Sunday Question: Christmas and Perfumes – Did You Celebrate? What Did You Wear? Did You Give or Receive Any Scented Presents?

Winter holidays are nearing the end, and soon we’ll start waiting for next year’s season. But while we’re still in the current one, let’s talk about it.

 

Saturday Question on Undina's Looking Glass

 

Saturday Question #287:

Christmas & Perfumes – Did You Celebrate? What Did You Wear? Did You Give or Receive Any Scented Presents?

Please share your holiday stories – as much or as little as you’d like, whether those include perfumes or don’t.

My Answer

I’m sure I wrote about this multiple times, but I don’t expect anyone to remember or, if you do, to mind me repeating myself. While not being religious, I kind of celebrate Hanukkah, and for many years, on Christmas Eve, we celebrated the birthday of our Christmas cat, Rusty. Which we quietly did with my vSO this year as well. On Christmas Day, we went to our friends’ house for another celebration. But since none of us can claim this holiday, it was more like an extended family gathering without a traditional gift exchange. I wore Lancôme Climat and loved it, as always.

I’ve got a small perfume gift for Christmas: the Harrods‘ Beauty Advent Calendar that I chose this year had a travel bottle of Etat Libre d’Orange Uruk. But even though I was opening a box every day to see what was there, I decided not to use any of the gifts before the New Year. So, I still haven’t tried Uruk (and based on the notes, I do not expect to like it – but we’ll see).

For the New Year, our main celebration that includes gifts, I expect a bottle of perfume (as a present from me to me). This is my only full-bottle purchase this year! I will tell you more about it next year, once I officially find it under my New Year tree. Other than that, I do not expect to receive or give any perfume-related gifts.

 

How about you?

 

Christmas & Perfumes – Did You Celebrate? What Did You Wear? Did You Give or Receive Any Scented Presents?

Cinnabar by Estee Lauder

Cinnabar by Estee Lauder

Hey there ULGers, Well, it’s Christmas in two sleeps. We are filling our table for Christmas Eve, as usual. Nothing over the top. Jin does his famous Roast Pork and Crackling. I do some salads and roast veggies. BFF Kath does Pavlova. Nice. Christmas morning BFF Kath, Jin and I will hit Kath’s Dad’s house. This year we are having a new idea, breakfast. Christmas Ham and Cheese toasted Croissants with some Mimosas. That’s everything we have planned. If you do the Christmas thing I hope it’s fun and drama free. If you don’t then count your lucky stars. I’m hoping this new, scaled back adventure will remain in place for the foreseeable. For the last few years I’ve forgotten to wear an old seasonal favourite, Cinnabar. This year I’m giving it the spritz. Probably for Christmas Day after breakfast and swimming.

Cinnabar by Estee Lauder

Cinnabar by Estee Lauder

Estée Lauder Australia gives these featured accords:
Top: Jasmine, Orange Flower, Tangerine
Heart: Clove, Muguet, Lily
Base: Olibanum, Sandalwood, Patchouli

As you can see below, this is my pre-refurbed bottle of Cinnabar. I can’t remember when it was bought but it’s seen next to zero use. I’m wondering if it was purchased off another perfumista and then put it in the Lauder box? Completely forgetting it. Recently I bought a new style bottle on deep discount and when putting it away rediscovered this gem. Exciting. The price tag on the back is AU$45! I just went and did the Check Fresh batch code thing and look!

Cinnabar by Estee Lauder check fresh

Woo Hoo! That is OLD! Will not lie. That is bloody brilliant. Basically a Christmas Present of a surprise.

So Cinnabar was created by Bernard Chant and Josephine Catapano and released in 1978. It definitely references YSL Opium, released in 1977 but does it in such a Bernard Chant way. So Opium but with hints of Aramis and Cabochard. Basically a spicy amber that feels VERY seasonal. It’s funny because here in Sydney it will probably be 38°C/100f. It will be a total lean into the heat.

Cinnabar by Estee Lauder

Nowadays Cinnabar feels ultimately unisex and so good I reckon it can compete with the best and most expensive spicy niche ambers available too. Longevity and diffusion are excellent, a little goes a long way and scent bombing can happen with a spritz or two too many.

Wishing you and your crew a safe, fun and drama free season. Good luck navigating the crowds and family. Be kind to yourself and don’t go anywhere toxic, just say “NO”. It’s a complete sentence and often the very healthiest choice.

