perfume shopping

Ombre Nomad by Louis Vuitton
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Ombre Nomad by Louis Vuitton

OK Looking Glass peeps, A mate of mine decanted this from his bottle for me. Bought it, not a gift. I remember trying Ombre Nomade in store when it was released and thinking it was very nice but wasn’t ready to lay down that kind of money to have a bottle. So I have had this 10ml a few years and every now and then I get the urge. HA! Trying to find it today was a bit of a thing. In my memory it was a gold bottle with white sticker so I overlooked this decant at least 10 times before the light dawned. Time just evaporates sometimes. My seriously scheduled day derailed. Oh Well, going with the flow.

Ombre Nomad by Louis Vuitton 2018

Ombre Nomade Louis Vuitton

 

Louis Vuitton gives these featured accords:
Oud Wood, Frankincense, Raspberry, Benzoin Tears

There has been a lot of talk in recent years about that smoky woods amber oud style base that is so prevalent in modern niche perfumery. It’s in so much and I can understand why people are bored of it or it may bring on migraines because some people just don’t have a stop spritzing button. I feel like every era of perfume has a few bases it works with. We look back at the 1970s floral chypres with such reverence but they do all smell within a certain wheelhouse. Then we had an era of spicy, amber rich florals which segued into the Big White Floral and then moved on to aquatics. See, eras of perfume are defined by certain styles. In 20 years time the kids now will be begging for confectionary gourmands, middle eastern style rose oudhs and heavily smoked woody ambers.

So here we have a smoky woods amber oud with raspberry as the defining difference. It’s fairly bombastic and smells pretty good. Actually, there are some marked similarities to Creed Carmina. While not the same they do have some crossover but Ombre Nomade is far less screechy and desperate for attention.

Ombre Nomade Louis Vuitton

I really like the way Ombre Nomade opens with darkness, a slightly medicinal woody oudh. Then it lets the raspberry sinuously slide in, snakelike and beautifully alluring. This is where the fragrance hits Carmina buttons and skews a little cough syrup, but luxuriously here and low key. Then a smoky amber woods comes through and pumps out long after I’ve lost the ability to smell it. The most common remark is that it smells like a smoky leather.

Masculine leaning unisex, extraordinary longevity and quite diffusive even when I can’t smell it anymore.

Did you ever?
Portia xx

 

Stash Unspoken by Sarah Jessica Parker
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Stash Unspoken by Sarah Jessica Parker

Hey there ULGers, I have this perfume in my collection, Stash Unspoken. It’s not niche leaning, pushes zero boundaries and does not make me swoon with rapture every time I spritz it. So you’d think I would ignore it and wear other more interesting things, right? Nope. It gets the spritz way more often than many of my super amazing, eye rollingly gorgeous, weird and wonderful bottles. I have a theory, probably we have talked about this before. Sorry if it’s old news. While the boundary pushing elixirs are fabulous, fun to write about, share with perfumista buddies and swoon over; what I really want in my day to day life is to smell good. Simple, easy to waft, pretty and friendly fragrances that don’t overtake my mind with rapture in the midst of doing my daily whatever. I also love that it was relatively inexpensive. So if I get really busy or distracted and totally ignore it then so what?

Stash Unspoken by Sarah Jessica Parker 2017

Stash Unspoken

Parfumo gives these featured accords:
Top: Quince, Pink pepper
Heart: Honeysuckle, Peony, Wisteria
Base: Musk, Sandalwood, Tonka bean, Frankincense

Quince? I dunno. Maybe if you squint your nose, from a distance, backwards with a following breeze. It’s kind of fruity, a cross between fig and citrus so it could be quince and the zingy pink pepper berry gives it a lift.

None of the amorphous bouquet heart really seem to match the notes list at all, maybe some fruity rose. Maybe honeysuckle.

The base is a pretty, nondescript waft of sweet-ish woodsy nothings that don’t really have definition as notes.

Sounds like crap? It’s not. Well, not for me anyway. Stash Unspoken is so easy going and stress free. It got a really bad rap when released because the original Stash was so damn good. After that high bar everyone was expecting more fabulosity and what we got was something tame and friendly.

