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Saturday Question: What Was The Last Perfume You Decided Not To Buy?

The last week ran away from me, and I missed the SQ. At least, it was a good reason: we went for a short trip with our friends, and I didn’t realize I wouldn’t be making back in time to ask Portia to take over for that week’s SQ. But now I’m back, so let’s do it!

Saturday Question on Undina's Looking Glass

Saturday Question #255:

What Was The Last Perfume You Decided Not To Buy?

It has to be something you liked and seriously considered as a contender to join your collection despite the fact you don’t need any more perfumes – and then, in the end, decided not to buy. Is it a final decision, or do you plan to revisit it in the future?

My Answer

A month ago, while talking about a wish list, I mentioned Parfums de Marly Delina Exclusif: it kept pulling me in, I was thinking about it and even did a couple of searches trying to find it with at least some discount. I got a sample from the store and wore it several times while going back and forth on whether I want to buy it.

Today I went to the store, sprayed it liberally from the bottle (I’d say, about 5 sprays), which is different from using a small sample, lived with it until the end of the day, and finally came to the conclusion that I do not love it. If it were to drop from the sky, I wouldn’t have said “No.” But even in that case, I don’t think I would wear it often enough. Hence, I just can’t justify buying it – not now, not ever. I am a little sad because of it: I thought I was in love with that perfume.

How about you?

What Was The Last Perfume You Decided Not To Buy?

Ambre Mythique by Maitre Parfumeur et Gantier
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Ambre Mythique by Maitre Parfumeur et Gantier

Hi there Looking Glassers, While you’re still stuck in cool weather but heading into warmer I thought we could look at one more gorgeous amber. Just for the love of it. Most of you would have heard of Maitre Parfumeur et Gantier ‘… founded in 1988 by the renowned perfumer Jean-François Laporte. Rooted in the tradition of 17th-century French perfumery, the brand draws its inspiration from travel, the world of opera, and baroque aesthetics.’ You’ll know Jean Laport from creating l’Artisan Parfumeur in 1976. He is quite the innovator and even when he is working within a trope he does it so flawlessly it’s like the idea has been perfected. Sadly the house has been lost in all the noise of new.

Ambre Mythique by Maitre Parfumeur et Gantier 2016

Ambre Mythique by Maitre Parfumeur et Gantier

Maitre Parfumeur et Gantier gives these featured accords:
Top: Bergamot, Geranium, Coriander, Incense
Heart: Myrrh, Lavender, Ciste labdanum
Base: Patchouli, Vanilla, Sandalwood, Tonka Beans

For many of the readers here a new amber perfume is the last thing on their list of needs. Yes, I’m much the same. Amber is one of my great perfume loves and the wardrobe is bristling with them. Last winter less than half of them even got worn. Yet, had I been in a shop with funds for spending I’d own the 120ml bottle already.

Opening with a deep patchouli/labdanum/incense smokiness, Ambre Mythique is furry and goat-ish but also has a whisper of crisp rose and greenery. A seriously warming fragrance that is leaning heavily into the heat here in the dying gasps of Sydney summer. Fire, smoke, woods and that beautiful animalic resinous sweetness of amber. So rich and burnished.

Very diffusive but not a screaming beast, longevity is off the charts. Spritz at 6am and you’ll still smell the rich remnants at midnight. GAH! I really want a full bottle of Ambre Mythique right now.

Ambre Mythique by Maitre Parfumeur et Gantier

You can see I just shook the decant in the photo before spritzing because some of the ingredients had sedimented over time. There’s only about 2ml left and it is a glorious amber colour.

LuckyScent still has bottles and samples

Are you a too many ambers person or is there room for one more?
Portia xx

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Saturday Question: Have You Tried Any Aphorismes Fragrances?

Wait! Don’t go away! I promise I don’t plan to ask you about each of the dozens (hundreds?) new brands that appear on the market. But there are a couple that seemed more special, so I want to learn what you think about those.

Saturday Question on Undina's Looking Glass

Saturday Question #254:

Have You Tried Any Aphorismes Fragrances?

