Chypress by Floris

Chypress by Floris

Heya ULGers, One of my friends’ businesses here in Sydney City Perfume has been having a big sale on their Floris Travel Sprays. You may know that I’m gaga for a travel size. These are perfect, at 10ml, to throw in a bag and fly away. Also perfect when you know 100ml will probably never get used. So I grabbed three, only one of which I’d smelled properly: Night Scented Jasmine. I knew it was a love but couldn’t bear to buy another 100ml big white floral, so 10ml will do me fine. Probably more chance of me wearing it if it’s not a 100ml bottle in its box, in another box, in a cupboard, in my perfume room. Today I’ve been wearing Chypress and have just given myself another respritz. Maybe you’d like to come along for the ride?

Chypress by Floris 2017

Chypress by Floris

Floris gives these featured accords:
Top: Bergamot | Lemon | Orange Flower | Neroli
Heart: Jasmine | Rose | Osmanthus | Ylang Ylang
Base: Amber | Vanilla | Musk | Patchouli

If you were a fan of the early 2000s Narciso for her or SJP Lovely but wished for something a little more sophisticated then maybe Chypress is the one for you. Still a lean into the radiant floral but less OTT and more smoothly balanced. It’s like the next step in the story.

A rose flavoured orange blossom/ jasmine with a little tropical ylang running through. Not enough to be a major tropical night delight like Songes but a hefty nod to the genre. I love that the pithy musks of sharp citrus bergamot stay right into the heart. It gives a lovely shrill pipe above the bouquet.

Chypress dry down is that beautiful radiant white floral with a whisper of vanilla, still not tropical but a teeny bit more so.

Chypress by Floris

It’s now tomorrow lunchtime and still my arm has a wash of Chypress. That’s some serious longevity, maybe 16 hours. It’s more than a skin scent but you must be close to smell it.

Definitely leaning fem but I’ve been enjoying Chypress in dude mode for a couple of days now. Easy to wear and a lovely life story.

Have you tried Chypress? Sound good?
Portia xx

Saturday Question: Do You Own Any Italian Perfumes?

A couple of days ago, our friend S, who recently returned from his trip to Italy, asked in a group chat:

S: It has been a while. Anyone allergic to truffles?
A (another friend): … he said with hope in his voice
I (Undina): I won’t even ask what kind of truffles since my answer will be the same: nope
S: This Saturday, let’s put it to the test, along with some gluten

First, we picked up some Italian biscotti and torrone to bring with us for dessert. Then my vSO chose an Italian variety wine from our collection. And then I thought that it would be great to also wear a perfume from an Italian brand.

Saturday Question on Undina's Looking Glass

Saturday Question #281:

Do You Own Any Italian Perfumes?

What is your favorite? How about any perfumes with a truffle note?

My Answer

I was so excited when I came up with the idea and the question. But then I suddenly blanked out: what do I own? I knew that I had some, but the only brand I could remember without looking it up in my database was Xerjoff, so I decided that I would wear Irisss. But then I went to the database… Duh… I have at least 10 more full bottles of perfumes from Italian brands, not counting decants that I bought to wear. Surprisingly, only 4 perfumes in my DB had truffle listed as a note, but I do not own a bottle of any of them, and they were not from an Italian brand, so I didn’t consider them.

I will not list all of Italian or truffle perfumes I discovered to allow you all to come with your own lists. But I’ll share that in the end, I changed my mind and chose to wear Armani Prive La Femme Bleue.

Do You Own Any Italian Perfumes?

Oud Minerale by Tom Ford

Oud Minerale by Tom Ford

Hiya Looking Glass crew. Tonight I had a big black dog come visit. Out of nowhere, and it’s been a long stretch since the last time. No matter how good a life, how loved and lauded, how beautiful the dogs are. Sometimes overwhelming sadness and crying crash over me. No reason. Sorry to burden you all but I’m talking to you tonight (it’s 3.35am) to help me out of this hole. Yes, I know it’s selfish but perfume can help equalise me. Writing too. A new order came in today from FragranceNet (not affiliated). In it was an 8ml FragNet decanted Travel Spray. Reasonably affordable and hopefully enough to last me for a good while. I’ve finished a 3ml Surrender To Chance decant of Oud Minerale but am not ready to lay down the kind of money Mr Tom Ford is asking for a full bottle (yet).

Originally a 2017 release, Oud Minerale is now a 2023 Signature Collection reissue with a round bronze bottle. Not sure which I’m writing about because the old bottle is pictured on FragNet but they just may not have updated it.

