Month: August 2023

Vetiver Pamplemousse by Zara
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Vetiver Pamplemousse by Zara

Hey Crew, GOSH! It seems so long ago Jin and I were in South Korea. It’s only a couple of months. This year has already been jam packed. Sorry I didn’t get back to writing about Vetiver Pamplemousse EdP quicker. You may remember I wrote about the candle? Well, in Korea on our last night we wandered into a Zara at Seoul Station. coming across the fragrances I asked if they had Vetiver Pamplemousse. Yes, but only the 10ml. Then the SA looked into the computer and found one last 40ml bottle on the other side of town. The shop closes in 40 minutes. HA! Well, we jumped a train, changed trains and ran to the store (about 400m) and arrived with 7 minutes to closing. We were puffing and sweating and laughing. It was excellent fun and took us to a part of town I’d never seen. It had also been gentrified beyond Jin’s wildest dreams. Loads of shopping, eating and living. A really cool part of town.

Not being a new scent it’s probably going to be hard to track Vetiver Pamplemousse down but I promised a review and then never delivered so, um, SOZ. Here it is. Looking at ZARA Australia they still have stock so you might get lucky.

Vetiver Pamplemousse by Zara 2019

Vetiver Pamplemousse Zara

Zara gives these featured accords:
Grapefruit, mandarin, vetiver

Tangy, tart, lip puckeringly bittersweet is man opening impression of the grapefruit/citrus opening. Though it’s sharp it isn’t crazy and the grapefruit settles nicely into a more generic, sweet citrus. The tart doesn’t leave entirely though, keeping it crisp and interesting. As we head into the heart there is also a pithy softness and furriness. So refreshing.

Further into the heart and that citrus becomes those hard boiled Cavendish and Harvey Mixed Fruit Drops. You remember, in the round tins? Just like some of those. It’s such a visceral memory. We used to get those in our Santa sacks and often on long journeys Mum would bring out a pack to shut us up.

My wear gives hardly any of the slightly oily, grassy vetiver that I expect, especially in the open and heart. In Vetiver Pamplemousse it is a support act. If I sniff hard and go really looking it appears but this fragrance is really a citrus affair for the most part.

Vetiver Pamplemousse Zara

As we head for dry down the vetiver does make a bit of a showing. Dry grasses and a little bit twig and torn leaf. An interesting, low key representation of vetiver but not terrible. That sweet citrus and grassiness carry the fragrance quietly after about an hour. If you told me basil was an ingredient and that vegetal musks were involved I’d say that smells about right. The sugariness makes it all feel very 21st century.

This is an easy wear gem. Don’t be expecting to be blown away by their inventiveness. While it’s not a very common fragrance it’s also not a far leap from existing products. The price though, that’s the difference. Longevity and projection are moderate to low but Vetiver Pamplemousse can and could be worn by just about anyone. Simple and smells good.

Do you have a Zara fragrance? Love grapefruit or vetiver?
Portia x

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Saturday Question: What Do You Think About Fragrant Functional Products?

When I recently got an email from Luckyscent that highlighted the new BDK‘s creation – a laundry detergent – I thought about doing a post about it. But as I started putting my thoughts “on paper,” I realized I didn’t have enough to stretch it to a full post, so I decided to discuss it with you as a Saturday Question.

Saturday Question on Undina's Looking Glass

Saturday Question #178:

What Do You Think About Fragrant Functional Products?

It’s not about unscented/scent-free products versus scented ones. I’m asking rather about products that smell like perfumes – either existing ones or abstract scents, as with this laundry detergent.

Do you like the idea? Have you used any? Would you like to try any?

A bonus question: What laundry detergent do you use?

My Answer

Almost a decade ago (time flies!) I published a post Know-how [not to]: Freshen up a linen closet, in which I told a story of how using a perfume-soaked envelope (an unfortunate mailing incident) as a linen closet freshener had almost put me off my favorite Le Labo Rose 31. So, from that time, I never even considered using any of my favorite scents for anything other than their direct purpose.

