Saturday Question: How Many People That You Know IRL Wear Perfumes?

Remembering the B&M fiasco, just to be on the safe side, IRL = “in real life” (as opposite to “on Internet,” or “online”).

 

Saturday Question on Undina's Looking Glass

 

Saturday Question #193:

How Many People That You Know in IRL Wear Perfumes?

Perfumistas only count if you know them independently from the common hobby. Family, friends, coworkers, neighbors and other “civilians” are the subject of this SQ.

My Answer

My parents and grandparents on both sides wore perfumes. My vSO from time to time allows me to spray him with perfume I choose from his collection, but I’m not sure if he would do it without my initiative. I could remember about 10 friends and 3-4 co-workers who were noticed wearing perfumes from time to time, but just one who would do it daily.

All-in-all, before I started thinking about it, I didn’t realize how limited my RL’s perfume circle was! It makes me especially appreciative of all of you who come here every week to share our perfumed loves, likes and nemeses. And adore Rusty.

Rusty

How about you?

 

How Many People That You Know in IRL Wear Perfumes?

Trastevere by Pantheon Roma

Trastevere by Pantheon Roma

Hey there Crew, Trastevere by Pantheon Roma was a blind buy decant from Surrender To Chance a while ago, so long that I don’t remember buying it. On looking it up it was only early 2022. Anyway it got an early spritz and then put in the already full to overflowing Must Try This Again box. So now I’m going through that box and there are SO MANY good things hiding in it. Many of which ring no bells in my memory. Knowing in the Northern Hemisphere it’s starting to get VERY chill up there about now I thought something cozy might just hit the spot. I can also imagine this being a perfect Holiday Season gift to yourself.

Oh, and that bottle looks bloody gorgeous too. That’s the 100ml bottle, the 50ml is clear glass and very squat.

Trastevere by Pantheon Roma 2015

Trastevere Pantheon Roma bottle

Pantheon Roma gives these featured accords:
Top: Vanilla, Licorice
Heart: Vanilla, Caramel, Jasmine
Base:  Vanilla, Davana, Chestnut Cream

They also write this: It is the evocation of when, in 1500, the district of Trastevere it was considered “the oven of Rome” and was teeming with bakeries and young girls. Let’s imagine one walking slowly through the narrow streets of the neighborhood, and the scents of sweets and bread come out from the small windows. Warm, gourmand olfactory construction: it moves around the tones of Davana (Artemisia Pallens), whose taste characteristics of licorice and coffee are enhanced here by tones of chestnuts and vanilla. A truly extraordinary jasmine accompanies the bouquet.

OM G! Cookies, and licorice all sorts. Trastevere opens like them exactly. It’s spooky and fabulous.

Not long before the caramel makes its presence known, smelling just like a Worther’s tastes. I’m smiling from ear to ear. This is ALL my favourite snack foods in a fragrance. YUMMO!

All that happened in the first couple of minutes. Trastevere’s opening is amazing and delightful but TBH it’s not how I want to smell through a day.

Here’s the cool thing. At about the 15 minute mark the direct correlation to lollies softens. Yes, still very vanilla, a little custardy, but much more fine fragrance smelling. You will still get your gourmand on but with much less chance of nasal diabetes. Trastevere becomes a very elegant amber with gourmand overtones. Beautiful, wearable and dead sexy.

Trastevere by Pantheon Roma 2015

Leaning seriously traditional feminine but wearing Trastevere was lovely for me. No worries, I love the idea of fragrantly messing with the binary. Longevity and projection are moderate plus.

Though not a new fragrance, and already available at the discounters, I thought you might like to know of something that I’ve not seen much chatter about,
Sound good?
Portia xx

Saturday Question: Are You Doing Any Advent Calendars This Year? (2023 Edition)

I asked this question last year. But it was last year. And now we’re “all in” into the next holiday season. When did it happen?

Saturday Question on Undina's Looking Glass

Saturday Question #192:

Are You Doing Any Advent Calendars This Year? (2023 Edition)

Perfume? Beauty? Chocolates? Drinks? Anything else?

