Therefore I Am, Tilleul review and Loving Linden from EauMG; reviews for Zeta at Perfume Shrine, the Non-Blonde, Perfume Posse and WAFT.

Image: my own

As always, feel free to post a link to your blog’s post(s) related to the topic.

See all episodes:
Weeklong Test Drives, Season 3: Jo Malone
WTD, Episode 3.1: Kohdo Wood Collection by Jo Malone
WTD, Episode 3.2: Tea Fragrance Blends by Jo Malone
WTD, Episode 3.3: Nectarine Blossom & Honey, Lime Basil & Mandarin and Pomegranate Noir by Jo Malone
WTD, Episode 3.5: Orange Blossom by Jo Malone

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WTD, Episode 3.3: Nectarine Blossom & Honey, Lime Basil & Mandarin and Pomegranate Noir by Jo Malone

Nectarine Blossom & Honey by Jo Malone – created in 2005, notes include nectarine, peach, plum, blackcurrant, vetiver and acacia honey.

Jo MaloneThis perfumes plays tricks on me: there is at least three people on whom I like this perfume very much – I smell, recognize and enjoy it whenever one of them wears it, alone or in combination with other scents (it layers nicely with Vanilla & Anise or with Grapefruit). It smells so good on my co-worker, but on me… I tried it on multiple occasions hoping it would smell different. But time after time it’s too fruity, too sweet, too… I can’t stand it. And still, on others it smells great. So I encourage everybody to try it on your skin before making a final decision.

Lime Basil & Mandarin by Jo Malone – created in 1999, notes include lime, mandarin orange, bergamot, basil, caraway, lilac, iris, patchouli and vetiver. This is one of my least favorite colognes in the line. I do not think of it as of poorly done or unbalanced perfume. It’s very clean, citrus-y and inoffensive. But it’s too… masculine(?) for my taste. Not in the meaning of being strong, manly or assertive but rather of non-feminine, simple and perfume-shy character. A woman could easily wear it I just don’t see why she would want to do so. It’s said to be a good layering element so if you happen to get it somehow give it a try (Jo Malone’s site suggests, for example, to combine it with the cologne I’ll describe next) but I’m done with it and the remaining portion of a sample will probably just die in my collection.

Pomegranate Noir by Jo Malone – created in 2005, notes include raspberry, plum, pink pepper, pomegranate, patchouli, frankincense and spicy woods. This was my first full bottle I bought from the brand. I like both the idea of a pomegranate in a perfume and this cologne’s scent. Unfortunately, these two aren’t connected in this creation. During the season usually I eat a half of a pomegranate a day so I think I’m very familiar with this fruit’s smell. I do not find it in the perfume at all. For me it smells like a combination of dried fruit and patchouli with woody undertones. I like it but I do not think it lives up to the name, to any of its two parts – neither it has a proper fruit, nor it’s really dark. It’s not as light and airy as many others Malone’s scents, but it’s still very sheer. It wears nicely in a colder weather. I have less than one fifth of the perfume left in my bottle. Will I go for the next one once it’s gone? I do not know.

Read real reviews at NST for Nectarine Blossom & Honey and Pomegranate Noir, at Perfume Smellin’ Things for Nectarine Blossom & Honey.

Image: my own

See all episodes:
Weeklong Test Drives, Season 3: Jo Malone
WTD, Episode 3.1: Kohdo Wood Collection by Jo Malone
WTD, Episode 3.2: Tea Fragrance Blends by Jo Malone
WTD, Episode 3.4: In the Search for the Perfect Linden
WTD, Episode 3.5: Orange Blossom by Jo Malone

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WTD, Episode 3.2: Tea Fragrance Blends by Jo Malone

Early this year (2011) Jo Malone introduced a limited edition collection Tea Fragrance Blends created by Christine Nagel.

“Five distinctive, contemporary scents, inspired by that most quintessential of British traditions – when everything stops for tea.” (Jo Malone official website).

English TeaI tried all five colognes from the collection and ended up buying three – Assam & Grapefruit, Earl Grey & Cucumber and Sweet Milk. Fresh Mint Leaf and Sweet Lemon both were nice but too simple. I wish Jo Malone released all five blends in a gift set of 9 ml each. Otherwise I had no use for 30 ml of a mint-centered cologne.

