Saturday Question: What Was The Last Brand You Discovered?

Initially, I planned to ask about a new brand you discovered, but then I thought that since, with hundreds of brands out there, finding a new brand became less novel than it used to be 10 years ago, we mostly stopped being interested in brands’ stories. So, the question is about the brand that you haven’t tried before – be it a newly hatched or a well-established one.

Saturday Question on Undina's Looking Glass

Saturday Question #187:

What Was The Last Brand You Discovered?

Were you seeking it out or just came across their perfume(s)? Did you like what you tried? Did/will you add anything from that brand to your collection?

My Answer

These days, new (for me) brands rarely cross my path since I rarely visit stores that carry unusual/rare lines. And even when I do, there are so many perfumes from the brands I know that I haven’t tried that I usually do not have any energy left for discovering gems in the rough. Even when I go to high-end department stores, I rarely stop to try any brand I do not recognize: everything seems to be smelling like everything else and not worth engaging in the usual “dances” with an SA (“What type of perfumes do you like?”, “This is our most popular fragrance!”, etc.).

Mind Games attracted me with their bottles. There is something very appealing in chess pieces-themed bottles, though, it’s a dead end for the line since it’s limited by the number of different pieces. Unless, of course, they decide to create perfumes for each piece on the board (though, at this point, they chose not to use a pawn as an inspiration, even for a single perfume).

Our local Neiman Marcus didn’t carry all 10 perfumes in the line, but I tested 6 and even got samples to take home. What do I think about this collection? They are fine. Not good. Not bad. I thought that a couple was more interesting than the others, but in the end, I wasn’t impressed enough even to do a designated post about them. If, at some point, one of the decanters that I follow were to offer Gardez (pepper, spice, jasmine, orris, fruits, leather and wood), I would probably get a decant. The rest – I don’t think I’ll even finish the samples. But if anyone in the US is interested, Scentbird has 5 out of 10 perfumes from this line.

Mind Games Perfumes

How about you?

What Was The Last Brand You Discovered?

Rake n Ruin by BeauFort London

Rake n Ruin by BeauFort London

Hi there ULGers, Rake & Ruin by BeauFort London has been a First in Fragrance decant lying around this apartment for ages, years. It gets picked up and then put back, over and over again. So while I’m doing this New Idea 2023 thunking challenge I finally bit the bullet and sprayed the half that was left all over myself. WOWZERS! It’s so riotously over the top! You must try this fabulous freak.

Rake & Ruin by BeauFort London 2018

Rake & Ruin BeauFort London

Featured accords:
Top: Smoke, Angelica, Gin, Juniper, Sichuan Pepper, Pink Pepper, Licorice, Coriander, Orange, Lemon
Heart: Smoke, Cypress, Pine needles, Castoreum, Cade oil, Labdanum, Costus, Orris, Violet
Base: Smoke, Woody Notes, Ambrarome, Sandalwood

Smoky woods with a side order of peppery blue cheese. So outrageous and good in the Sydney heat.

The heart calms down a little and yes smoke but now it’s BarBQ smoke with some delightfully charring meat and twiggy greenery.

Dry down is BarBQ Shapes. It’s a spicy biscuit in Australia, don’t know if you have them in the world. Drizzled over charred wood, smoke and maybe a little burning tyre.

Rake & Ruin BeauFort London

Sounds ghastly? It’s not.

This is so fabulous. A true freak of fragrance.

Do I want it? Yes

Would I ever wear it? Probably not

HANG ON…. Maybe I would wear it. Do this crew do 10 or 15ml travels?

Rake & Ruin is something you at least need to try. Just for the fun of wearing something so wholly OTT.

Have you? Would you?
Portia xx

Saturday Question: Do You Compliment Others On Their Perfume?

My dear friends and readers, I know I’m slightly behind in responding to your comments. I want you to know that even though I do not always answer in a timely manner, I read all the comments the same day you leave them. And, as a rule, I get to them eventually – so, if you don’t subscribe to notifications, please check back in a week or so.

Saturday Question on Undina's Looking Glass

Saturday Question #186:

Do You Compliment Others On Their Perfume?

