Secret Joly Oriza L. Legrand

Secret Joly Oriza L. Legrand

Howdy ULGers! I was trawling around in my cupboards this week and wasn’t quite sure what was going to get the spritz. I had plenty of time and a hankering for a forgotten beauty. Something I love but that has sat unremembered for a long while. The box with my Oriza also has Robert Piguet, Andrea Maack and Miller et Bertaux. To be honest, I thought it was going to be a Piguet kinda day. Maybe Bois Bleu or Alameda. When I looked in the box Secret Joly, a fragrance I’ve not worn in ages, called my name. OK. So I spritzed, and remembered why I bought it in the first place. I’ve pulled it out of the cupboard and it’s now own my desk. So wearing it for the third time in less than a fortnight I realized it needed a post.

Secret Joly by Oriza L. Legrand 2020

Oriza Legrand gives these featured accords:
Top: Hyacinth, Ylang-Ylang
Heart: Gardenia, Tuberose, Jasmine Sambac
Base: Civet, Tonkin Musk, Peruvian Balsam

Floral creaminess, a rich and hefty tropical miasma that is utterly entrancing. Secret Joly smells like nothing else but also has hints of a sneaky side eye reference to the BWF stunners of the 1980s. I think it’s the animalic undertow. Already the chosen flowers are pretty meaty but add some civet and musk style depths and GROWL.

If you’re expecting some gardenia blue cheese you will be disappointed. Well, it doesn’t show up on my wearings.

Normally I save Secret Joly for cool weather wearings. It is so ripe and warm and feels really cozy. Today is 36C and super humid here in Sydney and THIS PERFUME HAS BLOOMED!  I just took the dogs for a walk and the combination with the days heat and my bodies extra walking warmth and a bit of sweaty man. WHOA NELLY! I smell amazing. Eye rolling, mind blowing, heart racing amazing.

The last few wears since rediscovering Secret Joly have been fairly sedentary. Yesterday, by the time I went to aquarobics most of Secret Joly must have burned off beforehand because I just got some pretty reawakening and then the last vestiges washed off.

Definitely aimed at the girls but only a minor stretch to the guys and it smells F I N E!

Did you ever get your sniff on Secret Joly?
Portia xx

 

P.S. I also really loved Oriza Scotch Lavender and wish I’d bought a bottle.

Saturday Question: Do You Scent Your Home For Holidays?

Yes, it is December. Thanksgiving is behind us. Let’s decorate. Even if you do not have any holiday to celebrate this month or do not feel in the mood, let’s find something positive and worth looking forward to. Lights, scents and festive food usually help.

Saturday Question on Undina's Looking Glass

Saturday Question #242:

Do You Scent Your Home For Holidays?

Do you have any special ways to introduce holidays-related or holidays-inspired aromas into your home?

A bonus question: do you plan to decorate your space for any of the upcoming holidays?

My Answer

I love-love-love winter holidays! If the weather permits, we might put on outdoor lights this weekend. Since our tree is artificial, we can put it up at any time. I’m not sure when we will though. Probably not this weekend, but maybe next. But since it is artificial, I miss the smell of fir and resin that a natural tree brings. And to rectify that, over years, I introduced different sprays (one was very naturally smelling… but it had something headache-inducing, so I had to get rid of it), fir-scented candles (so far, I haven’t found the one I would like to re-purchase – any advice?) and, the most successful product, Frasier Fir hand wash from Thymes (I have a little left from the previous year, but I haven’t checked yet if it’s still good, and I need to get a refill soon).

Additionally, this year I decided to get a small natural wreath… but hang it inside – just for the smell. I found just what I was looking for at Trader Joe’s and hanged it on one of the walls using a sheet of foil wrap as a backdrop to prevent damage to the wall behind in case the branches used in the wreath still have any sap or resin left. I know it’s unorthodox, but once I got that idea in my head, I just had to do it.

Christmas Wreath

How about you?

Do You Scent Your Home For Holidays?

Saturday Question: Are You A Squirrel?

I was going to use the word “hoarder,” but it felt too serious for a lighthearted SQ. I decided to rephrase. As I discovered, various characteristics are attributed to this small furry creature and meanings of that comparison range widely (including quite cheesy pickup lines). I’m using it in a fun and lighthearted way to describe someone who keeps more than they need but isn’t truly excessive but in a sense of resourcefulness and foresight.

Saturday Question on Undina's Looking Glass

Saturday Question #241:

Are You A Squirrel?

