Reviews

Hussar by Aquaflor Firenze
by

Hussar by Aquaflor Firenze

Hiya Fellow Fulies, Hussar by Aquaflor Firenze came to my attention through my mate Clayton Illolahia. He is the genius behind now gone What Men Should Smell Like blog. We started blogging here in Sydney within two months of each other and have spent a lot of time around the perfume traps. He went on to study perfume and is now working with the Michael Edwards Fragrances of the World team. Nowadays he’s really busy travelling the world six months a year. On the occasions we get together to sniff his favorites from the latest adventures he only gives me the most standout to his unbelievably well curated bring home bottles. Seriously, he’s lucky to pick five from the hundreds he smells at each event. So that’s how impressive he found this scent and through our sniff I too fell madly and wildly in love. I think you can only buy these fragrances from the online store, shipping is VERY expensive. It might be cheaper to have a Florence vacation, worth it.

Hussar by Aquaflor Firenze

Hussar by Aquaflor Firenze

Aquaflor Firenze gives these featured accords:
Head: Citrus, Cloves
Heart: Jasmine, Leather
Base: Birch, Vetiver, Amber, Vanilla

Hussar is a Russian Leather. I learned something today. Russian Leather is named for the Russian military boots leather. How bloody interesting is that? So last fortnight I spoke of the CHANEL Cuir de Russie which alludes to the saddles and in particular the soap the Russians (and now the world) used to keep them supple and make them last decades. Quite different takes on the Russian Leather experience, very cool.

The opening is sharp, clove heavy and vanilla prominent. From the outset Hussar is more forthright and has much greater sillage than CdR. Also, it feels less refined and exclusive. Rugged but not rough. Think of Twilight’s Edward and Jacob. Hussar is definitely the Jacob.

Hussar by Aquaflor Firenze

It’s not long till the dark, smoky leather pushes forward and becomes the star player. Somewhere in the heart we get this unbelievably glorious lipstick type orris, it’s a welcome surprise and adds layers to the fragrance ride. Spicy vanilla rich amber and smoky leather with a very slight soapy texture takes us to dry down which pumps out for hours before fade.

So good. Also, this does not feel like a winter leather. It’s more a shoulder season and I think it might sing beautifully in the heat.

Do you have a favourite leather?
Portia xx

Coromandel and Cuir de Russie extraits by CHANEL
by

Coromandel and Cuir de Russie extraits by CHANEL

Hi there ULGers, With the unsubstantiated but persistent rumors of the exclusif extraits being DCd I’ve started to panic. Late last week I popped into my nearest CHANEL Beauty store and got a porcelain each of Coromandel and Cuir de Russie. At the time I also swiped them. One on each forearm. Can we talk about a blissful afternoon and evening of greedily huffing at both arms…

Yes I am aware of how spendy they are and also aware that I’ll probably never have courage to open them. Already I have unopened 1932, Gardenia, Jersey and No 22 extraits. You’re right, I never smell them because of it BUT the joy I get from taking out those boxes and dreaming about wearing them is very satisfying. Honestly, my need to open another bottle of perfume is not so strong, especially as some of my REALLY important loves are just evaporating away and getting just a couple of wears a year. Some of my older Guerlain bottles like Vega, Moscou and Cuir Beluga are definitely wasting away.

Coromandel and Cuir de Russie extraits by CHANEL

Coromandel and Cuir de Russie extraits by CHANEL

If you want to see note lists etc here is the link to CHANEL USA. The extraits are 15ml and currently US$305, so $20/ml. It’s expensive but not so outrageously so compared to a lot of the schlock that’s being hustled for much more.

Coromandel

Patchouli, thick and rich and sparkling golden like it’s been scrubbed of everything earthy and 1970s. It’s still patchouli but this is classy stuff. There are other bit players that help create the whole but what really matters is the amber that has been cooled and aerated by orris. So what I smell is patchouli/orris/amber that misses a lot of the vanillic sweetness and holds just a tiny little bit feral, like microscopic underpinnings. What happens is it makes this whole, utterly perfect scent that has been blended into submission just a fraction rebellious. It’s so clever and beautiful. That single swipe in the early afternoon was still pumping soft wisps at lunch next day before I showered.