My Answer

I created a self-made Perfume Advent Calendar in 2021, and it was fun. Last year, not being in the mood for preparations, I skipped it. But this year I decided that, mood or no mood, a small investment of time now would allow me to enjoy surprises daily and help with my recently developed choice paralysis issue. I made a list: perfumes that I definitely want to wear in December (for example, I never want to go through Winter Holidays without wearing Serge Lutens Fille en Aiguilles) and perfumes that I might wear. I printed and cut out both lists, added all “must” choices and randomly selected “might” ones to cover 31 days (why stop at 25, right?), and then, without looking, placed paper strips in the numbered boxes of the Whittard of Chelsea Tea Advent Calendar (one of the three calendars that I enjoyed last year). Choices for December 25 through December 31 all went into box #25. Today’s perfume was Houbigant Quelques Fleurs Royale. If it weren’t for the Advent Calendar, would not have chosen to wear it today since it feels “too fancy” for grocery shopping I had on my “to-do” list. Having it decided for me, I enjoyed wearing it. So, my plan worked!

Houbigant Quelques Fleurs RoyaleThe above-mentioned Whittard of Chelsea Tea Advent Calendar was not bad, but it wasn’t spectacular, so I didn’t want to repeat it. But since I still liked the idea of having a different cup of tea every day, I decided to make my own. I bought several sets of teas from different brands and placed them in the box from last year’s Cult Beauty Advent Calendar that I redecorated slightly to hide the name (see the box on the right in the photo below). If anyone wonders: I couldn’t use the Whittard of Chelsea’s AC because those boxes were too small for tea that I got.

My Advent Calendars 2023Cult Beauty Advent Calendar was the best of the three: I got from it many products that I liked and used throughout the year. And together with the GWP that I received, it was a fantastic value. This August, I spent more time than I care to admit comparing different beauty Advent Calendars. I didn’t need one. But I wanted one. So, it had to be the best value (for me). My first choice was Space NK. I didn’t expect to get a discount, but I hoped to catch some promotion/GWP to make me feel better about paying full price. I waited and waited… until it was sold out. While I was thinking whether to take it as a sign and skip a beauty AC for this year or to go with one of the two “runner-ups” – Harrod’s and Cult Beauty – the latter, once again, offered a very tempting GWP. I was sold. I mean, I bought it – hence the second box in the picture above.

Today Rusty didn’t object to posing with the items I got from my two calendars. He was busy trying to chew the packets of Smith Tea Meadow.

Rusty and Day 1 of Advent Calendars 2023 Items

And for more pictures of Rusty, head over to my Instagram, where I started the traditional Advent CaTendar (count up to Rusty’s 15th Birthday on Christmas Eve).

 

How about you?

Are You Doing Any Advent Calendars This Year? (2023 Edition)

Sunday Question: Did You Buy Anything Perfume-related During the “Black Friday” Month?

It could be just me, but it felt like this November was crazier than usual with all the “Early Black Friday sales,” “Black Friday specials” and other variations on the t0pic that appeared right after Halloween. I am sure that even those of my readers who live in other parts of the world got at least some exposure to the online manifestation of this favorite American pastime.

Saturday Question on Undina's Looking Glass

Saturday Question #191:

Did You Buy Anything Perfume-related During the “Black Friday” Month?

A full bottle, travel spray or a decant on an especially good sale? A sample set you were eyeing? Some fancy candles or a room spray? Something else?

Bonus question: did you buy anything at all (not perfume-related)?

My Answer

Since I do not really need anything, and I am still in a “no-buy”/”low buy” mode, I wasn’t even looking at any perfume sites. So, no damage to my wallet. At least in this area.

As to everything else, I was quite boring: I bought mostly what I would have bought anyway, maybe not right now but in the next 2-4 weeks – a new tea kettle (mine is threatening to quit working any day now), bulk tea I always buy, new silk pillowcases and several products from The Ordinary. Speaking of The Ordinary: until the end of the month, they are having 23% off their already low prices, free shipping and, with the code SLOWMPES, a free Multi-Peptide Eye Serum (not affiliated). I like and use their Natural Moisturizing Factors + HA. And this time I decided to try their new Soothing & Barrier Support Serum.

And I almost forgot: Rusty got a new heated bed.

Rusty's New Heated Bed

 

How about you?

Did You Buy Anything Perfume-related During the “Black Friday” Month?

Uden Overdose by Xerjoff

Hey Hey Crew, Xerjoff Uden Overdose. I’ve got a vial and wanted to be excited by a Xerjoff. Had read some nice things about this being a winner. Maybe I’m missing something, it could need to be spritzed to get the full effect, maybe my body is rejecting the beautiful bits. It’s just so cheap smelling on me. Like a 1990s Diesel release. Not ragging on Diesel, they are cheap and cheerful and do their thing so well at their price point, punching well above often.

Uden Overdose, 50ml is over AU$400 here.

I know, I’m getting boring complaining about price but for what I smell here, on me, in this moment (yesterday too). I don’t get it.

