Saturday Question: What Perfume Do You Not Buy Only Because Of Its Price?

I know it’s Sunday already, but let’s pretend I published it yesterday. Leaving aside that most of us shouldn’t be buying more perfumes, period, and that most of us would break and buy a bottle we wouldn’t have otherwise if tempted by an especially good deal…

 

Saturday Question on Undina's Looking Glass

 

Saturday Question #239:

What Perfume Do You Not Buy Only Because Of Its Price?

Is there a perfume you really like and would want to wear, but you just can’t bring yourself to pay full price (or even with a 10-15% discount)? Do you keep checking hoping for a better price or leave it to chance?

My Answer

I have such a perfume! Byredo La Selle. When it launched in 2016, it was very expensive compared to most perfumes (Xerjoff, Roja Dove and Clive Christian excluded). So, even though I liked it when I tried it, I didn’t even think of buying it.

Thanks to a kind perfumista friend, I got a sample of La Selle, and recently, when I decided to use it up before it turned, I realized how much I enjoyed it. What did I do? I went to check its price. I discovered two things. First, La Selle was re-released under a new name: Sellier (I hope it still smells the same, but I’ll have to test it eventually to confirm). Second, these days its price doesn’t look that obnoxious any longer. I mean, it’s still very expensive. But in the last 8 years, perfume prices have soared, both for existing brands and for hundreds of newly emerged brands. And now, the price for this Byredo’s “special” edition perfume doesn’t look as surprising.

As I mentioned, I liked La Selle very much, and I would wear it if it was in my collection: it’s a soft leather perfume that works for me. But I am not prepared to pay $375 + tax. Theoretically, it should be possible to catch it with a 20% discount, but even that wouldn’t move the needle. I am not saying that it’s not worth it (it’s worth as much as they can sell it for). But with the size of my collection and at this point in my life, I’ve decided, I refuse to pay that much. How much would I pay for it? I’d say around $200 would make me think really hard.

 

Now it’s your turn.

 

What Perfume Do You Not Buy Only Because Of Its Price?

Joy EdT by Jean Patou

Joy EdT by Jean Patou

Hey Hey Looking Glassers, Today I went to the cupboard and grabbed an old Joy EdT by Jean Patou. Now that LVMH has put the kibosh on all Patou fragrances, my stash of the good stuff is becoming even more special. There seems to be some remaining modern bottles on the discounters, FragranceNet (not affiliated) still has some EdT and EdP for very reasonable prices. There’s something so lavish about wearing a fragrance that was once known as the most expensive perfume on earth! Imagine, created by Henri Alméras in 1929 and launched in 1930 in the early years of the Great Depression. Obviously it was only a depression for the unwealthy. There was still a class of people that could and would wear the most expensive perfume on earth… and wear it they did.

Joy EdT by Jean Patou

Joy EdT by Jean Patou

Parfumo gives these featured accords:
Top: Rose, Green notes, Tuberose, Ylang-ylang, Aldehydes, Peach
Heart: Jasmine, Rose, Lily of the valley, Orris root, Orchid
Base: Civet, Musk, Sandalwood

I’m working on the theory today that you all have smelled Joy at some point. It’s not for everyone. For many newly minted perfumistas it will smell dated and old fashioned, it is. Here’s the thing though, when you stop smelling with expectations and start really being in the moment you’ll be able to enjoy the unfurling of true classic perfumery. A masterpiece.

Sweetly fruity, fatty bouquet of white and tropical flowers undercut by some greenery and bubble gum that turns burnished and warm through its life. Ending on a vanilla rich sandalwood base with a friendly, sexy animal growl.

Joy EdT by Jean Patou

Joy smells like its name. It’s one of my favourite spritzes lately when I feel the downward spiral of depression trying to take hold. As the questions and darkness descend a big shot of Joy on the back of my wrist will derail the depths and give me much more interesting and beautiful pathways to follow. An excellent way to send me off for a refreshing sleep/nap from which I can awake revitalized and in a much more positive frame of mind.

Are you a Joy wearer? Do you ever use perfume to help with other parts of your life?
Portia xx

 

Saturday Question: Do You Talk To Sales Associates?

