François Demachy

Santal Noir by DIOR
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Santal Noir by DIOR

Hi there ULGers, DIOR is one of my most collected brands. The Couturier range, now called La Collection Privée Christian Dior, has changed and evolved over time. Created by the DIOR in house perfumer at the time François Demachy. Francis Kurkdjian took the reins in 2021 and has done some interesting things. It was a surprise to me that though I own a bottle up till now I’ve not reviewed Santal Noir. The fragrance designed around Mr Christian Dior’s love for the colour black. As you can see, I rarely reach for it but when the mood strikes only Santal Noir will do.

I’m not buying any more large DIOR Collection bottles. They have changed the sizes and that shits me beyond words. Shrinkenomics in action. If I love something then I’m only buying the 40ml. Yes, it’s more expensive BUT then it won’t stand out like dogs balls as different to my 125ml and 250ml bottles. DIOR can suck it.

Santal Noir by DIOR 2018

Santal Noir by Dior

Cited featured accords:
Sandalwood, Leather, Woods, Rose, Ambrette

Opening gambit is scratchy dark woods, a little bit eucalyptus and very earthy. Pretty soon there is a jammy rose that peeks through and some smooth, sweet resins.

Not too long ago wait for a brand-new-shoe leather smell bubbling up. You know when you open the box at the store and pull out a never before touched shoe? You smell it and the mixture of leather, tanning materials, colours and finishes all greets you. It’s such a wonderful smell. Imagine you are smelling that smell but it’s in a dream. So not really but definitely in the same realm.

It’s not till all of these other notes have made their presentation that the dry yet creamy sandalwood of fragrance enters. It plays happily alongside the rest until it takes its moment to rise above. Yes, the rest of the backing chorus is still there but they have been overshadowed. It’s nice to have a sandalwood that is not buoyed by coconut, ylang or masses of vanilla. I do think there is a little amber hiding in the mix though.

Santal Noir by Dior

Is this a brand new look at sandalwood? No, we’ve smelled this kind of treatment before, especially in some of the 21st century niche and a few of the earlier masculine designers. It’s the backing players and the refined blend that makes Santal Noir stand head and shoulders above most others. I do like this dry, mainly unsweetened or tropicalised version of sandalwood. It’s restrained and solid.

Where do you stand on bottle changes mid run? Do you like the idea of a less flamboyant sandalwood?
Portia xx

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Gris Dior by Dior

Hi there. Those temps should be getting high up there in the Northern Hemisphere. Sometimes in high heat I like to go super restrained with my fragrance. Luxurious but introverted. The way a sotto voce fragrance can surround you with a barely there nimbus of fragrance can be powerful in its understatement. Also, I like that a tenacious one can surprise me with little huffs of reminder through the day. Once called Gris Montaigne after the grey of the Rue de Montaigne store (I think i remember that rightly) and now called simply Gris Dior.

Gris Dior by Maison Christian Dior Collection 2018

Parfumo gives these featured accords:
Calabrian bergamot, Turkish rose, Patchouli, Jasmine sambac, Amber, Oakmoss, Cedar, Sandalwood

OK, so Gris Dior is a softer, less intense version of the original Gris Montaigne. They are saying it’s the exact same thing but the big fragrance crews have often played fast and loose with the truth. Still beautiful, still luxurious and interesting but like a fraiche version of itself.

If a Middle Eastern rose/patch, hefty kinda perfume is your wish then go grab a bottle of something else. Gris Dior includes a lot of the ingredients but doesn’t do its thing flamboyantly.

The opening is rose water marmalade and a wash of cool white flowers. A light, airy fragrance that only hints at any darkness. Actually, Gris Dior is like smelling someone else’s perfume at lunch. Tangible and lovely but non intrusive.

Into the low level rose/woods heart Gris Dior continues to pump out a very low key prettiness. It’s an under the radar beauty. Until i purposely try to resmell it I’m blissfully unaware of any fragrance, unless there’s a surprise huff from my shirt.

Underwhelming sounds mean but I think that is exactly what François Demachy was aiming for here. Beautiful, poised and luxurious but barely there. A cool whisper of scent that you can wear anytime and anywhere.

Did you try Gris Dior?
Portia xx