First, let’s talk about perfumes. And to clarify further, we are not talking about the number of different perfumes in our collections (it is a collection after all). But what about different sizes, different concentrations, multiple “vintages” and backup bottles? Do you keep samples and decants even after you’ve gotten a bottle of that perfume? Do you have EdT, EdP and extrait of your favorite perfumes and then maybe a hair mist or a body lotion? If yes, do you wear all of these?

Switching the focus from perfumes, do you have a tendency to stash away acorns supplies for future use? Do you buy multiple items in advance when you get a good deal? Or do you live in the moment going by what you need now?

My Answer

Guilty. For perfumes I love, I want to have them in all possible versions and forms – sometimes even multiple bottles of the same size – and it’s tough for me to let go of a sample or decant, even if I already have a lifetime supply of that perfume. What if I need a smaller size to take with me? It’s irrational: not only can I always make myself a decant for traveling if I need to, but I also have no issues making a sample or a small decant from my bottle for someone else. But that first sample/decant that came before the bottle… Oh, and usually I wear only one of the versions I have – but I still want to have the rest. Just in case. Luckily, it’s just a handful of perfumes that make me feel this way.

With non-perfume stuff, I am awful: since I don’t like change, if something works for me – be it household items, supplies, beauty products or even clothes – I want to be able to use it… always. So, if there is a chance something will become unavailable, or if I find a good deal or a bulk purchase at a better per-unit price, my knee-jerk reaction is to buy and squirrel it away. I think I was always inclined to be over-prepared, but COVID has exacerbated it – not so much in terms of fearing unavailability, but rather to avoid being dependent on the external world or having to venture into it unless absolutely necessary.

This year “Black Friday month” is especially hard for me. I don’t think I’ve ever planned to or bought a big-ticket item during that traditional American pastime, so for years, I thought I was immune to it. But for the last 3 weeks, I’ve been bombarded with deals for the most mundane items – skincare, hair care, tea, socks, vitamins, cleaning supplies, etc., etc. And then, some non-recurring items are offered at a much better price than I saw them since I started watching them planning to buy eventually (for example, wine glasses I wanted to buy for a while). I can’t buy everything, even if it’s something I will use up (and eventually buy more): both my budget and storage space have limits I must respect. But psychologically, it bothers me that in six months, I might have to spend extra money on something I could have bought cheaper today – even if it’s just a $3-$5 difference.

 

How about you?

Are You A Squirrel?

Portia Reconnecting with Etat Libre d’Orange

Portia Reconnecting with Etat Libre d’Orange

Hey there Looking Glassers, I have long loved the fun and whimsy of Etat Libre d’Orange. They have so many distinctive fragrances, do a fabulous job of reimagining old tropes and twisting them with a new skew. Plus they are very reasonably priced in relation to modern niche as a whole. They were a lot more outrageous in their earlier years, playing for gimmick and shock in their marketing and presentation. I’m not terribly sad they’ve pretty much left that behind in favour of more staid and general public oriented display and scent.

 

Portia Reconnecting with Etat Libre d'Orange

Portia Reconnecting with Etat Libre d’Orange

Maybe you’d like to have a wander through my collection of Etat Libre d’Orange bottles with me? Just for clarity, some of these bottles I paid Retail for, bought off Sale Docs or at the Discounters and others are Press Bottles. My mate Bronwyn was the Australian distributor for ELdO so I’ve been lucky enough to try almost everything. This selection are the favorites I own, maybe I’ll do the others another day.

Fat Electrician

Vetiver and sparks from electrical wires. Slightly salty, dark and weird. One of my favourite vetivers ever.

I Am Trash

Worst title, loveliest scent. The apple is all loads of people talk about but it’s peripheral to me. My ride is a creamy floral, I’m constantly surprised it’s rose and not ylang or jasmine. Dry down is floral woods. So pretty and wearable.

Jasmin et Cigarette

This was on my To Buy List or a very long time but never seemed to make it all the way to a check out. Well, it finally did not so long ago. Bubblegum jasmine that pretty quickly gets a dark coating of tar and smoke. It’s bloody amazing how two such diverse scents work together in perfect harmony.

Noel au Balcon

Very elegant honeyed fruits and Christmassy cinnamon underpinned by vanilla rich amber and musks. I don’t know why this gets so little attention. It’s a stunner.

