Saturday Question: What Would Your City’s Le Labo Exclusive Smell Of?

Saturday Question: What Would Your City’s Le Labo Exclusive Smell Of?

Hello Fellow Fumies,

At ULG we have a Saturday Question. Everyone gets to chime in with an answer, chat with other responders and it’s a fun event each week. Taking sides never means taking offence and everyone keeps it respectful and light, even though we can sometimes trawl the depths.

The idea is you’ll see it on the weekend or chime in through the week. Hopefully you will come back regularly and see if anyone has responded to your comment and you can reply to them. The aim is to generate real conversation and connection even though we are scattered around the globe.

 


Saturday Question: What Would Your City’s Le Labo Exclusive Smell Of?

Found this amazing question on  Facebook many years ago. Audrey posed the question and there were some really terrific answers. Don’t worry if your city has been done. Give it your own twist, tell your story through scent.

If Le Labo did a city exclusive for your closest city, what would be the note focus? You can only choose one city for the name but include a bunch of notes that you think would be symbolic of the atmosphere there.

My Answer:

Sydney: Aquatic, Ozonic, Salty, Car Fumes, Eucalyptus and Mown Grass with the smell of baristas making sweet, clean Coffee running in and out through the whole life of the fragrance. There would also need to be some Spices, Sydney is very multicultural and one of the things I love about walking its streets is the diversity of food smells coming from shops and homes. I’m thinking there should also be hints of smoke from the famous Aussie BarBQs.

My Saturday Question to you is:

What Would Your City’s Le Labo Exclusive Smell Of?

Assam of India by Parfums Berdoues

Assam of India by Parfums Berdoues

Hey Hey ULGers! Lovely to have you in the blog-house. Over the years Robin and the NST crew have talked lovingly of Assam of India. I tried it early on and loved it but then completely forgot it even existed till a couple of years ago when it came up again on a few Friday Community Projects over there. Having spent every cent on travel last year and other expenses this year it’s been a financially enforced low buy 18 months. Seeing the light at the end of the tunnel meant I gave myself permission to grab a couple of things. Jin’s signature perfume Bottega Veneta EdP has been DCd, so I grabbed him a backup or two from FragranceNet (not affiliated). While there I noticed Assam of India Testers were cheap, so it went in the cart. YAY! Now it has arrived and I’m thinking you all up in the warming Northern Hemisphere will go ape shit for its super summer wearability.

Assam of India by Parfums Berdoues 2015

Assam of India by Parfums Berdoues

Parfums Berdous give these featured accords:
Menton lemon, Indian tea, Mysore sandalwood

Do you ever wish for a crisp, beautiful, no nonsense but lovely to smell tea forward fragrance that will suit any mood in the warmer months and many in the cooler? Does the bottle make a difference? Is super cuteness without being childish a win? Then we might just have the perfect scent for you here today.

Immediately a sweet citrus, much sweeter and softer than lemon to my nose. Veery pomelo. Soon after there is a hint of those little square travel mints and then, interestingly it turns less sweet and gets the tart edge I expect from lemon.

You’d expect the tea to be very Earl Grey with such a burst of citrus. It’s not. While I do get the dry back of throat feeling that tea in perfume often gives me it’s not black tea. More of a green tea herbal concoction and I get very specific chamomile and dandelion references. Also lovely hints of basil and later a bitter green angelica. The sandalwood never really makes much of an appearance and Assam of India stays fairly green tea and herbs.

Yes, I’m sure you all get entirely different rides but these are consistent olfactory markers for me through a few wears. Funny how it happens.

Assam of India by Parfums Berdoues short shot

Utterly unisex. Lasts surprisingly well before becoming a wash of green nothings. Not a huge perfume but definitely changes the air around you. Like a bit of a creeper that someone will notice after minutes sitting right next to you, then they’ll say something. I do get why it’s so popular and think it would make a terrific gift to non perfumistas who are after something more interesting than most department store fare.

Are any of you fans of Assam of India?
Portia xx

 

Saturday Question: What Is the Most Youthful Perfume in Your Collection?

