January 2, 2024 by AustralianPerfumeJunkies

Going Back to my Full Bottle Wardrobe

Hey there ULGers, Welcome to 2024. Hoping it’s a safe, prosperous, fun, comfortable and fragrant year ahead for us all, maybe with a side order of delightfully preposterous. What are the three things we are meant to wish each other? Health, Wealth and Contentment! I wish them for you, and for us.

Maybe you know, last year I tried to scale back my perfume samples and decants. I’m still to do a final tally but in my mind it sits at around 300 thunks for the year. While that sounds like a lot, and I have emptied a few small boxes of them, it also feels like it hardly made a dent. Compounded by my continued purchasing. Yeah, it’s clearly an illness. Anyway, now I’m free to roam the perfume wardrobe again and it is daunting! I want to wear everything at once, yet curiously I’m also so overwhelmed that going through the cupboards and remembering what I have is too much. So I’m wearing the things I can see. There’s the grab tray, actually in my wardrobe. Also, all around my sewing machine and desk there are a bunch of bottles that are either new or awaiting reincorporation into the cupboards. So that’s where I’ve been spritzing from.

Going Back to my Full Bottle Wardrobe

There also seems to be a gold theme running through my spritz selection so far in 2024.

Aqua Allegoria Neroli Vetiver by Guerlain

Yes, this got the gong for New Years Eve and so it was my first fragrance for 2024 too. I love its sweet juicy opening and smooth white floral heart made extra fresh and green by a dry vetiver, all over a lovely laundry musk base. Jin and I had a VERY lazy night. We had duck Korean table BarBQ at home with all the side dishes and some pork chipolatas for extras. While we were eating one of our besties Phil dropped in on his way home from family and that was really nice. Then we lay around the couch with Paris the greyhound watching both the Exotic Marigold Hotel films back to back. After midnight I took Paris out for a walk and then we hit the hay. VERY chill NYE.

Soleil Brulant by Tom Ford

This was a gift from one of my dearest, Ainslie Walker: Scentsmith. It’s a honeyed white floral with resinous amber base but there is also this delightfully strange greenery. It’s leaning bitter and astringent and that creates this alluring contrapuntal effect. Also unusual for a Tom Ford it isn’t a top heavy beauty that crumbles to banality in 30 minutes. It lasts all day and has some interesting sideways movements. I’m not sure why this hasn’t become one of the most talked about fragrances of the 2020s. The first morning of 2024 dawned cool and cloudy so this was a lovely rich choice.

Montana femme by Claude Montana

This bloody bottle doesn’t fit anywhere in the cupboards so is constantly out. the pic doesn’t show it well but they’re over 1/3 gone. A full tilt hark back to the days of perfumey perfumes. An aldehydic floral top and sweet woodsy amber base. Not for the faint of heart and smalls bloody fabulous. It really does smell like shoulder pads and jewel bright peplums with big hair. It’s beautiful in the cold weather but in the humidity and heat of Sydney summer it blooms even more gorgeously. If only it came in a less cool and annoying bottle.

So how have you spritzed in the new year?
Portia xx

December 5, 2023 by AustralianPerfumeJunkies

Trastevere by Pantheon Roma

Hey there Crew, Trastevere by Pantheon Roma was a blind buy decant from Surrender To Chance a while ago, so long that I don’t remember buying it. On looking it up it was only early 2022. Anyway it got an early spritz and then put in the already full to overflowing Must Try This Again box. So now I’m going through that box and there are SO MANY good things hiding in it. Many of which ring no bells in my memory. Knowing in the Northern Hemisphere it’s starting to get VERY chill up there about now I thought something cozy might just hit the spot. I can also imagine this being a perfect Holiday Season gift to yourself.

Oh, and that bottle looks bloody gorgeous too. That’s the 100ml bottle, the 50ml is clear glass and very squat.

