Saturday Question: Is Your Perfume Collection Replaceable?

Last January, I asked you, Starting All Over Again: What 5 Perfumes Would You Buy First? Today’s question looks at replacing our collections from a different perspective.

Saturday Question on Undina's Looking Glass

Saturday Question #184:

Is Your Perfume Collection Replaceable?

Let’s assume that you like every last perfume in your collection. We’ll limit this exercise to non-vintage bottles (at the time of purchase; those that became vintage while in your collection might still count). Bottles could be either regular or travel size (including minis), but not decants, regardless of their sizes. Money is not a part of the consideration: if that bottle is being sold, you can buy it (but you cannot “bribe” someone with a million-dollar check to get the bottle they didn’t plan to sell or pay the perfumer to recreate it just for you).

If all of your perfumes were to magically disappear, and you would try to replace every last bottle you currently own, how hard would it be? How many of your current favorites – those that you bought while they were in regular production – have been discontinued or reformulated beyond recognition? Can you still buy them today (either new or used)? The bottles do not have to be identical, and reformulations that you would consider wearing should count towards “replaceable” bottles.

You do not have to count every last bottle – give us your best estimate. Is your collection 50% replaceable? More? Less?

My Answer

Me being me, I ran some calculations in my database. About 23% of the perfumes in my collection had been discontinued. Another 13% (that I know of) have been reformulated significantly, to the extent that I probably wouldn’t want to own them in that version. I know that some others were also reformulated, but I would still wear them. And there’s a bunch where I don’t know whether they’ve changed since I bought them, so for simplicity, I assumed that those haven’t changed significantly.

So, I think that replacing 36% of my collection would be hard to impossible. I estimate that with an effort, I should be able to replace 70-75% of the perfumes I currently have. Before I ran those calculations, I had a feeling that this number would be significantly lower. However, in reality, considering the potential price tag for most of them, I should say that it would be a miracle if, at today’s prices, I could afford to repurchase even 10-15% of everything I collected so far.

How about you?

Is Your Perfume Collection Replaceable?

Saturday Question: What Was Your First Job, Did You Buy Scent?

Hello Fellow Fumies,

At ULG we have a Saturday Question. Everyone gets to chime in with an answer, chat with other responders and it’s a fun event each week. Taking sides never means taking offence and everyone keeps it respectful and light, even though we can sometimes trawl the depths.

The idea is you’ll see it on the weekend or chime in through the week. Hopefully you will come back regularly and see if anyone has responded to your comment and you can reply to them. The aim is to generate real conversation and connection even though we are scattered around the globe.


Just to be clear, it’s Portia hosting today’s Saturday question. Undina is doing stuff and asked me to fill in this week. Can’t wait to read and respond to all your comments. Feel free to chat to each other too. Let’s see how many comments we can accrue.

Saturday Question: What Was Your First Job, Did You Buy Scent?

Ahhhhh! Memories of my teen years, how I came to be who and where and what I am. You all know how much I love discovering things about you all, so here’s a piece of me. Please share a piece of you in the comments.

My Answer:

Even before it was legal for me to work I spent my Thursday nights and Saturdays (after sport) sweeping up hair, making coffees, washing heads and selling tobacco products at a local hairdresser/tobacconist. The one thing I wanted more than anything was financial freedom to choose what I got. It was $small/hour (cash in hand) and at the age of 13 having $small per week PLUS my pocket money from Dad for house chores (which I did soooo grudgingly, what a shit kid i was!) I was the richest kid I knew. The joy of being able to take myself to the cinema or McDonalds (which was my first proper job when I came of working age) without having to beg for money was a big incentive. Having enough to buy my choices in clothes, though Mum enjoyed clothes shopping with me so much that I rarely had to pay.

On the naughty side, by 13 I already looked like an adult so I could buy booze and cigarettes. Being able to buy the people I loved gifts was another amazing thing that I’ve never lost the joy of. So I didn’t buy scent for myself but I did buy it for my Mum a little later on when I was old enough to be a Squirt Bitch at the department store. Those early days she got a soap, some powder with a big puffer and/or lotion from our local chemist (drug store) that would come in a boxed set, boxes were best because easiest to wrap. My Dad was easy, he wore Tabac Original and that always came in a sensible pack of scent, soap on a rope and deodorant.