I’m running a little late this week because in the last moment, I decided to make a question that I had into a longer post (hopefully, coming up soon), and then I had to quickly find another SQ that would feel right for today. But here we go.

 

Saturday Question on Undina's Looking Glass

 

Saturday Question #219:

What Is the Most Youthful Perfume in Your Collection?

Leaving aside that we all subscribe to the idea that any perfume can be worn by any gender or age and not trying to use any formal definition of “youthful perfume” – just based on your internal feeling and personal classification, what perfume from those that you have in any format (not counting samples) you would consider the most youthful? If it helps, imagine that you would want to make a decant for a 12 years old niece or recommend to a 14 years old son of a friends whose tastes you do not know but had to limit the choice only by what you have at home. If 12-14 is too young, try 16-18.

My Answer

I think I mentioned it before, I come with these Saturday Questions first and then start thinking how I would answer. So, imagine my surprise when I went through the list of perfumes I own and realized that I would have a really hard time making that decant. Looking through my favorites, I find them either not interesting enough or … “too much” for an imaginary teen or adolescent.

But I can’t not answer my own question, can I? So, I spent some time sifting through the list and came up with three perfumes I think might fit the bill: Jo Loves No. 42 The Flower Shop, Jo Malone Peony & Blush Suede and Ineke Hothouse Flower.

Rusty and Jo Loves The Flower Shop

How about you?

 

What Is the Most Youthful Perfume in Your Collection?

Second Sunday Samples: Jo Malone Scented Mementos Collection

Jo Malone is a very special brand for me: over the years, I’ve tested over a hundred of their perfumes, more than any other single brand. And thanks to the combination of their accessibility (several stores nearby carry the line), pioneering small format (10-15 years ago, not that many brands had even 30 ml bottles), relative affordability and focus on my favorite perfume family, florals, Jo Malone is the best-represented brand in my collection.

My top 12 perfumes from the brand are French Lime Blossom, Sweet Milk, Mimosa & Cardamom, Orange Bitters, Blackberry & Bay, Dark Amber & Ginger Lily, English Pear & Freesia, Lotus Blossom & Water Lily, Pomegranate Noir, Wild Fig & Cassis, Black Vetyver Cafe, Wood Sage & Sea Salt.

And even though in the last five years, only a couple of new perfumes interested me enough to get a mini bottle, I continue to check all their new releases religiously.

My recent trip to the Jo Malone counter at Nordstrom has almost resulted in an impulsive purchase. I saw their Scented Mementos collection and wanted it before I even sprayed any on paper.

Jo Malone Scented Mementos Collection

“A limited-edition collection inspired by unique pieces filled with memories, found at the British antique market.”

* * *

I’m not into antiques or trinkets. I don’t even like vintage perfumes. But every time in our travels we come across an antique store, in some childish hope I expect to find there something magical there… In all the years that I’ve been doing that, I bought just a couple of mini bottles. But since one of them was a perfect replica of Chamade extrait bottle, I keep searching.

I saw all of Jo Malone’s limited edition collections in the last 13 years, and I liked many of the perfumes as well as the colorful variations on the standard Jo Malone bottles. But these bottles from the Scented Mementos collection fit the theme spectacularly. Not only they are very different from anything previously released by the brand, but they are so eclectic and random that you can easily imagine them being picked up at a garage sale, flea market or provincial antique shop. In the photo above, they seem larger than they are in real life, and I was drawn to them.

I sprayed them all on paper strips… and liked three out of four, which paradoxically saved me from an impulse purchase right there on the spot. Even if it weren’t for my low-buy year, I couldn’t imagine buying three perfumes after a brief sniff, no matter how cute and cohesive I found the collection to be. So, I sprayed two perfumes on my wrist, borrowed my vSO’s wrist for the third, and continued shopping, periodically sniffing all three wrists to decide which one should come home with me. By the time I was ready to leave, I still couldn’t make up my mind and left without getting any of them.

At home, as we probably all do from time to time after sniffing something we liked, I started searching the web to see if maybe one of the stores had some promotion that would entice me to buy one of them… but then, even if could find any, which one? In the end, I was happy to see that the Jo Malone site had a discovery set for the collection (smart!) and bought it without hesitation.

