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Saturday Question: An Ambassador of What Brand Would You Like to be?

How is your summer going? Is it hot now where you live? Do you spend more time outside these days? I hope you’re still around to participate in this week’s Saturday Question.

Saturday Question on Undina's Looking Glass

Saturday Question #173:

An Ambassador of What Brand Would You Like to be?

I know that none of us is influential enough to be even considered for this role for any of the brands, either upcoming or well established. But just as a mental exercise, if you were given such an opportunity, an ambassador of what brand would you like to be?

My Answer

Our weather is almost perfect: it’s not going to be above 27C/80F for the next 10 days, and as soon as our hot summer sun goes down, the temperature drops, and 15 degrees difference between the hottest and the coolest temperature of the day is great to cool off everything around.

When I came up with this question, I thought that it would be hard for me to choose a brand. But as I went through the list of all of my favorite perfumes, I realized that there were just 3 brands that I love enough to consider for such an important commitment. I do not want to “take” it from you, so I won’t name the contenders (I’ll chime in if anyone mentions my two “runner ups”). The brand I chose is Amouage. Even though my biggest loves from the brand are from their earlier years, I still find their perfumes interesting and try to test everything they release (when I’m not on “no-buy,” of course). And with each next perfume they create, I hope for the next Ubar, Gold, Dia or Lyric. And not only I like many of their perfumes and aesthetics, last year on Instagram they did a series where they presented people who worked on their perfumes. Not a creative director or a perfumer, but regular workers – the woman who glues golden seals on the flacons, the man who oversees the maturation and maceration of concentrates and others. I remember thinking that it was a clever campaign.

Amouage Collection

How about you?

An Ambassador of What Brand Would You Like to be?

Soleil Brûlant by Tom Ford
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Soleil Brûlant by Tom Ford

Hey there ULGers, Recently my mate Ainslie was given a bottle of Soleil Brûlant by Tom Ford in a perfume swap and did not find it to her taste. She passed it along to me and I’m so excited to give you a heads up on this very lovely fragrance. Now I’m the first to poo poo the ridiculous price point of Tom Ford scents, especially considering they are really just dressed up Estée Lauder. Even originally they were pricey but in the current rush to cash grab the whole expenditure has reached insane levels. In Australia this 50ml retails for nearly AU$500, that’s $10/ml. Ridiculous.

You’ll know perfumer Daniela Andrier’s work. She is responsible for the 2003 remix of YSL Rive Gauche, the Prada number extraits, Candy and Amber PH, Memo Moroccan Leather and ELdO I Am Trash among many others.

Soleil Brûlant by Tom Ford 2021

Soleil Brûlant Tom Ford

Parfumo gives these featured accords:
Top: Pink pepper, Bergamot, Mandarin orange
Heart: Black honey, Orange blossom absolute
Base: Resins, Frankincense, Vetiver, Amber, Leather, Woods

Fizzy citrus with a much more black pepper than pink feeling which quickly morphs into a honeyed floral. The floralness is transitory and leathery amber takes prominence quite early on. This and honey remain the key players till dry down with occasional wafts of woody greenery and white floral that keep it all interesting. There are some slight hints of that suntan lotion accord too, I’m surprised ylang and sandalwood aren’t mentioned in the notes list.

Soleil Brûlant means burning sun, so I thought this review particularly apt for you all in the Northern Hemisphere right now. For me though this fragrance has nothing to do with a burning sun and is much more like being curled up on a cold winter night watching TV with a clean pet and blanket. Maybe because that’s what I’ve been doing quite a lot of in the Sydney winter.

Interesting side note, black honey is only naturally produced by bees in northern Turkey. Other black honey is a manufactured product from sugar cane. There is also dark honey which is regular golden honey treated with heat, it changes the colour and only very slightly the taste. We have a friend who gives us dark honey for cooking and tea from his hives, it’s bloody gorgeous.