My Saturday Question to you is:

What Was Your First Job, Did You Buy Scent?

Spice Blend by DIOR

Spice Blend by DIOR

Hey there ULGers, With my recent Vanilla Diorama came a sample of DIOR Spice Blend in its gorgeous box. They have definitely gone down market from the original 8ml miniatures and now we get a 2ml sample but at least it’s now a SPRITZ! YAY! That means we get to smell exactly what the fragrance will smell like as it’s jetted out of our full bottles. So though they aren’t as glam they are better for us perfume peeps to really know what’s coming. Also, 8ml is quite a lot of perfume. 2ml is exactly enough to get me giddy with excitement over a couple of wears and leave me wanting more.

Spice Blend by DIOR 2019

Spice Blend DIOR

Parfumo gives these featured accords:
Bay rum, Ginger, Madagascar pepper, Pink pepper, Cinnamon, Rum absolute

The opening moments of Spice Blend are delightfully boozy with a sharp spicy flare up. I say flare up but in fact the spices are cool and still in their bottles but fragrant and portentous. It’s spicy but not overwhelming. This excitement lasts better than most openings and doesn’t really calm for nearly 30 minutes with only a few changes.

Once we hot the heart are still in a softly spicy place, maybe walking past a spice cart. Now I feel like unnamed resins are making a smooth play that changes the feeling of Spice Blend to a more sophisticated, less dazzle dazzle adventure. The heart stays linear for a while, the next hour or so. At this point still fragrant, done in the very laid back, under the radar gorgeousness of DIOR Prive style. My feeling is that you’ll still stand out but moderately. If someone passes you or spends a moment sitting near you they will be enamoured by Spice Blend. It’s different enough to elicit comment but similar enough not to be obnoxious. It’s at this point that I can smell the cinnamon as plain as day, quite a surprise that it’s taken so long to hoist its flag. It’s a fun moment that I can only really smell/taste when huffing up close and it remains till we head towards dry down.

What I find at the end is a sweet, resinous wash that fades to a better than me scent hours and hours later. For something so low key the longevity is excellent.

Spice Blend by DIOR sample

If you have not got a spicy, booze laden fragrance in your collection then Spice Blend could definitely be the one to fill that niche.

Is Spice Blend lovely? Yes. Beautifully blended? Yes. Does it make me yearn for a bottle? Yes. Are there other fragrances out there that scratch a similar itch? Yes, many, even a few in my collection. Is it so special that I really need to buy it, even in 40ml form? So here is my conundrum: Do I lay down money for something that delights me but in all reality will probably be passed over in favour of others that I’ve loved and worn for years? Or does it eclipse them and I wear Spice Blend over them, relegating old loves to the dreaded “love but don’t reach for” category?

Have you tried Spice Blend?
Portia xx

 

Saturday Question: What Perfumes Would You Take To A Tropical Vacation?

I need a vacation! All my thoughts are about a vacation. So, let’s talk about perfumes on vacations.

Saturday Question on Undina's Looking Glass

Saturday Question #182:

What Perfumes Would You Take To A Tropical Vacation?

Imagine this: tomorrow you’re going for a week-long vacation at some lovely tropical destination. You have checked-in luggage, so you can bring full bottles, travel/mini bottles, decants, or even samples – anything goes (I mean, flies). Which of your perfumes would you bring?

OK, the “vacation” part is theoretical – you might not even like tropical vacations. But the “perfume” part should be real: we’re not thinking about ideal perfumes for that vacation or something that you think would be nice to have and try there. Instead, we are looking at our collections to pick the most appropriate set to bring with us should we get unexpectedly invited on such a vacation tomorrow.

