Author: AustralianPerfumeJunkies

Santal Noir by DIOR
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Santal Noir by DIOR

Hi there ULGers, DIOR is one of my most collected brands. The Couturier range, now called La Collection Privée Christian Dior, has changed and evolved over time. Created by the DIOR in house perfumer at the time François Demachy. Francis Kurkdjian took the reins in 2021 and has done some interesting things. It was a surprise to me that though I own a bottle up till now I’ve not reviewed Santal Noir. The fragrance designed around Mr Christian Dior’s love for the colour black. As you can see, I rarely reach for it but when the mood strikes only Santal Noir will do.

I’m not buying any more large DIOR Collection bottles. They have changed the sizes and that shits me beyond words. Shrinkenomics in action. If I love something then I’m only buying the 40ml. Yes, it’s more expensive BUT then it won’t stand out like dogs balls as different to my 125ml and 250ml bottles. DIOR can suck it.

Santal Noir by DIOR 2018

Santal Noir by Dior

Cited featured accords:
Sandalwood, Leather, Woods, Rose, Ambrette

Opening gambit is scratchy dark woods, a little bit eucalyptus and very earthy. Pretty soon there is a jammy rose that peeks through and some smooth, sweet resins.

Not too long ago wait for a brand-new-shoe leather smell bubbling up. You know when you open the box at the store and pull out a never before touched shoe? You smell it and the mixture of leather, tanning materials, colours and finishes all greets you. It’s such a wonderful smell. Imagine you are smelling that smell but it’s in a dream. So not really but definitely in the same realm.

It’s not till all of these other notes have made their presentation that the dry yet creamy sandalwood of fragrance enters. It plays happily alongside the rest until it takes its moment to rise above. Yes, the rest of the backing chorus is still there but they have been overshadowed. It’s nice to have a sandalwood that is not buoyed by coconut, ylang or masses of vanilla. I do think there is a little amber hiding in the mix though.

Santal Noir by Dior

Is this a brand new look at sandalwood? No, we’ve smelled this kind of treatment before, especially in some of the 21st century niche and a few of the earlier masculine designers. It’s the backing players and the refined blend that makes Santal Noir stand head and shoulders above most others. I do like this dry, mainly unsweetened or tropicalised version of sandalwood. It’s restrained and solid.

Where do you stand on bottle changes mid run? Do you like the idea of a less flamboyant sandalwood?
Portia xx

Bulgari Man Wood Neroli
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Bulgari Man Wood Neroli

Hi there Looking Glassers. I’m surprised we’ve not talked about this fragrance. The Bulgari Man pillar is one of the designer sets that is constantly better than expected. They are nicely produced, smell pretty good plus plus and won’t break the bank. The OG was and is stunning. I bought this 15ml Wood Neroli for Jin as stocking filler one year but it didn’t get a lot of wear. Now it’s in my wardrobe and I’ve been giving it a red hot go this summer. Hoping to thunk it TBH. I do love the smaller size, most of the flankers are available in 15ml and it is a perfect size to throw in the bag for gym, office, travel etc.

Bulgari Man Wood Neroli 2019

Wood Neroli

Featured accords include:
Top: Neroli, Bergamot
Heart: Orange Blossom, Virginia Cedar, Cypriol Oil or Nagarmotha
Base: Woody Notes,White Musk, Ambergris, Amber, Leather

I’m not sure why this was not a heavily used perfume in Jin’s wardrobe. I remember we got spritzed at the mall just before C19 lockdown and him being in raptures. Even talking about it a few days later. It went on a list. Grabbed the 15ml so he could use it as a gym/swim after shower spritz. Nope. Almost never got used.

Wood Neroli

Don’t let the MAN fool you. Wood Neroli is a bright, citrus forward wood with a tinge of salty sea breeze that can be worn by anyone. As the Northern Hemisphere heads into warmer temperatures this could be a very affordable refreshing rest button. That’s how I use it. Available for very decent prices at the discounters. It’s not free but compared the ridiculous aspirational pricing of many designer perfumes right now, not outrageous. A solid gift for the non perfiumista male (except Jin, obvs.). I bought mine at FragranceNet.

Sound good?
Portia xx

 

Mitsouko EdT by Guerlain
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Mitsouko EdT by Guerlain

Hi there ULGers, You may know that Shalimar is my ride or die perfume. It has been part of my life since childhood, Mum and a few of her girlfriends wore it. It still smells so good on and to me. Thing is, wearing Shalimar is a big deal and it takes a lot of attention. So what’s happened is that Mitsouko has become something much easier for me to wear. A Guerlain for all seasons. It’s less memory scent, less awe inspiring ride and much less distracting. Without making it less beautiful, tapestried or interesting. I can wear Mitsouko and go about my day. The reason you’re getting this post is because I just gave myself a lavish spritzing.