Trastevere by Pantheon Roma 2015

Pantheon Roma gives these featured accords:
Top: Vanilla, Licorice
Heart: Vanilla, Caramel, Jasmine
Base: Vanilla, Davana, Chestnut Cream

They also write this: It is the evocation of when, in 1500, the district of Trastevere it was considered “the oven of Rome” and was teeming with bakeries and young girls. Let’s imagine one walking slowly through the narrow streets of the neighborhood, and the scents of sweets and bread come out from the small windows. Warm, gourmand olfactory construction: it moves around the tones of Davana (Artemisia Pallens), whose taste characteristics of licorice and coffee are enhanced here by tones of chestnuts and vanilla. A truly extraordinary jasmine accompanies the bouquet.

OM G! Cookies, and licorice all sorts. Trastevere opens like them exactly. It’s spooky and fabulous.

Not long before the caramel makes its presence known, smelling just like a Worther’s tastes. I’m smiling from ear to ear. This is ALL my favourite snack foods in a fragrance. YUMMO!

All that happened in the first couple of minutes. Trastevere’s opening is amazing and delightful but TBH it’s not how I want to smell through a day.

Here’s the cool thing. At about the 15 minute mark the direct correlation to lollies softens. Yes, still very vanilla, a little custardy, but much more fine fragrance smelling. You will still get your gourmand on but with much less chance of nasal diabetes. Trastevere becomes a very elegant amber with gourmand overtones. Beautiful, wearable and dead sexy.

Leaning seriously traditional feminine but wearing Trastevere was lovely for me. No worries, I love the idea of fragrantly messing with the binary. Longevity and projection are moderate plus.

Though not a new fragrance, and already available at the discounters, I thought you might like to know of something that I’ve not seen much chatter about,
Sound good?
Portia xx

November 21, 2023 by AustralianPerfumeJunkies

Uden Overdose by Xerjoff

Hey Hey Crew, Xerjoff Uden Overdose. I’ve got a vial and wanted to be excited by a Xerjoff. Had read some nice things about this being a winner. Maybe I’m missing something, it could need to be spritzed to get the full effect, maybe my body is rejecting the beautiful bits. It’s just so cheap smelling on me. Like a 1990s Diesel release. Not ragging on Diesel, they are cheap and cheerful and do their thing so well at their price point, punching well above often.

Uden Overdose, 50ml is over AU$400 here.

I know, I’m getting boring complaining about price but for what I smell here, on me, in this moment (yesterday too). I don’t get it.

Uden Overdose by Xerjoff 2018

Xerjoff Uden Overdose

Xerjoff gives these featured accords:
Top: Lemon, Bergamot
Heart: Tobacco Flowers, Ginger, Coffee
Base: Amber, Musk

OK, I smell a little citrus up the top. The tobacco flowers smell like scratchy woods. In the heart I smell some coffee and more dark oily woods. The base is more of those ubiquitous woods and a spiky, labdanum rich amber. None of it is AWFUL, this is wearable. A bit scratchy and average, maybe it smells a bit lazy. Anyway, I’m disappointed.

That late, on its way to dry down amber base is nice. It’s no Pierre Guillaume amber, but it is doing a good job of amber-ing.

Maybe my hopes were just too high? or expectations?

Please tell me I’m missing a whole piece of the story and that this is not the ride you’re getting.

Edit: This morning I woke and thought, before I’d become fully conscious, “What is that beautiful amber?” Just a whisper but so beautiful. Warm, honeyed, not too sweet and hints of chocolate. If only my whole wear had been this gorgeous.

Portia

PS I’m away but will come and read/answer comments ASAP.

November 7, 2023 by AustralianPerfumeJunkies

Twill Rose by Les Parfums de Rosine

Hi there ULGers, Twill Rose by Les Parfums de Rosine was made for the gents. Don’t believe the hype. It’s totally unisex. Nice that Les Parfums de Rosine did an act of inclusion. I remember why this decant is in the collection. Back in 2014 Michael and I were in Paris and he bought bottles of this, the extrait of it and another Rosine gents release. While having bought my fill of perfume I stood and ached with wanting to own them. The next time I was in the Rosine store they had been DCd. I was devastated and bought my decant from Surrender To Chance so I would at least have a smidge to refer to. Lately I rediscovered the decant and now I’m going to use it all up and enjoy the having, without worrying about the saving. This way I’ll also have a reference post for later, and you will have a memory, through my nose, too.