Jo Malone Scented Mementos Collection Samples

Musk Memento (the rightmost on the photo) with a bottle that strongly reminds me of vintage Estee Lauder Pleasures perfume was the only one from this collection that I didn’t like. To my nose, it smells like a laundry detergent, and I wouldn’t have used it even as such since I prefer unscented ones. The positive aspect of this perfume is that it smells exactly as intended if judged by the brand’s description:

“A clean musk scent inspired by a ceramic soap dish. I’ve long loved the scent of a traditional soap bar […]. The nostalgia and comfort are captured in clean notes of soft musk and aldehyde, a sprinkle of English lavender and elegant cedarwood.” If I deciphered correctly from the recent interview in The Cheshire Magazine, the nose behind this perfume is Marie Salamagne. I liked just a couple of plethora of perfumes she authored, so I’m not surprised that Musk Memento left me unimpressed. Ironically, it is the most tenacious of all.

Ginger Beer created by (I think) Yann Vasnier is a spicy woody composition with a prominent citrus opening that quickly subsides, and after about 20 minutes all I get is a delightful slightly sweet skin scent. I can’t tell if it smells even reminiscent of the beverage it borrowed its name from (I’m not sure I’ve ever tried it), but I like how it smell. The Ginger Beer bottle doesn’t remind me of anything in particular, but it looks well-made and is pleasant to hold.

The last two perfumes, Emerald Thyme and Passiflora, were created by Anne Flipo. Emerald Thyme is a heavenly cologne for all 15 minutes of its development, and then it becomes a very pleasant skin scent. The juicy bright and slightly sweet lemon opening is mouthwatering (literally!). As it dries down, the sweetness goes away together with the lemon, and what is left is a masculine-leaning dry composition grounded by herbs. The Emerald Thyme’s bottle looks like many cologne bottles I saw before, but I can’t pinpoint any specific one.

Passiflora is the most feminine perfume in the collection. It’s warm and smooth from the first slightly spicy cardamom burst until the comforting ambery-vanilla skin scent in 30 minutes after the application. When I picture Passiflora’s bottle in my mind, I feel on the verge of recognition: I definitely saw another perfume in a similar bottle… but it slips away, and I cannot place it.

* * *

I love these bottles. I quite enjoy Ginger Beer, Emerald Thyme and Passiflora, and would gladly wear them. But at $3/ml, these perfumes just shouldn’t be that fleeting! I can live with reapplying perfumes after 2-3 hours, and my collection of Jo Malone perfumes is proof of that. But a skin scent 20-30 minutes into the development?! It feels like they are giving customers just enough time to make a purchase decision at a counter. That doesn’t feel right.

Despite that, if they had released a set of mini-bottles for this collection, I would have paid even more per ml just because I would love to have this bottles in my collection.

 

Images: my own

Saturday Question: Are You Tempted by Chanel No 5 L’Eau Drop Bottle?

On June 13, Chanel is releasing a new limited edition of their Chanel No 5 flanker – Chanel No 5 L’Eau. It’ll be available in their boutiques and on chanel.com. I’m not sure why they decided to call it “Drop”: it looks rather like an egg, but that’s how it is referenced on the Chanel site. And “a drop of perfume” sounds a lot better than… you got it. It holds the same No 5 L’eau from 2016 (or at least they claim so: who knows how many reformulations it went through in the years passed). It will be available in one size, 50 ml, and the US price is $155. You might be more than positive that it will sold out, and even if it gets to one of the retailers, it won’t survive long enough to wait for some site-wide promotion.

 

Saturday Question on Undina's Looking Glass

 

Saturday Question #218:

Are You Tempted by Chanel No 5 L’Eau Drop Bottle?

Do you like this perfume? Do you have it in your collection? Are you contemplating the purchase of this limited edition bottle?

My Answer

I tried just a tiny sample of No 5 L’Eau (that’s how I requested it from a perfumista friend since I didn’t expect to like it and didn’t want to waste her perfume), and unexpectedly I liked it. It wasn’t love-love to send me buying that perfume immediately, but I was considering a purchase if I happen to come across it at a Duty-free store. It haven’t happened yet.

