Saturday Question: Do You Have “Energizer Bunny” Perfumes In Your Collection?

A couple of SQs ago, alytike wrote about Radical Rose by Matiere Premiere: “The opening was a gorgeous plush rose vanilla. […] The spearmint chewing gum joined the party & these 3 notes stayed for days! I mean scrubbing & multiple baths/ showers. It just didn’t know when to quit!” And it reminded me of that commercial for the Energizer Bunny that keeps going and going and going…

Saturday Question on Undina's Looking Glass

Saturday Question #190:

Do You Have “Energizer Bunny” Perfumes In Your Collection?

It doesn’t matter whether you appreciate their tenacity or get tired of them—name the heroes (or culprits?)?

My Answer

Tauer Perfume’s L’Air du desert marocain, which I like, is so potent and tenacious that I have to decant it into a dab vial to apply just a tiny amount; otherwise, it overwhelms me. I think that this is how it should be worn. Or diluted to the EdT strength.

How about you?

Do You Have “Energizer Bunny” Perfumes In Your Collection?

In The Search Of The Perfect Mango

It has been a while since I posted anything in this series. Mostly because I stopped testing perfumes or collecting samples by specific note. But I just happen to accumulate several perfumes with (supposedly) prominent mango note, so I decided to resurrect the topic.

Mango is my favorite fruit. I read that there are several hundreds of different cultivars. Of course, I haven’t tried even a tenth of them, but among those I’ve tried, the best were the mangos I ate in Hawaii. I don’t know the names of those varieties since we bought them at farmers’ markets where they were sold as “mango” – that’s it. But they were fantastic!

Hawaii Mango

* * *

As I was selecting perfumes for my trip to Hawaii at the end of September, I was licking my lips thinking of the mangos I would be eating soon and picturing setups I’d use to take photos of my latest mango-centric perfume, Mango Thai Lime by Jo Loves.

I don’t know how this year was different from previous times we vacationed there, but for whatever reason we didn’t see any mangos at the farmers markets we visited. We managed to find two ripened local mangos at a grocery shop on the last day on the island. We ate them at the airport before going into the departure zone (it is not allowed to bring any fruits or vegetables from Hawaii to the mainland), so no photos happened that day. What about the perfume?

Mango Thai Lime (Notes: mango, lime, black pepper, mint, freesia, vetiver and thyme) starts with a burst of juicy mango, sweetness of which is calmed down by the astringent lime. Fruits are realistic but perfume-y enough to serve as a personal scent. I liked it and enjoyed wearing it, but it becomes a whisper quickly and then goes into nothing within an hour. I will gladly wear the decant I got with my SceentBird subscription, but I won’t be adding a bottle to my collection.

Jo Loves Mango Lime

* * *

The second-best is Keitt mango. The interesting fact is that they stay green even when they are perfectly ripe. In California, they are usually available for a month or two in August-September. I always look forward to getting them. As a consolation prize, we were still able to buy several Keitt mangos after returning from the vacation.

My next choice is the so-called Asian mango (I suspect we get different varietals that all are passed under this name). It can be quite tasty. But it is especially good in mango salsa.

I have a favorite meal that I periodically serve for small parties at our place: fried salmon filet with wild rice (or rice medley) and mango salsa. For years, I used store-bought salsa, and it was quite good. But one time when I couldn’t find it in stores, I thought, “How hard can it be?” The result exceeded all my expectations: homemade mango salsa is so fragrant and flavorful that every time I eat it I dream about perfume that would smell how it tastes. For those of you who want to try (and have access to the ingredients), here’s the recipe that I use:

  • 3 ripe mangos, diced (I do it with Asian mangos, but any varietal would do – just make sure that they are not too ripe)
  • 1 medium red bell pepper, chopped
  • ½ cup chopped red onion
  • ¼ cup packed fresh cilantro leaves, chopped
  • 1 jalapeño, seeded and minced
  • 1 large lime, juiced (about ¼ cup lime juice)
  • ⅛ to ¼ teaspoon salt, to taste

Mango Salsa

My least favorite is Kent, the mango variety available in our supermarkets all year round. I don’t buy them any longer because those seem like the wrong rate of calories to taste.

* * *

My favorite mango perfume is Bombay Bling! by Neela Vermiere Creations. I still have some left in the bottle I bought ten years ago in Paris, and I still think it’s amazing – as long as I don’t try to wear it in tropical weather where it disappears too quickly to warrant its place in the travel wardrobe. But in cooler weather or a well-air-conditioned environment, it is such a bright and happy perfume! It makes me smile every time I wear it.