In the case of this laundry detergent by BDK, Eau de Lessive (Laundry Water?), they didn’t cannibalize any of their scents but instead created a unique composition for this product. Top: Lavender, Bergamot from Italy, Lemon from Italy, Yellow mandarin from Japan, Red Thyme, Cardamom from India, Pepper mint, Nutmeg, CO2 of pink berries; heart: Small grain of Paraguay, Blue Ginger, Cassis, White flowers; base: Ambroxan, Vetiver from Haiti, Benzoin of Siam and White Musks.

Not every perfume has that extensive list of notes; this product might smell great. But the idea of having all my laundry to smell of any specific aroma just doesn’t seem appealing. Additionally, a laundry detergent costing about half of what one might splurge on a high-end shampoo seems too extravagant. I could have considered a smaller bottle intended for hand wash (though, I’m not sure I have enough lingerie that I would be regularly washing manually), but a €35/$36 liter of a detergent intended for a washing machine… It makes me think of that DirecTV commercial “Opulence, I has it.”

But what do I know? It is sold out within less than a week and on backorder at Luckyscent. On the positive side, this is one of the perfume-related products that a perfumista will be able to use up.

I prefer laundry detergents without any scent. For a long time, I used Seventh Generation Free & Clear. It didn’t smell of anything. But I had to stop using it because of the smell. The smell of my clothes 3-4 months after washing that was (e.g., if I were to launder something and put it away because of a season change). It seems that detergent stayed on the clothes and started disintegrated after a while. Now I wash my clothes with Tide Free & Gentle. It keeps my laundry scent-free and allows me to perfume my things with whatever scent I choose, whenever I choose.

BDK Eau De Lessive

What Do You Think About Fragrant Functional Products?

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Saturday Question: Which of Your Current Favorites Was Released In Your Back-to-School Years?

In the US, some schools are “back in session” already, which still feels slightly surprising to me, whose school years always started on September 1st (unless it fell on Sunday). But hearing all the back-to-school ads and conversations inspired this SQ.

 

Saturday Question on Undina's Looking Glass

 

Saturday Question #177:

Which of Your Current Favorites Was Released In Your Back-to-School Years?

Hopefully, a decade (plus-minus a year) is enough disguise for those who don’t feel comfortable disclosing their exact age.

Do you currently have a favorite perfume in your collection that was released between when you started the second grade and when you went back to school for the last time? It doesn’t have to be a perfume that back then you liked (or even knew about its existence). But the bonus question is: when did you get it first?

Hint: You can use Fragrantica search to set the From/To year criterion if you can’t easily think of any specific perfume.

My Answer

Surprisingly, my collection has more than one favorite perfume from that era But let’s go with one – Chanel Coco. I didn’t know it when I was going to school. I think I knew of Chanel No 5 (though I haven’t tried it before much later – and I still don’t like it on my skin), but no other names of perfumes from that brand were even mentioned when I was growing up.

After I moved to the US, I tried many of Chanel’s mainstream perfumes (one of my relatives had them all), but I didn’t like any of them… until about 14 years ago when, thanks to a generous SA at Nordstrom, I got samples of several Chanel perfumes and fell in love with Coco and No 19. In 2010, Coco was my first full bottle purchase from Chanel ever. And this is one of those perfumes that still wows me every time I wear it.

Rusty and Chanel Coco

How about you?

 

Which of Your Current Favorites Was Released In Your Back-to-School Years?

Madagascan Jasmine by Grandiflora
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Madagascan Jasmine by Grandiflora

Hi there ULGers, Grandiflora is an Aussie brand coming from a very cool, world renowned flower shop in Sydney. Owned and operated by the gorgeous and so friendly Saskia Havekes. She is a florist to the smart set and large corporations, author and creative director/owner of a fragrance house. Some people are like being around a light filled vessel, Saskia is definitely one of them from the little I know and lot I’ve heard. Actually, she’s one of the very few icons that I’m yet to hear a bad word about. In my journey through samples and decants this year I came across an 8ml Madagascan Jasmine from Surrender To Chance. I remember using the first couple of ml and instantly buying a bottle, and later a backup when the bottles were being changed. So, I thought I’d share my love for it with you all today.