This bottle looks appealing to me. If it weren’t for my “low-buy” this year, I would have tried to buy it. I am arguing with myself and still not sure if I want to make an exception. We’ll see.

How about you?

 

Are You Tempted by Chanel No 5 L’Eau Drop Bottle?

The Sandalwood Shop Australia CLOSING

The Sandalwood Shop Australia CLOSING

Hi there ULGers, Sad news last week. The Sandalwood Shop is closing with a 50% off sale. Australian sandalwood, of all three varieties are represented. There are two international imports and an indigenous one. All of them get a mentholated, slightly rougher open from our incredibly red, iron rich soil and its nutrients but give them a minute and AHHHHHHH. Heaven.

The Sandalwood Shop Australia CLOSING

If you love sandalwood and want to buy, be quick. Quite a bit of the stock has sold out already. You won’t find any of the sandalwood bead jewellery left, which is a shame because the smell is divine. What you will still find, that can be sent overseas, are beautiful bath and body ranges. I particularly love their body lotions and hand washes. The soap bars are gorgeous too. At 50% off it’s a steal. PLUS you’ll have a little piece of Australia that smells utterly divine. They even have a small range of sandalwood lipsticks, YUM!

The Sandalwood Shop Australia CLOSING

It makes me sad when really good quality, beautiful products stop being produced.

Here’s your last chance to try them,

Portia xx

 

Saturday Question: Are Perfume Splits Dead?

I like NST. Whenever I get there, I enjoy glancing over some perfume news and reading friendly exchanges in daily SOTD threads. It doesn’t happen often these days because I’m too busy when most people are active there, so by the time I can take a break most commenters are already gone – and I didn’t see a point in talking into void. So, with any extra time I have, I prefer to visit friendly blogs. But I am trying to watch for splitmeets because it used to be my steady source of 5 ml “samples” for interesting new releases.

This year I knew it was coming – and then almost missed it. I remembered about it last moment, went there in some giddy anticipation… and was both surprised and disappointed. Not only I didn’t find anything that would interest me (I’m not even sure what I wanted – maybe Chanel Comete?), but the even itself was quite underwhelming: 8 splits were offered, just 2 of them “closed,” 2 got no takers, and the rest gathered some interest, but I don’t know whether they went through.

 

Saturday Question on Undina's Looking Glass

 

Saturday Question #217:

Are Perfume Splits Dead?

From the SQ four years ago, I know that many of my loyal readers did not participate in splits for various reasons. But my today’s question is not just about whether you stopped or didn’t start participating in friendly splits, but also about your opinion as to what’s happening with this part of our hobby. And, if your answer is “Yes,” why do you think it is happening?

My Answer

I know, this is my fault, it happens to me all the time: I might be going to a restaurant or a store for years; then something happens that introduces a prolonged pause in my visits; and the next time I decide that “It’s been too long, let’s visit X!” I find that X has closed. So, with my no/low-buy in the last couple of years, I’m not surprised the splitting subsided.

Jokes aside… I know, this is my fault. Well, not just mine, since probably each of you contributed to this. More and more brands have finally realized that “perfumista size bottles” (10-15 ml), about which we all kept talking for the last 13+ years, is where money are. And while small bottles from brands are more expensive per ml than a friendly split, those official bottles survive better than their manually decanted counterparts. So, having said our farewells to more than one evaporated decant neglected in our collections for two long, when (or rather “if”) adding anything else to our SABLEs (“Stash Above and Beyond Life Expectancy,” according to Vanessa’s (Bonkers About Perfume) SIL), we might be more inclined to buy a travel bottle.

 

What do you think? Is it my fault?

 

Are Perfume Splits Dead?

Saturday Question: Do You Like Musk Perfumes?

Musk in perfumery was recently on my mind: Portia just published a post about Musk by Lorenzo Villoresi, and while commenting on that post, I discovered that I had more than 25 perfumes in my database that had one of the variations on the word “musk” in the name. Also, one of new perfumes I’ve been testing features that note (stay tuned for the mini-review post).