Rusty and NVC Bombay Bling

I tried several other perfumes with a mango note.

House Of Sillage Hauts Bijoux (Notes: mango, black currant, grapefruit, Karo Karounde, iris, heliotrope, vanilla, amber and cedarwood) has a lot of fruitiness in the opening: it starts with a lovely mango note joined by black currant. Hot weather suits it well, and it is quite pleasant in development. Hauts Bijoux is harsher than Mango Skin but still nice. The downside is that it is fleeting, which is unacceptable for such an expensive perfume.

Pierre Guillaume Paris Manguier Metisse (Notes: frangipani, sugar, mango, fruity notes, powdery notes, tea and woody notes) opens with candied frangipani and some fruit. I’m not sure I can smell mango. I think it smelled differently years ago when it was in a white bottle. Today it’s too sweet for me, and I don’t think I would want to wear it.

Heretic Parfums Dirty Mango (Notes: mandarin orange, lemon, mango, geranium, musk and white woods) is nice for the first 5 minutes. Then mango disappears. It’s not too interesting. And it’s not tenacious. I’m done testing it, and I won’t need more.

Vilhelm Parfumerie Mango Skin (Notes: mango, blackberry, black pepper, lotus, jasmine, iris, vanilla, icing pink and patchouli) opens with a mango scent that isn’t bursting juicy but somewhat muted, powdered… which probably comes from the iris. It is much more beautiful on my skin in hot weather than when it’s cooler. Mango Skin smells smooth, almost creamy. I don’t need more perfume now, but if I finish the sample I have, I might consider a travel bottle of it.

So, while I have one favorite mango-centric perfume and found one more that I might enjoy wearing, in general, it seems I have a better luck eating mango than finding one to wear.

 

Do you know any interesting mango perfumes?

 

Images: my own

Saturday Question: What Do You Consider a Fair Price for Niche Perfume?

We all periodically complain about high perfume prices. Sometimes, it’s not a general “too expensive” but “too expensive for me” or “isn’t worth the price.” But probably we would be tempted by a deeply discounted “too expensive” reject. Unless, of course, we are on a circumstantial or self-imposed “no-buys.” In general, we all like a good deal and would rather pay less than more. But stepping away from all that and not considering your financial situation at this time…

Saturday Question on Undina's Looking Glass

Saturday Question #189:

What Do You Consider a Fair Price for Niche Perfume?

Creating, producing, packaging and selling perfumes cost money. It is a business, and we don’t think brands/perfumers should do it out of altruism. But what do you think is a fair price for, let’s say, a 50 ml bottle of good niche perfume?

You might not have even $20 for discretionary spending now, you might not be buying any more perfume, period, or your budget might easily fit a real bespoke perfume – it doesn’t matter, it’s not about buying. The question is about your perception of a fair price, not what you’d pay for perfume you love or like.

My Answer

I think my threshold for a 50 ml bottle of niche perfume is about $200. How did I arrive at this number? If Andy Tauer, Hiram Green and Ormonde Jayne whose perfumes I like and who I trust use good ingredients can do that and stay in business, I don’t see why others wouldn’t be able to do the same.

It doesn’t mean that I wouldn’t buy more expensive perfumes (when I’m back to buying), and on a case-by-case basis, I might consider justifiable a higher price for perfumes with the most expensive ingredients (e.g., iris, ambergris or agarwood), but as a rule, anything above $200/50 ml seems greedy.

 

How about you?

What Do You Consider a Fair Price for Niche Perfume?

Twill Rose by Les Parfums de Rosine

Twill Rose by Les Parfums de Rosine

Hi there ULGers, Twill Rose by Les Parfums de Rosine was made for the gents. Don’t believe the hype. It’s totally unisex. Nice that Les Parfums de Rosine did an act of inclusion. I remember why this decant is in the collection. Back in 2014 Michael and I were in Paris and he bought bottles of this, the extrait of it and another Rosine gents release. While having bought my fill of perfume I stood and ached with wanting to own them. The next time I was in the Rosine store they had been DCd. I was devastated and bought my decant from Surrender To Chance so I would at least have a smidge to refer to. Lately I rediscovered the decant and now I’m going to use it all up and enjoy the having, without worrying about the saving. This way I’ll also have a reference post for later, and you will have a memory, through my nose, too.