With online shopping growing all over the world, we have to communicate with live people less and less. But for us perfumistas, a visit to a brick-and-mortar store often means a chance to try something new without spending money and accumulating even more samples that stay in our collections, dying a slow (but, hopefully, not painful) death of evaporation. But approaching a perfume counter or visiting a specialized store often means human interactions.

Saturday Question on Undina's Looking Glass

Saturday Question #238:

Do You Talk To Sales Associates?

Are you a “talkative” type who uses any chance to discuss your hobby? Or are you quick with a “just browsing” dismissal and get back to what you planned to do?

And if you do talk to an SA, what do you think is the best answer to their question: “Which Perfumes Do You Like?” Or, maybe, not the best, but what do you usually answer?

 

My Answer

For a long time, whether I talked to an SA depended mostly on my intent to ask for a sample. I considered “the talk” to be a currency I had to pay instead of spending money. And usually, it worked.

These days, I rarely want samples from department stores, so usually, I politely decline any help and just proceed with trying what I came there to try without even attempting to get anything from the visit other than a sniff test. Rarely, I’ll engage if the person seems bored and genuinely interested in perfumes, which doesn’t happen often.

I used to be annoyed by the question about what perfumes I liked and used a variety of answers that, in more or less polite form, meant “Leave me alone!” These days I feel much less confrontational, so I usually cheerfully share my 5-6 favorite notes (and 1-2 that I don’t like), which most of the time puts out their enthusiasm for finding which of the du jour “most popular” perfumes might interest me.

When I visit specialized stores, I try to set expectations immediately. On rare occasions when I plan to buy something (usually while traveling), I say so. Otherwise, I tell them directly that I’m there to see what lines they have and to try new perfumes, but I do not plan to make a purchase that day, except for samples if they sell them.

 

How about you?

Do You Talk To Sales Associates?

Saturday Question: What Are Your Top 5 Seasonal Perfumes?

While it’s still relatively warm in the Northern California where I live, it is an unmistakably Autumn, the beginning of my favorite time of the year, perfume-wise and not only. So, for most of my readers, the question is about their Fall favorites. But for my wonderful co-writer Portia and periodic readers from Down Under it’s Spring – hence a more generic form of this week’s SQ.

 

Saturday Question on Undina's Looking Glass

 

Saturday Question #237:

What Are Your Top 5 Seasonal Perfumes?

I’m not asking for the best-of-the-best-of-the-best (sir) perfumes for the season or even your all-time loves. But just for this year, this autumn (or spring) – what top 5 perfumes do you look forward to wearing?

My Answer

I have sooo many more cool/cold weather appropriate perfumes in my collection than an appropriate weather to wear them that I’m thrilled that I can finally wear them, and it was actually hard to choose just 5 for this list (as if the rest will be offended not to be included). But here we go (in no particular order):

  • Ormonde Jayne Tolu
  • Puredistance Rubikona
  • Guerlain Encens Mythique d’Orient
  • Teo Cabanel Alahine
  • Jo Malone Mimosa & Cardamom

 

How about you?

 

What Are Your Top 5 Seasonal Perfumes?

Ombre Nomad by Louis Vuitton

Ombre Nomad by Louis Vuitton

OK Looking Glass peeps, A mate of mine decanted this from his bottle for me. Bought it, not a gift. I remember trying Ombre Nomade in store when it was released and thinking it was very nice but wasn’t ready to lay down that kind of money to have a bottle. So I have had this 10ml a few years and every now and then I get the urge. HA! Trying to find it today was a bit of a thing. In my memory it was a gold bottle with white sticker so I overlooked this decant at least 10 times before the light dawned. Time just evaporates sometimes. My seriously scheduled day derailed. Oh Well, going with the flow.

Ombre Nomad by Louis Vuitton 2018

Ombre Nomade Louis Vuitton

 

Louis Vuitton gives these featured accords:
Oud Wood, Frankincense, Raspberry, Benzoin Tears

There has been a lot of talk in recent years about that smoky woods amber oud style base that is so prevalent in modern niche perfumery. It’s in so much and I can understand why people are bored of it or it may bring on migraines because some people just don’t have a stop spritzing button. I feel like every era of perfume has a few bases it works with. We look back at the 1970s floral chypres with such reverence but they do all smell within a certain wheelhouse. Then we had an era of spicy, amber rich florals which segued into the Big White Floral and then moved on to aquatics. See, eras of perfume are defined by certain styles. In 20 years time the kids now will be begging for confectionary gourmands, middle eastern style rose oudhs and heavily smoked woody ambers.