Cuir de Russie

So while I was very horsey in my youth and rode, mucked out, collected horse apples and groomed them for years. My parents sent me to riding classes every weekend and made the farm owners send me to help do all the dirty work so I’d stop wanting a horse of my own. They needn’t have worried. Once I changed schools my Saturdays were for sport.
Anyway, Cuir de Russie is funny. It smells like a brand new pair of patent leather shoes AND it smells like a tack room. It is this super weird blend of two worlds and it lures me in every time. Obviously if you love Beast Mode leathers then this safe as houses baby will bore you to tears. Here’s the thing though, sometimes I want to smell understated but still fragrant enough that I remember my perfumista-hood. Leather and lightly tropical white flowers, kind of aftershave-y. NO, that’s not right, kind of SHAVE CREAMY but subtle, low key and beautiful. The vanilla and rose don’t play big parts for me but right down the dying breaths I can tell they have been playing all along.

While I’m not currently in a position to buy these, in the near future more discretionary funds will be available and I’m hoping CHANEL holds off long enough for me to get there and at least get Coromandel and Cuir de Russie. Oh, and Bois des Iles.

So which CHANEL extrait would you throw money on the counter for?
Portia xx

 

Arancia Di Capri by Acqua di Parma: Blu Mediterraneo Series
by

Arancia Di Capri by Acqua di Parma: Blu Mediterraneo Series

Hey there ULGers, You are ensconced in your mid-summer heatwaves so I went looking through my samples for something suitable. Maybe, I thought, we could sniff something you may have forgotten. Then my eyes spied the glorious blue of Acqua di Parma Arancia Di Capri. The fragrance is turning 25 this year, that’s a really good run. Must be something wonderful in the bottle?

My sample came with an order from First in Fragrance a couple of years ago. I remember spritzing, liking enough to keep the sample and then it languished in a box.

Arancia Di Capri by Acqua di Parma: Blu Mediterraneo Series 1999

Arancia Di Capri by Acqua di Parma: Blu Mediterraneo Series 1999

Acqua Di Parma gives the gfeatured accords:
Top: Italian Sweet Orange, Italian Mandarin, Italian Lemon
Heart: Petit Grain, Cardamom
Base: Caramel, Musk

Bittersweet citrus and smooth greenery open up Arancia Di Capri. It’s a beautifully worked reissue of the old trope. Very cologne-ish and refreshing. There is an added extra of cool earthiness like walking through dappled shade in lightly wooded, well mulched parklands. This opening lasts much longer than expected and I really get to enjoy it before we move on.

As we enter the heart the citrus becomes more pithy and there is some warmth to the greenery, sawdusty woods. I keep thinking what a beautiful everyday spritz Arancia Di Capri would make. It’s fairly simple but lovely enough that a perfumista could easily wear it daily. What I really think it would be excellent for is both the younger and much older ends of the perfume wearing spectrum. Excellent gateway to more refined fragrance and also a good go-to for someone who wants to smell good but really doesn’t care about perfumes like we do.

When they noted caramel I was expecting it to have a really gourmand base but it’s not like that at all. More of a low key amber that rides underneath a vegetal musk. The citrus pith never truly leaves and longevity for this cologne style EdT is excellent.

Arancia Di Capri by Acqua di Parma: Blu Mediterraneo Series 1999 30ml

Another thing I love about many of the Acqua Di Parma range is that they come in five sizes. Choose from the very elegant 30ml travel pictured above to an enormous 180ml behemoth. There is also a beauty/bath range and ambient fragrance choices. You and your home can be top to bottom Arancia Di Capri. If I was a one scent kinda person this would be very alluring.

Sound good?
Portia xx

 

At The Barbers by Maison Margiela
by

At The Barbers by Maison Margiela

Hey there ULGers, Can you believe At The Barbers turns 10 years old in 2024? So weird. Replica from Maison Margiela seems like a newish brand to me. HA! Clearly I’m well out of the loop. I’ve seen the brand talked about a lot over the years and it’s always seemed like an upmarket take on the Demeter range. Apparently they have much better longevity than the Demeter’s though, YAY!

Anyway, trawling through the sample box tonight I found this carded sample that I have absolutely zero recollection of ever seeing before. Maybe the sample fairy has been dropping in and leaving little presents. OR maybe I still have way too many samples and decants.

