Saturday Question: Do You “Blind Buy” Perfumes?

In the comments to the last week’s SQ post, several participants mentioned their intent to stop buying perfumes unsniffed. These days I rarely hear from perfumistas about regular “buys” – let alone blind ones. So, let’s talk.

Saturday Question on Undina's Looking Glass

Saturday Question #198:

Do You “Blind Buy” Perfumes?

Have you ever? If yes, how successful were those purchases?

My Answer

The first perfume, Chanel №19 Poudré, I bought unsniffed soon after its launch, before it became available in the US. As I wrote back then:

Do I regret my unsniffed purchase? I’m not sure. Yes and no. I will be using it from time to time, I do not dislike it. But I think should I have tested it in the store I would have bought Chanel №19 EdT instead. But it’s definitely not the worst outcome.

Since then, I did buy No 19 EdT (and extrait as well), and I do wear №19 Poudré from time to time. I would have been probably fine without it in my collection, but I do not plan to get rid of it either.

The second blind buy was a much bigger leap: I got the limited edition Armani Privé La Femme Bleue. I knew I wouldn’t be able to try it (it was a very limited edition), and I wanted it. So I got it with a help from a perfumista in the UK. Looking back, I think it was an insane idea: it was too expensive for that type of a gamble, and even back then my success rate with perfumes I tested wasn’t that great. I could afford it, but I shouldn’t have done it.

But it looks like I learned my lesson: even though I absolutely love La Femme Bleue, and I am glad that I bought it, in 12 years since then I have not bought a single bottle of perfume without testing it first.

Armani La Femme Bleue

How about you?

Do You “Blind Buy” Perfumes?

Saturday Question: Are You Planning Any Perfume-related Projects This Year?

A brand-new year. Theoretically, January 1st isn’t much different from December 31st. But we tend to time new activities with other “beginnings,” and the beginning of a year is one of everybody’s favorite milestones for trying something different or starting new habits. We just read about Portia’s going back to the FB wardrobe (after a year of “thunking’ samples and decants). It made me curious about what the rest of my readers have in store for 2024.

Saturday Question on Undina's Looking Glass

Saturday Question #197:

Are You Planning Any Perfume-related Projects This Year?

I don’t want to call them “NY resolutions,” since most people have bad connotation with that term and tend to avoid making those (though, if you did make any perfume-related resolutions, please share). But maybe you have a vision about either your perfume usage, sampling approaches or purchasing plans. Or maybe you decided to study perfume-making. Or want to order a bespoke perfume. Or… Whatever plans that involve our shared hobby you have, tell us more about them!

My Answer

As I told you a month ago, I reused the 2022 Whittard of Chelsea Tea Advent Calendar box for a self-made perfume advent calendar. It was a total success! I didn’t have to spend any time on a daily basis trying to decide what to wear. It was so liberating! I switch to a different perfume a couple of times during the month, but in general I gratefully followed the random assignment of the SOTD from the numbered box. So, now I am going to repeat the same experiment for this month (and the next, and the next, if it still works). I skipped the first 5 days of January because I had perfumes I wanted to wear, but now I plan to repeat that exercise with choosing 35-40 perfumes I think fit this month and my mood and randomly placing them in the numbered boxes. I will wear perfumes designated for each day, leaving myself an option to choose something else if I do not feel like wearing the one from the calendar.Rusty and Whittard of Chelsea Tea Advent CalendarOther than that, this year I plan to stick to my “low-buy.” I will be getting some samples (it is hard to have a perfume blog without it), but unless I really love some perfume (or finish a decant and want more), I plan to stay away from FB purchases.

 

How about you?

Are You Planning Any Perfume-related Projects This Year?

Going Back to my Full Bottle Wardrobe

Going Back to my Full Bottle Wardrobe

Hey there ULGers, Welcome to 2024. Hoping it’s a safe, prosperous, fun, comfortable and fragrant year ahead for us all, maybe with a side order of delightfully preposterous. What are the three things we are meant to wish each other? Health, Wealth and Contentment! I wish them for you, and for us.