HUGS
Portia xx

Saturday Question: What Are Your Top 5 Winter Perfumes?

People might argue about when Winter starts or ends, but in the Northern Hemisphere, most would probably agree that now it is Winter. And just as we’ve long been done with the clothing uncertainties of the in-between seasons, we’ve probably fully switched to our cold-weather perfume wardrobe. So, what are you wearing this season?

 

Saturday Question on Undina's Looking Glass

 

Saturday Question #286:

What Are Your Top 5 Winter Perfumes?

Are these the same as in previous years (at least by your recollection), or have you promoted any of the previous runners-up or demoted former favorites?

My Answer

I’m making a conscious effort to wear perfumes more often, and I still need to rearrange my collection so that the bottles I want to reach for are easier to get to. But when it came to choosing five winter perfumes, it proved to be harder than I had expected.

I was briefly tempted to “cheat” by changing the question to Top 30 (I’m sure you know how that goes), but I forced myself to stop at five long-time favorites. So, in no particular order:

  • L’Artisan Parfumeur Tea for Two
  • Jo Malone Sweet Milk
  • Serge Lutens Fille en Aiguilles
  • Amouage Ubar
  • Teo Cabanel Alahine

All these perfumes have been my winter favorites for years. They might or might not have been “the top 5” in previous years, but they were definitely “top” something.

How about you?

What Are Your Top 5 Winter Perfumes?

Winter Solstice Ritual

Winter Solstice Ritual

Hi Crew, Here’s something fabulous you can try at home that I found on ValerieTejeda. If you love cosmic energy then you might want to jump over and have a look see.
This ritual starts December 21 and goes for 12 nights. What a wonderful way to set intentions, wishes and hopeful aspirations.

Winter Solstice Ritual

Winter Solstice Ritual

This ritual involves writing down 13 wishes, one for each night, each represents an intention or dream for the upcoming year.

For this ritual you will need:

A piece of paper or a journal, a pen, a candle, matches or a lighter, and a fireproof bowl for burning.

Step 1: Set your space

Begin by creating a peaceful space. Dim the lights, light a candle, burn some incense, play soothing music… Whatever resonates with you to create a calming and magical space for the ritual.

Step 2: Write your intentions for the year ahead

On the Solstice, take a moment to reflect on what you want to leave behind in 2025 and what you want to bring into 2026. Then, write 13 wishes (intentions, dreams, etc) for the year ahead on a piece of paper and then cut the paper so each of the wishes are on their own piece. You can store the wishes in a bowl or envelope.

Step 3: Burn one wish each night

Over the next 12 nights (the Solstice being night 1), light a candle and grab one of the pieces of paper (don’t look to see what it says) and safely burn the paper as if you are releasing the wish into the universe. Watch the flame consume it completely.

Step 4: Keep the final wish

On the 12th night, burn your 12th wish and keep the 13th. Look to see what the 13th wish is and this will be considered your biggest intention of the 13 for the year to come. Save the piece of paper to reflect on it throughout the year.

What lovely, quiet, safe way to engage with yourself and the universe.
What do you have to lose?
Portia x

Rattlesnake Musk by DSH Perfumes

Rattlesnake Musk by DSH Perfumes

Hey Crew! Sadly, Dawn Spencer Hurwitz is now unable to send alcohol based perfume to Australia. It’s a complete bummer. The good news though is that Surrender To Chance has some of her work to sample. Currently five of them. So I did what we perfumistas do, bought myself a couple of ml to enjoy. DSH Perfumes has long been a favourite indie house for me, and I even got to meet Dawn in person at an awards night in London a few years ago. Yes, she’s exactly as bright and wondrous as expected. So here’s a little look at one of her 2022 perfume releases, Rattlesnake Musk. What a fabulous title.

From DSH Perfumes: A rocky snakeskin and animalic musk fragrance with a definite bite.  (A connoisseur’s fragrance…that’s not for the faint of heart).

Rattlesnake Musk by DSH Perfumes 2022

Rattlesnake Musk by DSH Perfumes

DSH Perfumes give these featured accords:
Africa Stone Tincture, Ambergris, Bulgarian Rose Absolute, Castoreum, Costus, East Indian Patchouli, Galbanum, Leather, Musk, Oude / Agarwood, Sandalwood, Snakeskin (Accord), Virginia Cedar

The opening is waxy and clean, brand new Tupperware. So interesting. This is the oil version. Once that plastic has burned off Rattlesnake Musk becomes a low key fragrance, smelling a lot like one of those old fur coats you find in thrift stores. It’s animalic and dusty but also has the ghosts of hundreds of perfumes. Memories of a life well lived before coming into your hands.