Soleil Brûlant Tom Ford

So a warm honeyed amber that’s totally unisex. Projection is good for the first hour or so and quietens considerably. Longevity is good, a soft whisper by the end of a work day.

I’m really glad to have this in my wardrobe. Did I need it? Amber is one of my largest note in FB but Soleil Brûlant scratches a different itch to the regular amber. So yes, it does fill a hole. Imagine it being an Estée Lauder Bronze Goddess for winter and you get my drift. If this cost 1/2 the price I’d probably have bought myself a bottle at retail.

Sound interesting?
Portia x

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Saturday Question: Have You Had a Change of Heart About Any of Your Perfumes Recently?

After a series of “favorite perfume” Saturday Questions, let’s do the opposite.

Saturday Question on Undina's Looking Glass

Saturday Question #172:

Have You Had a Change of Heart About Any of Your Perfumes Recently?

We’re not talking about perfumes that never worked for you or those that you never got because you weren’t sure if you cared for them. The question is about perfume that you used to like and still have in your collection but no longer feel attracted to.

A bonus question: Do you plan to keep it?

My Answer

For many years, I don’t remember significantly changing my mind about my perfumes: once I got any into my collection, I would feel attached to it and happily wear it occasionally. But in the last year, something has changed, and I periodically surprise myself with the realization that I don’t enjoy any longer perfume I just put on.

The most recent disappointment was Penhaligon’s Ostara. It has never been my top favorite, but I liked wearing it in Spring. I sprayed it a couple of weeks ago and almost immediately regretted it. It wasn’t awful, but for some reason that day, it felt “off,” and I could barely wait for it to dissipate.

I don’t plan to do anything about Ostara for now: I’ll try it again next year to see if I would like it again. Since it had been discontinued and can’t be repurchased, I don’t want to regret later parting with it on a whim.

 

How about you?

Have You Had a Change of Heart About Any of Your Perfumes Recently?

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Not a Bucket List Trip

This post is a travelog with minimum perfume-related content.

Do you have a bucket list? I don’t. And even if I did create one, a farmhouse stay probably wouldn’t have made the cut. But now, after experiencing it firsthand, I can confidently say that I’ve crossed it off my non-existent bucket list.

When we were planning our anniversary trip, we had a few criteria in mind: it had to be a car trip within a 4-hour limit, not another designated wine country excursion (we already do those 4-5 times a year), and a destination with moderate temperatures. Point Reyes, California, seemed like a promising option. After thorough research on Expedia and Airbnb, we decided to step out of our comfort zone and rented a farmhouse on a working cattle range in Nicasio, CA.

Day 1

SOTD: Jo Malone English Pear & Freesia.

Midday midweek traffic made our journey to Point Reyes a breeze. Since we arrived early for check-in, we decided to explore some renowned local cheese places.

Our first stop was Nicasio Valey Cheese Company conveniently located just off the main road. It’s a charming, tiny store with a window that offers a glimpse into their cheese-making process. They have an assortment of cheeses, crackers, jams, and chocolates. We couldn’t resist and ended up purchasing two cheeses.

Next, we ventured to Marin French Cheese Co., a larger store offering not only cheese and related products but also gifts and a cafe serving lunch. What captivated us the most was their picnic area. That was probably one of the rare cases when the photo looks almost more picturesque than what one’s eyes could register. After a brief introduction to their cheese varieties, we sampled four flavors (I don’t know who thinks that jalapeno is a good additive to brie), bought four (but not the weird ones) and took numerous photos of the grounds, promising ourselves to come back one day with a picnic.

Marin French Cheese Co Picnic Area

I know and like cheese from Point Reyes Farmstead Cheese Co., so I was curious to visit their home place. But had I known the road in advance, I would have probably skipped it. The narrow, unpaved path with blind spots made passing other cars a nerve-wracking experience. Nevertheless, we persevered and were rewarded with a “self-serve” tasting station at their shop.  We bought two – one familiar and well-loved, and the other a recent addition to their lineup.