If yes, which ones? Did you like them? If no, are you curious about them?

A bonus question: Do you have any favorite perfumes by Dominique Ropion?

My Answer

I don’t remember how I came across the news about Dominique Ropion having launched six perfumes in his own new brand, Aphorismes, but unlike most of the new launches, this one attracted my attention.

All my life, I have told stories, many stories. Today, I am adding a new chapter. These six perfumes encapsulate the essence of my craft as a perfumer, the territories I have continuously explored. These essences, I see them as concentrations of life, designed to evoke delight and invite each person to tell their own story. They are invitations to embody emotion, sent to those who will wear them.
– Dominique Ropion

While I can’t say that Ropion is my favorite perfumer, I have several favorite perfumes created by him. And, in general, I think that if anyone, someone like him, after all the years creating perfume for others, deserves to have his own brand.

I haven’t tried any of the perfumes in this new line – A Rose is a Rose, Crazy Garden, Encens Insensé, Innocent Tuberose, My Clémentine and Oud à l’Amour. Currently, they are available from the brand’s store in Paris and from Jovoy. The brand’s site is “coming soon.” I am curious and will even consider paying for the discovery set when/if it becomes available.

My favorites created by Dominique Ropion: Cacharel Amor Amor (don’t have it any longer but used up a couple of bottles), Calvin Klein Euphoria (have never bought a FB but used up a couple of decants and regret not getting it when it was released first), Frederic Malle Portrait of a Lady (still have the original bottle and enjoy wearing it) and Une Fleur de Cassie, and my latest additions to the collection, Olfactive Studio Rose Shot, Iris Shot and Violet Shot.

How about you?

Have You Tried Any Aphorismes Fragrances?

Bois Sikar by Atelier des Ors
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Bois Sikar by Atelier des Ors

Heya Crew! Do you have brands that you sincerely love yet you have never bought a full bottle? This is my story with Atelier des Ors. Way back when I went to Esxence Megan even offered me a bottle of their newest release but I knew my bag was right at the limit so asked for a couple of sets of samples, one for me and one for a giveaway. Kicking myself ever since. Their bottles are so beautiful, I love the gold flakes and the fragrances are all so thoughtfully produced. Dozens of times I’ve had them in my basket but they just never seem to make it all the way through checkout. So I’m currently retrying a few to decide which one I’ll buy to congratulate myself on finishing my Celebrant Course (when I finally do!).

Bois Sikar by Atelier des Ors 2018

Bois Sikar by Atelier des Ors

Atelier des Ors gives these featured accords:
Top: Nutmeg, Precious Wood, Guaiac Wood
Heart: Vetiver, Styrax, Cedar Leef
Base: Tobacco Absolute, Cyrpiol, Incense

It’s easy to know why Bois Sikar is near the top of my to try list. Tobacco/wood/incense are all in my wheelhouse, add some spices and resins and I’m right there, front and center. of course, Atelier des Ors does it in their own way so let’s chat about it.

Dark, charred, smoky woods open Bois Sikar. There is also the smell of greenery torn and trodden. Like the cold dawn on a campsite with only coals left in the fire pit and the smell of dew drying on the trees. Add the scent of kicked up leaf mulch and someone not very far away cooking super crispy bacon.

As we head towards the heart resinous tobacco becomes noticeable and Bois Sikar becomes a warm fragrance. Lightly spiced and cozy with the smoke of burning incense wafting through. Some of you may remember the spicy woods of the 1980s mens fragrances? Imagine that genre but elevated by interesting, modern style. It’s almost oudh-y and has a deep whiff of band aid and barnyard.

Bois Sikar by Atelier des Ors decant

The base is very traditionally masculine woods, dark and mysterious. It stays interesting and a little raunchy right to fade. Having said traditionally masculine, I know you are mostly for sex free scenting, me too, but giving you the traditional names means you have a place to start in your head while reading. So, obviously, if you like the sound of Bois Sikar then it doesn’t matter where you lie on the scale, try it. You never know.

Were/are you a Bois Sikar devotee?
Portia xx

I bought my decant from Surrender To Chance.

