perfume shopping

Hydra Figue by Miller Harris
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Hydra Figue by Miller Harris

Hey there ULGers, Back in 2023 my mate Cinnamon from Perfume Posse talked about some new Miller Harris. I’m not sure when or where I got a boxed manufacturers spray sample of Hydra Figue. Maybe it came as a GWP? While going through stuff cleaning up my mess in the perfume room it turned up. YAY!

This from the company: “The scent of the artist’s idyll. Journey, to a Greek Bohemian paradise. A complex woody, citrus and marine fragrance combining the fruit of the fig with sea salt, Greek saffron and upcycled oakwood.”

Hydra Figue by Miller Harris 2023

Hydra Figue by Miller Harris

Miller Harris gives these featured accords:
Top: Bergamot, Saffron Greece, Cardamom, Ginger, Lemon, Ouzo Accord
Heart: Fig, Tuberose, Sea Salt, Sage, Marine Accord, Mirabilis Jalapa
Base: OakWood, Sandalwood, Ambroxan, Velvet Musk

Citrus zest, fig and zingy ginger all lightly salted. So good! A bright burst of glorious sunshine.

Hydra Figue’s heart stays salty fig and becomes enmeshed in a dark, slightly toxic greenery. Stunning, and so far removed from what I expect from the usually safe Miller Harris house. Reminiscent of Mugler Womanity but much less antagonistic. Darker, more interesting and the kind of perfume I could easily imagine the evil witch wearing in Snow White.

The heart lives for hours and gets darker and woodsier. As we head towards dry down there is a definite twist of sweaty humanity underscoring the beautiful woodsy/figgy depths.

How can Hydra Figue not have become a full on stellar fan favourite?

It’s unisex, full on, interesting and has a fabulous life story. I can seriously imagine the beast mode bros falling over themselves to smell this fabulous.

Hydra Figue by Miller Harris

HA! This is so good I just looked it up and bought a bottle.

Probably not for everyone but I’ll be glad to have it.

Salt seems to be having a few years of reprise. I’m so happy for it.
What about you? Does Hydra Figue sound wearable?
Portia xx

Patchouli Paris by Guerlain
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Patchouli Paris by Guerlain

Hi there Looking Glassers, I’m clearly a Guerlain fan, it’s been a brand in my life since childhood. Also, I understand that perfume pricing has gone out of control. What was a fun hobby that could be played with spare change, it has now become a major investment. That’s taken quite a lot of the fun out of being a perfumista for me. Now, when I try a stratospherically priced new perfume it has to be unbelievably special. Tick all the boxes, surprise, delight, ring my bell and make me swoon: at the very least. Especially when some of the Indie Perfume Houses are making spectacular, envelope pushing beauties for less than a quarter the price. So, to be fair, I’m coming to Patchouli Paris with a fairly jaded mindset, eyerolling at the price and grumpy at LVMH. I got my decant at Surrender To Chance.

Patchouli Paris by Guerlain 2024

Patchouli Paris by Guerlain

I found these featured accords:
Top: Aldehydes
Heart: Iris
Base: Patchouli, Ambergris

Opening is a lightly sweet, smoky aldehydic zing that smells very CHANEL and it has a real early 200os radiant white floral effect. This could be a new Les Exclusive. Smooth and lovely, the iris feels so clean, a little bit soapy. Dry down is a very soft focus clean patchouli with only the merest whispered hint of briny whale poop.

Everyone that has talked to me about Patchouli Paris has told me it’s a barnstormer but I find it incredibly polite. An under the radar fragrance that feels totally introverted. If that’s your style then Patchouli Paris will be catnip. A perfect low humming pale wash that elevates your own scent without drawing attention, or histrionics.

Obviously, your mileage may vary. I sincerely hope it does and that it’s just on me that Patchouli Paris lays like a limp lettuce leaf: insipid, uninspiring and sadly undelightful.

Patchouli Paris by Guerlain STC

Longevity and sillage are moderate. Nice on everyone, across gender borders.

SOOO NICE that I can see this becoming a go-to patchouli for those that don’t really love patchouli but do love the very glamorous facets of iris, with a touch of leathery goodness. There is none of the bread dough, carrot or woody dankness that can so often accompany the noble iris rhizome.

It’s like Guerlain has become afraid of making a real statement and has decided to mumble.