Earl Grey & Cucumber by Jo Malone – notes include bergamot, apple, jasmine, cucumber, angelica, davana, beeswax, vanilla, musk and cedarwood. I cannot smell any cucumber but I do get Earl Grey tea – not just a bergamot that is commonly used in many perfumes but the specific aroma you get from a freshly brewed Earl Grey tea. It wears very nicely on my skin, and I’m glad I bought it.

Assam & Grapefruit by Jo Malone – notes include grapefruit, black tea, cardamom, almond and patchouli (according to the official website; other sources mention also rhubarb, rose and musk). This one was an impulse buy. It smelled on paper much better than it smells on my skin. It’s a very subtle scent that turns too soapy on me half of the times I wear it. I tried to combine it with Sweet Milk and together they’ve created a nice spring scent but I’m not sure it needed to be a standalone cologne taking into the account that there is a very nice Grapefruit cologne in Jo Malone’s line. Robin at NST liked it much more so you might want to read her take on Assam & Grapefruit.

Earlier I’ve already told my story about Sweet Milk.

If you’ve tried colognes from the Tea Fragrance Blends collection do you think any of them are worth being brought back as a part of the permanent collection?

Image: my own

See all episodes:
Weeklong Test Drives, Season 3: Jo Malone
WTD, Episode 3.1: Kohdo Wood Collection by Jo Malone
WTD, Episode 3.3: Nectarine Blossom & Honey, Lime Basil & Mandarin and Pomegranate Noir by Jo Malone
WTD, Episode 3.4: In the Search for the Perfect Linden
WTD, Episode 3.5: Orange Blossom by Jo Malone

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WTD, Episode 3.1: Kohdo Wood Collection by Jo Malone

In 2008 Jo Malone introduced two perfumes in the limited edition Kohdo Wood Collection – Lotus Blossom & Water Lily and Dark Amber & Ginger Lily. Unlike many other Jo Malone’s scents these two aren’t mellow and neutral, they have some character: it’s hard to be indifferent and just keep it on once you applied one of them; you either like them and want to wear (which I do) or you do not like them.

Water LilyLotus Blossom & Water Lily – notes include aquatic accord, grapefruit, bergamot, mandarin, lotus blossom, freesia, honeysuckle, water lily, jasmine, incense, amber, sandalwood, bamboo, musk, agarwood and guaiac wood. I like wearing this cologne in summer, it seems appropriate for a well air-conditioned office on a hot summer day. It has a lot of flowers in it but the perfume doesn’t smell like a bouquet, it’s reminiscent more of the Conservatory of Flowers  where exotic plants are collected together in a limited space and their fragrances mingle creating a beautiful combination. I went through several samples first and then bought a bottle. Of course, now I’ll use it less often.

Dark Amber & Ginger Lily – notes include black cardamom, pink pepper, ginger, night-blooming jasmine, orchid, water lily, rose, black amber, white pepperwood, leather, patchouli, sandalwood and Kyara incense accord. I didn’t like it when I initially smelled it so I decided against trying it on skin. Too bad: by the time I’d changed my mind (my father happened to like and wear it) it was long sold out. I swapped for a small decant so I’m fine scent-wise but I wish I got that nice black bottle (the 30 ml one). I think Dark Amber & Ginger Lily is a truly unisex cologne.

Both colognes can still be occasionally found on eBay but they aren’t easily available. For two years after the creation Jo Malone re-introduced the collection in spring and it was rumored that it might happen again. I heard it from an SA at Saks in December of the last year. I waited for four months and then gave up and went eBay-ing.

For real reviews read Perfume Smellin’ Things and Now Smell This

 

Image: my own

See all episodes:
Weeklong Test Drives, Season 3: Jo Malone
WTD, Episode 3.2: Tea Fragrance Blends by Jo Malone
WTD, Episode 3.3: Nectarine Blossom & Honey, Lime Basil & Mandarin and Pomegranate Noir by Jo Malone
WTD, Episode 3.4: In the Search for the Perfect Linden
WTD, Episode 3.5: Orange Blossom by Jo Malone

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Weeklong Test Drives, Season 3: Jo Malone

Jo MaloneFor the third season of my weeklong test drive (WTD) I’ve chosen Jo Malone. When I was planning it I thought it would be a full-fledged summer by now for which Jo Malone’s colognes are perfect. This year summer just doesn’t start about which I have no complaints since I’m not especially fond of the heat and I would be happy to live in “light jacket” weather all year round. But it’s the end of June, we’ve got at least a couple of very hot days and I decided to stick to the plan.