My Answer

As I said, I need a vacation. I need a vacation to wear my perfumes. The combination of different reasons (though nothing too dramatic, in case anyone would be worried) resulted in me skipping wearing perfumes for days. Not because I didn’t want to wear any, but because I didn’t have any energy to spend on figuring out the right scent for the day – and having a “wrong” one felt like an additional insult, so it felt safer not to make any decisions. I still did some testing (with my usual 1 to 10 ratio of “like” to “meh”), but I miss wearing perfumes. And a tropical vacation is a perfect way to address the issue.

It is perfect not only because I enjoy spending time in the tropics (Hawaii, in my case), but also because over the years and trips, I collected a perfect set of perfumes that for me epitomizes Hawaiian vacation.

I know that I mentioned many of these more than once (in each report on my previous vacations and then some). But if even I couldn’t remember all of them without peaking at those posts when, a couple of days ago, I started fantasizing about my tropical perfume wardrobe, I will do it again:

  1. Estee Lauder Bronze Goddess (in the last 15 years, a full bottle accompanied me on each of my visits to Hawaii)
  2. Ormonde Jayne Tiare and Frangipany
  3. Yosh Ginger Ciao
  4. Byredo Pulp and Bal D’Afrique
  5. Parfums DelRae Bois de Paradise
  6. L’Artisan Parfumeur Traversee du Bosphore
  7. Serge Lutens La Dompteuse Encagée
  8. Moroccanoil Brumes du Maroc

One more perfume that is not Hawaii-specific but the one that always travels with me everywhere is Diptyque Volutes – my vSO’s and mine shared perfume for planes (I decant it in a tiny roller bottle, and we use it sparingly not to disturb fellow passengers).

Now the only question is… Do I need the second checked-in suitcase?

Perfumes for a Tropical Vacation

How about you?

 

What Perfumes Would You Take To A Tropical Vacation?

Saturday Question: What Is Your Favorite Perfume Bottle Color?

This week was quite busy, so I’m tired, and nothing serious springs to mind. So, let’s discuss this superficial topic.

Saturday Question on Undina's Looking Glass

Saturday Question #181:

What Is Your Favorite Perfume Bottle Color?

Most of us do not buy perfumes for bottles. But is there any glass color that makes your heart bit a little faster and wish that you’d like the scent hosted in it?

My Answer

I wish I could say “red”: after all, there are extremely beautiful red bottles. And yes, whenever I see the red edition of Chanel No 5, I wish I had bought it when it was available – even though I’m not too fond of that perfume. But I don’t have a single red bottle in my collection.

So, do I have a favorite color? I do! Blue bottles don’t miss to grab my attention every time! If I weren’t restraining myself, I would have collected at least 2-3 more bottles I don’t need (because I don’t like those perfumes). Luckily, there were several perfumes in blue/navy bottles that I loved and welcomed in my collection.

My Blue Bottles

How about you?

What Is Your Favorite Perfume Bottle Color?

Pride by Der Duft

Pride by Der Duft

Hi Ho ULGers, Der Duft is a German brand that seems to be asking some interesting, left of centre perfumers to come work on their fragrances. Pride is by Miguel Matos. The brand is new since 2020 and from what I see started with five scents and has added five more since.

Der Duft Pride was a BIG surprise. I grabbed my 2ml Surrender To Chance decant and spritzed it heavily without even checking the notes list. Don’t know exactly what I was expecting but this sure isn’t it.

Pride by Der Duft 2020

Parfumo gives these featured accords:
Patchouli, Sandalwood, Bergamot, Cashmeran, Jasmine, Moss, Narcissus, Amber, Carrot seed

The Pride opening is earthy, grasslike, head shop patchouli and a happily dark narcissus. It’s thick and molten, but for all its density Pride is surprisingly wearable and non confrontational. Sure, if OG style patchouli is not your thing then you may be overwhelmed for the first minute but for me it is gorgeous and fun.

The heart stays patch focussed but the woods come through with a creamy flourish. They are that very dry sandalwood and vanilla rich amber woods. I’m sure there are bit players I’m missing here but that’s the gist.