Twill Rose by Les Parfums de Rosine 2006

Parfumo gives these featured accords:
Top: Galbanum, Green notes, Pink pepper, Mandarin orange
Heart: Rose, Violet
Base: Woods, Patchouli

SOOOOO green! This is heavenly on open. It’s a nose full of greenery and a little broken twig. Sadly as a solo scent this lasts a minute and then my nose notices the familiar sweet sizzle of the pink pepper berry and some fruitiness that doesn’t smell at all like mandarin.

The rose is fruity, like those gorgeous roasted pears and rose. Still there is greenery, slightly dark, flowing underneath. There’s also something resin-ish. Not smoky incense, vanilla or labdanum but like tears of elemi? I am not sure but it brings the fragrance together while also smoothing it out. The heart is gorgeous. I can see a man wearing it but it’s lovely enough for anyone. WHY is this DCd? It must have had rotten dales. deep into the heart I am getting sugar crystals above everything else, so interesting. Not confectionary or candy floss, just putting those coffee sugar crystals on your tongue. Still through the heart and well into what must be the base pear/rose/greenery is the centre accord.

If there is patchouli it’s not like patchouli for me. Not like any patchouli I know, from head shop to the clean I don’t know this. There are some greenish woods but even they are not a big deal.

Am I terribly sad to not have a bottle? No, but I am a little sad. Twill Rose is lovely. I would have bought a bottle.

Did you ever try it?
Portia xx

October 24, 2023 by AustralianPerfumeJunkies

Rake n Ruin by BeauFort London

Hi there ULGers, Rake & Ruin by BeauFort London has been a First in Fragrance decant lying around this apartment for ages, years. It gets picked up and then put back, over and over again. So while I’m doing this New Idea 2023 thunking challenge I finally bit the bullet and sprayed the half that was left all over myself. WOWZERS! It’s so riotously over the top! You must try this fabulous freak.

Rake & Ruin by BeauFort London 2018

Featured accords:
Top: Smoke, Angelica, Gin, Juniper, Sichuan Pepper, Pink Pepper, Licorice, Coriander, Orange, Lemon
Heart: Smoke, Cypress, Pine needles, Castoreum, Cade oil, Labdanum, Costus, Orris, Violet
Base: Smoke, Woody Notes, Ambrarome, Sandalwood

Smoky woods with a side order of peppery blue cheese. So outrageous and good in the Sydney heat.

The heart calms down a little and yes smoke but now it’s BarBQ smoke with some delightfully charring meat and twiggy greenery.

Dry down is BarBQ Shapes. It’s a spicy biscuit in Australia, don’t know if you have them in the world. Drizzled over charred wood, smoke and maybe a little burning tyre.

Sounds ghastly? It’s not.

This is so fabulous. A true freak of fragrance.

Do I want it? Yes

Would I ever wear it? Probably not

HANG ON…. Maybe I would wear it. Do this crew do 10 or 15ml travels?

Rake & Ruin is something you at least need to try. Just for the fun of wearing something so wholly OTT.

Have you? Would you?
Portia xx

October 10, 2023 by AustralianPerfumeJunkies

Perfumista by Anatole Lebreton

Hi there ULGers, Do you remember in 2019/20 first reading or hearing about the audacity of Anatole Lebreton to make a perfume named for us? Perfumista?!? Honestly, the few people I talked to were in agreeance that it would definitely bomb because how could he encapsulate EVERYTHING we would expect from such a title. So I ignored it. Then, a while ago, I saw it on the Surrender To Chance site and was so curious to find out what I’d dismissed so easily. Into the cart it went and made it all the way through checkout with a few other things that piqued my interest. Here it has sat, unloved and forlorn, awaiting the attention of this perfumista. Today is the day. Please come on a journey of discovery with me.