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Saturday Question: Love Rules? Love Stinks?

I admit, the title is kind of a clickbait. Not that my regular readers need to be specifically enticed to participate in the SQ post, but I thought it would be a good playful way to pose a question related to a Valentine’s Day celebration.

While cooking our celebratory dinner, I decided to put on some music. Since I haven’t planned anything in advance, and I know my usual Italian Cooking Pandora channel by heart, I decided to check if my Sonos could offer anything occasion-appropriate. I checked, and there they were, two playlists – Love Rules and Love Stinks. And that gave me this idea.

Sonos Playlist

Saturday Question #253:

Do You Celebrate Valentine’s Day?

If yes, how? If no, why? Do you have special perfume(s) you wear on that day?

My Answer

We usually celebrate Valentine’s Day. We try not to participate in the organized part of it (other than using some decoration, themed napkins, etc.), but we cook something special, dress up and watch something romantic. And I always wear Annick Goutal Rose d’Amour. This year’s celebration was dampened by both of us being slightly sick. But we still managed to enjoy it. And my vSO spontaneously complimented me on my perfume (which was a miracle because even when not sick, he usually can’t smell what I’m wearing).

How about you?

Do You Celebrate Valentine’s Day?

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Saturday Question: Have You Ever Used Fragrance Primers?

My G-d daughter recently sent me a link asking if I knew about the product and what I thought about it. The product was Optimal Habitat Fragrance Enhancing Primer. The claim is:

Imagine if your scent could last 24 hours…

Now it can, with our fragrance primer. Inspired by the resilience of nature’s ecosystems, Optimal Habitat works in harmony with your skin’s unique biology to create the ideal environment for scents to thrive. By forming a nurturing layer on the skin, each scent note is amplified, allowing it to bloom to its fullest potential.

I didn’t know anything about that primer, so I promised to ask my readers.

Saturday Question on Undina's Looking Glass

Saturday Question #252:

Have You Ever Used Fragrance Primers?

Not necessarily this particular one but maybe some other similar product. Fragrance primer, booster or enhancer? Did it work? Would you repurchase?

My Answer

When I read a description for this product, I immediately remembered that I previously read about some other products that were supposed to work on extending perfumes tenacity on your skin. It took me a while to remember the name. It turned out, I was thinking in the right direction, but try typing “perfume” and “canvas” in a search engine and see what you’ll get. Finally, I figured out what it was – Canvas Fragrance Primer from Canvas & Concrete. It was released in 2014, and the Perfumeland was talking about it for some time. I’ve never got to try it. I don’t know what happened to that brand, but as of now, their website doesn’t respond.

I think that I read about some similar products as well, but I haven’t tried any of them. As I was researching the topic, I came across The Perfume Guy’s video on the topic. I have two of the perfumes he recommends as a booster – Molecule 01 (which I live) and D.S. & Durga I don’t know what (which I wasn’t impressed with). So, I might try using them in that role. though, to tell the truth, these days I rarely notice that my perfume has disappeared. And when I do, I re-apply it if I want to extend the experience or use that opportunity to wear or test a different perfume.

How about you?

Have You Ever Used Fragrance Primers?

Sunkissed Goddess by By Kilian
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Sunkissed Goddess by By Kilian

Heya Crew, Yes, I know. MORE recently purchased decants from Surrender To Chance. That this decant cost about half of last fortnights Guerlain may surprise you all, it did me. Remember when By Kilian were one of the most aspirational priced perfume houses in the world? Sure, they’re still expensive US$295 for a refillable Sunkissed Goddess 50ml from the By Killian site but that only seems pricey now rather than outrageous.

Since 2016 when Estée Lauder acquired By Kilian I’ve kept a little eye out, not really focussing but now that they’ve released this Limited Edition fragrance based on the Polynesian staple Manoi oil I’m interested. One of the brands famous pillars is Bronze Goddess which retails about US$85 for 50ml EdT (US$98 BGNuit EdP) and is a favourite of both Undina and myself. My memory (correct for once!) tells me Undina loves to take it on tropical holidays and I tend to use it to blow away the winter blues. It’s a staple. Plus the Lauder crew have also been doing a slew of Soleils over at the Tom Ford counter that range from US$300-405 in 50ml EdP. So they’ve deduced that tropical sunscreen with a boozy beverage sells (rightly so) and made them in accessible to aspirational offerings. Clever.