Do you tell your friends, relatives or loved ones that you like how they smell? How about co-workers, neighbors and other acquaintances? Do you ever compliment strangers?

My Answer

A short answer would be: Yes.

Not too many of the people I know personally wear perfumes. But whenever they do, I always notice and tell them if I like what I smell (and then sometimes the game “Can you tell what I’m wearing?” ensues).

In the office environment (while we still were coming daily to the same place to work), it was extremely rare to smell anything from co-workers or other people in the same office building. So, whenever I smelled anything, my knee-jerk reaction was to say something nice – just to acknowledge my appreciation of the fact that somebody was applying perfume. I think people react similarly to seeing a bright-colored blouse or statement jewelry piece: they compliment it not necessarily because they like it (and not even to be nice), but because they noticed it, and it was an easy thing to do… And then one day I stopped myself because I realized that I might be encouraging a person to keep wearing perfume I didn’t like. But unlike somebody else’s blouse that might not please you aesthetically but doesn’t really affect you, a scent that you do not like might be quite bothering… From that time, I would compliment someone only if I liked what I smelled and not the idea that I could smell something instead of the usual scentless sterility.

Whenever I smell something that I like on a complete stranger, if the situation permits, I do express my delight. And usually people like it. Annoyingly, on a couple of occasions recently I couldn’t figure out who to compliment: I looked around and even followed a couple of people in a store but didn’t find a person leaving that great sillage. Of course, I was annoyed not because I missed a conversation with a stranger, but because I really wanted to know what they were wearing.

 

How about you?

Do You Compliment Others On Their Perfume?

Saturday Question: What Are Your Favorite Fall Scents?

Fall is filled with many delightful aromasthe earthy smell of fallen leaves, cozy wood smoke, tart smell of ripe apples, warm, comforting fragrances of cinnamon-spiced apple pies, mulled cider, and roasted chestnuts. These combined scents create a harmonious symphony that captures the essence of autumn, making it a season rich in olfactory delights.

Saturday Question on Undina's Looking Glass

Saturday Question #185:

What Are Your Favorite Fall Scents?

What are natural aromas or smells from seasonal food and drinks that makes Autumn especially joyful? Do you like those smells as perfume notes? Do you have any perfumes with those notes? Are there any perfumes that you associate with that time of the year even though they don’t feature any fall-related notes?

My Answer

As a scent, I really like freshly fallen autumnal leaves – dry and slightly dusty rather than wet and decayed. Both the sound and the smell of crumbling leaves under my feet bring undefined nostalgic feelings. But it is not a scent I would like to either wear or have as an ambient scent in my home.

Fall aroma that found its way into my perfume wardrobe is a scent of pears. Unlike it is with many other fruits, pear note in perfumes are rarely dominant. But whatever this element contributes to perfumes, makes me like them. Looking through my database, I realized that I tried and liked at least 20 perfumes with that note (and own some of them). But one that comes to mind first is English Pear & Freesia by Jo Malone. I’ve been wearing it almost since its release in 2010, and I still enjoy it. And now I’m curious to try their new English Pear & Sweet Pea Cologne.

 

How about you?

What Are Your Favorite Fall Scents?

Perfumista by Anatole Lebreton

Perfumista by Anatole Lebreton

Hi there ULGers, Do you remember in 2019/20 first reading or hearing about the audacity of Anatole Lebreton to make a perfume named for us? Perfumista?!? Honestly, the few people I talked to were in agreeance that it would definitely bomb because how could he encapsulate EVERYTHING we would expect from such a title. So I ignored it. Then, a while ago, I saw it on the Surrender To Chance site and was so curious to find out what I’d dismissed so easily. Into the cart it went and made it all the way through checkout with a few other things that piqued my interest. Here it has sat, unloved and forlorn, awaiting the attention of this perfumista. Today is the day. Please come on a journey of discovery with me.