Welcome to 2024

Maybe you know, last year I tried to scale back my perfume samples and decants. I’m still to do a final tally but in my mind it sits at around 300 thunks for the year. While that sounds like a lot, and I have emptied a few small boxes of them, it also feels like it hardly made a dent. Compounded by my continued purchasing. Yeah, it’s clearly an illness. Anyway, now I’m free to roam the perfume wardrobe again and it is daunting! I want to wear everything at once, yet curiously I’m also so overwhelmed that going through the cupboards and remembering what I have is too much. So I’m wearing the things I can see. There’s the grab tray, actually in my wardrobe. Also, all around my sewing machine and desk there are a bunch of bottles that are either new or awaiting reincorporation into the cupboards. So that’s where I’ve been spritzing from.

Going Back to my Full Bottle Wardrobe

Going Back to my Full Bottle Wardrobe

There also seems to be a gold theme running through my spritz selection so far in 2024.

Aqua Allegoria Neroli Vetiver by Guerlain

Yes, this got the gong for New Years Eve and so it was my first fragrance for 2024 too. I love its sweet juicy opening and smooth white floral heart made extra fresh and green by a dry vetiver, all over a lovely laundry musk base. Jin and I had a VERY lazy night. We had duck Korean table BarBQ at home with all the side dishes and some pork chipolatas for extras. While we were eating one of our besties Phil dropped in on his way home from family and that was really nice. Then we lay around the couch with Paris the greyhound watching both the Exotic Marigold Hotel films back to back. After midnight I took Paris out for a walk and then we hit the hay. VERY chill NYE.

Soleil Brulant by Tom Ford

This was a gift from one of my dearest, Ainslie Walker: Scentsmith. It’s a honeyed white floral with resinous amber base but there is also this delightfully strange greenery. It’s leaning bitter and astringent and that creates this alluring contrapuntal effect. Also unusual for a Tom Ford it isn’t a top heavy beauty that crumbles to banality in 30 minutes. It lasts all day and has some interesting sideways movements. I’m not sure why this hasn’t become one of the most talked about fragrances of the 2020s. The first morning of 2024 dawned cool and cloudy so this was a lovely rich choice.

Montana femme by Claude Montana

This bloody bottle doesn’t fit anywhere in the cupboards so is constantly out. the pic doesn’t show it well but they’re over 1/3 gone. A full tilt hark back to the days of perfumey perfumes. An aldehydic floral top and sweet woodsy amber base. Not for the faint of heart and smalls bloody fabulous. It really does smell like shoulder pads and jewel bright peplums with big hair. It’s beautiful in the cold weather but in the humidity and heat of Sydney summer it blooms even more gorgeously. If only it came in a less cool and annoying bottle.

 

So how have you spritzed in the new year?
Portia xx

Happy New 2024 Year!

Dear friends and readers,

I’m glad I have this blog, which allows me to reach all of you to wish you the happiest new year.

For all of you who are content with what happened in 2023, I wish that 2024 would be at least as good. And for those who struggled, I hope 2024 will be kinder.

I hope to see you around next year.

Saturday Question: What Perfumes Did You Wear The Most Often in 2023?

Since this year I tried less than 10 new releases, a Top N Perfumes of 2023 is out of question. From your responses to several of SQs, it looks like many of you are in a similar situation. So, let’s talk about our existing collections instead.

Saturday Question on Undina's Looking Glass

Saturday Question #196:

What Perfumes Did You Wear The Most Often in 2023?

I realize that many of you do not keep statistics, so the question is more about your perception. If you don’t know, tell us which of your favorites you think you wore the most. Name one, three, five – whatever you can think of.

My Answer

Knowing that many of my readers do not record their perfume use, I decided to guess my most worn perfumes. I came up with 7 perfumes. After that I ran a query in my database to find top 5 perfumes I wore in 2023. My guess was correct: the top 5 were among those that I selected initially:

  • Ormonde Jayne Ta’if
  • Giorgio Armani La Femme Bleue
  • Amouage Dia
  • Lancome Climat
  • Amouage Ubar

I am pleased with this result because in the beginning of the year I was thinking about not keeping my most favorite perfumes just for the most festive occasions. In total, I wore my top 5 perfumes for the whole month.