Sunkissed Goddess by By Kilian 2024

By Killian gives these featured accords:
Ylang-Ylang essence, Tiare Flower, Coconut

On first spritz my mind goes in a hundred directions. Oh yes, tropical beach suntanning in the late afternoon with a Pina Colada in a big glass and sunscreen slathered on. The slight prickle of salt still on your skin and through your hair and the smell of hot sand. I remember a few years ago Manoi oil became a thing here in Oz. Particularly among the early 20s club kids. For a brief moment, maybe a couple of summers, you’d walk in the club and it would smell like you’d found paradise. The older girls sun baking by the local swimming pool, their skin glistening with Reef Oil when we were kids. It’s all here in the first whiff.

Ylang in spades, coconut and vanilla all rolled together in some very luxe body lotion that does smell good. Really good. The heart into the base gets a lovely green banana leaf that lifts the experience. Apart from that Sunkissed Goddess is pretty linear and lasts well. Good projection for the first couple of hours then a whispering skin scent.

Sunkissed Goddess by By Kilian decant

So then, does Sunkissed Goddess smell like it’s worth more than three times Bronze Goddess? Yes and no. While Sunkissed Goddess does seem more luxurious and 5* hotel lotion-y I enjoy the story that the Bronze Goddess line tells. They seem more interesting, especially the Eau Fraiche ones with their citrus top over the rest. 2019s Bronze Goddess, with remarkably similar notes list still manages to be less ponderous and more jumping with life.

Now I’d like to read your thoughts please. Do you have favourites? Is this a genre you like?
Portia xx

 

 

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Saturday Question: Do You Still Have A Perfume Wish List?

Let’s stipulate once again that most of us have enough perfumes to last for years without us ever buying another full bottle, and we talked about it more than once. And yet…

Saturday Question on Undina's Looking Glass

Saturday Question #251:

Do You Still Have A Perfume Wish List?

I am asking not about those wouldn’t-mind-owning-if-it-were-to-drop-from-the-sky wishes. But do you have a list of perfumes that you are actually considering buying at some point? If yes, do you have it in your head? Or do you write it somewhere? What perfumes are on your list? And if no, is it because you just haven’t come across any that you would want to buy? Or is it a conscious decision not to buy anything at all?

My Answer

I don’t need any more perfumes… And I am still on a “very-low-buy.” And yet, I have a wish list.

On that list, there are two perfumes that I will definitely buy eventually – Puredistance Gold and Papillon Hera.  Gold has been on my list for almost 5 years: I finished the remaining couple of mls from the travel spray gifted by the brand that were left after a joint blogs giveaway hoping to buy my own bottle soon, but it hasn’t happened yet. But I still think it’s amazing and would want to wear it from time to time.

Two years ago, I fell in love with Hera after trying it from a sample I bought from Luckyscent. Buying a sample at that point was unusual for me, and I don’t remember why I decided to do it, not being a fan of the brand. Probably, because I liked their previous perfume, Bengale Rouge. I am glad that I did, because I find this perfume remarkable.

I don’t need more perfumes, but I’ll probably still buy these two. Eventually.

There is one more perfume that I know I should not be buying, but it keeps getting into my thoughts every time I see (and try) it at a store: Parfums de Marly Delina Exclusif. Until I tried this perfume, I was immune to this brand’s feminine offerings. I tried this one only because there was nothing else new in the store, and I was in the mood to test something… Now, every time I spray it at a store, for the first several minutes I think: “Nah, it’s not that great, I do not need it…” And then I can’t stop sniffing my wrist and later clothes it transferred to thinking how much I like what I smell.

How about you?

Saturday Question: Do You Still Have A Perfume Wish List?