Mitsouko EdT by Guerlain

mitsouko

These are the commonly offered featured accords:
Top: Bergamot, Rose, Jasmine, Citruses
Heart: Peach, Ylang-Ylang, Lilac, Rose, Jasmine
Base: Oakmoss, Spices, Vetiver, Cinnamon, Amber

I’m writing to you from the past. Currently Jin, Anna Maria and her husband Johnny and I are on an adventure together. We are off to Singapore and Busan, South Korea. Yes, I’m hoping there will be updates once we return.

Mitsouko EdT! Jacques Guerlain’s 1919 masterpiece is a mind blowing, blowsy, retro hit of gorgeousness. Did you know it was the first fruity chypre? Its peach note, which I find smells like the lid of a tin of canned peaches, was groundbreaking at the time. While smelling dated AF it still smells brand new and bang up to date as well. Because it’s a style not worn by modern youth, it feels brand new, subversive and oh so elegant.

The fruits of Mitsouko are not lush and juicy but sharp, metallic and very sunshiny. In comparison to Shalimar’s regal overblown elegance Mitsouko is definitely the Princess Margaret of the family. I really don’t smell most of the noted parts, Mitsouko is her own scent. A glamorous melange of that not quite real peach, a bouquet and spices all drizzled over a labdanum rich amber and that lovely furry oakmoss.

The top and heart are lovely but what really makes me swoon is the dry down. Which lasts for hours and hours. That peach/amber/oakmoss meld, with all the bit players, combines to create such a harmonious beauty. It’s dry but fleshy, sparkling ands spicy yet furry, cuddly and scintillating.

Mitsouko EdT by Guerlain

I’m wearing a vintage version but even the modern bottle shown below holds a delectable scent. Not quite as fusty as mine, the modern is a clearer, sheerer, brighter concoction that feels slightly more in line with modern tastes. Though it still has the marvelous shape of the vintage.

I’m seriously glad we are in a new era of the art nouveau inverted heart bottle designed originally by Raymond Guerlain in 1912. It’s such an icon of perfumery and feels good in my hand.

Mitsouko EdT by Guerlain

Are you a Mitsouko fan?
Portia xx

 

 

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NOTHING but APJ Scent Diary

Hi there ULG crew, I’m well behind this fortnight and really have come up dry. There are a couple of half finished posts that I’ll get to but honestly, my head is not in the game. I’ve started back writing the Australian Perfume Junkies Scent Diary. You might remember it from the 2010s? Each week I’d do a run down of my life with most of the perfumes worn. Throughout the Christmas break I was reminded of the series and went back to see what they were like. What a fantastic memory lane, it’s like journaling but to share. So many moments came flooding back. So I’ve spent the last week, or so, getting that up and running again.

Sorry there’s nothing today. It’s all on me. Of all the ball drops this feels like a pretty minor one. No one is dead from it and in 10 years no one will remember it.

I’ll be back again next fortnight with some perfumed adventure to share.
HUG
Portia xx

Signorina by Salvatore Ferragamo
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Signorina by Salvatore Ferragamo

Hey there ULGers, Let’s go back to 2011. How is that suddenly 15 years ago?!? Salvatore Ferragamo brought out a new pillar fragrance that has now spawned many flankers but the original still remains available worldwide. At very reasonable prices in the discounters too. One of my girlfriends bought it blind last year and decided it definitely did not fit the scent profile she hoped. She passed it on and I thought we could share the joy. I remember this coming out. I loved the hefty bottle with the two tone grosgrain bow and golden ball cap. Super cool and yet also full of gravitas. A slightly clunky fit in my hand, can’t imagine how awkward for tiny hands, but it works fine for me.

Signorina by Salvatore Ferragamo 2011

Signorina Salvatore Ferragamo

Featured accords:
Top: Pink Pepper, Black Currant
Heart: Rose, Peony, Jasmine
Base: Panacotta, Musk, Patchouli

Zingy pink pepper, the scent of the early 20th century and the high pitched, sugar laden fruity screech of perfumeries dream of black currant are a sensational opening gambit. It’s bright, fun and almost sizzling. Not groundbreaking, even in 2011, but a joyous fizzy, fruity waft that smells exactly as I’d imagine a Signorina wafting out the door on the way to meet friends. We perfumistas probably eye rolled hard at how obvious it was. well, now, 15 years later it smells like a beautiful moment in time.