How about you?

What Perfumes Did You Wear The Most Often in 2023?

Saturday Question: What Is Your Favorite Alcoholic Drink Smell?

With one of the “big” holidays approaching, even if Christmas isn’t “your” holiday, it’s hard not to catch at least some festive vibes. So I decided to come up with a question that would somewhat cover both celebrations (in general) and our mutual hobby.

Saturday Question on Undina's Looking Glass

Saturday Question #195:

What Is Your Favorite Alcoholic Drink Smell?

Regardless of whether you actually drink alcohol (and that particular drink) or not, you might still like how it smells. Would you like to have it in a perfume form? Do you have perfume with such a smell or note in your collection? Do you like it as a drink?

A bonus question for those who celebrate: what perfume will you wear to the main celebratory meal?

My Answer

I find it slightly ironic that periodically after I come up with a question for an SQ post, it takes me a while to figure out my answer. This question was one of those.

I realized that I like many scents related to alcoholic beverages. I’m not sure that I would want to smell like each of them, but I find at least several pleasant enough to be worth making them into perfume.

While I can’t choose the most favorite scent, let me pick one of them. Cognac. I realize that there are many different smells, and my choice is quite generic. But, on the other hand, it’s not more generic than “rose” or “leather.” So, cognac it is!

I have a perfume that is supposed to have this note, but I don’t think it really smells like that – so, I’ll leave it for the designated post I’ll do soon. But I tried another perfume that for my nose has a bouquet that reminds me of the scent I like in cognac. Frapin 1270. I used up my sample and still think I want more. So, I will get a travel bottle of it eventually. I like to have a several-sips-worth pour of a good cognac now and then, but it calls for a special state of mind, I never drink it casually.

I don’t know yet what perfume I’ll wear on Christmas Eve when we go to our friends’ house. It’s not because I haven’t decided yet but because I randomly chose one of my all-time favorites when creating this year’s perfume Advent Calendar, and I don’t know yet what it was.

Rusty and Cognac

How about you?

What Is Your Favorite Alcoholic Drink Smell?

Wedding in Slovakia 2023

Hey ULGers, The base reason for our last enormous holiday in November and December was the celebration of Jin’s older brother Jinki’s marriage to his gorgeous new Slovakian bride Andrea. Yes, a Wedding in Slovakia. Jinki has lived there for about 16 years with his first family working for the Korean car companies.

On our way to Europe we grabbed Jin’s Mum, Dad and Aunty and took them for their first European adventure. Jin being who he is couldn’t just take them for the wedding. He decided that if they are coming to Europe they need to see more than just the mountains of Slovakia. So a plan was hatched. We’d hire a people mover from our landing city Vienna and give the crew a tour of a few of our favourite parts nearby. This way we could really see the beauty of Europe and all have stories that will last a lifetime. It couldn’t be too extravagant, there are finite funds. So, two nights in Vienna, two in Prague, three in mountainous Zilina near the Polish border for the wedding, two in Budapest and then back to Vienna to send the family home. It was a big task, took nearly a year of preparation. All put together by Jin, dealing with factions, personalities, wants and needs of all five big, strong personalities.

Here is a mainly photo story of our adventures.

Wedding in Slovakia 2023

Collecting the Family

When flying Korean Air from Sydney to Europe the flights don’t match up so they give you a night in a 5* hotel with breakfast and coach transfers to and from the airport. It’s a very civilised way to travel, we arrive so much more relaxed and refreshed. We were lucky enough to get a 4 seat row to ourselves on the first leg.

Our first stop when arriving in South Korea is Lotteria at the airport. A Bulgogi Burger for Jin and Fried Cheesesticks for me.

Jin and I took a wander to a new-ish casino near Incheon with dozens of very Insta moments created to lure gamblers. They even had a Yayoi Kasuma very tall dot pumpkin in their stairwell.