Twill Rose by Les Parfums de Rosine 2006

Twill Rose Les Parfums de Rosine

Parfumo gives these featured accords:
Top: Galbanum, Green notes, Pink pepper, Mandarin orange
Heart: Rose, Violet
Base: Woods, Patchouli

SOOOOO green! This is heavenly on open. It’s a nose full of greenery and a little broken twig. Sadly as a solo scent this lasts a minute and then my nose notices the familiar sweet sizzle of the pink pepper berry and some fruitiness that doesn’t smell at all like mandarin.

The rose is fruity, like those gorgeous roasted pears and rose. Still there is greenery, slightly dark, flowing underneath. There’s also something resin-ish. Not smoky incense, vanilla or labdanum but like tears of elemi? I am not sure but it brings the fragrance together while also smoothing it out. The heart is gorgeous. I can see a man wearing it but it’s lovely enough for anyone. WHY is this DCd? It must have had rotten dales. deep into the heart I am getting sugar crystals above everything else, so interesting. Not confectionary or candy floss, just putting those coffee sugar crystals on your tongue. Still through the heart and well into what must be the base pear/rose/greenery is the centre accord.

If there is patchouli it’s not like patchouli for me. Not like any patchouli I know, from head shop to the clean I don’t know this. There are some greenish woods but even they are not a big deal.

Twill Rose by Les Parfums de Rosine

Am I terribly sad to not have a bottle? No, but I am a little sad. Twill Rose is lovely. I would have bought a bottle.

Did you ever try it?
Portia xx

 

 

 

 

Saturday Question: Have You Ever Tried Creed Aventus?

Three days ago, I got an email from one of the online perfumeries advertising a new limited edition from Creed“The pinnacle of the Creed legend – The New Absolu Aventus.” A funny part was that they misspelled the name in the subject line and then three more times in the body of the email. They called it “Absolue Adventus” – and that was what actually caught my attention. Since Advent Calendars (of beauty, fragrance and food types) were recently on my mind, I didn’t realize initially that it was a typo and seriously considered that Creed decided to release a limited edition with a season-appropriate name. Another interesting point about that release:

To insure (sic.) its meticulous craftsmanship and presentation, Creed has requested no samples, sampling on blotters or testers on display. Rather, our sales staff is available to provide you with a personal presentation and spritz on your skin for your discovery of this amazing Absolu Aventus.

The quote is from the same email, but I saw similar information elsewhere. Combined with a high even by Creed’s standards price ($545 for 75 ml), this seems like a serious commitment, which I imagine might come only from love for the original perfume. (I’m not counting those who treat it as an investment hoping to resell it for a higher price later or to split it for profit.) And that’s how I arrived at today’s question.

Saturday Question on Undina's Looking Glass

Saturday Question #188:

Have You Ever Tried Creed Aventus?

Do you know how it smells? Would you recognize it if you were to smell it blind? Do you like this perfume? Do you own it? Are you curious about that limited edition?

My Answer

I know that I smelled it at least once. I have a record in my database that I thought it was too masculine for my liking. And I didn’t like it enough to seek it out for my vSO. But I don’t think I would recognize it had I smelled it “in the wild,” and I don’t understand the hype around it. But maybe I smelled a “wrong batch”?

If I happen to be at a store that carried Creed, and they still have Absolu Aventus, if they do not allow testing on paper, I will use my vSO as a human blotter to try it – just out of curiosity and not because I think I’ll like it. But I won’t even try to go to such a store just for that.

How about you?

Have You Ever Tried Creed Aventus?

Saturday Question: What Was The Last Brand You Discovered?

Initially, I planned to ask about a new brand you discovered, but then I thought that since, with hundreds of brands out there, finding a new brand became less novel than it used to be 10 years ago, we mostly stopped being interested in brands’ stories. So, the question is about the brand that you haven’t tried before – be it a newly hatched or a well-established one.

Saturday Question on Undina's Looking Glass

Saturday Question #187:

What Was The Last Brand You Discovered?

Were you seeking it out or just came across their perfume(s)? Did you like what you tried? Did/will you add anything from that brand to your collection?

My Answer

These days, new (for me) brands rarely cross my path since I rarely visit stores that carry unusual/rare lines. And even when I do, there are so many perfumes from the brands I know that I haven’t tried that I usually do not have any energy left for discovering gems in the rough. Even when I go to high-end department stores, I rarely stop to try any brand I do not recognize: everything seems to be smelling like everything else and not worth engaging in the usual “dances” with an SA (“What type of perfumes do you like?”, “This is our most popular fragrance!”, etc.).