Oud Minerale by Tom Ford

Oud Minerale by Tom Ford

Tom Ford Beauty gives these featured accords:
Pink Peppercorn, Oud Blend, Styrax, Ambergris Accord, Fir Balsam, Marine Notes

Briny woods and burnt earth open Oud Minerale. Dark, atmospheric and feels like the scent of an art installation set in the forest. Say what you like about Tom Ford but his crew know how to load a fragrance with spectacular opening gambits. It’s so brilliant, shadowed and oily. Like Charlize Theron playing the evil witch in 2012s Snow White and the Huntsman. This is what my imagination tells me her character smells like when returning from being a thousand crows. Maybe it’s the smell of the enchanted forrest?

Once that awe inspiring opening burns off Oud Minerale becomes a lightly salted cold spoon, well like the taste and feeling of it. Stark and frosty. So interesting a turn and for the next few hours that is what hums quietly but noticeable. As we head to dry down the fresh cut pine-ish, resinous undertow takes precedence but the salty twang never leaves.

Oud Minerale by Tom Ford

Unisex but leaning traditional masculine. Longevity is excellent and the ride is really interesting, while still managing to be simple and wearable. Will there be a bottle in my future? Maybe, definitely.

Tonight Oud Minerale got me out of a depression hole. The storm has passed and I’m smelling pretty damn fine.

Hope you are all doing well and thriving,
Would you Oud Minerale by Tom Ford?
Portia xx

 

Saturday Question: Do You Wear Perfumes Every Day?

I negotiated with myself for a while whether it’s an appropriate question for a perfume blog visited only by “hardcore” perfumistas. But my curiosity won.

 

Saturday Question on Undina's Looking Glass

 

Saturday Question #280:

Do You Wear Perfumes Every Day?

Let’s not count special circumstances, such as being sick, visiting someone at a hospital or being stranded on a desert island. But in your regular life, do you still apply perfumes every day?

My Answer

For at least a couple of decades, I wore perfume daily, sometimes changing scents more than once during the day. Had I asked myself this question 2–3 years ago, the answer would have been an emphatic yes – I couldn’t even imagine staying scentless. These days, though… sometimes I go several days in a row without wearing or even testing anything. I don’t fully understand why. I still like perfume in general; I still love at least twenty (but probably more) scents in my collection. And when I do put them on, I enjoy smelling them on me. But more often than not, I experience choice paralysis when it comes to deciding what to wear.

I’ve tried using a predefined list of perfumes for a week or a month, and I know that works. But then I’d miss creating the next list – and end up back where I started.

It wouldn’t be a problem if I simply didn’t want to wear perfume anymore. But I do! And I feel bad when I can’t get organized enough to enjoy all the beautiful scents I’ve accumulated. Each day I skip wearing one feels like a missed opportunity, and it upsets me.

I think I need to reorganize my collection. Sometimes, even when I know exactly what I want to wear, I can’t find it quickly before my workday starts. Maybe I just need to go back to my old habit of choosing a perfume at night, while falling asleep – the way some women plan their outfits for the next day.

 

How about you?

 

Do You Wear Perfumes Every Day?

Ilio by Diptyque

Ilio by Diptyque

Hi ULGers, Ilio by Diptyque was released in 2021. It almost completely passed me by. Recently I saw it at a Diptyque counter and gave it a spritz. Opening was jaw droppingly gorgeous. Sadly, it was completely overwhelmed by other perfume counter scents in the next 10 minutes. I really didn’t feel like we’d had time to bond. So, off to trusty Surrender To Chance and grabbed a decant. I wanted to write a post to tell you about it before finishing the decant.

Ilio by Diptyque 2021

Ilio by Diptyque

These are the featured accords:
Prickly pear, Fig, Iris, Jasmine, Bergamot (Lavender noted in some lists)

Prickly pear has become a huge problem in Australia. Once established it’s almost impossible to remove. We even brought in a specific moth to work as a biological control. Apparently it has worked wonders in certain areas.

The taste is analogous to a near ripe watermelon but a little gritty, according to the internet.

An interesting, floral opening that feels more like real life peony than any of the given notes. Ilio even has the powdery softness of a peony petal. Underneath and making itself known over the first few minutes is a pithy greenery. A bit like the pith of a sweet citrus and the smell after you cut hydrangea flowers, or give them a good pruning at the end of their season. Plus there is a some really dark greenery smell that has a bitter edge, it’s fascinating. Like pulling that thin green bark from a rose branch.

Through the hear a very green and earthy iris that has carroty coolness becomes more pronounced until it takes center stage and every other note creates an uplifting backdrop. For something that seems so simple there’s a lot of story to Ilio.

Dry down is a green amber and some lovely soft white flowers. Yeah, I know. Doesn’t sound regular. It’s not. Even the base is exceptional. Ilio never stops surprising.