So here we have a smoky woods amber oud with raspberry as the defining difference. It’s fairly bombastic and smells pretty good. Actually, there are some marked similarities to Creed Carmina. While not the same they do have some crossover but Ombre Nomade is far less screechy and desperate for attention.

Ombre Nomade Louis Vuitton

I really like the way Ombre Nomade opens with darkness, a slightly medicinal woody oudh. Then it lets the raspberry sinuously slide in, snakelike and beautifully alluring. This is where the fragrance hits Carmina buttons and skews a little cough syrup, but luxuriously here and low key. Then a smoky amber woods comes through and pumps out long after I’ve lost the ability to smell it. The most common remark is that it smells like a smoky leather.

Masculine leaning unisex, extraordinary longevity and quite diffusive even when I can’t smell it anymore.

Did you ever?
Portia xx

 

Saturday Question: What Is Your Favorite Water-inspired Perfume?

Vacations are great. Coming back from them has its drawbacks, one of which, for those of us who still hold full-time “office” jobs, is catching up on emails, MS Teams/Slack/etc. messages and tickets in Jira. (Ha! My browser doesn’t know this word and suggests replacing it with “Lira,” “Mira,” “Kira” or maybe even “IRA”—I wonder, does it mean “Individual Retirement Arrangements” or “Irish Republican Army”? Anyway, getting tickets from either of the two upon return would have been, let’s say, unexpected if not disturbing. But I digress.) All that to say, I didn’t have time to “develop film” and still hope to share additional photos soon. But the majority of illustrations for today’s post are from that recent trip.

Saturday Question on Undina's Looking Glass

Saturday Question #236:

What Is Your Favorite Water-inspired Perfume?

I know, I know, many perfumistas shudder just from hearing the scary A-word (I mean, “aquatic”). But fear not: if you are one of those, I didn’t necessarily mean only “fresh, watery, and often marine-quality” scents. The question is much broader. It still can be a marine-related aroma. But it also can be something inspired by any body of water – an ocean, a seaside, a river bank, a pond or even a pool. The association can be by the scent, the name or any other connection.

My Answer

Hapuna Beach, where I spent my most recent Big Island (Hawaii) vacation, didn’t smell of “ocean” (you know, that combination of decaying seaweed, algae and decomposing marine life that we all romanticize when talking about our olfactory impressions from spending time at the seaside). And I like it because it’s not a scent I particularly enjoy, even though I don’t mind brief encounters with it.

The photos above are not from the beach I mentioned. That beach is a beautiful white sand beach, but since we go there for short swims, I usually don’t take my phone with me, so the only photo of that beach I was able to find was from 3 years ago.

Big Island Hapuna Beach 2021

Most photos I have of that beach were taken at sunset from the balcony of the condo we rented, so most aromas were food- and drink-related.

There were some floral aromas when we visited that waterfall at the Botanical Garden, but nothing to think of any particular perfume. The infinity pool at Mauka Meadows Botanical Garden and Coffee Plantation smelled of coffee that we were tasting sitting in front of it. And I suspect that the man-made pond at the golf course at best (worst?) would whiff of some disinfecting agent had I come closer, but luckily I didn’t have a chance to spoil the impression from that beautiful view.

The perfume I decided to offer as my favorite water-inspired scent is L’Artisan Parfumeur Traversee du Bosphore. As you can see, its connection to the topic is strictly in the name. That and the fact that Traversee du Bosphore is one of my favorite perfumes for a tropical vacation. And during this trip, as I almost finished my decant, I felt a pang of regret that I didn’t buy it when it was available because I didn’t want another 100 ml bottle in my collection… (sigh)

During this trip, while I wore my other favorites as well, Traversee du Bosphore fit my mood and the place the most.

Bosphorus Bridge

Bosphorus Bridge (Jorge1767, Public domain, via Wikimedia Commons)

How about you?