Mind Games attracted me with their bottles. There is something very appealing in chess pieces-themed bottles, though, it’s a dead end for the line since it’s limited by the number of different pieces. Unless, of course, they decide to create perfumes for each piece on the board (though, at this point, they chose not to use a pawn as an inspiration, even for a single perfume).

Our local Neiman Marcus didn’t carry all 10 perfumes in the line, but I tested 6 and even got samples to take home. What do I think about this collection? They are fine. Not good. Not bad. I thought that a couple was more interesting than the others, but in the end, I wasn’t impressed enough even to do a designated post about them. If, at some point, one of the decanters that I follow were to offer Gardez (pepper, spice, jasmine, orris, fruits, leather and wood), I would probably get a decant. The rest – I don’t think I’ll even finish the samples. But if anyone in the US is interested, Scentbird has 5 out of 10 perfumes from this line.

Mind Games Perfumes

How about you?

What Was The Last Brand You Discovered?

Rake n Ruin by BeauFort London

Rake n Ruin by BeauFort London

Hi there ULGers, Rake & Ruin by BeauFort London has been a First in Fragrance decant lying around this apartment for ages, years. It gets picked up and then put back, over and over again. So while I’m doing this New Idea 2023 thunking challenge I finally bit the bullet and sprayed the half that was left all over myself. WOWZERS! It’s so riotously over the top! You must try this fabulous freak.

Rake & Ruin by BeauFort London 2018

Rake & Ruin BeauFort London

Featured accords:
Top: Smoke, Angelica, Gin, Juniper, Sichuan Pepper, Pink Pepper, Licorice, Coriander, Orange, Lemon
Heart: Smoke, Cypress, Pine needles, Castoreum, Cade oil, Labdanum, Costus, Orris, Violet
Base: Smoke, Woody Notes, Ambrarome, Sandalwood

Smoky woods with a side order of peppery blue cheese. So outrageous and good in the Sydney heat.

The heart calms down a little and yes smoke but now it’s BarBQ smoke with some delightfully charring meat and twiggy greenery.

Dry down is BarBQ Shapes. It’s a spicy biscuit in Australia, don’t know if you have them in the world. Drizzled over charred wood, smoke and maybe a little burning tyre.

Rake & Ruin BeauFort London

Sounds ghastly? It’s not.

This is so fabulous. A true freak of fragrance.

Do I want it? Yes

Would I ever wear it? Probably not

HANG ON…. Maybe I would wear it. Do this crew do 10 or 15ml travels?

Rake & Ruin is something you at least need to try. Just for the fun of wearing something so wholly OTT.

Have you? Would you?
Portia xx

Saturday Question: Do You Compliment Others On Their Perfume?

My dear friends and readers, I know I’m slightly behind in responding to your comments. I want you to know that even though I do not always answer in a timely manner, I read all the comments the same day you leave them. And, as a rule, I get to them eventually – so, if you don’t subscribe to notifications, please check back in a week or so.

Saturday Question on Undina's Looking Glass

Saturday Question #186:

Do You Compliment Others On Their Perfume?

Do you tell your friends, relatives or loved ones that you like how they smell? How about co-workers, neighbors and other acquaintances? Do you ever compliment strangers?

My Answer

A short answer would be: Yes.

Not too many of the people I know personally wear perfumes. But whenever they do, I always notice and tell them if I like what I smell (and then sometimes the game “Can you tell what I’m wearing?” ensues).

In the office environment (while we still were coming daily to the same place to work), it was extremely rare to smell anything from co-workers or other people in the same office building. So, whenever I smelled anything, my knee-jerk reaction was to say something nice – just to acknowledge my appreciation of the fact that somebody was applying perfume. I think people react similarly to seeing a bright-colored blouse or statement jewelry piece: they compliment it not necessarily because they like it (and not even to be nice), but because they noticed it, and it was an easy thing to do… And then one day I stopped myself because I realized that I might be encouraging a person to keep wearing perfume I didn’t like. But unlike somebody else’s blouse that might not please you aesthetically but doesn’t really affect you, a scent that you do not like might be quite bothering… From that time, I would compliment someone only if I liked what I smelled and not the idea that I could smell something instead of the usual scentless sterility.