Well, stuff the haters, I really love Stash Unspoken and while wearing it last week noticed how empty my bottle is. So I jumped on FragranceNet (not affiliated) and bought a new one. 50ml for under US$20.

Are you a lover, hater or meh-er on Stash Unspoken?
Portia xx

Encens Suave by Matiere Premiere
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Encens Suave by Matiere Premiere

Hey there ULGers, Encens Suave by Matiere Premiere has been sitting on my desk awaiting the Northern Hemispheres cooling. It feels like a good time to give you some good perfume news. I’m pretty sure this arrived with a Libertine Parfumerie order as a GWP. I do love a boxed manufacturers sample, so cool. This is one of my favourites from the line and I’ve given myself the odd spritz while in the big Sydney city department stores.

Encens Suave by Matiere Premiere 2019

Encens Suave Matiere Premiere

Accords include:
Top: Coffee
Heart: Incense, Madagascar Vanilla
Base: Benzoin, Labdanum

That coffee note is really rich, more like chocolate on me. Dark chocolate. It’s a very interesting opening that is soon cut through with a smoky, very Asiatic incense and warm sweet resinous amber. For all the simplicity of my words Encens Suave is very nuanced and a some beautiful trajectory.

Once it hits dry down, an hour or more in the fragrance becomes a lightly smoky amber, with some charred woods. There’s sweetness but it’s low key for me, though on other people it seems to wear sweeter. This is my favorite part of the ride and it hums away for hours and hours. We are now in very linear territory and I love to get random huffs throughout the day/evening.

Encens Suave by Matiere Premiere 2019

Unisex, very fragrant and longevity is off the charts. Encens Suave is definitely pandering to the Beast Mode Bros love of all things enormous and everlasting. The first time I wore it while out frag sniffing with a couple of mates I may have gone a bit overboard. It was HUGE and eternal.

One thing I really like is that Matiere Premiere offer 6ml, 50ml and 100ml. This is one perfume brand that I think is worth the extra $$$ and still manages to be within my boundaries. 50ml is €155 from the brand.

Have you? Would you try Encens Suave?
Portia xx

Hussar by Aquaflor Firenze
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Hussar by Aquaflor Firenze

Hiya Fellow Fulies, Hussar by Aquaflor Firenze came to my attention through my mate Clayton Illolahia. He is the genius behind now gone What Men Should Smell Like blog. We started blogging here in Sydney within two months of each other and have spent a lot of time around the perfume traps. He went on to study perfume and is now working with the Michael Edwards Fragrances of the World team. Nowadays he’s really busy travelling the world six months a year. On the occasions we get together to sniff his favorites from the latest adventures he only gives me the most standout to his unbelievably well curated bring home bottles. Seriously, he’s lucky to pick five from the hundreds he smells at each event. So that’s how impressive he found this scent and through our sniff I too fell madly and wildly in love. I think you can only buy these fragrances from the online store, shipping is VERY expensive. It might be cheaper to have a Florence vacation, worth it.

Hussar by Aquaflor Firenze

Hussar by Aquaflor Firenze

Aquaflor Firenze gives these featured accords:
Head: Citrus, Cloves
Heart: Jasmine, Leather
Base: Birch, Vetiver, Amber, Vanilla

Hussar is a Russian Leather. I learned something today. Russian Leather is named for the Russian military boots leather. How bloody interesting is that? So last fortnight I spoke of the CHANEL Cuir de Russie which alludes to the saddles and in particular the soap the Russians (and now the world) used to keep them supple and make them last decades. Quite different takes on the Russian Leather experience, very cool.

The opening is sharp, clove heavy and vanilla prominent. From the outset Hussar is more forthright and has much greater sillage than CdR. Also, it feels less refined and exclusive. Rugged but not rough. Think of Twilight’s Edward and Jacob. Hussar is definitely the Jacob.