Uden Overdose by Xerjoff 2018

Xerjoff Uden Overdose

Xerjoff gives these featured accords:
Top: Lemon, Bergamot
Heart: Tobacco Flowers, Ginger, Coffee
Base: Amber, Musk

OK, I smell a little citrus up the top. The tobacco flowers smell like scratchy woods. In the heart I smell some coffee and more dark oily woods. The base is more of those ubiquitous woods and a spiky, labdanum rich amber. None of it is AWFUL, this is wearable. A bit scratchy and average, maybe it smells a bit lazy. Anyway, I’m disappointed.

That late, on its way to dry down amber base is nice. It’s no Pierre Guillaume amber, but it is doing a good job of amber-ing.

Maybe my hopes were just too high? or expectations?

Please tell me I’m missing a whole piece of the story and that this is not the ride you’re getting.

Edit: This morning I woke and thought, before I’d become fully conscious, “What is that beautiful amber?” Just a whisper but so beautiful. Warm, honeyed, not too sweet and hints of chocolate. If only my whole wear had been this gorgeous.

Portia

 

PS I’m away but will come and read/answer comments ASAP.

 

Saturday Question: Do You Have “Energizer Bunny” Perfumes In Your Collection?

A couple of SQs ago, alytike wrote about Radical Rose by Matiere Premiere: “The opening was a gorgeous plush rose vanilla. […] The spearmint chewing gum joined the party & these 3 notes stayed for days! I mean scrubbing & multiple baths/ showers. It just didn’t know when to quit!” And it reminded me of that commercial for the Energizer Bunny that keeps going and going and going…

Saturday Question on Undina's Looking Glass

Saturday Question #190:

Do You Have “Energizer Bunny” Perfumes In Your Collection?

It doesn’t matter whether you appreciate their tenacity or get tired of them—name the heroes (or culprits?)?

My Answer

Tauer Perfume’s L’Air du desert marocain, which I like, is so potent and tenacious that I have to decant it into a dab vial to apply just a tiny amount; otherwise, it overwhelms me. I think that this is how it should be worn. Or diluted to the EdT strength.

How about you?

Do You Have “Energizer Bunny” Perfumes In Your Collection?

In The Search Of The Perfect Mango

It has been a while since I posted anything in this series. Mostly because I stopped testing perfumes or collecting samples by specific note. But I just happen to accumulate several perfumes with (supposedly) prominent mango note, so I decided to resurrect the topic.

Mango is my favorite fruit. I read that there are several hundreds of different cultivars. Of course, I haven’t tried even a tenth of them, but among those I’ve tried, the best were the mangos I ate in Hawaii. I don’t know the names of those varieties since we bought them at farmers’ markets where they were sold as “mango” – that’s it. But they were fantastic!

Hawaii Mango

* * *

As I was selecting perfumes for my trip to Hawaii at the end of September, I was licking my lips thinking of the mangos I would be eating soon and picturing setups I’d use to take photos of my latest mango-centric perfume, Mango Thai Lime by Jo Loves.

I don’t know how this year was different from previous times we vacationed there, but for whatever reason we didn’t see any mangos at the farmers markets we visited. We managed to find two ripened local mangos at a grocery shop on the last day on the island. We ate them at the airport before going into the departure zone (it is not allowed to bring any fruits or vegetables from Hawaii to the mainland), so no photos happened that day. What about the perfume?

Mango Thai Lime (Notes: mango, lime, black pepper, mint, freesia, vetiver and thyme) starts with a burst of juicy mango, sweetness of which is calmed down by the astringent lime. Fruits are realistic but perfume-y enough to serve as a personal scent. I liked it and enjoyed wearing it, but it becomes a whisper quickly and then goes into nothing within an hour. I will gladly wear the decant I got with my SceentBird subscription, but I won’t be adding a bottle to my collection.

Jo Loves Mango Lime

* * *

The second-best is Keitt mango. The interesting fact is that they stay green even when they are perfectly ripe. In California, they are usually available for a month or two in August-September. I always look forward to getting them. As a consolation prize, we were still able to buy several Keitt mangos after returning from the vacation.

My next choice is the so-called Asian mango (I suspect we get different varietals that all are passed under this name). It can be quite tasty. But it is especially good in mango salsa.