What did you think?
Portia xx

Fortnight Perfume Wears
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Fortnight Perfume Wears

Hi Crew, It’s my Tuesday fortnight already and I’ve completely dropped the ball. There are three half finished posts awaiting attention in my Drafts Folder but I’m still trying to get a bead on the fragrances. So here is a picture of most of the perfumes I wore in the last two weeks.

Fortnight Perfume Wears

Are any of these loves, likes or loathes of yours? Do the houses speak to you? Do you wish you’d grabbed any of the now DCd beauties?

Also I did the Boy George look again this week. LOVED my make up this night so thought I’d take a pic. I was wearing Hermès Eau de Citron Noir. It’s mid winter here so this outfit is one of my warmest and it gets a lot of winter wear.

Also, here’s a quick hello from the dogs who now own this apartment and have all the best spots. They’re both in their 10th year, getting old, stinky and rickety. What was once not allowed is now permissible. We will be lucky to have them another 12 months. What are rules in the faces of these beautiful hounds?

The white spot girl is Momo, Jin’s baby, who has decided MY BED is the comfiest spot in the house. She only came to us last year. Her Dad went into care and no-one would take her. Jin saw her on our local greyhound FaceBook page and they were worried that she’d have to go to a pound where old dogs are usually euthenised on arrival. We got her that weekend.

This used-to-be black guy is Paris, my true love, who has taken the prime spot on the couch. You’d think he is watching the TV with us. Paris came from a trainer mate of mine with another Greyhound Jinx (Jin’s) who got cancer. Jin was heartbroken.

So what have you all been wearing? Clothes or fragrance. How are your pets doing?
Portia xx

Lady Day by Maria Candida Gentile
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Lady Day by Maria Candida Gentile

Hi there ULGers, Lady Day by Maria Candida Gentile was a gift from my perfume buddy Scotty. He was complaining about how polite and pretty it is and felt that he’d never wear it. I offered to give it some wear and see if it was more me. Yes, selfless, caring individual that I am. HA! also greedy bitch who wants to have ALL the perfume.

Lady Day by Maria Candida Gentile 2012

Maria Candida Gentile site gives these featured accords:
Top: Galbanum
Heart: Gardenia
Base: Balsam

I wore Lady Day the next day after my acquisition. Considering how short the advertised note list is I was surprised by the depth and texture of the fragrance. There was something very repellant in the first wear, an unease that felt like malaise or the slip from sadness to melancholy. Normally I’d be glad and give the perfume back but Lady Day isa so strange. I wanted to smell that feeling again. Did it REALLY smell like that or was it projecting my own preconceived ideas of the Billy Holiday story.

The opening is green, smoky and sweet. The green is smooth like beach glass and super cool like frost. It has a smoky texture that also smells like the feel of old burned wood ash in a BarBQ. So silky but with the acrid scent of char. The sweetness is uncomfortable, a bit ripe sweat and whispers of confectionary like those strawberry and cream lollies we had as kids. Yes, I told you. Strange and unsettling but Oh SO More-ish.

Lady Day Maria Candida Gentile

The heart of Lady day feels more floral but not gardenia. It smells like a bunch of wildflowers picked while out walking and dandelions. It’s so pretty and calming. A bit like your first sip of chamomile tea, that fresh but green/tart warmth. Poor description, I know.

Dry down smells to me like smooth greenery and some vanilla rich amber. It’s very calm and serene at this point.

Longevity is better than moderate and though not a powerhouse Lady Day does give a soft wave of sillage after the first 30 minutes that lasts a few hours before becoming very close to your body.

Strange but alluring, like much of Billy Holiday’s music. I will not be returning this bottle, I’m captivated.
Did you ever try Lady Day? or have a favourite Maria Candida gentile?
Portia xx

Escapade a Byzance by Olibere
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Escapade a Byzance by Olibere

Hi there ULGers, A perfume crew that is rarely cited on the scentbloggosphere is Olibere. I’m not sure why. Here are my thoughts. They’re not a huge conglomerate with millions to spend on hype, they don’t use influencers, they’re a bit too good for the modern perfume bro but not classic or strange enough for the super perfumista crowd. I’ve got a couple of faves from them but today I thought we could talk about Escapade a Byzance.  Mainly because this year it turns 10 years old ! That’s a big deal in modern perfume years. Especially from a fairly under the radar house. I’ve had a 20ml travel of it for a while and it gets enough wear that it’s nearly half gone.

From Olibere: “A gourmand, warm, spicy and carnal fragrance, which will take you to the heart of a Moroccan souk. Perfume inspired by the film « The sheltering sky », shot in Morocco.”