Having spent the day wearing Pride, with a lunchtime respritz to relive that ridiculously fab opening, I’m smitten. Dry down is a dark, mossy patchouli amber. Very old school reminiscent but done in a 21st century niche way. I could never imagine a modern designer putting this in a bottle. Pride is just not general public enough,. Maybe one of the more interesting mass-tige brands like D S & Durga or Comme des Garcons but this may even be a bit too raw for them.

Pride by Der Duft

Unisex but a definite lean towards modern masculine. Longevity is excellent and projection good for the first couple of hours. It’s not big but it is persistent and very other. This is the kind of fragrance I imagine a very cool suit wearing, a slightly different cut of fragrance, interesting but not showy. People may not even know why they want to be near you.

Pride is definitely on my next Fragrances & Art order, did you know they do Tax Free for international and have FREE SHIPPING if you order over a very reasonable amount?

Are you feeling my excitement?
Portia x

 

Saturday Question: Do You Ever Wear or Test Unlabeled Perfumes?

With (at least) dozens of perfume bottles and probably hundreds of proper perfume decants and samples, what would possess you to put on an unknown juice?

Saturday Question on Undina's Looking Glass

Saturday Question #180:

Do You Ever Wear or Test Unlabeled Perfumes?

Tell me if that never happened to you, but most of us in our more or less organized collection of non-manufacturer containers come across a decant or vial either without any label or with something illegible due to the previous contact with the content of said container. What is usually the fate of those? Do you dare to put them on your skin again? Do you try to remember or figure out what it was? Or do you relegate them to a slow, evaporative demise in the depths of your collection?

My Answer

I cannot claim that I’m an organized person. Neither am I completely disorganized. Probably, it’s something in between. But when it comes to perfumes, it is almost impossible for me to have some unidentified vial lurking in my drawers, boxes and other convenient places for storing perfumes that I don’t count as my perfume wardrobe. So, most of my vials, sprayers, decants and other thinkable perfume vessels have nice labels – original or those I printed on my label maker.

Yet sometimes… How many times can one genuinely believe that she would remember what she decanted into that generic Nordstrom-provided sample vial, planning to print a label “tomorrow” just to discover a couple of weeks (or months) later that she has no recollection of what it was? Well… Let’s say it happened more often than I would expect from a reasonable and reasonably organized person. Those unnamed and unsung heroes of department store offerings never make it to the skin: not that I make a conscious decision not to try them, but I keep deferring our time together… until one day I discover just faint remnants of the scent in the empty plastic tube.

Recently, though, I discovered an unusual sample without a label: a tube of one of the Guerlein‘s L’Art & La Matière perfumes – one of those branded 4 ml tubes they used to fill at a counter. At some point, it probably came with a paper box with a name written on it, but somehow, it ended up in a box with another perfume from the same line but labeled. These aren’t the same perfumes (both by the scent and color), and I know that I liked it enough to decide to wear it but not enough to buy a bottle. But that is where my memory ends. I’m sure that many years ago when I decided to “consolidate” it into that box with Rose Barbare I had absolutely no doubts that I would remember what it was… I don’t. But it doesn’t really matter: since it has either been discontinued or reformulated now, I don’t need to know what it is. I like the scent, and I’ll wear it until it’s gone.

 

How about you?

Do You Ever Wear or Test Unlabeled Perfumes?

Saturday Question: What Is Your Favorite Local Brick-and-Mortar Perfume Store?

Now that I know how many of my readers perceive the acronym B&M, I’m being cautious and spelling it out.

Saturday Question on Undina's Looking Glass

Saturday Question #179:

What Is Your Favorite Local Brick-and-Mortar Perfume Store?

The question is not about Harrods or Luckyscent (unless you live nearby and visit them at least a couple of times a year). I’m curious about your local “go-to” place. Where do you go to smell something new without paying for it? It doesn’t have to be a niche store, but just any place where you know you’ll try something you haven’t tried before.

Do you ever buy perfumes there?