Hussar by Aquaflor Firenze

It’s not long till the dark, smoky leather pushes forward and becomes the star player. Somewhere in the heart we get this unbelievably glorious lipstick type orris, it’s a welcome surprise and adds layers to the fragrance ride. Spicy vanilla rich amber and smoky leather with a very slight soapy texture takes us to dry down which pumps out for hours before fade.

So good. Also, this does not feel like a winter leather. It’s more a shoulder season and I think it might sing beautifully in the heat.

Do you have a favourite leather?
Portia xx

Coromandel and Cuir de Russie extraits by CHANEL
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Coromandel and Cuir de Russie extraits by CHANEL

Hi there ULGers, With the unsubstantiated but persistent rumors of the exclusif extraits being DCd I’ve started to panic. Late last week I popped into my nearest CHANEL Beauty store and got a porcelain each of Coromandel and Cuir de Russie. At the time I also swiped them. One on each forearm. Can we talk about a blissful afternoon and evening of greedily huffing at both arms…

Yes I am aware of how spendy they are and also aware that I’ll probably never have courage to open them. Already I have unopened 1932, Gardenia, Jersey and No 22 extraits. You’re right, I never smell them because of it BUT the joy I get from taking out those boxes and dreaming about wearing them is very satisfying. Honestly, my need to open another bottle of perfume is not so strong, especially as some of my REALLY important loves are just evaporating away and getting just a couple of wears a year. Some of my older Guerlain bottles like Vega, Moscou and Cuir Beluga are definitely wasting away.

Coromandel and Cuir de Russie extraits by CHANEL

Coromandel and Cuir de Russie extraits by CHANEL

If you want to see note lists etc here is the link to CHANEL USA. The extraits are 15ml and currently US$305, so $20/ml. It’s expensive but not so outrageously so compared to a lot of the schlock that’s being hustled for much more.

Coromandel

Patchouli, thick and rich and sparkling golden like it’s been scrubbed of everything earthy and 1970s. It’s still patchouli but this is classy stuff. There are other bit players that help create the whole but what really matters is the amber that has been cooled and aerated by orris. So what I smell is patchouli/orris/amber that misses a lot of the vanillic sweetness and holds just a tiny little bit feral, like microscopic underpinnings. What happens is it makes this whole, utterly perfect scent that has been blended into submission just a fraction rebellious. It’s so clever and beautiful. That single swipe in the early afternoon was still pumping soft wisps at lunch next day before I showered.

Cuir de Russie

So while I was very horsey in my youth and rode, mucked out, collected horse apples and groomed them for years. My parents sent me to riding classes every weekend and made the farm owners send me to help do all the dirty work so I’d stop wanting a horse of my own. They needn’t have worried. Once I changed schools my Saturdays were for sport.
Anyway, Cuir de Russie is funny. It smells like a brand new pair of patent leather shoes AND it smells like a tack room. It is this super weird blend of two worlds and it lures me in every time. Obviously if you love Beast Mode leathers then this safe as houses baby will bore you to tears. Here’s the thing though, sometimes I want to smell understated but still fragrant enough that I remember my perfumista-hood. Leather and lightly tropical white flowers, kind of aftershave-y. NO, that’s not right, kind of SHAVE CREAMY but subtle, low key and beautiful. The vanilla and rose don’t play big parts for me but right down the dying breaths I can tell they have been playing all along.

While I’m not currently in a position to buy these, in the near future more discretionary funds will be available and I’m hoping CHANEL holds off long enough for me to get there and at least get Coromandel and Cuir de Russie. Oh, and Bois des Iles.

So which CHANEL extrait would you throw money on the counter for?
Portia xx

 

Arancia Di Capri by Acqua di Parma: Blu Mediterraneo Series
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Arancia Di Capri by Acqua di Parma: Blu Mediterraneo Series

Hey there ULGers, You are ensconced in your mid-summer heatwaves so I went looking through my samples for something suitable. Maybe, I thought, we could sniff something you may have forgotten. Then my eyes spied the glorious blue of Acqua di Parma Arancia Di Capri. The fragrance is turning 25 this year, that’s a really good run. Must be something wonderful in the bottle?