Our final stop for the day was Point Reyes Vineyards winery. Having visited before, we didn’t have high expectations for their wines… and the place didn’t fail to live up to them. While their wines are plainly not good, they have two redeeming qualities: their well-kept sitting area and … the scarcity of activities in the area. All-in-all, we enjoyed a tasting with our own supply of cheese and bread.

The farmhouse we rented was located a 5-minutes drive down a windy gravel road, “tucked beneath the rolling hills” (from the listing). It was spacious, clean (as much as can be achieved with a non-IKEA-standard “sanitized” furnishing setup based on the real people’s house) and quite unique. On our way, we encountered cows and chickens, and upon arrival, we were delighted to receive fresh eggs and farm-produced meat (we ordered in advance). We hoped the cows and chickens were oblivious to our culinary plans.

View from the Porch

Day 2

SOTD: Lancome Climat

Given the limited activities in the area, our day mainly revolved around indulging in local cuisine rather than exploring the outdoors through hiking or biking, which isn’t our forte.

Morning breakfast with the local eggs and cheese sustained us through the walk in the Point Rayes Station “downtown.” This town hadn’t been too flourishing for as long as I remember it, but it seems that Covid has almost killed it. It’s the same small provincial town it was but now without tourists.

Other food stops this day included a couple of (square) slices of pizza at an outdoor pizzeria (better than could be expected), oysters (for my vSO) and crab claws (for me) at a roadside restaurant (both dishes were perfect) and the local meadery (though once we got there, I decided their tasting was too expensive for what they offer, so we skipped it this time). We concluded the day with a celebratory dinner at the farmhouse, showcasing our culinary skills.

Day 3

SOTD: Ormonde Jayne Ta’if Elixir

As our short two-night stay came to an end, on our way back, we decided that wine country wasn’t such a bad idea after all and visited two of our favorite wineries, Paradise Ridge and Sunce. Everything cooperated that day – exceptional wine, friendly stuff and beautiful weather. It was the perfect conclusion to a memorable trip. And when we got home, Rusty was happy to see us.

Rusty on a Chair

 

Images: my own

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Saturday Question: What Perfume Would You Wear for Your Wedding Today?

I know, I know: most of my loyal readers are either already married or do not plan to. But it’s my anniversary week, so I have weddings on my mind. And by the power vested in me by WordPress G-ds… Well, since it’s my blog, let’s talk about weddings perfumes.

Saturday Question on Undina's Looking Glass

Saturday Question #171:

What Perfume Would You Wear for Your Wedding Today?

I mean, if you were to get married today, what would be your perfume of choice?

My Answer

Many moons ago, my wedding perfume was my all-time favorite Lancome Climat. So, would it have been today, I would have still chosen it, I think. Though, I might go for my second long-time favorite – Ormonde Jayne Ta’if.

Other contenders for me would be Amouage Gold (though, it would be very similar to Climat), Amouage Dia, Armani La Femme Bleue or Les Parfums de Rosine Rose d’Amour.

How about you?

What Perfume Would You Wear for Your Wedding Today?

L’Air du Temps parfum by Nina Ricci
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L’Air du Temps parfum by Nina Ricci

Hello Fellow Fumies,

Some of you may know that way back in the dimness of time I was a Squirt Bitch for a department store in Sydney’s suburbs, my fragrance section was Guerlain, Oscar de la Renta, Worth and Nina Ricci. At the time I was so dazzled by the Guerlains and Oscars that poor old Nina Ricci got left behind, it was the 1980s and very few people were after such subtlety, especially once I started on my “Make a statement” spiel. I recently purchased some L’Air du Temps parfum just for old times sake. Then I found  on Fragrantica Miguel Matos did a sensational 2013 L’Air du Temps 65th Birthday piece and judging by the packaging on my acquisition it’s 1986-2008 juice, except the parfum has gold doves on the box. Which is a SCORE. Today was always going to be about L’Air du Temps but now it has an extra special reason, Happy 75th Birthday L’Air du Temps.

