Saturday Question: Do You Like Modern Niche Perfumes?

I know, I know, it’s a very broad question. But I thought: if “Do you like vintage perfumes?” is a legitimate question, why wouldn’t this one be?

Saturday Question on Undina's Looking Glass

Saturday Question #209:

Do You Like Modern Niche Perfumes?

Give your own definition to what you consider “modern,” and what you classify as “niche,” and after that tell me whether you like them, find new favorites, I’ll even dare to say – buy them?

My Answer

As a rule, I do not feel old (or even “older”). But recently I caught myself thinking that the way I feel about new niche perfumes that I come across makes me sound old, because my mental mantra these days is: “in my time” perfumes were better.

I am not talking about ingredients that were banned and substituted (even though, of course, that plays its role in my perception of new perfumes). I am not even complaining about lack of originality or not being memorable. But more and more I test new perfumes that smell either very minimalistic or too gender-neutral or overly artificial or not really perfume-y.

And after a while, I realized that those are not just poorly constructed perfumes (well, some of them are), but it seems like a new style. The industry keeps creating new aroma chemicals that become popular, and many new brands eagerly utilize them. They are not necessarily unpleasant, they don’t even smell identical. But many of them have some recognizable characteristics that just don’t excite or inspire me. And if perfumes aren’t expensive, I think: “Of course, how much could these aroma chemicals cost?” And if they are expensive, I think: “How could these aroma chemicals cost that much?!!”

I’m not a fan of vintage perfumes. I remember hundreds of perfumes of the past that I didn’t like. And I still come across some perfumes I like. But in general, I do not like the prevailing style of modern niche perfumes.

 

How about you?

Do You Like Modern Niche Perfumes?

Saturday Question: Have You Ever Used Someone Else’s Perfume Without Permission?

Don’t ask me how I came up with this one. It just emerged from some depth of my end-of-work-week brain (in the US, Good Friday isn’t a public holiday).

Saturday Question on Undina's Looking Glass

Saturday Question #208:

Have You Ever Used Someone Else’s Perfume Without Permission?

If yes, what were the circumstances? What perfume was that? Were you “caught”? Did/do you have that perfume in your collection?

My Answer

As a child, I loved perfumes my mother and grandmother wore. And sometimes they would allow me to use some. I understood what perfumes were, I knew that I wasn’t supposed to touch them on my own. But somehow the concept of perfume leaving an “evidence trail” of my misbehavior escaped me at that early age, so on more than one occasion, being left alone, I would perfume my favorite doll with one of my mom’s Diors (pure parfum!) or “sniff” my grandma’s Climat parfum almost dipping my nose in the bottle opening. I wasn’t sure afterwards how adults could tell that I touched their precious bottles.

As an adult, I resist those temptations. Though I have to admit to sniffing mini bottles in a couple of my friends’ bathrooms. I don’t know whether they wear perfumes they keep in those guest bathrooms, or if those are used for decorative purposes, but I was intentionally careful not to pick up any of the scents with my nose.

How about you?

Have You Ever Used Someone Else’s Perfume Without Permission?

Bloom Where You’re Planted

Bloom Where You’re Planted

GAH! I’m caught with my pants down ULGers. Why Bloom Where You’re Planted? Well I was reading March’s Moving On post of Perfume Posse while having a late morning congratulations on getting so much done already today cuppa… I do it at 11.30am when I’ve been a good drone and got shitloads done. 30 minutes on the computer just doing some catching ups, reading a blog or two and commenting. It’s a perfect breather so I can go back, do 12-1pm more work with renewed vigour and then quit for lunch hour. The reason I’m giving you a rolling conmentry from my mind is that I just realized it’s my day to write on ULG and I’d completely forgotten. There’s a half written piece on the updated Bull’s Blood by Imaginary Authors but it’s not finished and I just don’t have the bandwidth today to get it done. I’m trying to get all the bank statements together for last years tax, pay all the bills, fold the washing and get ready for work tonight. Suddenly I remembered. CRAP! So, instead of a piece dedicated to a perfume you’re getting a snapshot of my life and some perfumes that have been getting a spritz lately..