I have a favorite meal that I periodically serve for small parties at our place: fried salmon filet with wild rice (or rice medley) and mango salsa. For years, I used store-bought salsa, and it was quite good. But one time when I couldn’t find it in stores, I thought, “How hard can it be?” The result exceeded all my expectations: homemade mango salsa is so fragrant and flavorful that every time I eat it I dream about perfume that would smell how it tastes. For those of you who want to try (and have access to the ingredients), here’s the recipe that I use:

  • 3 ripe mangos, diced (I do it with Asian mangos, but any varietal would do – just make sure that they are not too ripe)
  • 1 medium red bell pepper, chopped
  • ½ cup chopped red onion
  • ¼ cup packed fresh cilantro leaves, chopped
  • 1 jalapeño, seeded and minced
  • 1 large lime, juiced (about ¼ cup lime juice)
  • ⅛ to ¼ teaspoon salt, to taste

Mango Salsa

My least favorite is Kent, the mango variety available in our supermarkets all year round. I don’t buy them any longer because those seem like the wrong rate of calories to taste.

* * *

My favorite mango perfume is Bombay Bling! by Neela Vermiere Creations. I still have some left in the bottle I bought ten years ago in Paris, and I still think it’s amazing – as long as I don’t try to wear it in tropical weather where it disappears too quickly to warrant its place in the travel wardrobe. But in cooler weather or a well-air-conditioned environment, it is such a bright and happy perfume! It makes me smile every time I wear it.

Rusty and NVC Bombay Bling

I tried several other perfumes with a mango note.

House Of Sillage Hauts Bijoux (Notes: mango, black currant, grapefruit, Karo Karounde, iris, heliotrope, vanilla, amber and cedarwood) has a lot of fruitiness in the opening: it starts with a lovely mango note joined by black currant. Hot weather suits it well, and it is quite pleasant in development. Hauts Bijoux is harsher than Mango Skin but still nice. The downside is that it is fleeting, which is unacceptable for such an expensive perfume.

Pierre Guillaume Paris Manguier Metisse (Notes: frangipani, sugar, mango, fruity notes, powdery notes, tea and woody notes) opens with candied frangipani and some fruit. I’m not sure I can smell mango. I think it smelled differently years ago when it was in a white bottle. Today it’s too sweet for me, and I don’t think I would want to wear it.

Heretic Parfums Dirty Mango (Notes: mandarin orange, lemon, mango, geranium, musk and white woods) is nice for the first 5 minutes. Then mango disappears. It’s not too interesting. And it’s not tenacious. I’m done testing it, and I won’t need more.

Vilhelm Parfumerie Mango Skin (Notes: mango, blackberry, black pepper, lotus, jasmine, iris, vanilla, icing pink and patchouli) opens with a mango scent that isn’t bursting juicy but somewhat muted, powdered… which probably comes from the iris. It is much more beautiful on my skin in hot weather than when it’s cooler. Mango Skin smells smooth, almost creamy. I don’t need more perfume now, but if I finish the sample I have, I might consider a travel bottle of it.

So, while I have one favorite mango-centric perfume and found one more that I might enjoy wearing, in general, it seems I have a better luck eating mango than finding one to wear.

 

Do you know any interesting mango perfumes?

 

Images: my own

Saturday Question: What Do You Consider a Fair Price for Niche Perfume?

We all periodically complain about high perfume prices. Sometimes, it’s not a general “too expensive” but “too expensive for me” or “isn’t worth the price.” But probably we would be tempted by a deeply discounted “too expensive” reject. Unless, of course, we are on a circumstantial or self-imposed “no-buys.” In general, we all like a good deal and would rather pay less than more. But stepping away from all that and not considering your financial situation at this time…

Saturday Question on Undina's Looking Glass

Saturday Question #189:

What Do You Consider a Fair Price for Niche Perfume?

Creating, producing, packaging and selling perfumes cost money. It is a business, and we don’t think brands/perfumers should do it out of altruism. But what do you think is a fair price for, let’s say, a 50 ml bottle of good niche perfume?

You might not have even $20 for discretionary spending now, you might not be buying any more perfume, period, or your budget might easily fit a real bespoke perfume – it doesn’t matter, it’s not about buying. The question is about your perception of a fair price, not what you’d pay for perfume you love or like.

My Answer

I think my threshold for a 50 ml bottle of niche perfume is about $200. How did I arrive at this number? If Andy Tauer, Hiram Green and Ormonde Jayne whose perfumes I like and who I trust use good ingredients can do that and stay in business, I don’t see why others wouldn’t be able to do the same.

It doesn’t mean that I wouldn’t buy more expensive perfumes (when I’m back to buying), and on a case-by-case basis, I might consider justifiable a higher price for perfumes with the most expensive ingredients (e.g., iris, ambergris or agarwood), but as a rule, anything above $200/50 ml seems greedy.