My Answer

For many years, Barney’s San Francisco was that place for me. They carried many niche brands that weren’t available elsewhere – Serge Lutens, L’Artisan, Le Labo, Frederic Malle and many others. After its closing, Neiman Marcus in San Francisco became my favorite: they didn’t have that many niche brands, but they carried many “boutique” lines for Guerlain and Dior, as well as some other popular brands – Memo, Acqua di Parma, Perris Monte Carlo and others. These are not my favorite brands, so even though the Neiman Marcus store that is closer to me doesn’t carry the same variety of brands, a shorter trip combined with free parking made it a more appealing option.

But this week, I discovered a new favorite: ZGO Perfumery in San Francisco. I knew about that store for years and even bought some samples and Mariage Freres teas from them, but I’ve never visited it before. But earlier this week, I decided to investigate that store when I took a day off to run some errands in San Francisco that couldn’t be done over a weekend.

ZGO Perfumery

I loved it! A welcoming atmosphere, friendly salespeople and a wide selection of niche brands. It was a slow day, and I spent there more than an hour figuring out first what I wanted to smell on paper and then which samples I wanted to buy. I chatted with two sales assistants (not at the same time) – they were, as I said, friendly, knowledgeable and absolutely not pushy. I went through dozens (if not hundreds) of perfume bottles, carefully deciding which ones would get a nozzle sniff, which would make their way onto a paper strip, and which remain in place getting just a glance.

While from their website you can buy any number of samples, in the store they usually allow 3 samples ($5 for a 1 ml spray sample). But an above-mentioned slow day and all that, so I left with 5 samples of perfumes that I liked enough to want to try on my skin (and pay for it). I will do a separate post about them once I spend time wearing each one, but in general, I think it was a successful trip (and the parking, if you can find it, is free, which feels like a special treat when you visit San Francisco). The one that I decided to wear from the tester bottle instead of asking to buy one more sample was Atelier Materi Iris Ebene. It was a big mistake! I liked it a lot. So now I’ll have to get a sample of it anyway!

I rarely buy perfumes from brick-and-mortar stores because I rarely feel the urge to buy something on the spot. And when I know what I want, I usually try to find, if not a deal, then at least a GWP or some other incentive to spend money. But if I am ever on the market for a brand that doesn’t do sales, I will definitely go to ZGO Perfumery.

 

How about you?

What Is Your Favorite Local Brick-and-Mortar Perfume Store?

Vetiver Pamplemousse by Zara

Vetiver Pamplemousse by Zara

Hey Crew, GOSH! It seems so long ago Jin and I were in South Korea. It’s only a couple of months. This year has already been jam packed. Sorry I didn’t get back to writing about Vetiver Pamplemousse EdP quicker. You may remember I wrote about the candle? Well, in Korea on our last night we wandered into a Zara at Seoul Station. coming across the fragrances I asked if they had Vetiver Pamplemousse. Yes, but only the 10ml. Then the SA looked into the computer and found one last 40ml bottle on the other side of town. The shop closes in 40 minutes. HA! Well, we jumped a train, changed trains and ran to the store (about 400m) and arrived with 7 minutes to closing. We were puffing and sweating and laughing. It was excellent fun and took us to a part of town I’d never seen. It had also been gentrified beyond Jin’s wildest dreams. Loads of shopping, eating and living. A really cool part of town.

Not being a new scent it’s probably going to be hard to track Vetiver Pamplemousse down but I promised a review and then never delivered so, um, SOZ. Here it is. Looking at ZARA Australia they still have stock so you might get lucky.

Vetiver Pamplemousse by Zara 2019

Vetiver Pamplemousse Zara

Zara gives these featured accords:
Grapefruit, mandarin, vetiver

Tangy, tart, lip puckeringly bittersweet is man opening impression of the grapefruit/citrus opening. Though it’s sharp it isn’t crazy and the grapefruit settles nicely into a more generic, sweet citrus. The tart doesn’t leave entirely though, keeping it crisp and interesting. As we head into the heart there is also a pithy softness and furriness. So refreshing.