The heart smells/feels smooth, tight and just a little funky. If you’ve ever smelled a snakes herpetarium, then the smell will be a surprisingly good, amped up to 50 recreation. Yet, Rattlesnake Musk is also more than the bosky smell of a snakepit. This is no Demeter perfume. It’s a fine fragrance that includes woods and a bouquet. It says rose, and there is rose, but I’m smelling more than just the rose. I’m also smelling freesias and undercurrents of tomato leaves. Yeah, I know they’re not noted, maybe my nose is playing tricks.

Rattlesnake Musk by DSH Perfumes

Dry down becomes the smell of warm skin as you leave the beach. Bronzed, a little salty and full of the healthy glow of exercise and the great outdoors. Dawn has done such an amazing job of creating Rattlesnake Musk that most of the notes are completely unparseable, it becomes a beautiful, better than skin whisper lasting hours and hours.

I know my review of Rattlesnake Musk makes it sound like a weirdo but it really isn’t. Interesting, great life parabola and very different to anything else I’ve ever smelled.

Do you think it could be a winner for you?
Portia xx

Saturday Question: What Is Your Favorite Scented Candle?

This time of year tends to get chilly and dim early, and the house feels noticeably cozier with a candle burning. A warm light and a familiar scent make the season easier to enjoy. So, today’s question fits the moment well.

 

Saturday Question on Undina's Looking Glass

 

Saturday Question #285:

What Is Your Favorite Scented Candle?

Do you repeat-purchase any scent, or do you explore new ones every time you choose the next candle?

My Answer

A flickering light that immediately makes any room warmer. A scent that gradually fills all the available space and lingers long after a candle is put out. Candles are festive, calming, relaxing and romantic…

Theoretically, I love candles – and not only scented ones. And at any time, I have at least 2-3 of them at home. But many years with Rusty, who mercilessly hunted any burning wick from a Hanukkah shamash to a birthday candle, taught me never to leave them unattended. As a result, a candle that is burned for half an hour during dinner and then safely retired to the cupboard will serve me for at least a couple of years. And even if I don’t love them, I can’t bring myself to throw them away.

I rarely buy candles; I use those that I get as gifts from friends or as a GWP. So, I can’t say that I have any real favorites. I do love my Ormonde Jayne Ta’if candle that I received as part of a gift set. But since that perfume is one of my all-time favorites, I don’t want to use it as an ambiance scent. Everything else was fine while it lasted, but I never wanted to repeat any of the candles I finished.

This year, I discovered something I wish I had found much earlier – a candle warmer. I’m sure I was the last one to learn about it, but just in case anyone else managed to miss this trend: it is a lamp that melts a candle placed under it without actually burning it. I love the idea, and it has become part of my daily evening ritual. You can choose the intensity of the light and use the timer. Some models (not the one I got) also allow you to change the distance from the candle to the light. And now I am on a quest to find the best winter candle to enjoy with my candle warmer.

Candle Warmer

How about you?

 

What Is Your Favorite Scented Candle?

Nuit de Bakelite by Naomi Goodsir

Nuit de Bakelite by Naomi Goodsir

Hello, Hello, Hello! As you in the Northern Hemisphere enjoy the trill of cool weather and as we hit the scorching heat I thought we should look at an amazing but very queer fish. Jin and I were lucky enough to be in Esxence in 2017 when it was launched. Naomi Goodsir had taken a room in the nearby Grand Hotel and wrapped it all in a luminous almost white green. Everything. It looked like Christo and Jeanne-Claude had waded in, swathes of fabric ready to wrap. There were also strangely compelling installations of soft sculpture that I can’t really remember clearly but was open mouthed in wonder at. I had the usual five or so minutes and had not expected to be alone with Naomi and her business partner. Thinking it would be a bunch of perfumista journalists in a Q&A, and hoping to piggyback off their collective inquiries. Being face to face with the startlingly beautiful Naomi Goodsir was a terrifying treat.

This review is spurred by my popping over to the Naomi Goodsir site and all the perfumes are now unavailable to buy. Quelle Horreur! So I ran to my bottle and spritzed. I can still see them available in online stores with no disclaimer so I’m not currently freaking hardcore.