Bloom Where You're Planted ice flowers

Bloom Where You’re Planted

Yeah, I know. I’m starting to be a Hallmark card. Bloom Where You’re Planted! It’s so tired but when you ignore how often you’ve heard or seen it and how condescending it can feel then I love what it says. Bloom Where You’re Planted. It’s more than “Make the best of a bad situation” or “Lemonade from lemons”. It’s like, find a way to flourish and be your best you no matter where you find yourself. Anyway it speaks to me. Maybe because it’s the way I try to be.

So what have I been spritzing?

Iris Rebel by Atelier Cologne

Cold, rooty, slightly doughy iris. It’s transiently gorgeous before becoming a quiet wash of earthy woodiness. An easy wear that feels so cool.

Midnight Fantasy by Britney Spears

Fruity floral banger with a sticky vanilla baseline. It’s like a Christmas rom-com. Awful but so good and so easy to wear.

Ombre Indigo by Olfactive Studio

A blue metallic amber that whispers salt. Nothing I own hits the same spot. If you’re looking for a cozy cuddle of an amber then look elsewhere.

Rahele by Neela Vermeire Creations

Osmanthus done in a leathery style with backup fruits and other florals that ends up a smooth glasslike leather, so shiny you can see your reflection in it..

Bloom Where You're Planted

What do you think when you hear or see Bloom Where You’re Planted? What have you been spritzing lately?
Portia xx

 

PS: Just so you know, I completed this post in under 25 minutes. Back to work. See you in a fortnight with Bull’s Blood.

 

Saturday Question: What Would You Consider a Fair Perfume Sampling Offer?

Long gone those times when departments stores gave away bags of samples with (and sometimes even without) a purchase. And most niche brands know better than to part with free samples (sometimes even with the purchase). Samples became a commodity, and in most cases we have to pay for them.

Saturday Question on Undina's Looking Glass

Saturday Question #207:

What Would You Consider a Fair Perfume Sampling Offer?

Free samples with a purchase? Free for S&H? Discount for a future purchase? Some other arrangement?

My Answer

All brands, mass-market and niche, should shower paying clients with free samples. Samples can be small (0.7ml – 1.5 ml), and preferably they should have some correlation to what the customer bought. But in general, who is in a better position to be a returning customer if not the one who had already paid for something else? Instead, most stores became extremely stingy with samples, which miraculously find their way to eBay instead (that’s where I bought all those samples on the photo below).

With testing perfumes without a purchase, for brands that do not have significant store presence, it is harder. I realize that brands cannot just hand over free samples: people will abuse that, and the samples would end up at the same location as their mass-market brethren. But I also do not understand when brands charge 2-3 times more per ml for a tiny sample: how else are customers supposed to decide whether they want to buy perfumes from brands they aren’t familiar with?! $40-$75 (and more!) for a set of samples, most of which won’t be even finished (since most people would not like and want to wear all 5-7-10 perfumes in the line).

What do I see as a fair solution? An ability to choose 3-5 small free spray samples with minimal (if any) bells and whistles in packaging, and pay just for the delivery. The ratio of the perfume one gets to how much the delivery costs should be such that it wouldn’t make sense to abuse the system. Another possible solution would be deducting the full price of a discovery set (minus the delivery cost) from the future full bottle purchase: don’t sell me for $45 (+S&H) 12-15 ml of perfumes most of which I won’t even like offering a $25 discount later if I pay a full price for a $200+ bottle.

Rusty and La Prairie Life Threads Platinums Samples

How about you?

What Would You Consider a Fair Perfume Sampling Offer?

Saturday Question: Do You Wear Perfumes on a Plane?

I missed the last week’s SQ post: I was traveling for work, and it messed up my blog-related activities. But I’m glad to be back: I missed you all!

Saturday Question on Undina's Looking Glass

Saturday Question #206:

Do You Wear Perfumes on a Plane?

I was surprised to confirm that we haven’t done this question yet.

Do you have a routine for such trips? Any special perfumes or methods?

Bonus questions: When was the last time you were on a plane? What airline was it? How was your experience?