Spice Must Flow

True to its name. Spicy. Not ALL about spice though. Here we have the perfumers rose/saffron mix that has been so popular in the 21st century niche market. The way we smell it here is a little different though. Add on pepper, cinnamon, incense and patchouli in bucketloads. It’s beautifully created, hits my nose exactly how I’d like it to. Starts a bit rough and ends up smooth as silk.

The Afternoon Of A Faun

Immortelle and a bunch of other stuff. Thick and gluggy on arrival, freshly windswept by the end. So wearable but it’s HUGE so maybe a few less spritzes Portia.

Tom of Finland

Tom of Finland is not a filthy, sex laden, piss soaked, leather bar in Berlin. Shame really, that would have been revoltingly alluring. What we get is the waft of someone wearing their leathers in the next room while we are in our high heel cupboard, but a very soft version of that. It smells luxuriously subtle.

Yes, I Do

Sheer soft focus Lily of the Valley (LotV), sweetness added by the marshmallow and a very clean jasmine/orange blossom. Very little of the oft hyped funk and a bit of plasticky patchouli, but on the whole fresh, youthful and prim.

You or Someone Like You

The fragrance made to fit the mother of writer Chandler Burr in his semi autobiographical novel of the same name. What it smells like to me is a hike in the Australian scrub near a watercourse in early summer. Magic!

 

So what are your Etat Libre d’Orange loves and loathes?
Portia xx

Saturday Question: Do You Participate In Perfume Events?

Before COVID, in larger cities perfume enthusiasts used to organize in-person events – Sniffapalooza in New York, Perfume Lovers London and others. When the pandemic started, many events moved online, which made a lot of sense: samples can be delivered via post, and then the discussion might happen virtually. These days, some events returned to brick-and-mortar boutiques, while others maintain their online format. So, the question for you this week:

 

Saturday Question on Undina's Looking Glass

 

Saturday Question #240:

Do You Participate In Perfume Events?

Event in person where a specific brand is presenting their lineup (if it’s a new brand) or the most recent collection. Or a virtual one where samples are delivered in advance of the online meeting? If you do, do you enjoy the format? If you don’t, why?

My Answer

In the last couple of years, I’ve been in a low-buy to no-buy mode. So, from time to time I decide that, being a perfume blog, I have to do some testing of current offerings that I can’t try in my local department stores. So, from time to time, I sign up for online events that include receiving sets of samples. A part of signing up for these events, paying and receiving the sets work for me wonderfully: samples bought this way are much cheaper than you’d pay for the same number/volume of samples if you were to order them separately. But after that… I did connected to a couple of events organized by the Beautyhabit. But, in general, after trying perfumes when they arrive and not liking most of them (a regular thing for me), I don’t feel compelled to spend another hour listening to how the brand had arrived at the creation of perfumes that I didn’t like – so, after getting and testing samples I just skip the meeting itself.

The last brand I tried this way was Frederico Perfumes. It was organized by Sniffapalooza. I got a set of 6 perfume samples, tried them all and realized that since I do not even like, let alone love, any of them, I could care less about the story behind their creation. So, I skipped the meeting altogether.

There are a couple of in-person event in the next month in San Francisco, but since I do not plan to buy any of those perfumes, it doesn’t make much sense to attend them. I’m still eyeing the Beautyhabit‘s Up Close & Personal event with Parfums de Nicolai. They offer 5 new fragrances for $30 (including S&H and a $10 discount for future purchases), so it seems like a good offer – but I am not really into gourmand scents, and there’s just one Nicolai’s perfume that I like – so I’m not sure if I should spend even $30 to try these new perfumes…

So, if I’m being completely honest, I do not care much for these events, but I treat them as an opportunity to test perfumes I wouldn’t have otherwise, not expecting to find the next Holly Grail.

I know that you’re here not for this. But if have a postal address in the US and would like to try Frederico Perfumes, just add to your comment “I’m in the US” or “I’m in,” and I’ll add you to the draw for an almost new set of 5 samples from this brand – maybe they’ll work better for you.

 

How about you?

 

Do You Participate In Perfume Events?

Saturday Question: What Perfume Do You Not Buy Only Because Of Its Price?

I know it’s Sunday already, but let’s pretend I published it yesterday. Leaving aside that most of us shouldn’t be buying more perfumes, period, and that most of us would break and buy a bottle we wouldn’t have otherwise if tempted by an especially good deal…

 

Saturday Question on Undina's Looking Glass

 

Saturday Question #239:

What Perfume Do You Not Buy Only Because Of Its Price?

Is there a perfume you really like and would want to wear, but you just can’t bring yourself to pay full price (or even with a 10-15% discount)? Do you keep checking hoping for a better price or leave it to chance?