L’Air du Temps parfum by Nina Ricci 1948

L’Air du Temps parfum by Nina Ricci 1948

Parfumo gives these featured accords:
Top: Neroli, Rosewood, Spices, Bergamot, Peach
Heart: Carnation, Lily, Ylang, Iris, May rose, Orchid
Base: Sandalwood, Ambergris, Benzoin, Moss, Musk, Cedar, Vetiver

I love a floral, fruity, aldehydic opening of yesteryear, there is so much depth and glamour. It’s spicy and sugared, crisp and warm and fizzy, L’Air du Temps is fun! The parfum version is so much fuller and more powerful in the opening than my memories of the EdT back in the 1980s but the scent is still the same, no not the same but same enough to feel the memories flood back. Both cozy and starched elegance at the same time. Luminous! I am back in time over 20 years and just getting my first perfumista stars.

After the first ten minutes L’Air du Temps takes a definite step towards soft, there becomes space between the various notes and the wall of scent becomes a lovely warm floral aura that is still spicy and punchy but more restrained. There is so much going on in L’Air du Temps that I find it hard to pick individual notes. The cloves are most discernible and I can smell flowers but it’s a dream of flowers nothing specific. While half the time feeling totally old fashioned and dated it also is still spare and pretty enough through the heart to be at ease in today’s fragrant climate. An hour in and I am softly fragrant, maybe if I was sitting in a small room for a while you’d smell a change in the air but otherwise you’d have to hug me to know I’m perfumed.

L’Air du Temps parfum by Nina Ricci 1948 parfum

Amber and sandalwood/cedar are what I smell most of in the dry down, there are other things but I can’t decipher them as notes it’s more of a harmonious background hum. After around 4 hours L’Air du Temps goes so soft I can barely register it but I know that I’m not smelling me, it is definitely other, an amorphous wash that I lose at around 5-6 hours.

How does L’Air du Temps make me feel? Pretty, I feel pretty, no bold statement, very laid back and comfortable. Wearable on any occasion, even close working quarters would not be offended by L’Air du Temps parfum. It is subtle and glamorous without the hard work of appearing to be.

Do you have any L’Air du Temps memories you’d like to share?
Portia xx

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Saturday Question: What Is Your Favorite Guerlain L’Art & La Matière?

After questions about the private lines of Chanel and Dior, I think it’s time to see how we fare with everyone’s darling Guerlain.

Saturday Question on Undina's Looking Glass

Saturday Question #170:

What Is Your Favorite Guerlain L’Art & La Matière?

Do you love any of them? Too many or not at all? Do you own them? Do you wear them?

Have you tried any of the new ones that they released last year?

My Answer

My most favorite perfume from the line, Cruel Gardenia, is from pre-reformulation time. I was so scared when I learned about the upcoming repackaging that I bought a backup bottle. Recently, I tried a new version at a store: without comparing it side-by-side with the one that I have, I can’t tell how much it has changed.

I smelled several new perfumes released in 2022, but since I’m not an agarwood fan, I didn’t give them any skin time, so I didn’t form a definitive impression of them. Anyway, I have at least two perfumes in the line that I would buy before any of the new ones.

Guerlain Cruel Gardenia

How about you?

 

What Is Your Favorite Guerlain L’Art & La Matière?

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Saturday Question: What Is Your Favorite La Collection Privée Dior?

Last week we discussed Les Exclusif de Chanel, so I thought it would be interesting to try another grand house – Dior.

Saturday Question on Undina's Looking Glass

Saturday Question #169:

What Is Your Favorite La Collection Privée Dior?

Do you love any of them? Too many or not at all? Do you own them? Do you wear them? What was the last new one you tried?