Further into the heart and that citrus becomes those hard boiled Cavendish and Harvey Mixed Fruit Drops. You remember, in the round tins? Just like some of those. It’s such a visceral memory. We used to get those in our Santa sacks and often on long journeys Mum would bring out a pack to shut us up.

My wear gives hardly any of the slightly oily, grassy vetiver that I expect, especially in the open and heart. In Vetiver Pamplemousse it is a support act. If I sniff hard and go really looking it appears but this fragrance is really a citrus affair for the most part.

Vetiver Pamplemousse Zara

As we head for dry down the vetiver does make a bit of a showing. Dry grasses and a little bit twig and torn leaf. An interesting, low key representation of vetiver but not terrible. That sweet citrus and grassiness carry the fragrance quietly after about an hour. If you told me basil was an ingredient and that vegetal musks were involved I’d say that smells about right. The sugariness makes it all feel very 21st century.

This is an easy wear gem. Don’t be expecting to be blown away by their inventiveness. While it’s not a very common fragrance it’s also not a far leap from existing products. The price though, that’s the difference. Longevity and projection are moderate to low but Vetiver Pamplemousse can and could be worn by just about anyone. Simple and smells good.

Do you have a Zara fragrance? Love grapefruit or vetiver?
Portia x

Saturday Question: What Do You Think About Fragrant Functional Products?

When I recently got an email from Luckyscent that highlighted the new BDK‘s creation – a laundry detergent – I thought about doing a post about it. But as I started putting my thoughts “on paper,” I realized I didn’t have enough to stretch it to a full post, so I decided to discuss it with you as a Saturday Question.

Saturday Question on Undina's Looking Glass

Saturday Question #178:

What Do You Think About Fragrant Functional Products?

It’s not about unscented/scent-free products versus scented ones. I’m asking rather about products that smell like perfumes – either existing ones or abstract scents, as with this laundry detergent.

Do you like the idea? Have you used any? Would you like to try any?

A bonus question: What laundry detergent do you use?

My Answer

Almost a decade ago (time flies!) I published a post Know-how [not to]: Freshen up a linen closet, in which I told a story of how using a perfume-soaked envelope (an unfortunate mailing incident) as a linen closet freshener had almost put me off my favorite Le Labo Rose 31. So, from that time, I never even considered using any of my favorite scents for anything other than their direct purpose.

In the case of this laundry detergent by BDK, Eau de Lessive (Laundry Water?), they didn’t cannibalize any of their scents but instead created a unique composition for this product. Top: Lavender, Bergamot from Italy, Lemon from Italy, Yellow mandarin from Japan, Red Thyme, Cardamom from India, Pepper mint, Nutmeg, CO2 of pink berries; heart: Small grain of Paraguay, Blue Ginger, Cassis, White flowers; base: Ambroxan, Vetiver from Haiti, Benzoin of Siam and White Musks.

Not every perfume has that extensive list of notes; this product might smell great. But the idea of having all my laundry to smell of any specific aroma just doesn’t seem appealing. Additionally, a laundry detergent costing about half of what one might splurge on a high-end shampoo seems too extravagant. I could have considered a smaller bottle intended for hand wash (though, I’m not sure I have enough lingerie that I would be regularly washing manually), but a €35/$36 liter of a detergent intended for a washing machine… It makes me think of that DirecTV commercial “Opulence, I has it.”

But what do I know? It is sold out within less than a week and on backorder at Luckyscent. On the positive side, this is one of the perfume-related products that a perfumista will be able to use up.

I prefer laundry detergents without any scent. For a long time, I used Seventh Generation Free & Clear. It didn’t smell of anything. But I had to stop using it because of the smell. The smell of my clothes 3-4 months after washing that was (e.g., if I were to launder something and put it away because of a season change). It seems that detergent stayed on the clothes and started disintegrated after a while. Now I wash my clothes with Tide Free & Gentle. It keeps my laundry scent-free and allows me to perfume my things with whatever scent I choose, whenever I choose.

BDK Eau De Lessive

What Do You Think About Fragrant Functional Products?