The bouquet in the heart is really just filler because that super sweet, lactonic musky base that smells like it tastes like a creme caramel but more robust and less slimy. The patchouli is shorn of all the earthy bits and has that very smooth 2010s quality, basically a little depth but definitely a backup player. My nose is smelling that sandalwood type creaminess that comes with vanilla.

Signorina by Salvatore Ferragamo

Signorina is definitely festive. Feminine but not SO girly that it precludes the dudes having a go. I’m thinking that it would be a seriously cool scent for a guy. Edible. Longevity and sillage are excellent. The first couple of hours I’m super fragrant and smiling at how lush I smell.

I’m not sure how much wear it will get around here but I definitely like it and will not be moving it on quite yet.

EDIT: Interestingly, I’ve left Signorina out on my desk over the last week after writing this post and it has become my first choice. It’s so easy to wear and very pretty. I’m going to wear it again this evening.

Would you wear? Did you wear, Signorina?
Portia xx

 

Obvious Un Bois and Un Musc
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Obvious Un Bois and Un Musc

Hey crew, Welcome to 2026! Maybe you heard of Obvious perfumes? They have become a mass-tige brand here in Australia and worldwide. From the gorgeous David Frossard who you may also know as the Creative Director behind some other brands like Le Liquides Imaginaires and Frapin. I had bought a few boxed travel sizes from Surrender To Chance  just in case I needed a mental health distraction over the silly season. Fortunately not warranted this year but now I’m giving them a wear.

Obvious

Obvious Un Musc

Obvious Un Bois

Bergamot, Black Pepper, Ambroxan, Cedar, Papyrus Wood, Gurjum Balm, Vetiver

Opening is fresh hewn woods, sawdust, hot metal and electrical sparks. As we head for the heart there is the memory evoking hit of pencil shavings and some oil/petrochemicals. Dry down is dark woods, old, dry and a little leathery. Sounds ghastly, doesn’t it? It’s not. Un Bois is beautiful and interesting and takes me on a journey. After the first hour or so the heft becomes a comfortable whisper. If you like the woods but are intolerant of that 21st century, lazy, scratchy, well overpowering amber woods trope then Un Bois might be a better choice for you.

Obvious Un Musc

Bergamot, Ginger, Amarys, Vetiver, Galbanum, Musks

Un Musc opens with a very softly spicy white floral. It’s got that smooth as beach glass coolness about it and reminds me of some unplaceable garden smell from my childhood. That cool floral greenery warms through in a most unusual way. It becomes fleshy and ripe but still totally vegetal. I’ve never smelt anything quite like it but it does bear an attitudinal resemblance to Mona di Orio’s Vanille. They smell nothing alike but the fragrant personality is very similar. Un Musc is sexy, and alluring in such a gentle way. Dry down is soft dewy kin but better smelling than mine. Fecund and welcoming. Un Musc is SO GOOD! You have no idea.

Obvious Un Bois and Un Musc

Obvious is not a beast mode, envelope pushing, Tik Tok influencer driven house. They are a well made, not super expensive, good smelling brand. Very wearable and probably a good starting point for anyone a bit bored by the designer output but not wanting to wear crazy, challenging, over the top juice. These are finely made fragrances with a nod to sustainability.

Obvious also has a very affordable Discovery Set. 16 x 1.5ml spray perfume samples and a €33 gift voucher valid for the purchase of a perfume 100ml. Yes, the full price comes as a gift voucher! I think that’s bloody ripper.

Have you tried any of the Obvious oeuvre?
Portia xx

Cinnabar by Estee Lauder
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Cinnabar by Estee Lauder

Hey there ULGers, Well, it’s Christmas in two sleeps. We are filling our table for Christmas Eve, as usual. Nothing over the top. Jin does his famous Roast Pork and Crackling. I do some salads and roast veggies. BFF Kath does Pavlova. Nice. Christmas morning BFF Kath, Jin and I will hit Kath’s Dad’s house. This year we are having a new idea, breakfast. Christmas Ham and Cheese toasted Croissants with some Mimosas. That’s everything we have planned. If you do the Christmas thing I hope it’s fun and drama free. If you don’t then count your lucky stars. I’m hoping this new, scaled back adventure will remain in place for the foreseeable. For the last few years I’ve forgotten to wear an old seasonal favourite, Cinnabar. This year I’m giving it the spritz. Probably for Christmas Day after breakfast and swimming.