My Answer

My relationships with Dior cooled off when they stripped my favorite Miss Dior of its name to promote the “impostor” pink juice (not even in the original kind of interesting formulation!). And then they repackaged their Privée line. I didn’t mind it in principle, but they released so many new perfumes that I felt completely lost and overwhelmed. So, I am not even sure which perfumes I tried and which I didn’t. The last one that I tried and liked was Vanilla Diorama. I don’t want a large bottle of it, but I like it enough to wear it from the sample a friend sent me.

Technically, I do not have a favorite La Collection Privee perfume since 2 I own came from the pre-reformulation La Collection Couturier Parfumeur line. But since “my” perfume is still present in the updated collection, I will nominate it: New Look 1947, the first full bottle I bought from this line. It feels very elegant. It is present but quiet. Slightly powdery, with a exquisitely balanced floral and amber notes. Tenacious but not tiring.

Dior New Look 1947

How about you?

What Is Your Favorite La Collection Privée Dior?

Cote d’Amour by L’Artisan Parfumeur (Long Gone)
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Cote d’Amour by L’Artisan Parfumeur (Long Gone)

Hi Crew, Cote d’Amour byL’Artisan Parfumeur was released way back in 2009. I remember first trying it a few years later and it was already impossible to find, especially out here in Oz. Then it turned up on Surrender To Chance a few years later in the 8ml sale. So I bought some. My decant is nearly 2/3 gone and after that there will be no more. I thought you might like to enjoy one of my last ever wears of this beauty together.

It caught my eye that this is a Celine Ellena fragrance. Cool!

Cote d’Amour by L’Artisan Parfumeur 2009

Cote d’Amour by L'Artisan Parfumeur

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Rosemary Grapefruit Tangerine
Heart: Immortelle Cypress Rose
Base: Pine Woodsy Notes Laburnum

My memories of first smelling Cote d’Amour are very fuzzy now, the where is completely gone. I do remember being told that L’Artisan were trying an All Natural route but smelling its now that seems highly unlikely. What I do remember is thinking how differently the pieces were put together. That it smelled like pieces of things I knew but nothing smelled quite like it. Also the name, it felt like love as an adventure. Something you’d travel great distances to find. Haven’t we all?

Anyway, let’s smell this long lost beauty eh? The happily strange greenly herbaceous citrus is gone way too quickly and overtaken by crisp green woods. There are still tinges of the opening, hollow reminders. The immortelle is clean, all that gooey, sticky, stanky fabulousness shorn off. It’s still recognisable but barely. This is immortelle light and if its presence is often a huge no for you then this will sit quietly enough I’m sure. I’m getting some very vanilla vibes, and some cedar-ish pencil shavings. Funnily, Jin just bought persimmons and the scent is a little like them with woody overlay.

Cote d’Amour L'Artisan Parfumeur

Though this has very typically L’Artisan low longevity when it starts to fade off and meld with my scent it becomes a sexy me but WAY better. So manly. Well, clearly that’s some connection I’m making from past olfactory experience. Can’t place it but that soft overtone on my own smell is bloody good. Not fragrant anymore but a sheer overlay. Very cool.

Do you remember this? Did you get to try it?
Portia x

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Saturday Question: What Is Your Favorite Les Exclusifs de Chanel?

I was thinking about large brands’ exclusive lines and realized that it has been a while since Chanel released their last perfume in their Les Exclusifs collection (it was Le Lion, back in 2020). I was too absent recently, so I haven’t heard any news about new launches from Chanel. Have you? Meanwhile, let’s talk about our existing favorites.

Saturday Question on Undina's Looking Glass

Saturday Question #168:

What Is Your Favorite Les Exclusifs de Chanel?

Do you love any of them? Too many or not at all? Do you own them? Do you wear them?

My Answer

While I like many perfumes from this line, I have just two full bottles, a couple of minis and a few decants in my collection. So it makes sense to choose one of the two FBs. I think.

So, if I had to choose just one, it would be Cuir de Russie, probably the most favorite leather perfume in my collection. (And I’ll chime in if you mention my other favorites in your comments.)

How about you?

What Is Your Favorite Les Exclusifs de Chanel?