My Answer

My business trip (and the most recent flight) was to Las Vegas. One would think that it’s a good destination for such a trip, but I was at a conference where the company I work for was an organizer, and it was held off-off-strip (one of the resorts on the outskirt of the city), so this time I didn’t see Las Vegas much. But I got to wear several perfumes I brought with me without risking to suffocate anyone: those large open spaces were just asking for a hajusuuri-style application (but I settled for about four sprays at a time).

As for the plane, for many years my go-to perfume was Voyage d’Hermes dabbed from a mini bottle. It was our shared perfume with my vSO that fit perfectly to the idea of a travel perfume. And then I got tired of the scent, and Diptyque Volutes decanted in a roller-boll small bottle took its place as our shared travel perfume. But since this time I was traveling alone, I decided to go with something different – and chose Hermessence Musc Pallida (from a small decant bottle gifted by a generous friend). Applied to wrists, it was soft and pleasant, and I’m sure it didn’t bother anyone (on my short flight to Las Vegas there was an empty seat between me and another passenger, and on the return flight I got an upgrade, which also allowed an extra space – not that this perfume required such a precaution).

Shadow of a plane from the plane window

My flights both ways were on United Airlines. Boeing. Luckily – completely uneventful.

How about you?

Do You Wear Perfumes on a Plane?

From the Garden by Maison Martin Margiela 2023

From the Garden by Maison Martin Margiela 2023

Hi there ULGers, Maison Margiela is one of those fragrance houses that has kind of passed me by. There’s always a LOT of chatter about them on the boards, I’ve smelt a few of them, sometimes when I ask in the wild a very excited perfumista will tell me all about the provenance of their scent and Maison Martin Margiela’s Replica Collection. Basically an up market, niche version of the Demeter range with MUCH better longevity and interesting twists. It surprised me when looking up the brand that they’ve been around since 2010. So, while trawling Surrender To Chance NEW section not so long ago I noted that they had a brand new scent, being sold as a chypre and with such an alluring title as From The Garden. It was in the cart before I could even think it through.

From the Garden by Maison Martin Margiela

From the Garden by Maison Martin Margiela

Maison Margiela site gives these featured accords:
Top: Green Mandarin Essence – Grapefruit Essence – Blackcurrant Accord
Heart: Tomato Leaf Accord – Geranium Bourbon Heart Madagascar – Rose Accord
Base: Patchouli Indonesia – Cristal Moss – White Musks

Well they’re not lying about the fruity top. It’s got that unmistakeable perfume version of blackcurrant and a bright, screechy grapefruit that is both super sweet and tart AF. It’s a surprisingly gorgeous opening and I wish it lasted in that mode longer than the minute before tomato leaf makes a bold entrance, pushing all other notes into the background.  There they become a really good pillow to rest the tomato leaf on.

From the Garden by Maison Martin Margiela 2023

About an hour in the tomato leaf has decreased its power and is starting to let the geranium and patchouli add their respective charms.Loving the sharp geranium leaf that is almost photo realistic of rubbing a leaf between your fingers and then smelling the feisty waft. I’m sure the rose is mixed up in there but it’s not making a statement.

From the Garden by Maison Martin Margiela 2023

The dry down is a very calm dank earthy patchouli. Cristal moss is a synthetic moss recreation note and it does a very nice job here of adding a little furry greenery to the patchouli. It’s probably just me but in the base I smell basil leaves, just crushed for making pesto. It adds another dimension as we head towards fade.

From the Garden is a beautiful green chypre. A little darker than the 1970s version and though I hate to say it, more interesting. Maybe it’s the newness of the mixture and the front and centre of tomato leaf. Projection and longevity are moderate but the village is excellent. It really does change the air as you walk past.

Sound good?
Portia xx

 

 

 

Saturday Question: How Much Would You Pay For Your Favorite Perfume?

Discussing perfume prices, we periodically say something like “It is nice, but not enough to pay that price” or “I wouldn’t pay that much for what it is.” This usually describes our reaction to new for us perfumes that we just smelled or tried. And it is easier to dismiss a new scent that you have no emotional connection with yet. But let’s consider a hypothetical (once again – hypothetical!) situation: one of your top favorites was stolen from your collection. Would you want to get it back?

Saturday Question on Undina's Looking Glass

Saturday Question #205:

How Much Would You Pay For Your Favorite Perfume?