Perfumista by Anatole Lebreton 2019

Perfumista by Anatole Lebreton

The Anatole Lebreton site gives the featured accords:
Top: Pear, Plum, Raspberry
Heart: Bulgarian Rose, Indian Jasmin, Patchouli
Base: Virginy Cerdarwood, Peru Balsam, Musk

The opening is like a vintage chypre. Aldehydic fruity floral, clean and clear as a bell. GOSH! it even has that slightly over ripe fruit and feral backbeat you’d expect from vintage but one that has been kept perfectly. There is even a touch of the hairsprays that make vintage feel so glammed up and ready to hit the town.

The heart is jammy rose with some other florals but I don’t smell jasmine per se, more a bouquet with maybe some bulb flowers, lilac, peony and marigold. The word that keeps popping into my head sniffing the heart is petal-y. There’s a soft, fluffy, powderiness like rubbing flowers against your cheek. Though not a big bombastic scent, Perfumista is quietly noticeable through the heart. That jammy rose also has some earthy greenery as we head towards dry down.

The dry down brings back the fruits (now canned) over a woody, smoothly resinous base. It’s a surprising revival and makes the last couple of hours very sniffable. Get up close and breathe deep. You’ll be amply rewarded.

Perfumista by Anatole Lebreton

 

Well, that was 200% more glorious than expected. A real modern reimagining of a vintage ride for a true perfumista. I do love to be proved wrong and thrilled by a scent. I”ve only worn it three times but right now a bottle is right near the top of my To Buy List. Why am I so late to this brand?

Though anyone could and can wear it Perfumista veers heavily traditional femme. Longevity is good and the first hour, more really, are quite fragrant before softening into a streamlined, still interesting, dry down.

Do you remember when Perfumista launched? Were you intrigued or dismissive?
Portia xx

 

Saturday Question: Is Your Perfume Collection Replaceable?

Last January, I asked you, Starting All Over Again: What 5 Perfumes Would You Buy First? Today’s question looks at replacing our collections from a different perspective.

Saturday Question on Undina's Looking Glass

Saturday Question #184:

Is Your Perfume Collection Replaceable?

Let’s assume that you like every last perfume in your collection. We’ll limit this exercise to non-vintage bottles (at the time of purchase; those that became vintage while in your collection might still count). Bottles could be either regular or travel size (including minis), but not decants, regardless of their sizes. Money is not a part of the consideration: if that bottle is being sold, you can buy it (but you cannot “bribe” someone with a million-dollar check to get the bottle they didn’t plan to sell or pay the perfumer to recreate it just for you).

If all of your perfumes were to magically disappear, and you would try to replace every last bottle you currently own, how hard would it be? How many of your current favorites – those that you bought while they were in regular production – have been discontinued or reformulated beyond recognition? Can you still buy them today (either new or used)? The bottles do not have to be identical, and reformulations that you would consider wearing should count towards “replaceable” bottles.

You do not have to count every last bottle – give us your best estimate. Is your collection 50% replaceable? More? Less?

My Answer

Me being me, I ran some calculations in my database. About 23% of the perfumes in my collection had been discontinued. Another 13% (that I know of) have been reformulated significantly, to the extent that I probably wouldn’t want to own them in that version. I know that some others were also reformulated, but I would still wear them. And there’s a bunch where I don’t know whether they’ve changed since I bought them, so for simplicity, I assumed that those haven’t changed significantly.

So, I think that replacing 36% of my collection would be hard to impossible. I estimate that with an effort, I should be able to replace 70-75% of the perfumes I currently have. Before I ran those calculations, I had a feeling that this number would be significantly lower. However, in reality, considering the potential price tag for most of them, I should say that it would be a miracle if, at today’s prices, I could afford to repurchase even 10-15% of everything I collected so far.

How about you?

Is Your Perfume Collection Replaceable?

Saturday Question: What Was Your First Job, Did You Buy Scent?

Hello Fellow Fumies,

At ULG we have a Saturday Question. Everyone gets to chime in with an answer, chat with other responders and it’s a fun event each week. Taking sides never means taking offence and everyone keeps it respectful and light, even though we can sometimes trawl the depths.

The idea is you’ll see it on the weekend or chime in through the week. Hopefully you will come back regularly and see if anyone has responded to your comment and you can reply to them. The aim is to generate real conversation and connection even though we are scattered around the globe.