Whenever I smell something that I like on a complete stranger, if the situation permits, I do express my delight. And usually people like it. Annoyingly, on a couple of occasions recently I couldn’t figure out who to compliment: I looked around and even followed a couple of people in a store but didn’t find a person leaving that great sillage. Of course, I was annoyed not because I missed a conversation with a stranger, but because I really wanted to know what they were wearing.

 

How about you?

Do You Compliment Others On Their Perfume?

Saturday Question: What Are Your Favorite Fall Scents?

Fall is filled with many delightful aromasthe earthy smell of fallen leaves, cozy wood smoke, tart smell of ripe apples, warm, comforting fragrances of cinnamon-spiced apple pies, mulled cider, and roasted chestnuts. These combined scents create a harmonious symphony that captures the essence of autumn, making it a season rich in olfactory delights.

Saturday Question on Undina's Looking Glass

Saturday Question #185:

What Are Your Favorite Fall Scents?

What are natural aromas or smells from seasonal food and drinks that makes Autumn especially joyful? Do you like those smells as perfume notes? Do you have any perfumes with those notes? Are there any perfumes that you associate with that time of the year even though they don’t feature any fall-related notes?

My Answer

As a scent, I really like freshly fallen autumnal leaves – dry and slightly dusty rather than wet and decayed. Both the sound and the smell of crumbling leaves under my feet bring undefined nostalgic feelings. But it is not a scent I would like to either wear or have as an ambient scent in my home.

Fall aroma that found its way into my perfume wardrobe is a scent of pears. Unlike it is with many other fruits, pear note in perfumes are rarely dominant. But whatever this element contributes to perfumes, makes me like them. Looking through my database, I realized that I tried and liked at least 20 perfumes with that note (and own some of them). But one that comes to mind first is English Pear & Freesia by Jo Malone. I’ve been wearing it almost since its release in 2010, and I still enjoy it. And now I’m curious to try their new English Pear & Sweet Pea Cologne.

 

How about you?

What Are Your Favorite Fall Scents?

Perfumista by Anatole Lebreton

Perfumista by Anatole Lebreton

Hi there ULGers, Do you remember in 2019/20 first reading or hearing about the audacity of Anatole Lebreton to make a perfume named for us? Perfumista?!? Honestly, the few people I talked to were in agreeance that it would definitely bomb because how could he encapsulate EVERYTHING we would expect from such a title. So I ignored it. Then, a while ago, I saw it on the Surrender To Chance site and was so curious to find out what I’d dismissed so easily. Into the cart it went and made it all the way through checkout with a few other things that piqued my interest. Here it has sat, unloved and forlorn, awaiting the attention of this perfumista. Today is the day. Please come on a journey of discovery with me.

Perfumista by Anatole Lebreton 2019

Perfumista by Anatole Lebreton

The Anatole Lebreton site gives the featured accords:
Top: Pear, Plum, Raspberry
Heart: Bulgarian Rose, Indian Jasmin, Patchouli
Base: Virginy Cerdarwood, Peru Balsam, Musk

The opening is like a vintage chypre. Aldehydic fruity floral, clean and clear as a bell. GOSH! it even has that slightly over ripe fruit and feral backbeat you’d expect from vintage but one that has been kept perfectly. There is even a touch of the hairsprays that make vintage feel so glammed up and ready to hit the town.

The heart is jammy rose with some other florals but I don’t smell jasmine per se, more a bouquet with maybe some bulb flowers, lilac, peony and marigold. The word that keeps popping into my head sniffing the heart is petal-y. There’s a soft, fluffy, powderiness like rubbing flowers against your cheek. Though not a big bombastic scent, Perfumista is quietly noticeable through the heart. That jammy rose also has some earthy greenery as we head towards dry down.

The dry down brings back the fruits (now canned) over a woody, smoothly resinous base. It’s a surprising revival and makes the last couple of hours very sniffable. Get up close and breathe deep. You’ll be amply rewarded.

Perfumista by Anatole Lebreton

 

Well, that was 200% more glorious than expected. A real modern reimagining of a vintage ride for a true perfumista. I do love to be proved wrong and thrilled by a scent. I”ve only worn it three times but right now a bottle is right near the top of my To Buy List. Why am I so late to this brand?

Though anyone could and can wear it Perfumista veers heavily traditional femme. Longevity is good and the first hour, more really, are quite fragrant before softening into a streamlined, still interesting, dry down.

Do you remember when Perfumista launched? Were you intrigued or dismissive?
Portia xx