Also, this is my mate Scotty’s favourite from the line. He wears it like it was made just for him.

Nuit de Bakelite by Naomi Goodsir 2017

Nuit de Bakelite by Naomi Goodsir

 

Instead of a note list we are given some very Serge Lutens gobbledygook, with some featured accords thrown in “A green, obsessive & addictive composition supported by tuberose abs, galbanum, angélique flower, fleur d’immortelle, wooden & leather notes & styrax. A focus on the small peduncle that connects the flower to the stem, the sound of latex when several stalks of tuberose tangle, the wild majesty of the Persian tuberose. Inspiration – The premise of a narcotic lady

Peony Melbourne gives these featured accords:
Top: Galbanum
Heart: Tuberose, Bakelite Accord
Base: Cistus Labdanum

Created by one of the main perfumers for Annick Goutal, Isabelle Doyen, and reminiscent in style to some of her more tapestried works for that brand. I feel one of her true abilities is creating fragrant chiaroscuro (brilliant light and inky darkness) that sets up a beautiful harmonious dualism. It’s alluring and just a little fractious, like a fragrant contrapuntal. I find myself searching for how she makes something feel so simple from arms length, yet incredibly multi faceted up close.

Nuit de Bakelite is no exception.

The opening is galbanum and petrol, smoke and char. Nuit de Bakelite is NOT for the faint hearted. It is the heart of a tree nymph, a moss covered Ent and a reed ringed shallow lake that is heading stagnant. Dark, dank and ridiculously gorgeous. So alluring, even though it may be to your death.

Who knows what a bakelite accord is? If it’s the burning tyre hiding behind the greenery then maybe that was the intention.

Nuit de Bakelite is laugh out loud gorgeous and repellent in equal measure. The first hour is utterly bewildering.

Nuit de Bakelite Naomi Goodsir

Once the fireworks settle I’m left with a shady riverside glen. peaceful, cool and restful. The scent of a dream of the kind of place you can watch butterflies and dragonflies flying through dappled sunlight.

Unisex. Longevity is well out of the ballpark and diffusion is huge for the first hour and then calms considerably. You’ll be fragrant, but not aggressively so, all day.

 

Do you think Nuit de Bakelite sounds wearable or too confrontational for you?
Portia xx

 

Saturday Question: Have You Ever Tried to Talk Yourself into Liking a Perfume?

It feels like this question needs a bit of context. When we encounter new perfumes, we try them, sometimes like them (though more often not), may revisit later or test them in different settings, and eventually either warm up to them or decide they’re not for us. That’s the “organic” path. But have you ever read a wonderful story about a perfume, fallen for the bottle, thought the notes were exactly up your alley, or even gone for a blind buy – and then, unwilling to be fully disappointed after the first sniff, kept returning to it, trying to talk yourself into thinking you probably… sort of… maybe like it?

 

Saturday Question on Undina's Looking Glass

 

Saturday Question #284:

Have You Ever Tried to Talk Yourself into Liking a Perfume?

Did you succeed?

My Answer

Yes, I have done it so many times. I realized that recently when, after wearing several perfumes, I got the feeling that I wasn’t really enjoying them — and that made me think back to how they got into my collection. At least several of them were the result of my insistent work on liking them. Today I probably wouldn’t have bought them. But since they are in my collection, I won’t be naming those full-bottle half-regrets. Instead, I’ll mention just several of the significantly less costly results of mental experiments on myself (believe me, there were many more).

Iris Rebelle by Atelier Cologne. I read a compelling review by who back then was my “scent twin.” I like iris as a note in perfumes. I liked the brand. I tried it and kind of liked it. Bought a travel spray. I featured it in the Scent Semantics #7: BRILLIANCE post several years ago, wore it once since then – and never even think about it.

Cuir de Lancome. It was one of everybody’s darlings 12-15 years ago. I liked it, but I liked it abstractly, from a swapped sample and later from a small decant a perfumista friend shared with me. It was still not too expensive to buy back then, but I kept telling myself that I needed to finish the decant first… And whenever it was mentioned on a blog, and commenters would all agree what a great perfume it was, I would again feel a pang of regret for not owning a bottle and try it again, telling myself that I liked it… I never bought it, and once my decant got empty (I’m not sure whether from me wearing it or from evaporation), I stopped thinking about it.