Madagascan Jasmine by Grandiflora 2015

Madagascan Jasmine by Grandiflora

Grandiflora gives these featured accords:
Top: Mango, Green Tropical Fruits
Heart: Jasmine (Madagascan), White Flowers, Green Foliage
Base: Musk, Smoky Accord, Roasted Cacao

Jasmine, jasmine, jasmine. Not the heady, breathy, creamy ylang and sweet version of so much perfumery but jasmine like the smell of putting your head in the flowering vine. Yes, it does have that fruity hit running through it and the greenery that jasmine so often holds. They make it seem alive and just bloomed in the evening but now it’s a cool spring morning. Chilled and super fragrant.

The heart remains all white flowers and a touch of greenery. That huge opening softens considerable after about 10 minutes and becomes an insistent, pretty white floral. Still fragrant but less over the top. The heart is my favourite part of Madagascan Jasmine. I’ve told this story before but when I was growing up there was a large jasmine growing over our side fence. In spring the scent would travel and I could smell it from the top of our driveway, getting stronger and stronger as I neared the house. The heart is like that scent as I’m walking down the drive. If I went to the vine the sound of bees buzzing would accompany the scent. Madagascan Jasmine is like reliving those days.

Madagascan Jasmine by Grandiflora July 23

Though I fully support everyone wearing whatever they love, this feels like a feminine leaning fragrance. If you are a guy who either loves jasmine or is confident enough to go against modern traditional type then Madagascan Jasmine will smell so fabulous on you. PLUS you will fragrantly stand head and shoulders above most others. Longevity is good and after the first half hour or so projection is low to moderate.

Do you know Madagascan Jasmine or the Grandiflora fragrance house?
Portia x

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Saturday Question: Do You Have Any Perfumes on Your “To Try” List?

I’m calling all your lemmings!

Saturday Question on Undina's Looking Glass

Saturday Question #176:

Do You Have Any Perfumes on Your “To Try” List?

Let’s be realistic: it’s not a hypothetical question that calls for something like “original Daim Blond” or “pre-reformulation EL Private Collection.” But are there any currently available perfumes that you haven’t tried yet but would like to?

My Answer

In the last couple of years, I rarely feel an urge to try anything specific. I do still enjoy trying new (for me) things, but I rarely care for anything specific – and even less so if I’d need to pay for a sample.

So, I don’t have a formal “to try” list now. But if I think about it, I can come up with several perfumes I am curious about: several recent releases from Amouage – Guidance, Lineage, Purpose and Search (though, I’m not sure I like the names), Armani Magenta Tanzanite (though I wasn’t a huge fan of the previous “stones” in the collection) and Ormonde Jayne Sakura and Fearless (and while I am at it, any other new perfumes OJ released in the last 2 years).

 

How about you?

Do You Have Any Perfumes on Your “To Try” List?

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Saturday Question: What Was the Last Perfume in Your Collection that Wowed You?

Do you know how hard it is to put some questions in a short form? Something simple like “What is Your Favorite Beach Scent?” or “Name Your Top 10 Birch Tar Perfumes” is easy. But every time I try to ask something more complex (in form), I risk either running a 3-line question or to confusing you all. I just hope you read my explanations and do not rush to answer based on the first impression.

Saturday Question on Undina's Looking Glass

Saturday Question #175:

What Was the Last Perfume in Your Collection that Wowed You?

So, I’m not asking about the last perfume that you loved and bought. We have great collections, and I assume we like most of the fragrances we own. I’m asking about the case when you sprayed on one of your favorites from your fragrant wardrobe and thought to yourself: “Wow! It is so beautiful!” (or something along the line).