 

Saturday Question on Undina's Looking Glass

 

Saturday Question #216:

Do You Like Musk Perfumes?

If yes, what are your favorites? If no, are you sensitive to any musks or some specific ones?

My Answer

I have never thought about musk as a leading note in perfumery: it was mostly a base note in perfumes I liked or didn’t like but not something that would define how inclined I am to feel one way or the other about new perfume I intended to try.

What I didn’t like about this (or any other) note was when it was used as a name of perfume. Not because I know that I do not like the scent profile but because I don’t like that type of names.

But what about perfumes? I decided to look only at those perfumes from the list of testes perfumes that had “musk” (“musc”) as a part of their names.

It looks like I don’t like musk in my perfumes, after all: of the 27 perfumes in my database with “musk” in the name, I do not own a single bottle (full or travel) and only one small decant.

Out of all musk perfumes I’ve ever tested, I would like to own only three – Annick Goutal Musc Nomade (the original one; I haven’t tried the last at least two reformulations, so I’m not sure that I would even like it now), Hermes Musc Pallida (maybe one day, but today I can’t bring myself to pay its price) and maybe Ramon Molvizar Musk Oriental Goldskin (but I tried it only once, many years ago, so even if it hadn’t been as expensive as it is, I wouldn’t have bought a FB without trying it again). There were 2-3 more that I thought were nice but not to the extent of wanting more.

 

How about you?

 

Do You Like Musk Perfumes?

Musk by Lorenzo Villoresi

Musk by Lorenzo Villoresi

Howdy Looking Glassers, Another bottle bought for a song from a friend’s FaceBook Sale post. Though I’ve been to Florence a few times and always hit Santa Maria Novella, so far I’ve not been to the Lorenzo Villoresi store. I have tried a few of them over time but can’t remember where, how or with whom. Another of my mates Scotty is mad keen for Teint de Neige and wears it in glorious abundance. He has a very rude name for it and I can’t for the life of men remember what it is. Bummer. Today we are talking about my first bottle, only half full, from the house; Musk.

Musk by Lorenzo Villoresi 1995

Musk by Lorenzo Villoresi

Lorenzo Villoresi site gives these featured accords:
Top: Galbanum, Cardamom, Flowers, Bergamot
Heart: Geranium, Rose
Base: Musk, Sandalwood, Oakmoss, Rosewood, Vanilla

First breath is all galbanum. That green, smooth, furry resin. It’s quickly underpinned by sharp geranium leaves and a very green rose like torn rose petals and leaves. It isn’t till well into the heart that the cardamom makes an appearance, giving the flowers and resin a powdery green tinge. I’m surprised there’s no heliotrope mentioned, or iris.

About an hour later Musk has turned delightfully carnation and powder with vanilla and oakmoss humming along beside. It’s very pretty and a true powder bomb. Very satisfying.

Musk Lorenzo Villoresi

Projection is moderate to low after initial intensity, longevity is moderate.

Musk is not an eye rolling gorgeous, to die for fragrance. It’s low key, beautifully put together, seamless and a very enjoyable wear. Perfect for when you want to smell goods but not be a perfume bully.

Sound good to you?
Portia xx

 

Saturday Question: Perfume Names In What Language Do You Prefer?

Many of us speak (or at least read) more than one language. Does it influence what names we favor when it comes to perfumes?

Saturday Question on Undina's Looking Glass

Saturday Question #215:

Perfume Names In What Language Do You Prefer?

It doesn’t matter whether you own or even like those perfumes, just thinking about perfume names, do you have a preference for the language of the name?

My Answer

I do not like French names: it’s enough that probably until the end of my days when I speak English people will be asking me “Where are you from?”, so trying to figure out which of the 5 letters in the end of the name are silent when answering the question “What perfume are you wearing?” isn’t my idea of fun.

I thought I would go with “English” as my answer, but after thinking about it for a while, I realized that I prefer portmanteau names, which merge parts of two or more real words (preferably English) into a single, innovative term, such as Splendiris, Felanilla, Irisistable or Sheiduna.

Rusty and Dusita Splenderis

How about you?

Perfume Names In What Language Do You Prefer?