Totally unisex. Ilio is refreshing but missing most of the tropes that create that feeling. Longevity is good I’m still smelling the base at 10 hours. Diffusion is excellent for the first hour and settles into a soft pump of fragrance.

Ilio by Diptyque STC

My question to myself is. “Though I’ve loved Ilio and worn it to the dregs of 3ml, will I wear it if I buy a bottle? OR will it sit unopened and unworn for the next 20 years?”. I don’t have a crystal ball but have added Ilio to the top of my To Buy List. It’s so interesting, and smells fabulous, all day.

Sound good to you?
Portia xx

 

Saturday Question: Have You Ever Bought a Perfume from a Surprise Sample?

Smelling perfumes at a store and then getting a sample to decide if we want more, or ordering a sample of a perfume we got curious about, is the regular route new perfumes take to join our collections. But sometimes perfume or beauty orders come with samples we didn’t choose ourselves. This week’s question is about those samples.

 

Saturday Question on Undina's Looking Glass

 

Saturday Question #279:

Have You Ever Bought a Perfume from a Surprise Sample?

Would you have tried it if it hadn’t been sent to you? Do you still have that perfume?

My Answer

I came up with this question earlier this week while unpacking a package from Sephora.

The main reason I order online instead of going to the store just a 10-minutes drive from where I live is that I can choose a couple of samples with any order and get another larger sample with a minimum purchase. Had they made it easy to do the same in store, I would have saved them money on delivery and gone to the mall. But since they don’t, I order online. The samples that I choose are always skincare or makeup. I haven’t done an exact count, but it feels like in one out of two orders they substitute the requested sample with a perfume sample. And I don’t like when that happens: I just don’t know what to do with those mass-market perfumes. I try them when they arrive even though I know that I won’t like them. I don’t. And after that, they just sit in my drawer. Unlike a lotion that I can use on my hands or feet if I don’t want to apply it to my face or a makeup sample that is a one-use packet that I’ll try and forget, there’s no use for perfumes I don’t like. But it’s hard to throw away a full sample.

Mentally going through all the years and samples, I can think of a single perfume that fits that question – a long-discontinued Tiempe Passate by Antonia’s Flowers. As I described in the post My First Niche Perfume: Tiempe Passate by Antonia’s Flowers, I got a sample of this perfume with another purchase at a store that didn’t even carry it. So if it weren’t for that random sample, I might never have tried it. I still have that bottle and wear this perfume from time to time.

Antonias Flowers Tiempe Passate

How about you?

 

Have You Ever Bought a Perfume from a Surprise Sample?

Gilded Lily by Ineke

Gilded Lily by Ineke

Hey Looking Glass-ers, If you’ve been a perfumista for a few years you might remember the days when the whole scentbloggosphere was completely full of the brand Ineke? It was really fabulous. There were all the mass-tige brands vying for attention and a few women also getting us all excited. Brands like Keiko Mecheri, Miller Harris, Annick Goutal and Ineke were all high on my radar and every new release from these crews would be met with widespread interest. Gilded Lily always struck me as a bottle that was delightfully festive. Red glass, golden pickings and black. It was the bottle that caught my eye yesterday when looking for something else. I just looked it up and sadly it has been discontinued to make way for their new Jaipur Chai. Ineke’s perfumes have stayed very affordable at US$145/70ml. Unheard of in the modern day of ridiculous aspirational pricing. They also do an affordable 7 x 1.5ml Discovery Set.

Gilded Lily by Ineke 2010

Gilded Lily by Ineke

Ineke gives these featured accords:
Top: Pineapple, rhubarb, grapefruit, elemi.
Heart: Goldband lily
Base: Patchouli, oakmoss, labdanum

The sweet screech of pineapple and grapefruit opens Gilded Lily, almost cartoonish in its intensity. I’m no perfumer but I think there is also the sparkle of aldehydes running through. The fireworks are quickly damped by smooth, calming, resinous elemi. Suddenly we are in the gilded age of perfumes. Very movie star glamour like a vintage Caron or Dior. Smooth but glittering. The lily plays through here. It’s not a white floral but a does have pieces of that scent profile. I’m going to say it sits halfway between a yellow flowering bulb and iris. Beautiful.

The base is not a typical 1970s chypre but a less dry and resinous amber adventure. A clean patchouli and some earthy woods. Forest-like. Calming. Gilded Lily ends in a peaceful mountain retreat.

Were you a fan? Are you sad to see Gilded Lily go?
Portia xx

 

Saturday Question: What Perfume Would You Wear As A Wedding Guest Today?

I planned to ask this question last week, but since I was traveling for the said occasion, my schedule got too hectic, and I didn’t even open my laptop to publish this SQ. But now I know the answer to my question without any hypothetical guessing.