What was that perfume? When?

My Answer

This year isn’t the easiest for my family, and I noticed that my perception of perfume is slightly skewed: more often than I’d like it to, I put on a scent I own and think: “It is nice, but I remember liking/loving it much more.” It doesn’t go into the territory where I dislike those perfumes, but I can’t help feeling slightly disappointed by not being enamored of it as I used to be. So, these days, when I do admire perfume I’m wearing, I feel especially grateful to it.

The last time it happened was a couple of days ago when I reached out to Atelier Cologne Clémentine California. I always liked and enjoyed wearing it, but when I bought it six years ago, I thought it was in the same category as the other two citrus perfumes that I liked from the brand (When Life Gives You Clementines, Enjoy Them). Since then, it grew on me, becoming my favorite Atelier Cologne perfume. But that last time, as I put it on, it was that “Wow” reaction that I hope for every time I spray on my SOTD but don’t get often.

Rusty and Atelier Cologne Clementine California

How about you?

 

What Was the Last Perfume in Your Collection that Wowed You?

Gilded by Boujee Bougies NEW! NEW! NEW!
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Gilded by Boujee Bougies NEW! NEW! NEW!

Hi Crew, If you are a regular reader then you’ll know I hit London in April to celebrate a couple of important birthdays with friends. It was a whirlwind trip of 11 days from my doorstep to arriving home. That meant 7 full days on the ground. One of those days I jumped a train or two from Green Square to Leighton Buzzard and met my buddies of the Olfiction crew, Nick and Pia. They are the masterminds behind the Boujee Bougies candle range that has now also become a perfume range. Seeing their headquarters and then having dinner at their home was so exciting and yet curiously mundane. It was as if we did it all the time and had lived next door for years and this was a regular catch up. They and their crew were so easy to be with, plus I got to smell the new perfume range. Gilded is the one that the scentbloggosphere has been going ape shit over so I thought I’d give it some wears and write you all a post.

I’m sniffing from a large decant because at the time they weren’t ready for sale and I couldn’t buy the whole range. This was a gift. Fortunately Jin and I are back in the UK in November so hopefully I can remedy the situation and properly shop.

Gilded by Boujee Bougies 2023

Boujee Bougies give these featured accords:
Top: Lemon, Saffron, Gold accord
Heart: Frankincense oil, Frankincense resin, Carnation, Cedar Leaf, Beeswax absolute
Base: Myrrh, Cedarwood, Labdanum, Leather, Civet, Musk

The opening citrus/metallic is something I’ve never smelled before. It doesn’t stay more than a couple of minutes but it is eye popping. The heart takes over and incense reigns supreme. It says cedar leaf in the notes but for me the scent is very bay leaf, I wonder if it’s the carnation clove-iness giving me cooking throwbacks. I can understand why everyone is going mad for Gilded. It smells like early niche, those gorgeous, mind-blowing, quilted layers of a richly furnished middle eastern dream.

Further into the heart my Roman Catholic upbringing is being revisited in the smoky prayers of Benediction, which always seemed like such a pagan rite to me. A man, led by acolytes, wearing a sumptuous sequinned gown and hat with a smoke stack pouring out scented fumes that forgive all our sins.

As we head towards dry down Gilded becomes a little darker and more feral. Animalic but not a tiger pit. More like a bear cave used for hibernation but now it’s summer and you are just getting some scented remnants of the winter/spring inhabitants. The incenses stay till the very last gasp, overlaying all other parts with a soft smoky patina.

Gilded Boujee Bougies

Gilded it gorgeous. Totally unisex. Fragrant but not overbearing. After the initial hour of spectacular it calms to a quiet, introverted beauty that would be wearable even to dinner, films or work. Obviously, the more you spritz the bigger it will be. I’m hard pressed to think of a perfumista who would not love this.

Have I piqued your interest?
Portia xx