Dom Rosa by Les Liquides Imaginaires. I tried it when I visited one of the local perfumeries and liked it enough to buy it as one of five samples from that visit. But trying it again at home, I could never recreate the same feeling I experienced at the store. Still, it kept popping up for sale at a very reasonable price, so each time I would go back to my sample, hoping to recapture that initial infatuation. I remember my insistence. Luckily for me, I finished the sample and entered a verdict in my database: “Nice but nothing special.”

How about you?

 

Have You Ever Tried to Talk Yourself into Liking a Perfume?

Aesthete by Le Galion

Aesthete by Le Galion

Heya ULGers, You’ve probably read me banging on about Le Galion’s Aesthete before around the scentbloggosphere. From a brand that I love so many fragrances from it stands head and shoulders above the rest for most wears in my life. Whenever I seek it out it tends to stay on the desk or grab tray, getting regular spritzes for a few weeks. It’s a throwback beauty to a time when the gents fragrance were interesting and thoughtfully produced. The nose, Vanina Muracciole, has done some other work for Jovoy Paris and my favourite from Masque Milano: Kintsugi. Nicolas Chabot, the brands owner and creative director, has a perfect sense of balance when overseeing perfume creations. A knack for ensuring that even though the ingredients might be unusual or confrontational the end product is always a perfectly poised, wearable, piece of olfactory art. Sometimes that balance is construed by those seeking envelope pushing weirdo scents as boring but I think as those perfumistas hit a certain point they will understand the quiet beauty of Le Galion. It’s like the Le Galion oeuvre is made to make perfumers sigh in delight and resignation that they’ll probably never get to make something so exquisite.

Aesthete by Le Galion 2015

Aesthete by Le Galion

Top: Davana, mandarin, saffron, incense
Heart: Leather, oud, guaiac wood, castoreum, jasmine
Base: Sandalwood, vanilla, musk

This year Aesthete is celebrating 10 years! I’m celebrating 10 years of it being a staple in my collection and noticing that my bottle is down to about 1/3 have recently put a new bottle at the top of the To Buy List.

One of the excellent things about living in 2025 is that even though Aesthete is a traditional masculine, there is room for EVERYONE to wear this leather bound lovely.

Opening is a smoky incense-heavy woody saffron with a smooth, sandalwood creamy white floral. The oudh is dark and medicinal when it shows up as we head for the heart. Aesthete is rich and earthy but also refined and elevated. I can’t think of another oudh heavy fragrance that is so wearable and still holds such darkness and grit. The dry down sweetens just enough to be a noticeable warming and this earth/wood/oudh/vanilla base pumps out softly for hours and hours. A spritz on chest, nape and one wrist is enough to take me through a day and have whispered remnants next morning.

Aesthete by Le Galion

This is one of my true perfume loves that resurfaces a couple of times a year for many wears.

Does Aesthete sound like you might enjoy it too?
Portia xx

Sunday Question: What’s the Most Interesting Perfume Fact You’ve Learned?

As we explore perfumes over the years, we tend to collect not just bottles but also fascinating details about them. Whether it’s something about ingredients, chemistry or history, those little bits of trivia add even more charm to our hobby.

Saturday Question on Undina's Looking Glass

Saturday Question #283:

What’s the Most Interesting Perfume Fact You’ve Learned?

It doesn’t have to be an obscure or groundbreaking fact – just something that surprised or intrigued you when you first learned it. Maybe it’s something many perfumistas learn sooner or later, but most people outside our hobby wouldn’t know.

My Answer

I recently came across something called “olfactory training” or “smell training,” which involves regularly smelling some distinct scents (e.g., rose, lemon, clove and eucalyptus) and consciously trying to identify them. Research shows that these simple exercises act like a workout for the brain, helping to keep memory and thinking skills sharper over time. Clinical trials with older participants and patients with early Alzheimer’s suggest that this kind of mental engagement can have measurable benefits.

For example, in one recent study, participants aged 60–85 in an “enriched” group were exposed to seven different pleasant scents each week, one per night, for two hours using diffusers, while a control group received only tiny amounts of the scents. After six months, the enriched group showed significantly greater improvement on a word‑list recall test, and brain scans revealed changes in a neural pathway known to decline with age.

It’s not a treatment for dementia, of course, but at least our perfume habit has an excuse for being indulgent: it’s brain exercise! Time for round two: let’s see if I can finally pick out a few notes in the latest batch of samples.

 

What’s the Most Interesting Perfume Fact You’ve Learned?