 

Saturday Question on Undina's Looking Glass

 

Saturday Question #278:

What Perfume Would You Wear As A Wedding Guest Today?

Consider your current weather, what you would wear and any other imaginary circumstances of attending a wedding tomorrow and choose one of your favorites to scent that joyful event.

My Answer

Until the day I started packing for the trip, I was sure that I would be wearing one of my top 3 all-time favorites, Ormonde Jayne Ta’if. But at the last moment, I went with Armani Prive La Femme Bleue – a choice that felt as elegant as my navy-black gown and just as appropriate for the occasion.

I didn’t abandon my beloved Ta’if, though, and wore it to the rehearsal dinner, together with the brick rose/red silk blouse.

Perhaps it wasn’t me choosing perfumes at all, but my outfits whispering their own picks.

NY2025

View from the wedding venue

 

How about you?

 

What Perfume Would You Wear As A Wedding Guest Today?

Hydra Figue by Miller Harris

Hydra Figue by Miller Harris

Hey there ULGers, Back in 2023 my mate Cinnamon from Perfume Posse talked about some new Miller Harris. I’m not sure when or where I got a boxed manufacturers spray sample of Hydra Figue. Maybe it came as a GWP? While going through stuff cleaning up my mess in the perfume room it turned up. YAY!

This from the company: “The scent of the artist’s idyll. Journey, to a Greek Bohemian paradise. A complex woody, citrus and marine fragrance combining the fruit of the fig with sea salt, Greek saffron and upcycled oakwood.”

Hydra Figue by Miller Harris 2023

Hydra Figue by Miller Harris

Miller Harris gives these featured accords:
Top: Bergamot, Saffron Greece, Cardamom, Ginger, Lemon, Ouzo Accord
Heart: Fig, Tuberose, Sea Salt, Sage, Marine Accord, Mirabilis Jalapa
Base: OakWood, Sandalwood, Ambroxan, Velvet Musk

Citrus zest, fig and zingy ginger all lightly salted. So good! A bright burst of glorious sunshine.

Hydra Figue’s heart stays salty fig and becomes enmeshed in a dark, slightly toxic greenery. Stunning, and so far removed from what I expect from the usually safe Miller Harris house. Reminiscent of Mugler Womanity but much less antagonistic. Darker, more interesting and the kind of perfume I could easily imagine the evil witch wearing in Snow White.

The heart lives for hours and gets darker and woodsier. As we head towards dry down there is a definite twist of sweaty humanity underscoring the beautiful woodsy/figgy depths.

How can Hydra Figue not have become a full on stellar fan favourite?

It’s unisex, full on, interesting and has a fabulous life story. I can seriously imagine the beast mode bros falling over themselves to smell this fabulous.

Hydra Figue by Miller Harris

HA! This is so good I just looked it up and bought a bottle.

Probably not for everyone but I’ll be glad to have it.

Salt seems to be having a few years of reprise. I’m so happy for it.
What about you? Does Hydra Figue sound wearable?
Portia xx

Saturday Question: What Are Your Perfumes’ Pronouns?

Both languages I grew up with were inflected and had a three-way noun-class system – or, simply put, gendered. When I started learning English, it took me a while to get used to calling all inanimate objects “it,” unless, of course, we were talking about ships, other vehicles or abstract concepts like Fortune or Justice.

Over the decades, it became second nature, and I stopped even thinking about a pen being “she” or a pencil being “he.” That is, until recently, when I noticed a trend on YouTube beauty channels: more and more often, creators refer to products with “she,” as in “She is gorgeous!” or “Just look how glowy she is!” while talking about lipsticks, eyeshadows or blushes. It still sounds unnatural to me, but what do I know?

 

Saturday Question on Undina's Looking Glass

 

Saturday Question #277:

What Are Your Perfumes’ Pronouns?

When you think about perfumes, what pronoun do you use?

 

My Answer

In my native language, the situation was slightly illogical. The word духи (dukhi), a native Slavic word with deep etymology that referred to women’s perfume, existed only in the plural – and therefore had no grammatical gender. That didn’t stop everyone from understanding that the product was strictly feminine.

The masculine counterpart, одеколон (odekolon), meaning cologne, was grammatically masculine and, unsurprisingly, intended for men. Interestingly, that word was a loan from French (eau de Cologne), adapted phonetically.

Years of talking, writing, and thinking about perfume in English have taught me that fragrances are genderless usage-wise and definitely inanimate grammatically. So for me, even my absolute favorites, the ones I adore and never want to be without, will always be “it” (in every sense of the word).

 

How about you?

 

What Are Your Perfumes’ Pronouns?