Perfumista by Anatole Lebreton 2019

The Anatole Lebreton site gives the featured accords:
Top: Pear, Plum, Raspberry
Heart: Bulgarian Rose, Indian Jasmin, Patchouli
Base: Virginy Cerdarwood, Peru Balsam, Musk

The opening is like a vintage chypre. Aldehydic fruity floral, clean and clear as a bell. GOSH! it even has that slightly over ripe fruit and feral backbeat you’d expect from vintage but one that has been kept perfectly. There is even a touch of the hairsprays that make vintage feel so glammed up and ready to hit the town.

The heart is jammy rose with some other florals but I don’t smell jasmine per se, more a bouquet with maybe some bulb flowers, lilac, peony and marigold. The word that keeps popping into my head sniffing the heart is petal-y. There’s a soft, fluffy, powderiness like rubbing flowers against your cheek. Though not a big bombastic scent, Perfumista is quietly noticeable through the heart. That jammy rose also has some earthy greenery as we head towards dry down.

The dry down brings back the fruits (now canned) over a woody, smoothly resinous base. It’s a surprising revival and makes the last couple of hours very sniffable. Get up close and breathe deep. You’ll be amply rewarded.

Well, that was 200% more glorious than expected. A real modern reimagining of a vintage ride for a true perfumista. I do love to be proved wrong and thrilled by a scent. I”ve only worn it three times but right now a bottle is right near the top of my To Buy List. Why am I so late to this brand?

Though anyone could and can wear it Perfumista veers heavily traditional femme. Longevity is good and the first hour, more really, are quite fragrant before softening into a streamlined, still interesting, dry down.

Do you remember when Perfumista launched? Were you intrigued or dismissive?
Portia xx

September 30, 2023 by AustralianPerfumeJunkies

Saturday Question: What Was Your First Job, Did You Buy Scent?

Hello Fellow Fumies,

At ULG we have a Saturday Question. Everyone gets to chime in with an answer, chat with other responders and it’s a fun event each week. Taking sides never means taking offence and everyone keeps it respectful and light, even though we can sometimes trawl the depths.

The idea is you’ll see it on the weekend or chime in through the week. Hopefully you will come back regularly and see if anyone has responded to your comment and you can reply to them. The aim is to generate real conversation and connection even though we are scattered around the globe.

Just to be clear, it’s Portia hosting today’s Saturday question. Undina is doing stuff and asked me to fill in this week. Can’t wait to read and respond to all your comments. Feel free to chat to each other too. Let’s see how many comments we can accrue.

Saturday Question: What Was Your First Job, Did You Buy Scent?

Ahhhhh! Memories of my teen years, how I came to be who and where and what I am. You all know how much I love discovering things about you all, so here’s a piece of me. Please share a piece of you in the comments.

My Answer:

Even before it was legal for me to work I spent my Thursday nights and Saturdays (after sport) sweeping up hair, making coffees, washing heads and selling tobacco products at a local hairdresser/tobacconist. The one thing I wanted more than anything was financial freedom to choose what I got. It was $small/hour (cash in hand) and at the age of 13 having $small per week PLUS my pocket money from Dad for house chores (which I did soooo grudgingly, what a shit kid i was!) I was the richest kid I knew. The joy of being able to take myself to the cinema or McDonalds (which was my first proper job when I came of working age) without having to beg for money was a big incentive. Having enough to buy my choices in clothes, though Mum enjoyed clothes shopping with me so much that I rarely had to pay.

On the naughty side, by 13 I already looked like an adult so I could buy booze and cigarettes. Being able to buy the people I loved gifts was another amazing thing that I’ve never lost the joy of. So I didn’t buy scent for myself but I did buy it for my Mum a little later on when I was old enough to be a Squirt Bitch at the department store. Those early days she got a soap, some powder with a big puffer and/or lotion from our local chemist (drug store) that would come in a boxed set, boxes were best because easiest to wrap. My Dad was easy, he wore Tabac Original and that always came in a sensible pack of scent, soap on a rope and deodorant.