Cinnabar by Estee Lauder

Cinnabar by Estee Lauder

Estée Lauder Australia gives these featured accords:
Top: Jasmine, Orange Flower, Tangerine
Heart: Clove, Muguet, Lily
Base: Olibanum, Sandalwood, Patchouli

As you can see below, this is my pre-refurbed bottle of Cinnabar. I can’t remember when it was bought but it’s seen next to zero use. I’m wondering if it was purchased off another perfumista and then put it in the Lauder box? Completely forgetting it. Recently I bought a new style bottle on deep discount and when putting it away rediscovered this gem. Exciting. The price tag on the back is AU$45! I just went and did the Check Fresh batch code thing and look!

Cinnabar by Estee Lauder check fresh

Woo Hoo! That is OLD! Will not lie. That is bloody brilliant. Basically a Christmas Present of a surprise.

So Cinnabar was created by Bernard Chant and Josephine Catapano and released in 1978. It definitely references YSL Opium, released in 1977 but does it in such a Bernard Chant way. So Opium but with hints of Aramis and Cabochard. Basically a spicy amber that feels VERY seasonal. It’s funny because here in Sydney it will probably be 38°C/100f. It will be a total lean into the heat.

Cinnabar by Estee Lauder

Nowadays Cinnabar feels ultimately unisex and so good I reckon it can compete with the best and most expensive spicy niche ambers available too. Longevity and diffusion are excellent, a little goes a long way and scent bombing can happen with a spritz or two too many.

Wishing you and your crew a safe, fun and drama free season. Good luck navigating the crowds and family. Be kind to yourself and don’t go anywhere toxic, just say “NO”. It’s a complete sentence and often the very healthiest choice.

HUGS
Portia xx

Winter Solstice Ritual
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Winter Solstice Ritual

Hi Crew, Here’s something fabulous you can try at home that I found on ValerieTejeda. If you love cosmic energy then you might want to jump over and have a look see.
This ritual starts December 21 and goes for 12 nights. What a wonderful way to set intentions, wishes and hopeful aspirations.

Winter Solstice Ritual

Winter Solstice Ritual

This ritual involves writing down 13 wishes, one for each night, each represents an intention or dream for the upcoming year.

For this ritual you will need:

A piece of paper or a journal, a pen, a candle, matches or a lighter, and a fireproof bowl for burning.

Step 1: Set your space

Begin by creating a peaceful space. Dim the lights, light a candle, burn some incense, play soothing music… Whatever resonates with you to create a calming and magical space for the ritual.

Step 2: Write your intentions for the year ahead

On the Solstice, take a moment to reflect on what you want to leave behind in 2025 and what you want to bring into 2026. Then, write 13 wishes (intentions, dreams, etc) for the year ahead on a piece of paper and then cut the paper so each of the wishes are on their own piece. You can store the wishes in a bowl or envelope.

Step 3: Burn one wish each night

Over the next 12 nights (the Solstice being night 1), light a candle and grab one of the pieces of paper (don’t look to see what it says) and safely burn the paper as if you are releasing the wish into the universe. Watch the flame consume it completely.

Step 4: Keep the final wish

On the 12th night, burn your 12th wish and keep the 13th. Look to see what the 13th wish is and this will be considered your biggest intention of the 13 for the year to come. Save the piece of paper to reflect on it throughout the year.

What lovely, quiet, safe way to engage with yourself and the universe.
What do you have to lose?
Portia x

Rattlesnake Musk by DSH Perfumes
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Rattlesnake Musk by DSH Perfumes

Hey Crew! Sadly, Dawn Spencer Hurwitz is now unable to send alcohol based perfume to Australia. It’s a complete bummer. The good news though is that Surrender To Chance has some of her work to sample. Currently five of them. So I did what we perfumistas do, bought myself a couple of ml to enjoy. DSH Perfumes has long been a favourite indie house for me, and I even got to meet Dawn in person at an awards night in London a few years ago. Yes, she’s exactly as bright and wondrous as expected. So here’s a little look at one of her 2022 perfume releases, Rattlesnake Musk. What a fabulous title.

From DSH Perfumes: A rocky snakeskin and animalic musk fragrance with a definite bite.  (A connoisseur’s fragrance…that’s not for the faint of heart).

Rattlesnake Musk by DSH Perfumes 2022

Rattlesnake Musk by DSH Perfumes

DSH Perfumes give these featured accords:
Africa Stone Tincture, Ambergris, Bulgarian Rose Absolute, Castoreum, Costus, East Indian Patchouli, Galbanum, Leather, Musk, Oude / Agarwood, Sandalwood, Snakeskin (Accord), Virginia Cedar

The opening is waxy and clean, brand new Tupperware. So interesting. This is the oil version. Once that plastic has burned off Rattlesnake Musk becomes a low key fragrance, smelling a lot like one of those old fur coats you find in thrift stores. It’s animalic and dusty but also has the ghosts of hundreds of perfumes. Memories of a life well lived before coming into your hands.