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Sunday Question: How Many Perfumes From The Luckyscent’s Best of 2024 Have You Tried?

Even though I rarely buy samples these days, and I definitely don’t buy full-priced full bottles, I keep my newsletter subscriptions for several perfume stores and brands. Not long ago, an email from Luckyscent caught my attention with the offering of a sample pack of their “Best of 2024” and I clicked on the link. The sample pack was sold out, but it provided a topic for this SQ. These are 15 Luckyscent’s Best of 2024 perfumes:

Jasmine Tea by ONE DAY
Wavechild by Room 1015
Brownie Pop by Maison Mataha
L’eau de Parfum by Cirque du Soleil
Mantes-la-Jolie by Astier de Villatte
Summer Hammer by Lorenzo Pazzaglia
Glow by AKRO
Jany by Sora Dora
Almond Tart by Theodoros Kalotinis
Manakara by Indult
White Rice by d’Annam
On a Cloud by J-Scent
Vanille Debauche by KYSE
Nota Vanilla by Ulyka Parfums
Coffee Addict by Theodoros Kalotinis

 

Saturday Question on Undina's Looking Glass

Saturday Question #250:

How Many Perfumes From The Luckyscent’s Best of 2024 Have You Tried?

Would you recommend to try any of those that you tried?

My Answer

I am almost glad that by the time I saw that list the sample pack was sold out because I was tempted to buy it. Not only have I not tried any of these 15 perfumes, but I heard only of 5 brands on that list, Room 1015, AKRO, Indult, J-Scent and KYSE, and tried something from the last three of them.

How about you?

How Many Perfumes From The Luckyscent’s Best of 2024 Have You Tried?

Iris Pallida Extrait 6 by Guerlain
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Iris Pallida Extrait 6 by Guerlain

Dear Looking Glass-ers, I have a decant from Surrender To Chance. Yes, it cost an arm and a leg BUT I really didn’t want a full bottle. What I wanted after trying the Les Extrait collection in stores was to have enough to really get to know them in my own time, without the miasma of all the other perfumes beating my nose to death. So that’s what I’ve done. My 2ml spray decant has lasted months because I put some on a forearm and spend the next few hours luxuriating in Iris Pallida Extrait 6.

If you can afford these then I envy you (just a bit). US$630 for 50ml of extrait.

ALSO! arrived this week in the mail from the lovely Ingeborg, all the way from Norway to Sydney! Thank you. I seem to have lost you on social media (if we ever were connected) so I thought the best way to get my thanks to you is here on ULG. Jin and I are really touched. HUG. They will have pride of place on the fridge.

Ingeborg Xmas Postcards

Iris Pallida Extrait 6 by Guerlain 2023

Iris Pallida Extrait 6 Guerlain

Guerlain gives these featured accords:
Iris, almond, musk, suede, sandalwood

First breath of Iris Pallida Extrait 6 is almond meal, dry orris and something quite bittersweet like nougat with wood chips and some weird greenery darkness. It’s like fermented grass in an unturned pile during the hottest peak of summer. Sounds vile but actually it adds depth and interest to a fragrance that would otherwise be too simple, pretty and dull. As I head into the heart the suede and sandalwood become more apparent and a streak of cold wet cardboard heads in. Cardboard is one of my favourite facets of iris, combined with the other perfectly blended notes it is interesting rather than repulsive. The super glam Guerlain version of cold wet cardboard.

Towards the end of the heart my ride gives old fashioned make up vibes. Powdery, lipstick-ish and a little of hairspray. Very movie star and every housewife trying to live up to their impossible standards of beauty.  This stays and gets more woody, yet still that distinctive iris/orris till fade.

Iris Pallida Extrait 6 by Guerlain decant

Iris Pallida Extrait 6 is gorgeous. I’m unsure why we got these as a group instead of dropping one each year and why on earth did they come in extrait? I would quite like to have enjoyed it with more effervescence in an EdT and a swipe of the extrait to give it some extra depth (Did LVMH not think these perfumes worthy of pillar status?) This though is what we got and if I could spend that money right now I would without hesitation.

What did you think?
Portia x