I’m also loving that the brand’s blurb and my recent Morocco holiday are so well aligned.

Escapade a Byzance by Olibere 2015

Escapade a Byzance by Olibere

Olibere gives these featured accords:
Top: Black Pepper, Cinnamon, Saffron, Ginger, Cumin, Citrus
Heart: Cypress, Carnation, Incense
Base: Vanilla, Benzoin, Musk, Amber, Patchouli, Vetiver, Atlas Cedar

Opening is a warm vanilla rich amber that is given some extra spicy bells and whistles and interestingly the ginger gives it a very sharp green spiced effect, like biting into really expensive bitter dark chocolate ginger. It’s such an attention grabbing first few minutes.

Once we head to the heart Escapade a Byzance becomes a fragrance wholly blended to become itself, rather than outstanding notes. It’s a surprisingly dusty melange of spices, flowers, woods and a smoky overlay on a base of patchouli/amber. Today I’m wearing it in 27C/80f and it is blooming beautifully. I love that the bells and whistles last longer than just the opening and head with us into dry down.

Escapade a Byzance by Olibere

Dry down becomes more about the patchouli and a raunchy musk. The amber, spice and smoke are much more noticeable as the heft of Escapade a Byzance lowers. Maybe two hours in and the fireworks have calmed. I’m still fragrant 7 hours later but at a much lower projection. Now I need to move a bit to get a proper huff out of my top.

Unisex but leaning traditional and with excellent longevity. Does Escapade a Byzance remind me of being in a Moroccan souk? Yes and no. This is a fantasized glamorous rendering that amps up all the good bits and leaves out most of the cooking and less attractive parts. So a beautiful, technicolor dream of a Moroccan souk.

Do you know the Olibere Parfums brand?
Portia xx

 

Grenadille d’Afrique by Aedes de Venustas
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Grenadille d’Afrique by Aedes de Venustas

Hi there ULGers, Another find in the Decant Demolition 2025 oeuvre Grenadille d’Afrique by Alberto Morillas is one of the much lesser known Aedes de Venustas fragrances. It was released in 2016 and had a flurry of scentbloggosphere reviews and then radio silence. So it’s quite nice to refind it, even though about 70% has evaporated and it’s definitely had oxygenation. I’m seriously loving this extrait version though and you can still find it available at Aedes and other major niche retailers.

Grenadille d’Afrique by Aedes de Venustas

Grenadille d'Afrique Aedes de Venustas

Parfumo gives these featured accords:
Bergamot, Lavender, Violet, Juniper, Vetiver, Labdanum, African blackwood, Vanilla, Musk

Lavender, Juniper and dry grass vetiver all jump out immediately when I spritz Grenadille d’Afrique. This is a calm and classy fragrance with no screech or overwhelming fireworks at opening. A smooth, clear, cool and unusual opening. Like walking into a very expensive wooden hotel in the mountains that has a spa on site and forests outside. I can smell the beeswax and resins used to keep the wood pristine.

Grenadille d’Afrique or Grenadilla of Africa, means African Blackwood. A small tree from the driest parts of Africa, Senegal and Eritrea to South Africa that is threatened with extinction from overharvesting. The wood is used in musical instruments and furniture.

Once we reach the heart a spicy, charred wood emerges. It’s dark and meditative. Deep. Slowly it sweetens as the vanilla and labdanum come through. Not amber or candy sweet, just a lift. A smoothing off and rounding of the ingredients. Now Grenadille d’Afrique starts to smell very expensive.

Dry down is very nice too. An amorphous vanilla/woodsy fade to nothing

Did you try, or buy, Grenadille d’Afrique? Might you?
Portia xx

No. 09 L’Eau Blanche by IUNX
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No. 09 L’Eau Blanche by IUNX

Hiya ULGers. Yes, here’s another decant found in my Decant Demolition 2025 adventure over on Perfume Posse. I’m one of the few who ever had a good experience with the staff at the Paris IUNX store. Obviously the grumpy old guy was a steaming turd but Anna Maria and I happened across a delightful girl one day that had come to Australia and knew her family through a job she had in Oz. It was utterly surreal. If you remember the stupid bottles their fragrances were housed in? Totally unacceptable, top heavy towers that fell over and smashed if you looked at them. Idiocy. So I only bought the travel size and only Splash Forte. Then they closed their doors for the second or third time and died. Once when we were in the shop with old grumpy guts salesman and the gorgeous Denyse Beaulieu two women of some Asian heritage came in and bought complete sets each of the big unsteady bottles. It was so cool and a LOT of $$$. We were gobsmacked. Anyway, on to L’Eau Blanche. My decant is from a Surrender To Chance sale a few years ago and has probably evaporated 60% so I’m writing about an oxidized extrait version.