My sample came with an order from First in Fragrance a couple of years ago. I remember spritzing, liking enough to keep the sample and then it languished in a box.

Arancia Di Capri by Acqua di Parma: Blu Mediterraneo Series 1999

Arancia Di Capri by Acqua di Parma: Blu Mediterraneo Series 1999

Acqua Di Parma gives the gfeatured accords:
Top: Italian Sweet Orange, Italian Mandarin, Italian Lemon
Heart: Petit Grain, Cardamom
Base: Caramel, Musk

Bittersweet citrus and smooth greenery open up Arancia Di Capri. It’s a beautifully worked reissue of the old trope. Very cologne-ish and refreshing. There is an added extra of cool earthiness like walking through dappled shade in lightly wooded, well mulched parklands. This opening lasts much longer than expected and I really get to enjoy it before we move on.

As we enter the heart the citrus becomes more pithy and there is some warmth to the greenery, sawdusty woods. I keep thinking what a beautiful everyday spritz Arancia Di Capri would make. It’s fairly simple but lovely enough that a perfumista could easily wear it daily. What I really think it would be excellent for is both the younger and much older ends of the perfume wearing spectrum. Excellent gateway to more refined fragrance and also a good go-to for someone who wants to smell good but really doesn’t care about perfumes like we do.

When they noted caramel I was expecting it to have a really gourmand base but it’s not like that at all. More of a low key amber that rides underneath a vegetal musk. The citrus pith never truly leaves and longevity for this cologne style EdT is excellent.

Arancia Di Capri by Acqua di Parma: Blu Mediterraneo Series 1999 30ml

Another thing I love about many of the Acqua Di Parma range is that they come in five sizes. Choose from the very elegant 30ml travel pictured above to an enormous 180ml behemoth. There is also a beauty/bath range and ambient fragrance choices. You and your home can be top to bottom Arancia Di Capri. If I was a one scent kinda person this would be very alluring.

Sound good?
Portia xx

 

Eau des Merveilles Bleue by Hermès
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Eau des Merveilles Bleue by Hermès

Hi Crew, The rumor mill has Christine Nagal finishing up at Hermès so I thought it might be nice to look at one of my favorites from her tenure. Though I didn’t LOVE everything she created there were quite a few that I did. The Vetiver Terre d’Hermès, Eau de Citron Noire, Un Jardin Sur La Lagune and à Cythère all have made full bottles bought at retail in my collection. Violette Volinka and H24 EdP are both on the list. I think that’s about half of her output? Pretty good strike rate if you ask me. Yes, I know. You didn’t. HA! So let’s talk about the one that sees the most wear around here, Eau des Merveilles Bleue. A perfect summer spritz for you all in the northern hemisphere right now.

Eau des Merveilles Bleue by Hermès 2016

Featured accords:
Sea salt, woody notes, juniper berry, patchouli

Yeah, I know a lot of the perfumista community sneers at a salty aquatic but it’s probably time to get your nose on a good one again. It may just sway your thinking. Especially as it’s summer up in the northern hemisphere and anything refreshing should be embraced wholeheartedly. Another win here is the fabulous bottle, so gorgeous in my hand. Plus it comes in a few sizes from the 15ml travel up to the 100ml.

Straight out of the gate Eau des Merveilles Bleue smells of salty juniper berries. They are piquant and green but awash with cold sea water. There are also wafts of cutting green chilis and some herbaceous greenery a little like pine needles and basil. We are taught this is a masculine configuration. In reality I can definitely imagine it smelling killer on even the most feminine of women. It would definitely be unexpected.

Through the heart and base of Eau des Merveilles Bleue have a much more seaside vibe. A little bit of seaweed, some driftwood, walking through the soft sand to sit under an enormous beach umbrella and order some margaritas. The salt dries on your body, you’re relaxed, maybe there’s a breeze and you can watch the beach and bar go by happily for a couple of hours. Some desultory conversation and a really good book.