At The Barbers by Replica from Maison Margiela 2014

At The Barber's Maison Martin Margiela

Maison Margiela gives these featured accords:
Top: Bigarade oil, Basil accord, Black Pepper essence
Heart: Geranium oil, Lavender essence, Rosemary oil
Base: Tonka Bean resinoïd, Evernyl, White Musks

OMG! At The Barbers is exactly as the label says. I’m instantly thrown back to my first job sweeping floors, making coffees, washing heads of hair and selling cigarettes at the Barber/Hairdresser/Tobacconist in our local mall, at the tender age of 13-15. This is such a perfect match for the potion they’d spritz heavily on all the men customers. We were the only barber-ish shop in the area and had 6 chairs/2 tubs. There would often be a long queue of families waiting their turn. Especially Thursday evenings and Saturdays. Vince the boss was a nice looking, gentle, engaging man who liked to smile and chat and he chose the rest of his crew to fit that mold. I learned a lot and enjoyed my time there so At The Barbers has super happy memories.

At The Barber's Maison Martin Margiela

Herbaceous greenery and lavender sparked up with the dry rasp of black pepper with a sweet resinous base. There’s no huge trajectory and lasting power is excellent. I can imagine a whole new generation discovering this and swooning. Really, At The Barbers is not like much of the high end fragrance available nowadays. Even at the barber they’ve gone super sweet.

I’d love to smell At The Barbers on women. Bet it would be absolutely amazing.
Portia xx

Eau des Merveilles Bleue by Hermès
by

Eau des Merveilles Bleue by Hermès

Hi Crew, The rumor mill has Christine Nagal finishing up at Hermès so I thought it might be nice to look at one of my favorites from her tenure. Though I didn’t LOVE everything she created there were quite a few that I did. The Vetiver Terre d’Hermès, Eau de Citron Noire, Un Jardin Sur La Lagune and à Cythère all have made full bottles bought at retail in my collection. Violette Volinka and H24 EdP are both on the list. I think that’s about half of her output? Pretty good strike rate if you ask me. Yes, I know. You didn’t. HA! So let’s talk about the one that sees the most wear around here, Eau des Merveilles Bleue. A perfect summer spritz for you all in the northern hemisphere right now.

Eau des Merveilles Bleue by Hermès 2016

Featured accords:
Sea salt, woody notes, juniper berry, patchouli

Yeah, I know a lot of the perfumista community sneers at a salty aquatic but it’s probably time to get your nose on a good one again. It may just sway your thinking. Especially as it’s summer up in the northern hemisphere and anything refreshing should be embraced wholeheartedly. Another win here is the fabulous bottle, so gorgeous in my hand. Plus it comes in a few sizes from the 15ml travel up to the 100ml.

Straight out of the gate Eau des Merveilles Bleue smells of salty juniper berries. They are piquant and green but awash with cold sea water. There are also wafts of cutting green chilis and some herbaceous greenery a little like pine needles and basil. We are taught this is a masculine configuration. In reality I can definitely imagine it smelling killer on even the most feminine of women. It would definitely be unexpected.

Through the heart and base of Eau des Merveilles Bleue have a much more seaside vibe. A little bit of seaweed, some driftwood, walking through the soft sand to sit under an enormous beach umbrella and order some margaritas. The salt dries on your body, you’re relaxed, maybe there’s a breeze and you can watch the beach and bar go by happily for a couple of hours. Some desultory conversation and a really good book.

Eau des Merveilles Bleue by Hermès

The patchouli is shorn of all things natural and comes across sheer and modern. It hardly resembles the patchouli of the head shop, chocolate or earthy varieties we wore in time gone by. As Eau des Merveilles Bleue heads towards full dry down I smell like me coming home after swimming in the ocean.

Are you game to try some aquatic fragrances this summer?
Portia xx

 

 

 

Saturday Question: What Three Would You Bring Back
by

Saturday Question: What Three Would You Bring Back

Hello Fellow Fumies,

At ULG we have a Saturday Question. Everyone gets to chime in with an answer, chat with other responders and it’s a fun event each week. Taking sides never means taking offence and everyone keeps it respectful and light, even though we can sometimes trawl the depths.