 

How about you?

What Do You Consider a Fair Price for Niche Perfume?

Twill Rose by Les Parfums de Rosine

Twill Rose by Les Parfums de Rosine

Hi there ULGers, Twill Rose by Les Parfums de Rosine was made for the gents. Don’t believe the hype. It’s totally unisex. Nice that Les Parfums de Rosine did an act of inclusion. I remember why this decant is in the collection. Back in 2014 Michael and I were in Paris and he bought bottles of this, the extrait of it and another Rosine gents release. While having bought my fill of perfume I stood and ached with wanting to own them. The next time I was in the Rosine store they had been DCd. I was devastated and bought my decant from Surrender To Chance so I would at least have a smidge to refer to. Lately I rediscovered the decant and now I’m going to use it all up and enjoy the having, without worrying about the saving. This way I’ll also have a reference post for later, and you will have a memory, through my nose, too.

Twill Rose by Les Parfums de Rosine 2006

Twill Rose Les Parfums de Rosine

Parfumo gives these featured accords:
Top: Galbanum, Green notes, Pink pepper, Mandarin orange
Heart: Rose, Violet
Base: Woods, Patchouli

SOOOOO green! This is heavenly on open. It’s a nose full of greenery and a little broken twig. Sadly as a solo scent this lasts a minute and then my nose notices the familiar sweet sizzle of the pink pepper berry and some fruitiness that doesn’t smell at all like mandarin.

The rose is fruity, like those gorgeous roasted pears and rose. Still there is greenery, slightly dark, flowing underneath. There’s also something resin-ish. Not smoky incense, vanilla or labdanum but like tears of elemi? I am not sure but it brings the fragrance together while also smoothing it out. The heart is gorgeous. I can see a man wearing it but it’s lovely enough for anyone. WHY is this DCd? It must have had rotten dales. deep into the heart I am getting sugar crystals above everything else, so interesting. Not confectionary or candy floss, just putting those coffee sugar crystals on your tongue. Still through the heart and well into what must be the base pear/rose/greenery is the centre accord.

If there is patchouli it’s not like patchouli for me. Not like any patchouli I know, from head shop to the clean I don’t know this. There are some greenish woods but even they are not a big deal.

Twill Rose by Les Parfums de Rosine

Am I terribly sad to not have a bottle? No, but I am a little sad. Twill Rose is lovely. I would have bought a bottle.

Did you ever try it?
Portia xx

 

 

 

 

Saturday Question: Have You Ever Tried Creed Aventus?

Three days ago, I got an email from one of the online perfumeries advertising a new limited edition from Creed“The pinnacle of the Creed legend – The New Absolu Aventus.” A funny part was that they misspelled the name in the subject line and then three more times in the body of the email. They called it “Absolue Adventus” – and that was what actually caught my attention. Since Advent Calendars (of beauty, fragrance and food types) were recently on my mind, I didn’t realize initially that it was a typo and seriously considered that Creed decided to release a limited edition with a season-appropriate name. Another interesting point about that release:

To insure (sic.) its meticulous craftsmanship and presentation, Creed has requested no samples, sampling on blotters or testers on display. Rather, our sales staff is available to provide you with a personal presentation and spritz on your skin for your discovery of this amazing Absolu Aventus.

The quote is from the same email, but I saw similar information elsewhere. Combined with a high even by Creed’s standards price ($545 for 75 ml), this seems like a serious commitment, which I imagine might come only from love for the original perfume. (I’m not counting those who treat it as an investment hoping to resell it for a higher price later or to split it for profit.) And that’s how I arrived at today’s question.

Saturday Question on Undina's Looking Glass

Saturday Question #188:

Have You Ever Tried Creed Aventus?

Do you know how it smells? Would you recognize it if you were to smell it blind? Do you like this perfume? Do you own it? Are you curious about that limited edition?

My Answer

I know that I smelled it at least once. I have a record in my database that I thought it was too masculine for my liking. And I didn’t like it enough to seek it out for my vSO. But I don’t think I would recognize it had I smelled it “in the wild,” and I don’t understand the hype around it. But maybe I smelled a “wrong batch”?

If I happen to be at a store that carried Creed, and they still have Absolu Aventus, if they do not allow testing on paper, I will use my vSO as a human blotter to try it – just out of curiosity and not because I think I’ll like it. But I won’t even try to go to such a store just for that.

How about you?

Have You Ever Tried Creed Aventus?