Would you pay its today’s official full price? How about more? What if it is not available for the official price? You know this perfume, it proved over the years that it works for you, and you love it (I’m sure you have at least one or two such perfumes in your collection – so, think of one of them). Provided that you’re guaranteed the authenticity and freshness, what is the absolute maximum you would be willing to pay to get it back even if it means not buying any other perfumes and having to save money for a year or two (or more) to do it? After which price you’d give up and decide that it’s not meant to be?

Don’t “cheat” thinking and telling us that you’d pay any price. But don’t disregard it completely either just because now you have a bottle and a back-up of it and don’t think you’ll ran out any time soon. Ask yourself how much that “one of the top N” perfumes is actually worth to you if you don’t have another choice.

My Answer

My quick scanning of my collection gave me an idea that even though I haven’t paid the full price for most of them, I would have paid a full retail price ($350 or less) for approximately 50 perfumes in my collection (I don’t mean for all of them but rather for any one of them). I wouldn’t want to replace them with anything newer, so if I had a budget, I would have funneled it first towards repurchasing one of these 50.

But if to talk about my absolute favorites – let’s say, one of the top 3 (Lancome Climat, Ormonde Jayne Ta’if and Amouage Ubar, two of which are sadly discontinued now), – I estimate that I might consider paying up to $1K for one of them if I knew they were genuine. I wouldn’t have done it lightly (it’s a lot of money!), but I would be willing to save my perfume budget for as long as it’s necessary to repurchase one of these three. Of course, all of these exercises assume that my regular bills are paid, I’m not starving, and the regular necessities are taken care of. So, one thousand doesn’t feel like something completely out of question. Would I pay more? I don’t know. On one hand, it seems crazy to spend that much on perfume. But then… If I really think that they are that great and love them, aren’t they worth twice as much? Three times? I really hope never to test my hypothesis.

 

How about you?

How Much Would You Pay For Your Favorite Perfume?

Petrichor by Marissa Zappas

Petrichor by Marissa Zappas

Hi there crew, From MetroOffice: Petrichor is the smell of rain. The word comes from the Greek words ‘petra’, meaning stone, and ‘ichor’, which in Greek mythology refers to the golden fluid that flows in the veins of the immortals. The phrase was coined by two researchers at the Australian CSIRO science agency in a 1964 article for the journal Nature. I do love it when the Aussies get stuff done right. As an aside, the CSIRO plant was in the next suburb to where I grew up and as we would drive past there were always strange and wonderful scents emanating. Sadly the area got sold off and is now an up market apartment building estate.

Petrichor by Marissa Zappas 2022

Marissa Zappas site gives these featured accords:
Top: Damp earth, lemon
Heart: Immortelle, orris, vetiver
Base: Ambergris, sandalwood, moss, musk

Marissa Zappas is a new name to me. I bought this decant from Surrender To Chance because I love the word Petrichor. This lids of the bottles look a little like those Stéphane Humbert Lucas 777 lids in pictures. I’d love to know how similar they are in life if any of you has had a hold?

How does Petrichor smell? The opening is sharp citrus and earthy iris root. Is it like that unbelievably glorious scent after the first few drops of rain? Not really but it does capture the feeling I get when I smell it. Does that make sense? Here, even in the city when the rain first hits we get this hint of eucalyptus to go with the concrete moisture. It’s cool and mentholated sweetness adds a bright and sparkling tint.

In Marissa Zappas homage to Petrichor it is as if we are experiencing it from inside the apartment. We are warm and rugged up. Looking outside we notice the rain just starting and open a window. Sure, there is the smell of newly wet concrete but also the scent of comfortable living. It’s a beautiful perfume picture and I am enjoying it immensely.

Ask we head towards dry down the damp earth, shady bench seat at the park, and flick of umbrellas is sitting perfectly beside the luxurious creamy warmth of the sandalwood and slightly furry yellow/white treacle like floral of immortelle. BEAUTIFUL!

I’m smitten and Petrichor has just hit the Top 5 on my To Buy List. As soon as I have a few extra $$. GAH! Just looked and it’s currently SOLD OUT! Damnit. Let’s hope it comes back.

Sound good to you?
Portia xx

Saturday Question: Do You Write Reviews?