My Answer

I have such a perfume! Byredo La Selle. When it launched in 2016, it was very expensive compared to most perfumes (Xerjoff, Roja Dove and Clive Christian excluded). So, even though I liked it when I tried it, I didn’t even think of buying it.

Thanks to a kind perfumista friend, I got a sample of La Selle, and recently, when I decided to use it up before it turned, I realized how much I enjoyed it. What did I do? I went to check its price. I discovered two things. First, La Selle was re-released under a new name: Sellier (I hope it still smells the same, but I’ll have to test it eventually to confirm). Second, these days its price doesn’t look that obnoxious any longer. I mean, it’s still very expensive. But in the last 8 years, perfume prices have soared, both for existing brands and for hundreds of newly emerged brands. And now, the price for this Byredo’s “special” edition perfume doesn’t look as surprising.

As I mentioned, I liked La Selle very much, and I would wear it if it was in my collection: it’s a soft leather perfume that works for me. But I am not prepared to pay $375 + tax. Theoretically, it should be possible to catch it with a 20% discount, but even that wouldn’t move the needle. I am not saying that it’s not worth it (it’s worth as much as they can sell it for). But with the size of my collection and at this point in my life, I’ve decided, I refuse to pay that much. How much would I pay for it? I’d say around $200 would make me think really hard.

 

Now it’s your turn.

 

What Perfume Do You Not Buy Only Because Of Its Price?

Joy EdT by Jean Patou

Joy EdT by Jean Patou

Hey Hey Looking Glassers, Today I went to the cupboard and grabbed an old Joy EdT by Jean Patou. Now that LVMH has put the kibosh on all Patou fragrances, my stash of the good stuff is becoming even more special. There seems to be some remaining modern bottles on the discounters, FragranceNet (not affiliated) still has some EdT and EdP for very reasonable prices. There’s something so lavish about wearing a fragrance that was once known as the most expensive perfume on earth! Imagine, created by Henri Alméras in 1929 and launched in 1930 in the early years of the Great Depression. Obviously it was only a depression for the unwealthy. There was still a class of people that could and would wear the most expensive perfume on earth… and wear it they did.

Joy EdT by Jean Patou

Joy EdT by Jean Patou

Parfumo gives these featured accords:
Top: Rose, Green notes, Tuberose, Ylang-ylang, Aldehydes, Peach
Heart: Jasmine, Rose, Lily of the valley, Orris root, Orchid
Base: Civet, Musk, Sandalwood

I’m working on the theory today that you all have smelled Joy at some point. It’s not for everyone. For many newly minted perfumistas it will smell dated and old fashioned, it is. Here’s the thing though, when you stop smelling with expectations and start really being in the moment you’ll be able to enjoy the unfurling of true classic perfumery. A masterpiece.

Sweetly fruity, fatty bouquet of white and tropical flowers undercut by some greenery and bubble gum that turns burnished and warm through its life. Ending on a vanilla rich sandalwood base with a friendly, sexy animal growl.

Joy EdT by Jean Patou

Joy smells like its name. It’s one of my favourite spritzes lately when I feel the downward spiral of depression trying to take hold. As the questions and darkness descend a big shot of Joy on the back of my wrist will derail the depths and give me much more interesting and beautiful pathways to follow. An excellent way to send me off for a refreshing sleep/nap from which I can awake revitalized and in a much more positive frame of mind.

Are you a Joy wearer? Do you ever use perfume to help with other parts of your life?
Portia xx

 

Saturday Question: Do You Talk To Sales Associates?

With online shopping growing all over the world, we have to communicate with live people less and less. But for us perfumistas, a visit to a brick-and-mortar store often means a chance to try something new without spending money and accumulating even more samples that stay in our collections, dying a slow (but, hopefully, not painful) death of evaporation. But approaching a perfume counter or visiting a specialized store often means human interactions.

Saturday Question on Undina's Looking Glass

Saturday Question #238:

Do You Talk To Sales Associates?

Are you a “talkative” type who uses any chance to discuss your hobby? Or are you quick with a “just browsing” dismissal and get back to what you planned to do?

And if you do talk to an SA, what do you think is the best answer to their question: “Which Perfumes Do You Like?” Or, maybe, not the best, but what do you usually answer?

 

My Answer

For a long time, whether I talked to an SA depended mostly on my intent to ask for a sample. I considered “the talk” to be a currency I had to pay instead of spending money. And usually, it worked.