Mum, Dad and Aunty met us at Incheon Airport next morning and we took them into the lounge. Their first time doing that too.

Vienna, Austria

Arriving in Vienna Jin grabbed the car and we moved into our AirBnB. We took the crew to St Stephen’s cathedral and a wander around the area. We lit candles for all our friends and family (yes, you included), wishing them health, wealth and contentment.

Then were met at 1794 opened Cafe Mozart by Jin’s older brother Jinki and his gorgeous bride to be Andrea. Yes, I know it’s expensive and not the coolest cafe in Vienna but its old world charm, view of the Albertina and the impeccably dressed waiters are always a sure fire hit. Did you know Graham Greene wrote The Third Man there? It’s the perfect place to make some happy memories.
We also did the Sisi City Palace tour.

Next day we were off to Shonbrunn. The golden castle just outside Vienna.

Jin and I had decided a full night at the opera, ballet or symphony in the Vienna Stat Opera would be lost on the crew so we would take them to one of the tourist concerts. They’re much shorter, really well known pieces, usually have a couple a couple of singers and are set in gorgeous crumbling old palaces or churches. It was definitely the right choice. Jetlag hit Mum and she fell asleep in the second piece.

Breakfast at the AirBnB.

Every place we visit they must try the Korean food. It’s always just a little different but a nice reminder of home.

Prague, Czech Republic

In the car the autumn foliage was breathtaking. Sadly my photographic skills are not up to the task of capturing such majesty.

The legendary Charles Bridge at sunset had the family swooning.

When Jin and I can’t sleep we get dressed and go wandering. Here we are in 2am Prague, seeing all the beautiful things without the pesky tourists.

Sorry, I didn’t take a picture of the famous clock this trip. Here’s as close as I got.

 

Though we didn’t go inside the beautifully Mucha decorated hall we did take the family to the adjacent cafe with its sweeping roof and lavish deco light fittings. A quiet boozy bevy and cake. This place really impressed them.

I feel like we didn’t show the family enough of Prague. Not one museum or gallery. I know they have zero interest and it would be wasted but still, life is so much better with memories of the extraordinary.
Honestly, though I know they loved the adventure and will talk about it for decades, I really think they would have been just as happy with us in their kitchen at home eating, talking and laughing.

Zilina, Slovakia

Here we are for the main event. The wedding of Jinki and Andrea.

They have put us all up in the wedding reception venue. It’s a gorgeous old 1600s home recreated as a hotel and reception centre with a lovely original chapel on the grounds.

First night was a welcome banquet for family. Our friends Rocco and Vera, who moved to London this year, popped over so I would have some English speaking buddies. The whole family made them feel like they were our newest relatives. It was awesome.

Andrea chose to wear the traditional Korean dress, the Hanbok, in Slovakian pure white. Jin and I ordered and had it made from South Korea earlier in the year, then it was sent to Slovakia in September.

Jin was best man and made a lovely speech in English and Korean.

This family can dance the night away.

Andrea and Jinkin had a Photo Booth. These are my two favourite pics from the dozens we were involved in. Such and excellent idea.

Farewells are hard. This is the Chapel attached to the house. There were hugs and smiles and plenty of tears. Aren’t they a gorgeous couple? We wish them decades of comfortable living.

Budapest

 

Saturday Question: How Do You Learn About New Perfume Releases?

We all mentioned more than once that we do not need more perfumes and that there are too many brands and perfumes to keep track. But since we’re still in this hobby, I assume somehow we come across information about new releases or perfumes new to us.

Saturday Question on Undina's Looking Glass

Saturday Question #194:

How Do You Learn About New Perfume Releases?

Do you read about them on blogs? Do you watch YouTube videos? Come across them on Instagram? Get newsletters? Visit stores? Some other way?

 Bonus question: what was the last new perfume you learned about?

My Answer

Blogs used to be my main source of information. Recently, less and less people write about perfumes, so my sources of information is evenly spread between periodic visits to NST, direct emails from several brands I follow, random posts on Instagram and rare shopping (well, browsing) trips to Neiman Marcus.