I understand that those of my readers who have blogs post perfume reviews, this is given. I’m not talking about posts or comments on blogs, Instagram, Twitter or Facebook. The question is about designated review spots where your feedback will stay with the product/service and will be visible to others.

Saturday Question on Undina's Looking Glass

Saturday Question #204:

Do You Write Reviews?

The main question, of course, is about perfume reviews. Do you write them on one of the large perfume sites? How about online perfume stores? Perfume decanter sites/services?

And a wider, general question is whether you leave any reviews, for any products, services or experience.

My Answer

As most of you probably noticed by now, I rarely publish anything remotely resembling perfume reviews even on my perfume blog, so I don’t remember even once being tempted to write a perfume review anywhere else. For me, perfume reviews are useful if I know (I mean, virtually) a person whose opinion I’m reading because that allows me to “calibrate” expectations based on what I know about the reviewer’s tastes. Reading Fragrantica reviews from time to time, I’m amazed at how different people’s perceptions of the same perfume might be and how categorical some of them sound, even when their opinion completely contradicts everybody else’s. I wouldn’t dare. Not with my nose.

As to the other types of reviews, for many years the only place where I was almost religiously leaving feedback was eBay: since I myself rely a lot on the sellers’ reputation, I thought it was my duty to contribute to those ratings. But my feedback is usually done for the “service” (how well the seller described the item, how quickly it was delivered, etc.) and not for the product itself.

On several occasions, I left a review for a restaurant (because I was annoyed; they were mostly negative) and for an Airbnb/VRBO rental (those were mostly positive – but only because I was lucky with my choices, thanks to reading other people’s reviews!).

Other than that, I rarely write any product reviews: Who cares whether I liked (for example) that iron or blanket? – I was thinking. But over the years, I started feeling almost guilty about it: I noticed that I heavily rely not even on the ratings people leave for different products but for additional information and sometimes personal photos of those products – be that on Amazon, Sephora or other sites that sell products I am not familiar with or can’t try at a store. So, I’m thinking that I should start contributing more actively – to warn others about products that I find subpar or to offset ratings from idiots who complain about items being not of the size they expected – even though measurements were clearly stated in the description.

Rusty Fragile

How about you?

Do You Write Reviews?

Saturday Question: Do You “Collect” Anything (Besides Perfume)?

I think we all understand that while talking about our perfumes, the use of the word “collection” is somewhat a stretch: it is a collection in terms of being an assembly of items of the same type, probably even systematically arranged. But since the objects of the collection, perfumes, are being used (no matter how infrequently) and also can spoil, the “collection” part is a figure of speech rather than a literally meaning. Today’s question should be considered in this context.

Saturday Question on Undina's Looking Glass

Saturday Question #203:

Do You “Collect” Anything (Besides Perfume)?

As it is hopefully clear from the introduction, the question is not about collecting art, baseball cards or vintage Hermes scarves. A “fair game” would be something that is/can be used up, which you’re buying in excess of regular use/consumption. Food, drinks, bath and body products, socks, ties, pens, paperclips, umbrellas, etc., etc. – I hope you got the idea.

If you have photos of your collections somewhere online and can share, please do.

My Answer

I LOVE lipsticks. It has been a while since I posted about them, but for a non-beauty-centric blog, the number of posts on the topic of lipsticks is quite telling: Lipstick Extravaganza, Lipstick Queen’s Mixed Metaphor, Sunday Self-care, Episode 6: Read My Lip… Care Choices, The (Last?) Two Queens, (Pillow) Talking myself into buying perfume, They had me at “Hello” – and now “Goodbye”, Frog Prince(ss)’s Kiss, Black Lace in Tropics, and more, but I’ll stop here.

A couple of years ago, I decided to sort all lipsticks I had at that time by color, take pictures of them and swatches, and have those photos with me every time I think of buying another one while at a counter. These are pictures of almost complete “collection” of my lipsticks back then.

I use lipsticks, lip balms, lip veils and other lip products daily. So, since these pictures were taken, I used up some of the lipsticks I had. Lock-down and not shopping as often somewhat helped to slow down my acquisitions, but still, I bought more than I finished (I think – I’m afraid to count).

 

Do You “Collect” Anything (Besides Perfume)?