My Saturday Question to you is:

What Was Your First Job, Did You Buy Scent?

September 26, 2023 by AustralianPerfumeJunkies

Spice Blend by DIOR

Hey there ULGers, With my recent Vanilla Diorama came a sample of DIOR Spice Blend in its gorgeous box. They have definitely gone down market from the original 8ml miniatures and now we get a 2ml sample but at least it’s now a SPRITZ! YAY! That means we get to smell exactly what the fragrance will smell like as it’s jetted out of our full bottles. So though they aren’t as glam they are better for us perfume peeps to really know what’s coming. Also, 8ml is quite a lot of perfume. 2ml is exactly enough to get me giddy with excitement over a couple of wears and leave me wanting more.

Spice Blend by DIOR 2019

Parfumo gives these featured accords:
Bay rum, Ginger, Madagascar pepper, Pink pepper, Cinnamon, Rum absolute

The opening moments of Spice Blend are delightfully boozy with a sharp spicy flare up. I say flare up but in fact the spices are cool and still in their bottles but fragrant and portentous. It’s spicy but not overwhelming. This excitement lasts better than most openings and doesn’t really calm for nearly 30 minutes with only a few changes.

Once we hot the heart are still in a softly spicy place, maybe walking past a spice cart. Now I feel like unnamed resins are making a smooth play that changes the feeling of Spice Blend to a more sophisticated, less dazzle dazzle adventure. The heart stays linear for a while, the next hour or so. At this point still fragrant, done in the very laid back, under the radar gorgeousness of DIOR Prive style. My feeling is that you’ll still stand out but moderately. If someone passes you or spends a moment sitting near you they will be enamoured by Spice Blend. It’s different enough to elicit comment but similar enough not to be obnoxious. It’s at this point that I can smell the cinnamon as plain as day, quite a surprise that it’s taken so long to hoist its flag. It’s a fun moment that I can only really smell/taste when huffing up close and it remains till we head towards dry down.

What I find at the end is a sweet, resinous wash that fades to a better than me scent hours and hours later. For something so low key the longevity is excellent.

If you have not got a spicy, booze laden fragrance in your collection then Spice Blend could definitely be the one to fill that niche.

Is Spice Blend lovely? Yes. Beautifully blended? Yes. Does it make me yearn for a bottle? Yes. Are there other fragrances out there that scratch a similar itch? Yes, many, even a few in my collection. Is it so special that I really need to buy it, even in 40ml form? So here is my conundrum: Do I lay down money for something that delights me but in all reality will probably be passed over in favour of others that I’ve loved and worn for years? Or does it eclipse them and I wear Spice Blend over them, relegating old loves to the dreaded “love but don’t reach for” category?

Have you tried Spice Blend?
Portia xx

September 12, 2023 by AustralianPerfumeJunkies

Pride by Der Duft

Hi Ho ULGers, Der Duft is a German brand that seems to be asking some interesting, left of centre perfumers to come work on their fragrances. Pride is by Miguel Matos. The brand is new since 2020 and from what I see started with five scents and has added five more since.

Der Duft Pride was a BIG surprise. I grabbed my 2ml Surrender To Chance decant and spritzed it heavily without even checking the notes list. Don’t know exactly what I was expecting but this sure isn’t it.

Pride by Der Duft 2020

Parfumo gives these featured accords:
Patchouli, Sandalwood, Bergamot, Cashmeran, Jasmine, Moss, Narcissus, Amber, Carrot seed

The Pride opening is earthy, grasslike, head shop patchouli and a happily dark narcissus. It’s thick and molten, but for all its density Pride is surprisingly wearable and non confrontational. Sure, if OG style patchouli is not your thing then you may be overwhelmed for the first minute but for me it is gorgeous and fun.