The idea is you’ll see it on the weekend or chime in through the week. Hopefully you will come back regularly and see if anyone has responded to your comment and you can reply to them. The aim is to generate real conversation and connection even though we are scattered around the globe.

Saturday Question: What Three Would You Bring Back?

So many fragrances have been Discontinued, Changed or Reformulated over time that it’s hard to wrap your head around it. Anyone buying Opium, Magie Noire, Diva or Miss Dior in 2024 will be gobsmacked by how different they smell to the originals. Even some less vintage fragrance lines like CHANEL exclusives, Maison Christian Dior Collection, Serge Lutens or the Malle line have been hacked into and given refreshes. We await changes on other brands bought out by big fragrance. Then there are the slew of fragrances that have gone from the counters forever, impossible to find for less than a small countries annual GDP and then you better hope it’s not a fake or refilled.

So what are the three you REALLY wish you could have 200ml of in pristine condition? Imagine there was a perfume fairy that could grant these wishes. No question of expense or postage, snap and the three bottles appear.

My Answer:

Guerlain Paris-Moscou

This is an old photo of my bottle which only has maybe 3ml left in the bottom. I really don’t know why this overly sweet, sticky, glug of a perfume captured me so completely and utterly. Plum cheesecake? Is there such a thing. Screamingly sweet. Still, whenever I spritz the smile goes from ear to ear and I huff deeply for about 5 hours. Loving every minute. Sadly these travel perfumes were not popular and went the way of the dodo in what felt like minutes.

Niki de Saint Phalle

While I love many of the mossy floral chypres, Niki de saint Phalle is the one that speaks loudest to me. I’m pretty sure that at least some of the reason is Niki’s story, art and sheer brazen ability to make her way in such a mans world. Fortunately I was aware they were coming to the end of the road when the discounters were practically giving bottles away and I bought a drawer full. Even if I wore Niki de Saint Phalle exclusively my stash might last 10 years.

Versace Blonde EdT & extrait

Don’t worry. I also have a stash of this magnificent tuberose/jasmine/ylang sillage monster. What makes me sad is something so fabulous and glamorous, created the year before Versace Dreamer (another favourite), heralded the pinnacle of Versace fragrances. It was the diamond that came before they seemed to give up on making fine fragrance. Yes, they still make fragrance and they are not terrible but they also miss the interest, aspirational creativity and magic of the Versace mid 1990s releases.

 

My Saturday Question to you is:

What Three Would You Bring Back?

Assam of India by Parfums Berdoues
by

Assam of India by Parfums Berdoues

Hey Hey ULGers! Lovely to have you in the blog-house. Over the years Robin and the NST crew have talked lovingly of Assam of India. I tried it early on and loved it but then completely forgot it even existed till a couple of years ago when it came up again on a few Friday Community Projects over there. Having spent every cent on travel last year and other expenses this year it’s been a financially enforced low buy 18 months. Seeing the light at the end of the tunnel meant I gave myself permission to grab a couple of things. Jin’s signature perfume Bottega Veneta EdP has been DCd, so I grabbed him a backup or two from FragranceNet (not affiliated). While there I noticed Assam of India Testers were cheap, so it went in the cart. YAY! Now it has arrived and I’m thinking you all up in the warming Northern Hemisphere will go ape shit for its super summer wearability.

Assam of India by Parfums Berdoues 2015

Assam of India by Parfums Berdoues

Parfums Berdous give these featured accords:
Menton lemon, Indian tea, Mysore sandalwood

Do you ever wish for a crisp, beautiful, no nonsense but lovely to smell tea forward fragrance that will suit any mood in the warmer months and many in the cooler? Does the bottle make a difference? Is super cuteness without being childish a win? Then we might just have the perfect scent for you here today.

Immediately a sweet citrus, much sweeter and softer than lemon to my nose. Veery pomelo. Soon after there is a hint of those little square travel mints and then, interestingly it turns less sweet and gets the tart edge I expect from lemon.

You’d expect the tea to be very Earl Grey with such a burst of citrus. It’s not. While I do get the dry back of throat feeling that tea in perfume often gives me it’s not black tea. More of a green tea herbal concoction and I get very specific chamomile and dandelion references. Also lovely hints of basil and later a bitter green angelica. The sandalwood never really makes much of an appearance and Assam of India stays fairly green tea and herbs.