No. 09 L’Eau Blanche by IUNX

These were the featured notes:
White Iris, Floral Notes, Teak Wood

Olivia Giacobetti is a famous nose. She created such fabulous firsts as Premier Figuier and Tea for Two at L’Artisan, Costes Hotel fragrances, Malle En Passant and Hermès Hiris and many more. Her IUNX range was very low key but beautifully subtle, I called them introverted perfumes and stand by it. Funny thing though, the hard core perfumistas went ape shit for them. While I was still pushing the envelope with intensity and weirdness the cool crew were eating this up. I think it’s how I came to them.

Soft iris but not a heavily woody or bready open, much more like scrunching up crabapple and stock petals, maybe even a couple of roses. It’s powdery like running a petal across your cheek but also a little vegetal and sappy sharp, like broken hyacinth stems. There is a feeling of the modern designer peony fragrance but done for a much more discerning client. Imagine a stark rendering of CHANEL No 18.

No. 09 L’Eau Blanche by IUNX

This oxidized extrait version of L’Eau Blanche is wearing so close to my skin but when I move it scents the air magnificently for the briefest moment and then fades to memory until I move again. Heavenly. You’ll note I’ve been wearing it almost to the dregs and LOVING IT!

Did you ever get your sniff on L’Eau Blanche?
Portia xx

 

Gentry Jockey Club Oriza L. Legrand
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Gentry Jockey Club Oriza L. Legrand

Heya Crew. Since their resurrection I’ve loved and followed the continuing brilliance of the Oriza L. Legrand house. It’s a house that has its fair share of devotees but if the style doesn’t work for you then maybe only three or four of their oeuvre will smell good to and on you. Luckily I love powdery, billowing, over the top glamstrosities that wear divinely on men and women alike. Actually wearing a big fluffy powder bomb feels unbelievably subversive as I wander the shops and mall here in Parramatta, or even in Sydney CBD. I feel like we perfumed gents are living in a golden age where not only the gays but the whole bro-niverse is smelling fine. So my wafts are not out of place, just regular Joe. Gentry Jockey Club is one fragrance that might fit for you if the Oriza main body of work isn’t your style.

Gentry Jockey Club by Oriza L. Legrand 2017

Gentry Jockey Club Oriza L. Legrand

Oriza L Legrand gives these featured accords:
Top: Ylang, Saffron
Heart: Iris Pallida, Leathery notes, Birch essence
Base: Sandalwood, Tonka Bean, Vetiver.

That beautiful, creamy ylang, sandalwood and dry cardboard/lipstick iris are totally contrasted by the scratchy saffron and birch. While Gentry Jockey Club is a leather fragrance it is also so much more. PLUS there’s nary a hint of powder anywhere near this perfume.

Things I’m surprised are not in the note list, plum, raspberry or some dark sweet fruit and resins like myrrh, labdanum or even elemi. The notes do not seem to cover the wealth of breadth Gentry Jockey Club displays. It’s in the same wheelhouse as Daim Blond or Bottega Veneta EdP but does it so differently. Dryer, less fashion and more… it’s not like working leather, or even boots. I’m really finding it difficult to pigeon hole. Yes leather, yes some fruit, some smoky resin, plush and creamy ylang and sandalwood but with zero Samsara feel. Through the heart and into the base I get a drying hay waft and some engine oil.

Gentry Jockey Club by Oriza L. Legrand

If Bandit was created in the 21st century then I think this is how it would smell. Two enthusiastic thumbs up. Unisex leaning towards traditional masculine with moderate projection and awesome longevity. If you want to smell good all day without the need for touch ups. Different from the crowd but well under the weird factor. If your job is based on solid structure but you need to be (or smell like) an effective think outside the box-er but not a maverick then I’m thinking Gentry Jockey Club might be perfect fit. It’s also bloody sexy on Jin.

Sadly I have no memory of where this decant came from. There’s maybe 4 of 10ml left and I’m enjoying it immensely.