The last new perfume I learned about was new (old) perfumes duo Amouage launched for their 40th anniversary – Cristal & Gold. I saw posts on Instagram. Sounds and looks great. But at $1,950 for 50 ml I will admire it from afar.

How about you?

How Do You Learn About New Perfume Releases?

Saturday Question: How Many People That You Know IRL Wear Perfumes?

Remembering the B&M fiasco, just to be on the safe side, IRL = “in real life” (as opposite to “on Internet,” or “online”).

 

Saturday Question on Undina's Looking Glass

 

Saturday Question #193:

How Many People That You Know in IRL Wear Perfumes?

Perfumistas only count if you know them independently from the common hobby. Family, friends, coworkers, neighbors and other “civilians” are the subject of this SQ.

My Answer

My parents and grandparents on both sides wore perfumes. My vSO from time to time allows me to spray him with perfume I choose from his collection, but I’m not sure if he would do it without my initiative. I could remember about 10 friends and 3-4 co-workers who were noticed wearing perfumes from time to time, but just one who would do it daily.

All-in-all, before I started thinking about it, I didn’t realize how limited my RL’s perfume circle was! It makes me especially appreciative of all of you who come here every week to share our perfumed loves, likes and nemeses. And adore Rusty.

Rusty

How about you?

 

How Many People That You Know in IRL Wear Perfumes?

Trastevere by Pantheon Roma

Trastevere by Pantheon Roma

Hey there Crew, Trastevere by Pantheon Roma was a blind buy decant from Surrender To Chance a while ago, so long that I don’t remember buying it. On looking it up it was only early 2022. Anyway it got an early spritz and then put in the already full to overflowing Must Try This Again box. So now I’m going through that box and there are SO MANY good things hiding in it. Many of which ring no bells in my memory. Knowing in the Northern Hemisphere it’s starting to get VERY chill up there about now I thought something cozy might just hit the spot. I can also imagine this being a perfect Holiday Season gift to yourself.

Oh, and that bottle looks bloody gorgeous too. That’s the 100ml bottle, the 50ml is clear glass and very squat.

Trastevere by Pantheon Roma 2015

Trastevere Pantheon Roma bottle

Pantheon Roma gives these featured accords:
Top: Vanilla, Licorice
Heart: Vanilla, Caramel, Jasmine
Base:  Vanilla, Davana, Chestnut Cream

They also write this: It is the evocation of when, in 1500, the district of Trastevere it was considered “the oven of Rome” and was teeming with bakeries and young girls. Let’s imagine one walking slowly through the narrow streets of the neighborhood, and the scents of sweets and bread come out from the small windows. Warm, gourmand olfactory construction: it moves around the tones of Davana (Artemisia Pallens), whose taste characteristics of licorice and coffee are enhanced here by tones of chestnuts and vanilla. A truly extraordinary jasmine accompanies the bouquet.

OM G! Cookies, and licorice all sorts. Trastevere opens like them exactly. It’s spooky and fabulous.

Not long before the caramel makes its presence known, smelling just like a Worther’s tastes. I’m smiling from ear to ear. This is ALL my favourite snack foods in a fragrance. YUMMO!

All that happened in the first couple of minutes. Trastevere’s opening is amazing and delightful but TBH it’s not how I want to smell through a day.

Here’s the cool thing. At about the 15 minute mark the direct correlation to lollies softens. Yes, still very vanilla, a little custardy, but much more fine fragrance smelling. You will still get your gourmand on but with much less chance of nasal diabetes. Trastevere becomes a very elegant amber with gourmand overtones. Beautiful, wearable and dead sexy.

Trastevere by Pantheon Roma 2015

Leaning seriously traditional feminine but wearing Trastevere was lovely for me. No worries, I love the idea of fragrantly messing with the binary. Longevity and projection are moderate plus.

Though not a new fragrance, and already available at the discounters, I thought you might like to know of something that I’ve not seen much chatter about,
Sound good?
Portia xx