Yes, I’m sure you all get entirely different rides but these are consistent olfactory markers for me through a few wears. Funny how it happens.

Assam of India by Parfums Berdoues short shot

Utterly unisex. Lasts surprisingly well before becoming a wash of green nothings. Not a huge perfume but definitely changes the air around you. Like a bit of a creeper that someone will notice after minutes sitting right next to you, then they’ll say something. I do get why it’s so popular and think it would make a terrific gift to non perfumistas who are after something more interesting than most department store fare.

Are any of you fans of Assam of India?
Portia xx

 

Musk by Lorenzo Villoresi
by

Musk by Lorenzo Villoresi

Howdy Looking Glassers, Another bottle bought for a song from a friend’s FaceBook Sale post. Though I’ve been to Florence a few times and always hit Santa Maria Novella, so far I’ve not been to the Lorenzo Villoresi store. I have tried a few of them over time but can’t remember where, how or with whom. Another of my mates Scotty is mad keen for Teint de Neige and wears it in glorious abundance. He has a very rude name for it and I can’t for the life of men remember what it is. Bummer. Today we are talking about my first bottle, only half full, from the house; Musk.

Musk by Lorenzo Villoresi 1995

Musk by Lorenzo Villoresi

Lorenzo Villoresi site gives these featured accords:
Top: Galbanum, Cardamom, Flowers, Bergamot
Heart: Geranium, Rose
Base: Musk, Sandalwood, Oakmoss, Rosewood, Vanilla

First breath is all galbanum. That green, smooth, furry resin. It’s quickly underpinned by sharp geranium leaves and a very green rose like torn rose petals and leaves. It isn’t till well into the heart that the cardamom makes an appearance, giving the flowers and resin a powdery green tinge. I’m surprised there’s no heliotrope mentioned, or iris.

About an hour later Musk has turned delightfully carnation and powder with vanilla and oakmoss humming along beside. It’s very pretty and a true powder bomb. Very satisfying.

Musk Lorenzo Villoresi

Projection is moderate to low after initial intensity, longevity is moderate.

Musk is not an eye rolling gorgeous, to die for fragrance. It’s low key, beautifully put together, seamless and a very enjoyable wear. Perfect for when you want to smell goods but not be a perfume bully.

Sound good to you?
Portia xx

 

Ysatis by Givenchy 1984
by

Ysatis by Givenchy 1984

Dear Gentle Reader (SORRY! I’ve been rewatching Bridgerton) Hey there ULGers! If you never heard of Givenchy Ysatis then you’re either very young or you’ve been living under a rock. It is celebrating its 40th birthday this year. Yep! Outrageous. Recently I was reminded of it because one of the regular Trivia night patrons wears it so beautifully. More than once I’ve asker her what magical elixir she is wafting to have a very happy reply of Ysatis. She’s so happy that even though I’m a perfume blogger and snob that her not very expensive or posh perfume gets noticed so often. Really, it smells extraordinary on her, so full and sensual and more-ish, I try to sit with her when she’s wearing it and just swim in the gorgeous gouts of fragrance.

Ysatis by Givenchy 1984

Ysatis by Givenchy 1984

Parfumo gives these featured accords:
Top: Aldehydes, Orange blossom, Brazilian rosewood, Galbanum  Neroli, Bergamot, Citrus notes, Mandarin orange, Coconut
Heart: Jasmine, Narcissus, Tuberose, Ylang-ylang, Egyptian rose, Florentine iris, Honey
Base: Civet, Amber, Castoreum, Clove, Musk, Oakmoss, Patchouli, Precious woods, Sandalwood, Vanilla, Bay rum, Vetiver

Above you will see the new, modern bottle and the Givenchy site tells us they have reinvented their iconic fragrances and repackaged them as the Heritage Collection. I’ve not had a sniff of the new one so cannot comment on the carnage, if there has been some.

In my life though, on a friend’s recent FaceBook Sale post I saw (and bought for a song) a half full vint-ish tester. Just so I can waft around the house smelling like a ripe old diva (yes, this is how it smells on me, and I’m LOVING it).

This was Dominique Ropion’s first commercial fine fragrance! What a start. Fragrantica has his current release count at 357.