Just to be clear, it’s Portia hosting today’s Saturday question. Undina is doing stuff and asked me to fill in this week. Can’t wait to read and respond to all your comments. Feel free to chat to each other too. Let’s see how many comments we can accrue.

Saturday Question: What Was Your First Job, Did You Buy Scent?

Ahhhhh! Memories of my teen years, how I came to be who and where and what I am. You all know how much I love discovering things about you all, so here’s a piece of me. Please share a piece of you in the comments.

My Answer:

Even before it was legal for me to work I spent my Thursday nights and Saturdays (after sport) sweeping up hair, making coffees, washing heads and selling tobacco products at a local hairdresser/tobacconist. The one thing I wanted more than anything was financial freedom to choose what I got. It was $small/hour (cash in hand) and at the age of 13 having $small per week PLUS my pocket money from Dad for house chores (which I did soooo grudgingly, what a shit kid i was!) I was the richest kid I knew. The joy of being able to take myself to the cinema or McDonalds (which was my first proper job when I came of working age) without having to beg for money was a big incentive. Having enough to buy my choices in clothes, though Mum enjoyed clothes shopping with me so much that I rarely had to pay.

On the naughty side, by 13 I already looked like an adult so I could buy booze and cigarettes. Being able to buy the people I loved gifts was another amazing thing that I’ve never lost the joy of. So I didn’t buy scent for myself but I did buy it for my Mum a little later on when I was old enough to be a Squirt Bitch at the department store. Those early days she got a soap, some powder with a big puffer and/or lotion from our local chemist (drug store) that would come in a boxed set, boxes were best because easiest to wrap. My Dad was easy, he wore Tabac Original and that always came in a sensible pack of scent, soap on a rope and deodorant.

My Saturday Question to you is:

What Was Your First Job, Did You Buy Scent?

Spice Blend by DIOR

Spice Blend by DIOR

Hey there ULGers, With my recent Vanilla Diorama came a sample of DIOR Spice Blend in its gorgeous box. They have definitely gone down market from the original 8ml miniatures and now we get a 2ml sample but at least it’s now a SPRITZ! YAY! That means we get to smell exactly what the fragrance will smell like as it’s jetted out of our full bottles. So though they aren’t as glam they are better for us perfume peeps to really know what’s coming. Also, 8ml is quite a lot of perfume. 2ml is exactly enough to get me giddy with excitement over a couple of wears and leave me wanting more.

Spice Blend by DIOR 2019

Spice Blend DIOR

Parfumo gives these featured accords:
Bay rum, Ginger, Madagascar pepper, Pink pepper, Cinnamon, Rum absolute

The opening moments of Spice Blend are delightfully boozy with a sharp spicy flare up. I say flare up but in fact the spices are cool and still in their bottles but fragrant and portentous. It’s spicy but not overwhelming. This excitement lasts better than most openings and doesn’t really calm for nearly 30 minutes with only a few changes.

Once we hot the heart are still in a softly spicy place, maybe walking past a spice cart. Now I feel like unnamed resins are making a smooth play that changes the feeling of Spice Blend to a more sophisticated, less dazzle dazzle adventure. The heart stays linear for a while, the next hour or so. At this point still fragrant, done in the very laid back, under the radar gorgeousness of DIOR Prive style. My feeling is that you’ll still stand out but moderately. If someone passes you or spends a moment sitting near you they will be enamoured by Spice Blend. It’s different enough to elicit comment but similar enough not to be obnoxious. It’s at this point that I can smell the cinnamon as plain as day, quite a surprise that it’s taken so long to hoist its flag. It’s a fun moment that I can only really smell/taste when huffing up close and it remains till we head towards dry down.

What I find at the end is a sweet, resinous wash that fades to a better than me scent hours and hours later. For something so low key the longevity is excellent.

Spice Blend by DIOR sample

If you have not got a spicy, booze laden fragrance in your collection then Spice Blend could definitely be the one to fill that niche.