Are you a leather or Oriza Legrand fan? Favourites?
Portia xx

Ambre Mythique by Maitre Parfumeur et Gantier
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Ambre Mythique by Maitre Parfumeur et Gantier

Hi there Looking Glassers, While you’re still stuck in cool weather but heading into warmer I thought we could look at one more gorgeous amber. Just for the love of it. Most of you would have heard of Maitre Parfumeur et Gantier ‘… founded in 1988 by the renowned perfumer Jean-François Laporte. Rooted in the tradition of 17th-century French perfumery, the brand draws its inspiration from travel, the world of opera, and baroque aesthetics.’ You’ll know Jean Laport from creating l’Artisan Parfumeur in 1976. He is quite the innovator and even when he is working within a trope he does it so flawlessly it’s like the idea has been perfected. Sadly the house has been lost in all the noise of new.

Ambre Mythique by Maitre Parfumeur et Gantier 2016

Ambre Mythique by Maitre Parfumeur et Gantier

Maitre Parfumeur et Gantier gives these featured accords:
Top: Bergamot, Geranium, Coriander, Incense
Heart: Myrrh, Lavender, Ciste labdanum
Base: Patchouli, Vanilla, Sandalwood, Tonka Beans

For many of the readers here a new amber perfume is the last thing on their list of needs. Yes, I’m much the same. Amber is one of my great perfume loves and the wardrobe is bristling with them. Last winter less than half of them even got worn. Yet, had I been in a shop with funds for spending I’d own the 120ml bottle already.

Opening with a deep patchouli/labdanum/incense smokiness, Ambre Mythique is furry and goat-ish but also has a whisper of crisp rose and greenery. A seriously warming fragrance that is leaning heavily into the heat here in the dying gasps of Sydney summer. Fire, smoke, woods and that beautiful animalic resinous sweetness of amber. So rich and burnished.

Very diffusive but not a screaming beast, longevity is off the charts. Spritz at 6am and you’ll still smell the rich remnants at midnight. GAH! I really want a full bottle of Ambre Mythique right now.

Ambre Mythique by Maitre Parfumeur et Gantier

You can see I just shook the decant in the photo before spritzing because some of the ingredients had sedimented over time. There’s only about 2ml left and it is a glorious amber colour.

LuckyScent still has bottles and samples

Are you a too many ambers person or is there room for one more?
Portia xx

Bois Sikar by Atelier des Ors
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Bois Sikar by Atelier des Ors

Heya Crew! Do you have brands that you sincerely love yet you have never bought a full bottle? This is my story with Atelier des Ors. Way back when I went to Esxence Megan even offered me a bottle of their newest release but I knew my bag was right at the limit so asked for a couple of sets of samples, one for me and one for a giveaway. Kicking myself ever since. Their bottles are so beautiful, I love the gold flakes and the fragrances are all so thoughtfully produced. Dozens of times I’ve had them in my basket but they just never seem to make it all the way through checkout. So I’m currently retrying a few to decide which one I’ll buy to congratulate myself on finishing my Celebrant Course (when I finally do!).

Bois Sikar by Atelier des Ors 2018

Bois Sikar by Atelier des Ors

Atelier des Ors gives these featured accords:
Top: Nutmeg, Precious Wood, Guaiac Wood
Heart: Vetiver, Styrax, Cedar Leef
Base: Tobacco Absolute, Cyrpiol, Incense

It’s easy to know why Bois Sikar is near the top of my to try list. Tobacco/wood/incense are all in my wheelhouse, add some spices and resins and I’m right there, front and center. of course, Atelier des Ors does it in their own way so let’s chat about it.

Dark, charred, smoky woods open Bois Sikar. There is also the smell of greenery torn and trodden. Like the cold dawn on a campsite with only coals left in the fire pit and the smell of dew drying on the trees. Add the scent of kicked up leaf mulch and someone not very far away cooking super crispy bacon.

As we head towards the heart resinous tobacco becomes noticeable and Bois Sikar becomes a warm fragrance. Lightly spiced and cozy with the smoke of burning incense wafting through. Some of you may remember the spicy woods of the 1980s mens fragrances? Imagine that genre but elevated by interesting, modern style. It’s almost oudh-y and has a deep whiff of band aid and barnyard.

Bois Sikar by Atelier des Ors decant

The base is very traditionally masculine woods, dark and mysterious. It stays interesting and a little raunchy right to fade. Having said traditionally masculine, I know you are mostly for sex free scenting, me too, but giving you the traditional names means you have a place to start in your head while reading. So, obviously, if you like the sound of Bois Sikar then it doesn’t matter where you lie on the scale, try it. You never know.

Were/are you a Bois Sikar devotee?
Portia xx

I bought my decant from Surrender To Chance.