So let’s parse this unbelievably kitchen sink style perfume. Ysatis opens with an aldehydic citrus burst already full to overflowing with a tropical white floral extravaganza. It’s also quite animalic, even this early. Honeyed and boozy. It’s so full on, everything seems to be happening at once but it’s never cacophonous. It feels large, a bit overwhelming but structured and focused.

The heart is animalic floral with shy undertones of suntan lotion and cocktails. No one flower sits atop the bouquet, it’s a big. fat, sexy melange. Here is where my heart swoons and the heart has a most impressive lifespan. After about 40 minutes the whole fragrance softens considerably but still pumps out the gorgeous fragrantly. Base is a very lightly spiced amber/sandalwood and I think this bottle is old enough that there is still some oakmoss swirling around adding its fuzzy lustre. Until writing this post I’d always put Ysatis into the BWF category but it’s categorized as a Floral Chypre.

This is a no holds barred explosion of gratuitous fabulousness that would take a very secure man to pull it off, or a Drag Queen obvs. It’s built for an era of high octane perfume that walked into the room well ahead of the woman wearing it. Probably not office safe anymore and it would definitely clash with your ability to taste food. Projection, sillage and longevity are all off the charts. You are making a real time investment to smelling of Ysatis.

Did you? Would You Ysatis?
Portia xx

 

Trajan by Electimuss London
by

Trajan by Electimuss London

Hi there ULGers, Hope your fortnight has been a good one. If not then let’s talk perfume and forget the world for a moment. I have an admission to make. Electimuss as a brand has completely passed me by. From the Electimuss site: “Electimuss means “to choose the best” in Latin and that ethos is at the heart of our brand. Exquisite oils and resins in our fragrances are rare and precious and blended with meticulous attention paid to every note and detail… We care passionately about quality. All of our fragrances are 25% or 30% Pure Parfum / Extrait and our blends are unashamedly decadent and daring.” They are inspired by Ancient Rome.

Before we go any further I do not understand why brands are doing extraits and acting as if it’s a better deal. It’s bloody annoying. You could do 50% of cheap as shit ingredients and it is still an extrait. Also, I like the projection of an EdT. Should I wish a stronger % then I’d like to buy a 7.5ml extrait spray like the old Guerlain cigarette lighter case and wear them together. For that extra rich, burnished depth. In my books (clearly I’m a dinosaur) having the extrait should be a glamorous add on.

Sorry, rant over.

Trajan by Electimuss London 2020

Electimuss site gives these featured accords:
Top: Mandarin, lemon, bergamot, blood orange
Heart: Lavender, sage, saffron
Base: Cedarwood, oak moss, ambergris

I’m unsure why I even bought this sample from Surrender To Chance. I was having a little retail therapy late at night. You know how it goes, right?

Trajan is named for a Roman emperor whose claim to fame was the expansion of Roman trade frontiers down the Silk Road. Expanding the empires access to sought after goods from Asia. So I was expecting a heavily spiced incense fragrance with all the dark trademarks of the travel. It was a surprise that citrus came from Southeast Asia, Lavender from mainland Eurasia, Sage is Mediterranean and Asia Minor, Saffron from Central Asia, Cedar is Mediterranean and Himalayas, Oakmoss the Balkans and Far East and Ambergris comes from beaches the world over but the Chinese called it Dragon Spit. After having an early interior sneer yet again I have been brought back to reality. Though these are not the notes I’d have most connected with the Silk Road there is definite relevance. Sorry Electimuss for my judgmental attitude.

Trajan Electimuss

How does it smell? The opening is like a slightly tweaked Baccarat Rouge 540. Much less headache inducing but very reminiscent. The lavender is a very nice touch and it appears magically in the second or third minute and stays for a while. As the initial fury subsides there is a fantastic Play Doh vibe underpinned by bakery or maybe cookie dough and Trajan becomes something much more interesting.

My nose is also telling me there are some flowers hiding within the construct but I can’t pin them down. You know that powdery smoothness of petals, the feeling of peony or crabapple petals without the fragrance of them.

The base smells similar to loads of other mass-tige offerings. Very nice ambery/woodsy/vanilla all smooshed together into that reliably comfortable and wearable melange.

OK, it’s 5.03pm tomorrow now. The base is BR450 and ETERNAL. It will not wash off. 

The bottle looks gorgeous.

Sound good?
Portia xx