The heart stays patch focussed but the woods come through with a creamy flourish. They are that very dry sandalwood and vanilla rich amber woods. I’m sure there are bit players I’m missing here but that’s the gist.

Having spent the day wearing Pride, with a lunchtime respritz to relive that ridiculously fab opening, I’m smitten. Dry down is a dark, mossy patchouli amber. Very old school reminiscent but done in a 21st century niche way. I could never imagine a modern designer putting this in a bottle. Pride is just not general public enough,. Maybe one of the more interesting mass-tige brands like D S & Durga or Comme des Garcons but this may even be a bit too raw for them.

Unisex but a definite lean towards modern masculine. Longevity is excellent and projection good for the first couple of hours. It’s not big but it is persistent and very other. This is the kind of fragrance I imagine a very cool suit wearing, a slightly different cut of fragrance, interesting but not showy. People may not even know why they want to be near you.

Pride is definitely on my next Fragrances & Art order, did you know they do Tax Free for international and have FREE SHIPPING if you order over a very reasonable amount?

Are you feeling my excitement?
Portia x

August 29, 2023 by AustralianPerfumeJunkies

Vetiver Pamplemousse by Zara

Hey Crew, GOSH! It seems so long ago Jin and I were in South Korea. It’s only a couple of months. This year has already been jam packed. Sorry I didn’t get back to writing about Vetiver Pamplemousse EdP quicker. You may remember I wrote about the candle? Well, in Korea on our last night we wandered into a Zara at Seoul Station. coming across the fragrances I asked if they had Vetiver Pamplemousse. Yes, but only the 10ml. Then the SA looked into the computer and found one last 40ml bottle on the other side of town. The shop closes in 40 minutes. HA! Well, we jumped a train, changed trains and ran to the store (about 400m) and arrived with 7 minutes to closing. We were puffing and sweating and laughing. It was excellent fun and took us to a part of town I’d never seen. It had also been gentrified beyond Jin’s wildest dreams. Loads of shopping, eating and living. A really cool part of town.

Not being a new scent it’s probably going to be hard to track Vetiver Pamplemousse down but I promised a review and then never delivered so, um, SOZ. Here it is. Looking at ZARA Australia they still have stock so you might get lucky.

Vetiver Pamplemousse by Zara 2019

Zara gives these featured accords:
Grapefruit, mandarin, vetiver

Tangy, tart, lip puckeringly bittersweet is man opening impression of the grapefruit/citrus opening. Though it’s sharp it isn’t crazy and the grapefruit settles nicely into a more generic, sweet citrus. The tart doesn’t leave entirely though, keeping it crisp and interesting. As we head into the heart there is also a pithy softness and furriness. So refreshing.

Further into the heart and that citrus becomes those hard boiled Cavendish and Harvey Mixed Fruit Drops. You remember, in the round tins? Just like some of those. It’s such a visceral memory. We used to get those in our Santa sacks and often on long journeys Mum would bring out a pack to shut us up.

My wear gives hardly any of the slightly oily, grassy vetiver that I expect, especially in the open and heart. In Vetiver Pamplemousse it is a support act. If I sniff hard and go really looking it appears but this fragrance is really a citrus affair for the most part.

As we head for dry down the vetiver does make a bit of a showing. Dry grasses and a little bit twig and torn leaf. An interesting, low key representation of vetiver but not terrible. That sweet citrus and grassiness carry the fragrance quietly after about an hour. If you told me basil was an ingredient and that vegetal musks were involved I’d say that smells about right. The sugariness makes it all feel very 21st century.

This is an easy wear gem. Don’t be expecting to be blown away by their inventiveness. While it’s not a very common fragrance it’s also not a far leap from existing products. The price though, that’s the difference. Longevity and projection are moderate to low but Vetiver Pamplemousse can and could be worn by just about anyone. Simple and smells good.

Do you have a Zara fragrance? Love grapefruit or vetiver?
Portia x

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Going Back to my Full Bottle Wardrobe

Going Back to my Full Bottle Wardrobe