Jo Malone is a brand with which I’m very familiar and comfortable. I own more scents (in both full bottles and decants/samples) by this brand than by any other. Most of these colognes are very easy to wear because of their WYSIWYG (what you sniff is what you get) qualities. Many perfumistas are dismissive of them because of that but there are people who actually value exactly this trait – staying the same through the complete life cycle of the scent on the skin.

Jo Malone actively promotes combining scents (colognes and other body products) from their collections to create your personal favorite mix. I like the idea of combining. I like the interactive tool on their website. I like that those colognes, even not being soliflores, when combined, do not clash, do not create scents that are too busy or disorganized. Having said that, I want to admit that I always plan to play more the combining game and almost always end up using my favorite colognes “as is”.

Most of Jo Malone’s colognes have an average sillage (it’s present but rarely offensive), fair tenacity (on my skin they easily stay 4-5 hours) and a very user-friendly packaging/pricing: most scents come in 1 oz (30 ml) for $55 and 3.4 oz (100 ml) for $105. Don’t spend time looking for them at discounters. Some you can find slightly cheaper on eBay (with all usual caveats) but I would suggest waiting for a good gift with purchase from stores that sell this brand or subscribing to a newsletter from the brand’s website: they often send codes to get 9 ml travel size of one of their scents that can be used in addition to getting a free shipping and two samples of your choice.

Image: my own

See all episodes from the current season:
WTD, Episode 3.1: Kohdo Wood Collection by Jo Malone
WTD, Episode 3.2: Tea Fragrance Blends by Jo Malone
WTD, Episode 3.3: Nectarine Blossom & Honey, Lime Basil & Mandarin and Pomegranate Noir by Jo Malone
WTD, Episode 3.4: In the Search for the Perfect Linden
WTD, Episode 3.5: Orange Blossom by Jo Malone

See previous seasons:
Weeklong Test Drives, Season 1: Annick Goutal
Weeklong Test Drives, Season 2: Yves Rocher

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“Here’s a photo I’ve been looking for…”: Sweet Milk by Jo Malone

… the sense of smell can be extraordinarily evocative, bringing back pictures as sharp as photographs of scenes that had left the conscious mind.
Thalassa Cruso

I like Jo Malone‘s colognes. I own more full bottles of this brand than of any other. And then some decants and sample sprays. One way or another there are fourteen scents by Jo Malone in my collection. Not being familiar with the limited edition concept in the past, I’ve missed some of the perfumes I wish I haven’t. So this time I went to a store as soon as I read the new limited edition Tea Collection by Jo Malone became available.

Sweet Milk by Jo MaloneIt was an interesting idea – tea party components in a bottle. I concentrated on two “main” scents – Assam & Grapefruit (bought it) and Earl Grey & Cucumber (still thinking about getting it); I dismissed Fresh Mint Leaf and Sweet Lemon as nice but too simple; as to the Sweet Milk scent, it piqued my curiosity because it smelled … differently but I didn’t think I would like it. I sprayed it on my wrist just to see how it developed on the skin. And as I was sniffing it repeatedly, not only the scent but also my childhood memories started developing. And in no time my mind conjured vivid pictures from the past.

Dive in to keep reading…

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Tea Break

I enjoy drinking brewed tea. In my day-to-day life I consume mostly not caffeinated (not de-caffeinated!) teas from tea bags but on weekends or when having friends over I like making real tea. I’m not a tea snob, I do not read about teas even as much as I read about perfumes so I have no idea if teas that I like are amouages or britney spearses of the field. And I do not really care as long as I like how they smell, how they taste and how they look.

Golden Moon TeaI knew nothing about the brand when one of my friends brought a couple of Golden Moon Tea’s tins as a gift – one with White tea (with an unexpectedly for a white tea well-defined taste) and one with black tea and vanilla (they do not carry it any longer but this one is the closest to the one I tried before). If you were to apply L’Artisan’s Tea for Two lightly, wait for couple of hours and then add Diptyque’s Eau Duelle you would get something close to how Madagascar (black tea) smells.

Dive in to keep reading…