Eau des Merveilles Bleue by Hermès

The patchouli is shorn of all things natural and comes across sheer and modern. It hardly resembles the patchouli of the head shop, chocolate or earthy varieties we wore in time gone by. As Eau des Merveilles Bleue heads towards full dry down I smell like me coming home after swimming in the ocean.

Are you game to try some aquatic fragrances this summer?
Portia xx

 

 

 

Saturday Question: What Three Would You Bring Back
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Saturday Question: What Three Would You Bring Back

Hello Fellow Fumies,

At ULG we have a Saturday Question. Everyone gets to chime in with an answer, chat with other responders and it’s a fun event each week. Taking sides never means taking offence and everyone keeps it respectful and light, even though we can sometimes trawl the depths.

The idea is you’ll see it on the weekend or chime in through the week. Hopefully you will come back regularly and see if anyone has responded to your comment and you can reply to them. The aim is to generate real conversation and connection even though we are scattered around the globe.

Saturday Question: What Three Would You Bring Back?

So many fragrances have been Discontinued, Changed or Reformulated over time that it’s hard to wrap your head around it. Anyone buying Opium, Magie Noire, Diva or Miss Dior in 2024 will be gobsmacked by how different they smell to the originals. Even some less vintage fragrance lines like CHANEL exclusives, Maison Christian Dior Collection, Serge Lutens or the Malle line have been hacked into and given refreshes. We await changes on other brands bought out by big fragrance. Then there are the slew of fragrances that have gone from the counters forever, impossible to find for less than a small countries annual GDP and then you better hope it’s not a fake or refilled.

So what are the three you REALLY wish you could have 200ml of in pristine condition? Imagine there was a perfume fairy that could grant these wishes. No question of expense or postage, snap and the three bottles appear.

My Answer:

Guerlain Paris-Moscou

This is an old photo of my bottle which only has maybe 3ml left in the bottom. I really don’t know why this overly sweet, sticky, glug of a perfume captured me so completely and utterly. Plum cheesecake? Is there such a thing. Screamingly sweet. Still, whenever I spritz the smile goes from ear to ear and I huff deeply for about 5 hours. Loving every minute. Sadly these travel perfumes were not popular and went the way of the dodo in what felt like minutes.

Niki de Saint Phalle

While I love many of the mossy floral chypres, Niki de saint Phalle is the one that speaks loudest to me. I’m pretty sure that at least some of the reason is Niki’s story, art and sheer brazen ability to make her way in such a mans world. Fortunately I was aware they were coming to the end of the road when the discounters were practically giving bottles away and I bought a drawer full. Even if I wore Niki de Saint Phalle exclusively my stash might last 10 years.

Versace Blonde EdT & extrait

Don’t worry. I also have a stash of this magnificent tuberose/jasmine/ylang sillage monster. What makes me sad is something so fabulous and glamorous, created the year before Versace Dreamer (another favourite), heralded the pinnacle of Versace fragrances. It was the diamond that came before they seemed to give up on making fine fragrance. Yes, they still make fragrance and they are not terrible but they also miss the interest, aspirational creativity and magic of the Versace mid 1990s releases.

 

My Saturday Question to you is:

What Three Would You Bring Back?

Assam of India by Parfums Berdoues
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Assam of India by Parfums Berdoues

Hey Hey ULGers! Lovely to have you in the blog-house. Over the years Robin and the NST crew have talked lovingly of Assam of India. I tried it early on and loved it but then completely forgot it even existed till a couple of years ago when it came up again on a few Friday Community Projects over there. Having spent every cent on travel last year and other expenses this year it’s been a financially enforced low buy 18 months. Seeing the light at the end of the tunnel meant I gave myself permission to grab a couple of things. Jin’s signature perfume Bottega Veneta EdP has been DCd, so I grabbed him a backup or two from FragranceNet (not affiliated). While there I noticed Assam of India Testers were cheap, so it went in the cart. YAY! Now it has arrived and I’m thinking you all up in the warming Northern Hemisphere will go ape shit for its super summer wearability.