What Is Your Favorite Water-inspired Perfume?

Saturday Question: What Is The Oldest Perfume In Your Collection?

By the time I click Publish, it’ll be probably Sunday Question even where I live, but I just came back from Hawaii where for the next 3+ hours it’s still Saturday, so I’ll pretend that I’m still there. I plan to share some photos in a separate post next week, but for now, back to our regularly scheduled programming!

 

Saturday Question on Undina's Looking Glass

 

Saturday Question #235:

What Is The Oldest Perfume In Your Collection?

You can interpret the question any way you like. It can be the oldest perfume by the date created. Or the date it was recreated. Or you could go by years in your collection for either the same bottle or a repeated purchase of the same perfume. Do not count samples, but any other formats can participate.

My Answer

One of my most favorite perfumes of all times, Climat by Lancome, would definitely fit the bill if to go by the continuation of one perfume in my collection (and I even still have my very first bottle, sadly empty). But Climat is my answer to so many questions (which isn’t all that surprising), that for today’s question, I decided to go with something different.

Jasmin Impératrice Eugénie by Creed was originally created in 1860s (different sites give slightly different dates, and since it can’t be found on the brand’s site any longer, I can’t confirm the official version), which makes it the oldest perfume in my collection by the date of creation. It also was recreated in 1989, which is still older than probably 90% of all perfumes in my collection.

Creed Jasmin Imperatrice Eugenie

Now, it’s your turn.

 

What Is The Oldest Perfume In Your Collection?

Stash Unspoken by Sarah Jessica Parker

Stash Unspoken by Sarah Jessica Parker

Hey there ULGers, I have this perfume in my collection, Stash Unspoken. It’s not niche leaning, pushes zero boundaries and does not make me swoon with rapture every time I spritz it. So you’d think I would ignore it and wear other more interesting things, right? Nope. It gets the spritz way more often than many of my super amazing, eye rollingly gorgeous, weird and wonderful bottles. I have a theory, probably we have talked about this before. Sorry if it’s old news. While the boundary pushing elixirs are fabulous, fun to write about, share with perfumista buddies and swoon over; what I really want in my day to day life is to smell good. Simple, easy to waft, pretty and friendly fragrances that don’t overtake my mind with rapture in the midst of doing my daily whatever. I also love that it was relatively inexpensive. So if I get really busy or distracted and totally ignore it then so what?

Stash Unspoken by Sarah Jessica Parker 2017

Stash Unspoken

Parfumo gives these featured accords:
Top: Quince, Pink pepper
Heart: Honeysuckle, Peony, Wisteria
Base: Musk, Sandalwood, Tonka bean, Frankincense

Quince? I dunno. Maybe if you squint your nose, from a distance, backwards with a following breeze. It’s kind of fruity, a cross between fig and citrus so it could be quince and the zingy pink pepper berry gives it a lift.

None of the amorphous bouquet heart really seem to match the notes list at all, maybe some fruity rose. Maybe honeysuckle.

The base is a pretty, nondescript waft of sweet-ish woodsy nothings that don’t really have definition as notes.

Sounds like crap? It’s not. Well, not for me anyway. Stash Unspoken is so easy going and stress free. It got a really bad rap when released because the original Stash was so damn good. After that high bar everyone was expecting more fabulosity and what we got was something tame and friendly.

Well, stuff the haters, I really love Stash Unspoken and while wearing it last week noticed how empty my bottle is. So I jumped on FragranceNet (not affiliated) and bought a new one. 50ml for under US$20.

Are you a lover, hater or meh-er on Stash Unspoken?
Portia xx

Saturday Question: Which Perfumes Would You Take If You Had To Evacuate?

Last week, in the Perfume Chat Room at the Serenity Now blog, rickyrebarco told about having to evacuate because of Hurricane Helene and shared which perfumes she took with her. I commented that I was recently thinking about how hard it would have been to make such a choice. And Old Herbaceous suggested that it would be an excellent SQ. And here we are.

Saturday Question on Undina's Looking Glass

Saturday Question #234:

Which Perfumes Would You Take If You Had To Evacuate?