The heart smells/feels smooth, tight and just a little funky. If you’ve ever smelled a snakes herpetarium, then the smell will be a surprisingly good, amped up to 50 recreation. Yet, Rattlesnake Musk is also more than the bosky smell of a snakepit. This is no Demeter perfume. It’s a fine fragrance that includes woods and a bouquet. It says rose, and there is rose, but I’m smelling more than just the rose. I’m also smelling freesias and undercurrents of tomato leaves. Yeah, I know they’re not noted, maybe my nose is playing tricks.

Rattlesnake Musk by DSH Perfumes

Dry down becomes the smell of warm skin as you leave the beach. Bronzed, a little salty and full of the healthy glow of exercise and the great outdoors. Dawn has done such an amazing job of creating Rattlesnake Musk that most of the notes are completely unparseable, it becomes a beautiful, better than skin whisper lasting hours and hours.

I know my review of Rattlesnake Musk makes it sound like a weirdo but it really isn’t. Interesting, great life parabola and very different to anything else I’ve ever smelled.

Do you think it could be a winner for you?
Portia xx

Nuit de Bakelite by Naomi Goodsir
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Nuit de Bakelite by Naomi Goodsir

Hello, Hello, Hello! As you in the Northern Hemisphere enjoy the trill of cool weather and as we hit the scorching heat I thought we should look at an amazing but very queer fish. Jin and I were lucky enough to be in Esxence in 2017 when it was launched. Naomi Goodsir had taken a room in the nearby Grand Hotel and wrapped it all in a luminous almost white green. Everything. It looked like Christo and Jeanne-Claude had waded in, swathes of fabric ready to wrap. There were also strangely compelling installations of soft sculpture that I can’t really remember clearly but was open mouthed in wonder at. I had the usual five or so minutes and had not expected to be alone with Naomi and her business partner. Thinking it would be a bunch of perfumista journalists in a Q&A, and hoping to piggyback off their collective inquiries. Being face to face with the startlingly beautiful Naomi Goodsir was a terrifying treat.

This review is spurred by my popping over to the Naomi Goodsir site and all the perfumes are now unavailable to buy. Quelle Horreur! So I ran to my bottle and spritzed. I can still see them available in online stores with no disclaimer so I’m not currently freaking hardcore.

Also, this is my mate Scotty’s favourite from the line. He wears it like it was made just for him.

Nuit de Bakelite by Naomi Goodsir 2017

Nuit de Bakelite by Naomi Goodsir

 

Instead of a note list we are given some very Serge Lutens gobbledygook, with some featured accords thrown in “A green, obsessive & addictive composition supported by tuberose abs, galbanum, angélique flower, fleur d’immortelle, wooden & leather notes & styrax. A focus on the small peduncle that connects the flower to the stem, the sound of latex when several stalks of tuberose tangle, the wild majesty of the Persian tuberose. Inspiration – The premise of a narcotic lady”

Peony Melbourne gives these featured accords:
Top: Galbanum
Heart: Tuberose, Bakelite Accord
Base: Cistus Labdanum

Created by one of the main perfumers for Annick Goutal, Isabelle Doyen, and reminiscent in style to some of her more tapestried works for that brand. I feel one of her true abilities is creating fragrant chiaroscuro (brilliant light and inky darkness) that sets up a beautiful harmonious dualism. It’s alluring and just a little fractious, like a fragrant contrapuntal. I find myself searching for how she makes something feel so simple from arms length, yet incredibly multi faceted up close.

Nuit de Bakelite is no exception.

The opening is galbanum and petrol, smoke and char. Nuit de Bakelite is NOT for the faint hearted. It is the heart of a tree nymph, a moss covered Ent and a reed ringed shallow lake that is heading stagnant. Dark, dank and ridiculously gorgeous. So alluring, even though it may be to your death.

Who knows what a bakelite accord is? If it’s the burning tyre hiding behind the greenery then maybe that was the intention.

Nuit de Bakelite is laugh out loud gorgeous and repellent in equal measure. The first hour is utterly bewildering.

Nuit de Bakelite Naomi Goodsir

Once the fireworks settle I’m left with a shady riverside glen. peaceful, cool and restful. The scent of a dream of the kind of place you can watch butterflies and dragonflies flying through dappled sunlight.

Unisex. Longevity is well out of the ballpark and diffusion is huge for the first hour and then calms considerably. You’ll be fragrant, but not aggressively so, all day.

 

Do you think Nuit de Bakelite sounds wearable or too confrontational for you?
Portia xx