Hi there Looking Glassers, I’m clearly a Guerlain fan, it’s been a brand in my life since childhood. Also, I understand that perfume pricing has gone out of control. What was a fun hobby that could be played with spare change, it has now become a major investment. That’s taken quite a lot of the fun out of being a perfumista for me. Now, when I try a stratospherically priced new perfume it has to be unbelievably special. Tick all the boxes, surprise, delight, ring my bell and make me swoon: at the very least. Especially when some of the Indie Perfume Houses are making spectacular, envelope pushing beauties for less than a quarter the price. So, to be fair, I’m coming to Patchouli Paris with a fairly jaded mindset, eyerolling at the price and grumpy at LVMH. I got my decant at Surrender To Chance.
Patchouli Paris by Guerlain 2024
I found these featured accords:
Top: Aldehydes
Heart: Iris
Base: Patchouli, Ambergris
Opening is a lightly sweet, smoky aldehydic zing that smells very CHANEL and it has a real early 200os radiant white floral effect. This could be a new Les Exclusive. Smooth and lovely, the iris feels so clean, a little bit soapy. Dry down is a very soft focus clean patchouli with only the merest whispered hint of briny whale poop.
Everyone that has talked to me about Patchouli Paris has told me it’s a barnstormer but I find it incredibly polite. An under the radar fragrance that feels totally introverted. If that’s your style then Patchouli Paris will be catnip. A perfect low humming pale wash that elevates your own scent without drawing attention, or histrionics.
Obviously, your mileage may vary. I sincerely hope it does and that it’s just on me that Patchouli Paris lays like a limp lettuce leaf: insipid, uninspiring and sadly undelightful.
Longevity and sillage are moderate. Nice on everyone, across gender borders.
SOOO NICE that I can see this becoming a go-to patchouli for those that don’t really love patchouli but do love the very glamorous facets of iris, with a touch of leathery goodness. There is none of the bread dough, carrot or woody dankness that can so often accompany the noble iris rhizome.
It’s like Guerlain has become afraid of making a real statement and has decided to mumble.
What did you think?
Portia xx
Undina's Looking Glass 
Agree wholeheartedly about pricing, Portia. It’s been heading that way for years and has now got so silly. I can’t get my head round how they can charge so much – I know there are all sorts of costs involved, like packaging, marketing, manufacturing etc, but is the juice itself really that costly? I can’t believe it …. even if the rarest ambergris is used! Then there is dilution so that, with just a few exceptions, there is nothing that lasts longer than a couple of hours, and even during that time doesn’t have much presence! Oh dear, I am Mrs Grumpy this morning!
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HA! Perfect place to have a grump JilliCat.
I’m glad not to be alone in my sadness and pique at the industry. It’s bonkers.
Portia xx
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We’re all having the same grumpy emotions lol-I’m right there with you both. I tried this from an official Guerlain sample, and I loved the opening but the dry down was absolutely not special on me. I’m fine with it cause it’s beyond what I want to pay for a perfume. They’ve lost me with these price increases.
I remember reading about Soir de Paris, and it could be purchased in a variety of bottles. So you’d have a quality scent for everyone-the bottle could be costly or not. What a fantastic idea. Wish some pioneering house would reinstate that policy.
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OOOH! Carole, that’s a genius idea. Thing is, all the perfume houses are already doing those exactly same lineups. They must buy them in the trillions for pennies. We are being rorted and lapping it up.
Parfums MDCI did a similar thing with the statue lid or without. You can be quite sure I’ve got without on mine. Still smells divine.
Portia xx
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since I am not a huge fan of patchouli and I liked this one it’s pretty tame 🤩
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Right! Very polite, yeah?
Also very pretty.
Did you splurge RR?
Portia xx
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No, definitely not. Liked it, but didn’t love it.
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Your wallet thanks you. A lot.
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since I am not a huge fan of patchouli and I liked this one it’s pretty tame 🤩
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I’m being sensible & wont even be trying this. I refuse to pay on a credit card for perfume & unless it’s spectacular & I cannot bear to live without it, I tend to keep well clear
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You are infinitely more sensible than I Alityke.
I am getting better at not buying though. Money constraints make a good curtailment plan.
Portia xx
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It’s a recent phenomenon. Happy to help disenable anytime x
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So I’m embarrassed to say looking up DISENABLE because my head read it Deh Sen Ah Bull instead of dis-enable. HA HA HA HA HA.
Thanks for the laugh Alityke
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You’ve spent far too much time in Paris! I’m pretty sure these “able” words are the gift of Norman French a 1000 years ago. You’re just going back to its roots. Incroyable! As they say en France. Hehehe
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Thank you for your kind generosity Alityke
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I am ashamed: I know that I tried it (on paper) about a month ago (I think), but I absolutely don’t remember what I thought. It means it wasn’t horrible, and it wasn’t wonderful. But other than that… So, at those prices, I won’t probably even try it again.
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HA! That’s a big UNstatement right there Undina.
You’ve forgotten it already.
Portia xx
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The high cost of perfumes has almost eliminated the excitement of shopping, transforming it into a non-essential luxury purchase. During recent trips to explore the Guerlain L’Art & La Matière Collection, I discovered several fragrances that I found appealing. However, the realization of the exorbitant price per bottle quickly dampened my enthusiasm. Guerlain manages to infuse this collection with just enough intrigue to make it attractive. One fragrance that particularly caught my attention was Tobacco Honey, but in all honesty, there are so many perfumes with a similar profile that I can’t justify spending the asking price.
Perhaps Guerlain could consider a name change to Polite Patchouli. I enjoyed Patchouli Paris, but it didn’t last long on my skin. I find this to be true of many within the L’Art & La Matiére Collection.
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Yeah, it has become a real puzzle. I wonder how dramatically the sales have fallen?
HA! Polite Patchouli would definitely sell in certain quarters.
Portia xx
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I anticipate that it will have a negative impact on overall sales. 35% is no small increase. Of course, I’ve enjoyed the email notifications from some brands warning of their inevitable price hikes. It’s a cyclical pattern: there’s a spike, followed by a fall.
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Yeah, I’m waiting for a real fall
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