This isn’t a “house on fire” question. Hopefully, it would never happen to any of you, but if it does, grab your kids, your pets and, if there is time, the most important documents and run: not a single perfume or jewelry item, even an irreplaceable heirloom is worth your life. But with these evacuation orders that happen from time to time in different areas, usually, there is some time to put together things you might need until you can return and items you wouldn’t want to lose if the worse comes worst.

So, the question is about just that type of evacuation: you got everything your family needs for the next 3-5 days, the “worst case scenario” items are safely packed in your car. You have 10 minutes before you have to leave. Do you think you’d pack any of your favorites, just in case? If yes, which ones (and maybe why)?

 

My Answer

As I mentioned, I thought about it for a while. When I came up with my short list (I had to be realistic: I wouldn’t be able to safely pack more in the allocated 10 minutes), my first thought was that my choice was kind of “boring.” Not in terms of me selecting bad perfumes but rather because I periodically have the exactly same list when I answer other questions about my favorites. But then I realized that my choices weren’t made just because I love those perfumes and don’t want to be without them, but also because it would be hard (if not impossible) to replace them.

My list of perfumes that I would try to save if I could:

Lancôme Climat (the La Collection version, 2005)
Ormonde Jayne Ta’if (in parfum concentration)
Amouage Ubar (sadly discontinued)
Armani Prive La Femme Bleue (limited edition)
Jo Malone French Lime Blossom (again, discontinued)

But my heart would be breaking for at least 15 more perfumes from my collection I would hate not to have.

 

How about you?

Which Perfumes Would You Take If You Had To Evacuate?

Saturday Question: Do You Own Any Of Le Labo City Exclusives Perfumes?

In the early years of my descent into the proverbial rabbit hole, Le Labo‘s City Exclusives collection was available in September. I didn’t follow it closely, so I’m not sure when it changed, but this year I noticed that the collection opened for online orders on August 1st. I wonder if it’s the beginning of the end of that exclusivity idea. Anyway, earlier today I came across their “Last Call” ad: just 3 more days (until September 30th) left to buy one of these “special” perfumes.

Saturday Question on Undina's Looking Glass

Saturday Question #233:

Do You Own Any Of Le Labo City Exclusives Perfumes?

If yes, which ones? Do you keep trying new cities when they are added? In general, what do you think about this approach to rationing access to perfumes?

My Answer

I do not own a single full bottle of Le Labo perfumes, either from their Exclusives collection or their Classic line. With the Classic collection, it’s the brand’s “fault”: even though I like Rose 31 and Iris 39 a lot, I always thought their bottles weren’t attractive at all. Because of that, I wasn’t tempted to buy a bottle and instead voted for a much more economical (and not significantly less visually pleasing) decants from a FB splits group.

With the Exclusives collection, everything is even worse: not only are the bottles still the same ugly (for my taste, you might disagree), but the prices seem over the top. Le Labo’s regular perfumes aren’t the most affordable ($3.35/ml if you buy a 100 ml bottle), but the City Exclusives collection went even further charging $5.35/ml. And one has to jump through the hoops to buy these perfumes! I just don’t believe that raw materials for perfumes in that line cost more than for the regular line. And did I mention that I despise their apothecary-style bottles?

Still, I liked two of their perfumes enough to pay for decants. No, it wasn’t $5+ per ml. The first one, Poivre 23, I bought years ago for my vSO. Back then it was much cheaper. I think, there is still a couple of ml left in that decant. The second one, Vanille 44, almost made it to my full bottle collection, but in the wrist-to-wrist competition, Vanille by Mona di Orio won that spot in the end. Since then, after I finished the first decant generously shared with me by a perfumista friend, I bought the next one from Royalty Scents. I still don’t know how they could pull off the price I paid (they claim all their perfumes are authentic).

I said it before: I find stupid the idea of offering these days “hard-to-get” expensive perfumes in minimalistic packaging: times of niche scarcity are gone, and brands need to come up with something more dazzling and enticing to persuade consumers to splurge on that particular perfume out of thousands being released every year. For one, this consumer is not super interested even to drive 30 minutes to the boutique to try a new “exclusive” perfume for free.

 

How about you?

Do You Own Any Of Le Labo City Exclusives Perfumes?