Assam of India by Parfums Berdoues 2015

Assam of India by Parfums Berdoues

Parfums Berdous give these featured accords:
Menton lemon, Indian tea, Mysore sandalwood

Do you ever wish for a crisp, beautiful, no nonsense but lovely to smell tea forward fragrance that will suit any mood in the warmer months and many in the cooler? Does the bottle make a difference? Is super cuteness without being childish a win? Then we might just have the perfect scent for you here today.

Immediately a sweet citrus, much sweeter and softer than lemon to my nose. Veery pomelo. Soon after there is a hint of those little square travel mints and then, interestingly it turns less sweet and gets the tart edge I expect from lemon.

You’d expect the tea to be very Earl Grey with such a burst of citrus. It’s not. While I do get the dry back of throat feeling that tea in perfume often gives me it’s not black tea. More of a green tea herbal concoction and I get very specific chamomile and dandelion references. Also lovely hints of basil and later a bitter green angelica. The sandalwood never really makes much of an appearance and Assam of India stays fairly green tea and herbs.

Yes, I’m sure you all get entirely different rides but these are consistent olfactory markers for me through a few wears. Funny how it happens.

Assam of India by Parfums Berdoues short shot

Utterly unisex. Lasts surprisingly well before becoming a wash of green nothings. Not a huge perfume but definitely changes the air around you. Like a bit of a creeper that someone will notice after minutes sitting right next to you, then they’ll say something. I do get why it’s so popular and think it would make a terrific gift to non perfumistas who are after something more interesting than most department store fare.

Are any of you fans of Assam of India?
Portia xx

 

From the Garden by Maison Martin Margiela 2023
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From the Garden by Maison Martin Margiela 2023

Hi there ULGers, Maison Margiela is one of those fragrance houses that has kind of passed me by. There’s always a LOT of chatter about them on the boards, I’ve smelt a few of them, sometimes when I ask in the wild a very excited perfumista will tell me all about the provenance of their scent and Maison Martin Margiela’s Replica Collection. Basically an up market, niche version of the Demeter range with MUCH better longevity and interesting twists. It surprised me when looking up the brand that they’ve been around since 2010. So, while trawling Surrender To Chance NEW section not so long ago I noted that they had a brand new scent, being sold as a chypre and with such an alluring title as From The Garden. It was in the cart before I could even think it through.

From the Garden by Maison Martin Margiela

From the Garden by Maison Martin Margiela

Maison Margiela site gives these featured accords:
Top: Green Mandarin Essence – Grapefruit Essence – Blackcurrant Accord
Heart: Tomato Leaf Accord – Geranium Bourbon Heart Madagascar – Rose Accord
Base: Patchouli Indonesia – Cristal Moss – White Musks

Well they’re not lying about the fruity top. It’s got that unmistakeable perfume version of blackcurrant and a bright, screechy grapefruit that is both super sweet and tart AF. It’s a surprisingly gorgeous opening and I wish it lasted in that mode longer than the minute before tomato leaf makes a bold entrance, pushing all other notes into the background.  There they become a really good pillow to rest the tomato leaf on.

From the Garden by Maison Martin Margiela 2023

About an hour in the tomato leaf has decreased its power and is starting to let the geranium and patchouli add their respective charms.Loving the sharp geranium leaf that is almost photo realistic of rubbing a leaf between your fingers and then smelling the feisty waft. I’m sure the rose is mixed up in there but it’s not making a statement.

From the Garden by Maison Martin Margiela 2023

The dry down is a very calm dank earthy patchouli. Cristal moss is a synthetic moss recreation note and it does a very nice job here of adding a little furry greenery to the patchouli. It’s probably just me but in the base I smell basil leaves, just crushed for making pesto. It adds another dimension as we head towards fade.

From the Garden is a beautiful green chypre. A little darker than the 1970s version and though I hate to say it, more interesting. Maybe it’s the newness of the mixture and the front and centre of tomato leaf. Projection and longevity are moderate but the village is excellent. It really does change the air as you walk past.

Sound good?
Portia xx