These days, I rarely want samples from department stores, so usually, I politely decline any help and just proceed with trying what I came there to try without even attempting to get anything from the visit other than a sniff test. Rarely, I’ll engage if the person seems bored and genuinely interested in perfumes, which doesn’t happen often.

I used to be annoyed by the question about what perfumes I liked and used a variety of answers that, in more or less polite form, meant “Leave me alone!” These days I feel much less confrontational, so I usually cheerfully share my 5-6 favorite notes (and 1-2 that I don’t like), which most of the time puts out their enthusiasm for finding which of the du jour “most popular” perfumes might interest me.

When I visit specialized stores, I try to set expectations immediately. On rare occasions when I plan to buy something (usually while traveling), I say so. Otherwise, I tell them directly that I’m there to see what lines they have and to try new perfumes, but I do not plan to make a purchase that day, except for samples if they sell them.

 

How about you?

Do You Talk To Sales Associates?

Saturday Question: What Are Your Top 5 Seasonal Perfumes?

While it’s still relatively warm in the Northern California where I live, it is an unmistakably Autumn, the beginning of my favorite time of the year, perfume-wise and not only. So, for most of my readers, the question is about their Fall favorites. But for my wonderful co-writer Portia and periodic readers from Down Under it’s Spring – hence a more generic form of this week’s SQ.

 

Saturday Question on Undina's Looking Glass

 

Saturday Question #237:

What Are Your Top 5 Seasonal Perfumes?

I’m not asking for the best-of-the-best-of-the-best (sir) perfumes for the season or even your all-time loves. But just for this year, this autumn (or spring) – what top 5 perfumes do you look forward to wearing?

My Answer

I have sooo many more cool/cold weather appropriate perfumes in my collection than an appropriate weather to wear them that I’m thrilled that I can finally wear them, and it was actually hard to choose just 5 for this list (as if the rest will be offended not to be included). But here we go (in no particular order):

  • Ormonde Jayne Tolu
  • Puredistance Rubikona
  • Guerlain Encens Mythique d’Orient
  • Teo Cabanel Alahine
  • Jo Malone Mimosa & Cardamom

 

How about you?

 

What Are Your Top 5 Seasonal Perfumes?

Ombre Nomad by Louis Vuitton

Ombre Nomad by Louis Vuitton

OK Looking Glass peeps, A mate of mine decanted this from his bottle for me. Bought it, not a gift. I remember trying Ombre Nomade in store when it was released and thinking it was very nice but wasn’t ready to lay down that kind of money to have a bottle. So I have had this 10ml a few years and every now and then I get the urge. HA! Trying to find it today was a bit of a thing. In my memory it was a gold bottle with white sticker so I overlooked this decant at least 10 times before the light dawned. Time just evaporates sometimes. My seriously scheduled day derailed. Oh Well, going with the flow.

Ombre Nomad by Louis Vuitton 2018

Ombre Nomade Louis Vuitton

 

Louis Vuitton gives these featured accords:
Oud Wood, Frankincense, Raspberry, Benzoin Tears

There has been a lot of talk in recent years about that smoky woods amber oud style base that is so prevalent in modern niche perfumery. It’s in so much and I can understand why people are bored of it or it may bring on migraines because some people just don’t have a stop spritzing button. I feel like every era of perfume has a few bases it works with. We look back at the 1970s floral chypres with such reverence but they do all smell within a certain wheelhouse. Then we had an era of spicy, amber rich florals which segued into the Big White Floral and then moved on to aquatics. See, eras of perfume are defined by certain styles. In 20 years time the kids now will be begging for confectionary gourmands, middle eastern style rose oudhs and heavily smoked woody ambers.

So here we have a smoky woods amber oud with raspberry as the defining difference. It’s fairly bombastic and smells pretty good. Actually, there are some marked similarities to Creed Carmina. While not the same they do have some crossover but Ombre Nomade is far less screechy and desperate for attention.

Ombre Nomade Louis Vuitton

I really like the way Ombre Nomade opens with darkness, a slightly medicinal woody oudh. Then it lets the raspberry sinuously slide in, snakelike and beautifully alluring. This is where the fragrance hits Carmina buttons and skews a little cough syrup, but luxuriously here and low key. Then a smoky amber woods comes through and pumps out long after I’ve lost the ability to smell it. The most common remark is that it smells like a smoky leather.

Masculine leaning unisex, extraordinary longevity and quite diffusive even when I can’t smell it anymore.

Did you ever?
Portia xx