Is Spice Blend lovely? Yes. Beautifully blended? Yes. Does it make me yearn for a bottle? Yes. Are there other fragrances out there that scratch a similar itch? Yes, many, even a few in my collection. Is it so special that I really need to buy it, even in 40ml form? So here is my conundrum: Do I lay down money for something that delights me but in all reality will probably be passed over in favour of others that I’ve loved and worn for years? Or does it eclipse them and I wear Spice Blend over them, relegating old loves to the dreaded “love but don’t reach for” category?

Have you tried Spice Blend?
Portia xx

 

Saturday Question: What Perfumes Would You Take To A Tropical Vacation?

I need a vacation! All my thoughts are about a vacation. So, let’s talk about perfumes on vacations.

Saturday Question on Undina's Looking Glass

Saturday Question #182:

What Perfumes Would You Take To A Tropical Vacation?

Imagine this: tomorrow you’re going for a week-long vacation at some lovely tropical destination. You have checked-in luggage, so you can bring full bottles, travel/mini bottles, decants, or even samples – anything goes (I mean, flies). Which of your perfumes would you bring?

OK, the “vacation” part is theoretical – you might not even like tropical vacations. But the “perfume” part should be real: we’re not thinking about ideal perfumes for that vacation or something that you think would be nice to have and try there. Instead, we are looking at our collections to pick the most appropriate set to bring with us should we get unexpectedly invited on such a vacation tomorrow.

My Answer

As I said, I need a vacation. I need a vacation to wear my perfumes. The combination of different reasons (though nothing too dramatic, in case anyone would be worried) resulted in me skipping wearing perfumes for days. Not because I didn’t want to wear any, but because I didn’t have any energy to spend on figuring out the right scent for the day – and having a “wrong” one felt like an additional insult, so it felt safer not to make any decisions. I still did some testing (with my usual 1 to 10 ratio of “like” to “meh”), but I miss wearing perfumes. And a tropical vacation is a perfect way to address the issue.

It is perfect not only because I enjoy spending time in the tropics (Hawaii, in my case), but also because over the years and trips, I collected a perfect set of perfumes that for me epitomizes Hawaiian vacation.

I know that I mentioned many of these more than once (in each report on my previous vacations and then some). But if even I couldn’t remember all of them without peaking at those posts when, a couple of days ago, I started fantasizing about my tropical perfume wardrobe, I will do it again:

  1. Estee Lauder Bronze Goddess (in the last 15 years, a full bottle accompanied me on each of my visits to Hawaii)
  2. Ormonde Jayne Tiare and Frangipany
  3. Yosh Ginger Ciao
  4. Byredo Pulp and Bal D’Afrique
  5. Parfums DelRae Bois de Paradise
  6. L’Artisan Parfumeur Traversee du Bosphore
  7. Serge Lutens La Dompteuse Encagée
  8. Moroccanoil Brumes du Maroc

One more perfume that is not Hawaii-specific but the one that always travels with me everywhere is Diptyque Volutes – my vSO’s and mine shared perfume for planes (I decant it in a tiny roller bottle, and we use it sparingly not to disturb fellow passengers).

Now the only question is… Do I need the second checked-in suitcase?

Perfumes for a Tropical Vacation

How about you?

 

What Perfumes Would You Take To A Tropical Vacation?

Saturday Question: What Is Your Favorite Perfume Bottle Color?

This week was quite busy, so I’m tired, and nothing serious springs to mind. So, let’s discuss this superficial topic.

Saturday Question on Undina's Looking Glass

Saturday Question #181:

What Is Your Favorite Perfume Bottle Color?

Most of us do not buy perfumes for bottles. But is there any glass color that makes your heart bit a little faster and wish that you’d like the scent hosted in it?

My Answer

I wish I could say “red”: after all, there are extremely beautiful red bottles. And yes, whenever I see the red edition of Chanel No 5, I wish I had bought it when it was available – even though I’m not too fond of that perfume. But I don’t have a single red bottle in my collection.

So, do I have a favorite color? I do! Blue bottles don’t miss to grab my attention every time! If I weren’t restraining myself, I would have collected at least 2-3 more bottles I don’t need (because I don’t like those perfumes). Luckily, there were several perfumes in blue/navy bottles that I loved and welcomed in my collection.

My Blue Bottles

How about you?

What Is Your Favorite Perfume Bottle Color?